This is a complete fully 3d printable 1/10 Old Pickup Body (OPB) for your RC Car, specially designed for 3d printing. As you can see in the photos, we have "finished" it in two styles. We call them the Mad Max Version (MMV) and the Gas Monk Version (GMV). You can mount this body over MyRCCar MTC chassis to build a Monster / Crawler or over a MyRCCar OBTS On-road chassis to build your drifting or "racing" RC car.
You probably will be able to mount it in your sourced RC car of an aprox. 290mm wheelbase if you can design your own supports/holders.
The main body is formed of 3 parts, as in my previous Tesla and Typical Pickup bodies. This time these 3 parts are the front, the cab and the bed. We have made a big effort in terms of design to avoid as much as possible the use of supports but same time hiding the junction of parts and make it as solid but lightweight as possible. If you plan to build the MMV you can choose the right bed and front parts with the extra holes for the MMV details.
At last! Co-working :)
If you notice I'm talking in plural and an improvement in the quality of this model it is because for this new publication and the ones coming I have teamed up with my cousin, Rockser3D, an experienced 3D modeler with quite more artistic taste than me but a very bad person :P We want to give it a try to sell high quality 3d printable models so this publication is our way to show you the new quality level.
YOU WILL NOT FIND IN THIS PUBLICATION ALL THE NECESSARY FILES to build a complete model as the ones in the photos. Initially, the only way to get the rest of the files to complete the model will be meet a series of requirements, which will include uploading a make of the parts shared here.
There is a very big difference between this 3d printable body and the previous ones I made. The source model is designed by my cousin from scratch instead of being taken from the free internet, so every line and shape in the model has been drawn by him or me. There is a clear and obvious inspiration in a particular old pickup, do you know which one?¿?
But more than that, his mastery in 3d modeling in combination with the knowledge about rules for 3d printing allows him to do some sculptural parts which I hope you appreciate. In combination with my more "mathematical" chassis, we think it can provide a nice RC car experience for those who want to do something more practical and complex with their 3d printers.
We have taken some extra time to separate the design into more parts so you can print them in different colors and materials. That can allow you to avoid painting your car. To acomplish correctly this design you should use at least one main PLA color, maybe a second PLA color and/or some metal finish PLA color for "chromed" parts, but also TPU for rearviews, protections and holders and Transparent color for the front light lens and windows.
What is included?
Our intention is to know about you. If the provided parts let you print the main body, that could be more than enough for some people and they would never say a word. If we provide the bed, I'm quite sure some other people could be interested in just the bed for their remixes or RC mods and would never say a word... Hey but... what about just the front? It matches the cab and for me is the part that better shows the quality of the design...
So let's do it different this time... Instead of publishing the big parts and giving later access to the rest of the parts, we publish all the parts of the front and you will be able to get the rest of the parts when you meet the requirements.
The parts included in this publication are:
And these are the ones you will have access to when you meet the requirements:
To have access to the body holders, bumpers and bumper holders for MTC or OBTS chassis you will have to upload a make of your MyRCCar Chassis and update the photos of your OPB make showing the new parts. This way you will have access to these parts:
- Join the MyRCCar Group and introduce yourself in the right place, Salutations sub-forum or in reply to my own introduction. (This req. is optional)
- "Like" the publication if you do. Then collect it so you can find it more easily in the future.
- Upload a make of the front part of the car with more than two photos showing all the parts shared in this publication. Please, try to follow as much as you can the material selection I suggested above and use at least 2 different materials. Remember that the behavour of TPU plastic is necessary to give the elasticity to the holders and bumpers parts, but also to give rearviews and protection bars more chances to survive roll-overs and hits. Please use the description of your make to tell us a little about your experience printing it, your materials, your timings... Use your own language if you feel more confortable.
- Just the last one, write me a Private Message once you fulfill the previous requirements so I can give you access to the proper parts.
EXTRA REQS FOR BUMPERS AND HOLDERS:
- If you took this seriously and want to go on, then you will want at least the bumpers. Update your OPB make with new photos showing all the parts assembled. Also tell us in your make's description about your news when printing the rest of the parts.
- To get the holders for the body and bumpers you will need to upload your make of the MTC or OBTS chassis. Please try to upload various photos and tell us about the electronics and config you use or want to use with it.
First of all, you don't need to print all parts published, I mean you have to choose for some parts if you want the Mad Max Version, the Gas Monkey Version or maybe if you want to mount the body in a MTC chasis or in a OBTS chassis
As you can see I have printed 2 versions but the grey one is not exactly the version published, but a previous step of design. The separation of parts helps using different colors and materials, but it also helps when painting the different parts of different colors. Part of the grey body has been smoothed with epoxy and painted with cheap car paint. while the purple one use all unpainted 3d printed parts.
No one likes very long prints because the chances of fail are bigger. But for some parts I think is convenient to have enough strength in the main body. I would like to print the big parts in 0.1mm or maybe 0.08mm layer height but that more than doubles the times I get with 0.2mm layer height for the big parts.
The same happens with speed... I would like to print them slower to reduce ghosting and make them more accurate, but I print the big parts at 70/35/55 mm/s (main speed/outerperims/solidinfill)
So if you want similar results to mine's you should print big parts in 0.2mm layer height and generally 2 outer perimeters with 0.48mm thickness, about 15% infill, 70mm/s main speed, 35mm/s (50% main speed) for outer perimeters and about 80% main speed for solid infills. I printed them with 800-1200 accel for X Y and 180-240mm/s travel moves.
Each of the big three parts needs some little supports. The bed needs them in the sides of the wheel covers. The cab needs them around the rear window. Finally the front part needs them along the bottom limit of the front window. But THAT SHOULD BE ALL. The overhangs of the parts are calculated to be done by a cheap and stock Anet A8 so if you have a better machine you could expect better results without the need of more supports.
You will need at least a 200x200x200 printing volume specially for the bed part.
Just a reminder about inte-layer adhesion and first layer adhesion. Try to print some smaller/quicker parts first to calibrate really well your printer bed and temps before attempting the big ones. Use this same parts to check if you are having a good interlayer adhesion, which will be very important for the big parts. I increased my extruder temp about 5-10ºC respect my normal printing temps looking for this better inter-layer adhesion.
The rest of the parts, smaller ones, can be printed with smaller perimeter thickness, maybe 0.4mm or even the 0.25mm I used for the front emblem. They are a lot of prints, but if you have the time, maybe you can dedicate more time to this little ones with smaller layer heights, thinner perimeters, slower speeds and smaller accels.
If I can help you with any other printing tips please ask in the comments :)
You will need just a bunch of M3 screws, maybe M3x12mm and some M3x8mm or M3x16mm countersunk and shocket head. Pick up some longer ones like M3x30 countersunk if you plan to do the MMV in the monster or big crawler config.
The idea is connecting the three main parts first with screws, then screw the side platforms. The radiator must be glued.
The top of the bed can be inserted better before screwing the bed with the cab. You will probably want to glue it very good to the bed and the trunk to have a more stable body build.
Things like lights, rearviews, handles, windows, window covers, emblems or textures must be glued too. The Protections holders can be screwed from the inside of the body with some extra M3 countersunk screws. I printed them in TPU and the bars in PLA, but I think you could also do reverse. These Protections bars and holders must be glued to form the structure, and this structure screwed in the proper body holes.
If you plan to use the exhausts, you should also combine TPU and PLA. Think the best way for you to do it, maybe just the holder in TPU?¿?
Take your time to build it up. Use the best glue you can find for printed parts, but more important than all... have a lot of fun doing it :)