NOTE THIS FILE IS GOING TO BE GETTING UPDATED MULTIPLE TIMES FOR THE NEXT FEW DAYS. I PLAN ON FINISH THIS BY 5/20/19 SO IF YOU DOWNLOAD THIS FILE NOW, PLEASE HOLD OF ON PRINTING ANYTHING AND CHECK BACK OFTEN. I WILL KEEP POSTING PICTURES OF WHAT I PRINT AND LET YOU KNOW IF IT IS OK TO PRINT SO THAT YOU DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME AND FILAMENT.
-- IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PRINT THE ORIGINALS, THEY ARE PERFECTLY FINE AND WORK AS DESCRIBED
UPDATE - 5/18 - 2am- i changed the LCD base bc i realized i eliminated the supports to attach it to the frame, lol... i also added the Ender logo and the Ender Dragon to be printed out and attached to the LCD display. take a look at the picture and you will see the way my mind is thinking.
UPDATE - 5/18 - 9am - So the base for the LCD display is printed and pictures are up. i am using a 10mm fan to show the fit, a 20mm fan can be seen on my temporary base printed in white Marble PLA.
UPDATE - 5/18 - 10:30am - OK the logos are printable with or without a raft, I suggest printing them on a raft if you see that the whiskers or the tips of the dragon arent sticking properly... In CURA you need to select "PRINT THIN WALLS" or else the whiskers will not print with a .4 nozzle. there are 2 pictures with rafts, the first is without ironing. the 2nd is with ironing and i highly highly recommended you do that as it will get the Dragons face super smooth and it looks amazing. pictures posted doesn't do it justice
- Also i had gotten a comment about the airflow so i did this test for you guy by turning my cooling fan off and letting the Pi warm up, then turning the fan on to let it cool down. i saw about a 10-12 degree drop in temperature with this design. NOW it could be better but my Pi is running at 41C which is awesome and perfect for me. pictures of the results are posted
UPDATE - 5/18 - 11pm - Don't print out MY VERSION, the fan does not fit and its a mess... i have pictures of how i am doing it for now but also to give you an idea of how it will look with the 2 colors and the logo...I am going to redesign it completely and post the new files and pictures by tomorrow night. THE ORIGINAL VERSION IS PRINTABLE AND WORKS FINE.
UPDATE - 5/19 - 3pm - Ok i have taken down the bad file for the LCD case that had the bad fan location and replaced it with a working one that i just printed. I have also added another one that closes off the side holes and relocated the fan to the rear to allow for better cooling. I added a stylus pen holder that can be printed out and attacked anywhere if you do not want to drop the pen in the hole in the LCD display lid.
One issue i faced with 3 different prints on the lid is that i keep breaking the tab that holds them together. it works fine but it is something i have experienced even after changing infill and perimeters on 3 different lids. just wanted to let everyone know if it happens to them it happened to me multiple times, lol.
- UPDATE - 5/24 - 9am - i am currently having TONS of trouble getting my board to compile and work with my 5160 drivers. Hopefully i can resolve this issue today or tomorrow and then be able to get back to finishing this design up... thank you all who have downloaded this file and are waiting for this to finish or have installed the original one. i will try my best to finish it this Holiday weekend if possible
Hey Whats going on everyone, so i really liked the original design but i felt that it was missing a few things, and also had a few extra things i didn't really care for. All original files are included in the remix for download... if you want to download MY REMIX just download the ones that are labeled ENDER 3 PRO. those are the ones i made the changes that are listed below. All text in between these lines marked with X's are from the original design.
Sidebox for MKS Gen V1.4 + Raspberry Pi with 5" display for usage together or each single, attachable to the Ender 3.
Housing for Pi is foldable and has a slot for the Pi-camera-cable at the right place for Mounting the cam at the x-axis. It has room for a 4 Channel Relay Bord and two Step-down-modules.
BOM of all parts in ods.
Both Boxes have 4mm room to ground. This is for sticking some rubber feet under it.
Some like these:
THIS IS UPDATED BY ME ON 5/17/2019
I went ahead and modified the LCD display to fit a 40MM fan instead of the one that was originally used which looks to be a 20, or 30mm fan. I use a Noctua 40mm x 40mm x 20mm and it fits perfectly fine, so a 10mm fan would work also. There are 2 versions of my design, one keeping the fan located in the same spot on the side bext to the heat bed. the other had those ares blocked off and the fan located in the rear. this is best for those that DO NOT WANT TO ATTACH THE MAIN BOARD to the LCD box. the fan is going to be partially blocked off by the box so if you are printing the whole design then make sure to use the SIDE FAN option for the LCD display.
Another thing i did for the display was just add a hole on the top to be able to drop in my display's pen. I have also added a pen holder that can be printed out and attached anywhere. The original design uses a different mount for the screen which comes with 4 mounts built in while mine came with nothing, so i made up some simple brackets that you can slide over the screen and screws and back light button while still being able to use the original holes in the design to secure the screen... LOOK AT ALL PICTURES FOR BETTER DESCRIPTIONS.
For the original designs bracket i figured i would try and add a fan mount for the ultimate in cooling of the raspberry Pi.
3-D Solutech, Stronghero 3-D PLA
Black & Gold
3-D Solutech = Black.... Stronghero 3D = Gold
Once you have the LCD lid printed it’s time to install everything. The screen and raspberry pi should be inserted with the usb section first. The design is tight so play around with it but it will fit in the holes. The brackets I have designed will fit directly over the screw as shown and can be used to mount the screen to the lid
So because I didn’t see this until i was ready to install it you will need to cut the other bracket into 2 pieces to be able to fit next to the USB. Just use the supplied cutters that cane with the printer.
So because I didn’t see this you will need to cut the other bracket into 2 pieces to be able to fit next to the USB. Just use the supplied cutters that cane with the printer.
Insert the XT 60 plug in if you want to. I am using it as an insulator for the wires to keep them from rubbing on the frame.
If you have the rubber feet I have described in the post then this is when you attach them to the base of the display
At this time install your T-nuts to slide it onto the frame and keep everything secure
Line up all 3 slots to match the printers frame and tighten. Do this with the LID OFF as you will have more room to work with.
At this point your base should be on. It might be alittle loose but that’s just the design from the original creator. At this time you can attach the Ender logo and the dragon if you want. You can also attach the pen holder in the files or simply use the hole on top of the printer to store your pen
You can now run your Raspberry pi power cord in and the power cord for the fan that you are using. If you decide to use a buck convert or it can be mounted inside the case.