The thing is designed to set nuts and screws in areas that are hardly accessible.
By turning the wheel the movement is transferred to the rotation head to turn the nut or screw.
The thing is intended to just set the screw, but not to really tighten it. If the force becomes too high, the transfer rope starts slipping. This makes sure the thing will not be damaged by too much rotation force.
The different nuts can be used for M3 nuts and for 4 mm and 6.35 mm screw bits
The various joint parts can be used to build more complex tools with more joints.
Preparation of the parts:
Post process the parts and calibrate the holes using the listed drills.
Cut the three threads with the M3 tab for holding the handle cover .
Glue the two wheel sides toghether with cyan acrylate glue, so the wheel becomes complete.
Cut the arm sticks to the length you desire.
Glue the sticks into the joints. Make sure the joint configuration does work. Take care not to mangle left and right joints. Otherwise the rope does not move afterwards or you cannot route the rope through. The Joint configuration is up to the application. In the images you see an simple joint configuration using two joints, but you may use a different configuration.
Bill of Material
2 or more pieces wood or plastic round material or a metal tube 7 mm - length depending on your needs. The material length defines the length of the extension arms.
1 pull spring with an outer diameter of a little less than 5 mm as a tensioner for the rope.
1 metal pin 11 x 2 mm (I recommend a hollow clamping pin DIN1481 / ISO 8752)
2 metal Pins 12 x 3 DIN 7 / ISO2338 as an axis for the rope pulleys
3 Screws M3x12 DIN 84 / ISO 1207
M3 nuts as many as you want male joints
M3x10 DIN 84 / ISO 1207 screws -as many as you want male joints
High quality, soft and stable rope of diameter 0.5 with the property of little expansion. The rope must not splaying under load. Good ropes are those for radio scales.
Cyan acrylate glue to join the upper and lower wheel together.
Drill 7 mm to calibrate the holes for the arm sticks
Drill 3 mm to calibrate the wholes for the two rope pulleys
Drill 2.4 mm (as a core hole drill for M3 threads
Drill 1 mm to clean the rope channels
Thread tab M3
Some thin wire to route the rope through the parts.
Mounting of the Thing.
Mount the arms to the Handle
Insert the pulley pins into the handle and add the two pulleys.
Route through the rope so at the tip is a U-turn and two ends of the rope extending at the handle side.
Now wind the rope for 3 1/2 turns around the nut and place it inside the nut holder. make sure the rope is under tension and it runs on the pulleys.
Now insert the wheel into the handle with the hole facing opposite to the handle and wrap the rope into the notch of the wheel. Keep the rope still under tension and inside the pulleys.
Put the handle cap onto the handle and fix it with the screws.
Join the two ends of the rope with a node. Allow a little slack.
Put a rope with a u-turn into the whole in the wheel opposite to the handle, so the u-turn faces to the outer side of the wheel. Now put the noded rope into one eye of the spring and put the other eye of the spring into the u-turned rope that goes throug the hole. If you now carefully pull the rope from the inside of the wheel, the spring vanishes inside the hole, becomes tensioned and the transmission rope becomes tight. When the inner spring eye is positioned under the middle whole of the wheel put the 2 mm pin inside, so that it holds the spring tensioned. by pulling only on one end of the u-turned rope it will come out of the tensioning channel.
Now you should be ready to use the nut and screw setter.
Putting a 5 mm pin inside the tensioning hole, prevents to exceed the mechanical limit of the transmission rope.