You have some leftovers on your spools? Any degraded plastic not suitable for printing something decent? Put it to the trash-bin LITERALLY!
This thingy is also for you if you need a sturdy little bin which will take care of you trash which you sure have after cutting all those brims off your prints!
This boy can be mounted on a wall or desk with 3 screws or a double-sided sticky tape. You can also design new mount for it, just any (even GoPro-style mount if you need an action trash-bin for whatever reason).
The lid is loaded with 2 of those tiny springs they sell on Aliexpress/Ebay/whatever as belt tensioners. By the way, those guys are terrible at tensioning belts and make things worse (you should always use rigid mechanical tensioners on your printers), so their place is in a trash-bin, and now you can put'em there LITERALLY! Hooray! Spring-loaded lid allows you to stuff this bin with trash far beyond the capacity of the conventional bin of the same size (we all know how you "love" taking out the trash).
To assemble the bin you'll need:
1) Printed parts (they are really required, trust me)
2) 2 torsion springs which are usually sold as belt tensioners
3) 2 pcs. M3x40 DIN7991 90° Countersink Hex Drive Flat Head Screws
P.S. Those steps you see on the photos are some layer shifts due to me tinkering with driver currents, the design has no such features. I won't reprint mine, it's a trash-bin, c'mon, but you welcome to post your flawless makes (just kidding, post any make, even plastic spaghetti).
Something cheap Something sturdy
All parts are designed for support-less printing. I've printed the lid with some really wet PETG leftovers which were not worthy of drying, mount and bin with HIPS which is the cheapest filament I had. Print lid with top face on a build plate, mount with the face oriented to the wall on a built plate and bin with a bottom on a built plate obviously. Concerning the infill, make sure that the hinge parts of the lid and bin are 100% filled. For the rest the shell (top/bottom and walls) thickness is more important, 1.5 mm should do the job. Also 0.5 extrusion width works better, but you can increase it further to improve sturdiness (just in case you didn't know, you can do it with default 0.4 nozzle with no problems).