Instructions for converting the Anycubic Predator to magnetic joints and Duet Board
If you want to change something, STEP-files for the parts and Gerber files for the PCB are included. I am looking forward to improvements or modifications, please link here!
The minimum requirements for the materials are:
(I printed all visible parts with CF-PETG)
Layerheight: 0.20 mm
Infill: Grid 17%
Support: only inside the 12x12mmMagnet10mmRodAdapter.stl
- Carriage.stl (3 x)
- ElasticPlug.stl (3 x)
- Frontplate.stl (2 x)
- RodJigBracket.stl (2x)
- 12x12mmMagnet10mmRodAdapter.stl (12 x)
- 10mmRodAdapterCap.stl (12 x)
- 12 mm steel balls (12 x)
- 12 x 12 mm magnet (12 x for the rods)
- 8 x 3 mm magnet(4 x for the rod jig)
- 10 x 20 mm magnet for the z-probe, the important dimension is the outer diameter of 10 mm
- 12 mm washer (not stainless steel) as counterpart for the z-probe magnet
- 10 mm carbon fiber tube 10 x 9.4 is perfect (6 x 400 mm, approx., depending on your rod length)
- 30x30x10 hotend fan
- M3 + M4 screws
- elastic 7 mm width (for the flying extruder, better dampening and less load on the Bowden couplers)
- cyanoacrylate glue (CA, Superglue) medium viscosity + activator
- silicon grease (for the ball joints)
- 500 mm aluminum profile (for the rod-jig, not necessary but helpful and reusable)
- 500 mm ruler
- Dremel with cutting disc (to cut the carbon fiber tubes)
- T-Nuts for the display mount and the rod jig (you can also print those)
- zip ties
- isopropyl alcohol
- E3D V6 hotend
- microswitch (for the z-probe)
Parts if you are also going to use the PCB for the central connector
- JST-XH 1 x 02 P2.50 (5 x)
- Molex Mini-Fit JR 2 x 05 P4.20
- Terminal Block 1 x 02 P3.50
- AWG22 wire
- crimping tool (with 2 different inserts for Molex and JST)
I ordered the PCB at JLCPCB in matt black (5 pieces, approx. 8 $ incl. shipping, simply upload the Gerber files).
Most of the assembly is straightforward, but here are some tips for the tricky parts:
Screw an M3-steel screw (not stainless steel) from the magnet side into the printed parts, insert the 8 mm magnets and measure from the magnets to the backside of the printed part. Use the screw to set the total depth to 20 mm (this makes measuring the rod length easier).
Mount the printed parts onto the aluminum profile (or something else).
The minimum length to reach the outer edge of the print bed with an angle of about 20° is 430 mm, measured from the mid of the first ball to the mid of the second ball. You can go longer but will lose print height.
Balls: 12 mm / 2 = 6 mm (x 2)
Overall Rod-Length = 430 mm + 2 x 6 mm = 442 mm
printed clamp parts: 2 x 20 mm = 40 mm
Jig width from the outer edges of the printed parts: 442 mm + 40 mm = 482 mm
Insert the magnets into the rod-adapters (12x12mmMagnet10mmRodAdapter.stl) and secure it with a drop of CA from behind (use one ball for two adapters to hold the magnet in place and get the right pairing of the magnetic fields). CA the adapter caps into it (10mmRodAdapterCap.stl) Let it dry!
Cut the carbon fiber tubes 1-2mm shorter than needed (from magnet to magnet), clean the ends with isopropyl alcohol.
Take the adapter with one 12mm ball, apply CA on the first 10mm of the tube, push the tube with rotating movements in the adapter and pull it out a bit again. Add more CA if it does not reach the end of the adapter. Do the same on the other side and insert it into the jig.
The magnets inside the jig are pulling the balls to the correct length. Let it dry for an hour, carefully pull it out of the rod jig an let it dry overnight! This way you get 6 rods of exactly the same length.
Effector and carriages:
Clean the balls with isopropyl alcohol. Spray activator on the balls and let them air off for a few seconds. Apply a drop of CA into the mount point and lightly press the ball into (try to apply the same amount of pressure on all balls to get the best accuracy). Apply the pressure for at least 20sec/ball. Let it dry overnight!
Insert the 10 mm magnet into the printed part (Z-Probe.stl) and use an M3-screw to adjust the height to the washer inside the effector. You will probably have to change the dimensions and the mounting holes for your microswitch.
Rod-Lenght: 430 mm (for the example above)
Delta-Radius: 215 mm (the first calibration will change this)
Printable-Radius: 185 mm
Height: 420 mm (safe value, first calibration will change this to something about 425, but you should measure it to be on the safe side)
You can use the stock JST connectors by cutting off the nose and turning the connector around. At the limit switches, you have to change the pins in the plug (use the Duet documentation).
The attached config.g is for the following setup:
Firmware 2.03beta3 (2019-03-25b6)
428 mm rods
0.9° stepper motor on XYZ with a 16 tooth pulley (change the steps/mm from 200 to 80 for 1.8° stepper motor with the stock 20 tooth pulley)
1.8° pancake stepper motor on E (change the current for E from 550 to 1000 mAh for the stock stepper motor)
E3D V6 Hotend with Semitec 104GT-2 Thermistor
Copy the macros "load filament" and "unload filament" to root macro section and make an additional directory for the calibration macros. This way you have direct access to the filament loading function on the PanelDue.
S3D Profile (predator.fff):
This is a modified profile, in contrast to the S3D default profile all material relevant parameters can be adjusted.
To set the pressure advance factor for each material separately, there is a script line in the post-processor for each material. There is also the control of the macros for filament change in multicolor printing. Simply rename the process at which the filament change is to take place to color2, color3 and so on.
To create more materials or color changes, copy and paste a line. Take a look at the created G-Code to see what happens!
In the file effector.stl was a bug, the new file is updated in the step.zip as well as the stl.zip
HAPPY PRINTING! :)