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Djkirkendall

PrEnder 3 - Prusa MK3S Direct Drive Extruder to Fit Creality Printers (Ender 3, CR-10, CR10, Tevo, ANET, etc) with ABL and BLTouch Mounts

by Djkirkendall May 19, 2019
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Any chance you could make the abl sensor mount fit a 12mm probe for th3ds ezabl mini? Also isnt the adaptor plate being so thick going to make it so that the extruder cant print on the entire bed in the Y axis being that it moves the hotend forward like 10mms.

there's actually another 30mm of unused play for the bed. I find I had to offset & in firmware by 30mm to get it to center on the platform.

I'll whip up a mount this weekend.

Ok I can give that a try. I am going to put this on my cr10 with th3d's new ezboard woth the tmc drivers and 32bit CPU setup so it would be pretty damn close to a mk3s at that point if I dont lose that bed space.

In testing I've found the print quality matches the Prusa MK3S with the stock board and drivers.

Wanted the features of the 32bit and tmc2208 drivers that the board brings to the table so It should be on par as my MK2.5s.

Any Chance of directions for installation? even Generalized would be great!

I don’t think I’m going to have time this weekend. For the most part, you follow the Prusa extruder assembly instructions off of their site. The only variances are that I use 40mm screws to attached the front cover to the lower mount. For my rev L mount, you have to insert (4) 3m nuts into the back before you attach it to the Ender x carriage, and 3 10mm cap screws secure it.

Awesome, that was the main thing I was wondering about!

I'm sorry I am still not getting something. I can't seem to figure out where the zip ties are supposed to wrap around. I am under the assumption they are for tightening the printed parts down on the Creality X Bracket. Or are they simply for wire routing? That said what secures the printed piece to the X Bracket?

Thanks again!

The 3 zip tie channels on the back of the adapter mount are to secure the wires from the noctua and stepper, and then route them up to the top to the top anchor point. The channels loop internally, so insert a zip tie in the in the bottom and push it through until it comes out of the top. Look for 6 holes on the back of the mount, on the angled face at the bottom.

Don't use the internal channel for the filament sensor cable, route it directly to the anchor point on the top. There is an EMI issue that surfaces if you route it internally. What remains is mitigated with a EMI filter, see notes in my log.

There are 3 x M3 10mm screws that secure the bracket to the x carriage, and they line up with the original holes in the carriage. Make sure to sink & secure 4 x M3 .5 nuts into the back before you put it on the carriage. I wicked in a drop of CA on these to make double sure they don't unseat after installation. This makes it so that you can service the hotend without disassembly of the entire unit.

One other lesson learned I need to add to the log is that the bundle of wires needs to be wrapped with electrical tape or the like to protect it from abrasion against the top anchor point.

Ok here's my X-carriage and my picture of where I could do 2 screws into the mount. (and yes I know that the plate is mounted to the carriage lopsided) where is the third screw point?

Thanks! Maybe we can dress this stuff up to start a manual :)

edit: I just noticed the updated stl for this part

Yeah, I updated to Rev L before I promoted it from "work in progress". I don't know if the 3rd hole is absolutely necessary, but it seemed like a really good idea to make use of it considering it added considerable rigidity for a very low commit charge.

ATTENTION: There is an EMI issue between the filament sensor and the Extruder motor. I'm going to try and fix it this coming weekend, but when the extruder is running it floods the sensor with noise (thousands of false alerts).

UPDATE 5/24/19: EMI issue has been resolved by changing the routing of the sensor cable (direct vice through the body) and adding a 13mm diameter ferrite core to the sensor cable. Note: the cable needs to be wrapped at least twice around the core before clamping it together.

How about weight? X axis don't cause problems? I'm thinking about installing the first one dual Z and then yours mod. Cool design.

In the end, I went dual Z and metal V-rollers. I put the original extruder motor back on as the smaller 42-34 was getting to hot it was melting the filament. See log for details.

I got the weight down by using a 42-34 Creality stepper. It's heavier than the stock hotend, but with -50 to XAccel and -5 to XJerk in firmware that seems to keep everything under control rather nicely.

I currently have the runout sensor setup with endstop switches for my Ender3 but I don't like it compared to my MK3s. Do you need anything special in Marlin firmware? Does the 3-wire plug plug into the same pins? Thanks!

Watch out for EMI between the stepper and the prusa sensor. I solved it by routing direct to the harness and adding a 13mm clamp-on ferrite core. I added a link to the BOM.

Nope, just match up 5VDC, GND, and logic pins. You may have to invert the logic in the firmware as this is a normally open switch.

Is there aby way to fit ABL sensor? I know that Prusa uses pinda which very small. I have an 18mm one. Do you think a mount for it would fit as well?

Done, see file "MK3S Extruder Body Rev B - ABL Sensor.stl". This is untested, but it looks like it will work out. If you commit, please let me know how it goes.

Comments deleted.

Have you printed with this yet? Seems very simple and a cheap upgrade. Just need a v6 hotend.

I don't know if I'd call it "cheap" unless you are willing to go with clones for the Bondtech gears and prusa filament sensor. It's certainly cheaper than the bolt-on DD system Bondtech is pushing right now. This is what led me down this path.... $260 for that DD extruder. Even using legit parts I can come in far under that price point leveraging the MK3S design.

Well using the gears you even linked it would all come in under $50 with the sensor. Unless the gears you linked aren’t very good.

Depending on the printer (CR-10 vs Ender 3) there are some other costs as well. Noctua fan ($14), 12VDC Buck ($10), Extension Cable for Extruder ($10). The prime cost driver is the E3D, with the cheapest legit I could find at $62.99. I think realistically, using cloned gears and legit E3D, one can walk away with the total cost around $120 (which is less than half of the DD Bondtech).

You sir are a good man. I thought I was the only one with the weird combination of a Prusa and an Ender 3.

Any test videos using this?

Not yet, but I probably will here soon.

Cant wait for a vid and to hear if it works as reliable as what comes with a prusa.

Video of first test is up!