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55samba

Talon Claw V3 a short Caliburn

by 55samba May 2, 2019
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can the new lower mag be used in captain slug's version?

The takedown overlaps aren't identical

How is the build guide coming along?

What is the weight of all the printed parts

I believe slug says the Caliburn takes about half a roll of filament so a little less. But weight is also going to depend on how thick and infill.

If you really need the weights you can put the parts in your slicer and it will estimate the finished weight. But I have never done that. Cura is free and will do it, you can load more than one part in the slicer at a time.

I would not run a K14 in this. If a K14 will fit its not cause I planed it too.

Do I need to print any files from the original caliburn?

Only the RamBase or complete Ram (you have to shorten it though) ... and the decorative parts you want.
(If I remember correctly, it took me a while to print everything.)

Can it take a k14 or would I need to do some reinforcements

Is this takedown compadable

Yes, and the take-down files are here.

What is the overall weight of all the printed parts

Is the SpreaderCN from Slugs old file set used with the TC_V3_Mono_Mag & Talon_Claw_Dart_Jam_B_Updated?

Sorry, obviously everyone is now making the takedown. I forgot to load it. The original spreader is not compatible with talons.

Thanks for the updated spreader! I might be one of the few who still hasn't moved over to the takedowns haha.

For game play the mono is significantly more useful. For everything else the take-down is best. I like the mono also...

What covers are you using for the rear stock rods

Print 4 of the rear stock spacer 45mm...

What rail cosmetics are you using on the top blaster in the second picture?

If you ask Derrik he would know. I have not bought this kit from him, but he would know how to make it. This is the same size a V2 and he will know if you specify. Make sure you specify if you want two long rear threaded rods or not.

This looks great. I've just ordered 2 kg of PLA (light grey&mint) and am going to print this. Thanks for sharing!

But I have a few questions:

1) Do I need any original 3d-printed Caliburn parts? The ram base? The orange plate in the front? Anything else?

2) Do you suggest the takedown or the mono version? Or rather, are the files of the mono version correct? The ring in front of the plunger tube (that's the ryantube, right?) looks different than on your pic of the blue blaster and is shorter. Or the dartjam is too short. (See [7], too)

3) Why are there two top rails for the takedown version? (V2/V3)

4) The butt&spring options are little confusing, please help! The description about which butt plate to choose is obsolete, I think.

5) The silencer and the barrel shroud... are they your's?

6) I don't have the original Caliburn kit, but all the materials and tools to make those parts. Do you by change have a list with all the lengths for the rods/tubes/bar or do I need to look up what's in the kit, try to find out how long the parts are, and follow your cutting instructions?

7) An STL file of the assembled blaster would be very useful to measure distances and to understand assembly. (A STEP file even more so, of course.)

I will check if the files are correct a little later.

  1. I will have to go over this, yes you need a ram base, and the trenchp, I will load the one I use since it is a tighter fit. I think that is it.
  2. The takedown is much easier for spring and piston swaps. I find the mono much more useful in games since you can see if you have darts in the mag. But it makes swapping spring a pain, even more so if you you a stock. I will check the Ryan tube, but yes you use a standard Ryan tube behind the spreader if you use a mono magwell.
  3. The V3 is takedown and a tube cover that is just an option. If you want it to look like my photo it is the V2. The V3 has more space between it and the clear tube to allow a cover that is in the files.
  4. This is confusing since I do have a lot of possible ways to make this. Are you looking for all out max FPS or? Do you care if it is hard to prime? I like the large spring piston and the 8kg rear cover that allows a 788 spring and 160ish FPS as a nice ballance of fairly easy priming and good power. But you can use a K26 also with the other piston. Most of those parts are fairly easy and fast prints.
  5. The shroud and front barrel thing are mine. I will re-load them but probably with another post just to explain them.
  6. The drill jigs in the files are to cut down stock rails if you buy from Slug or Derrik.
  7. I will try to put something together on this. The Naptown nerf video for making one is really helpful. It was the V1 and the lengths removed are a little different but its the same principal and should explain it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Grk_J-ySg38

The Ryan tube I loaded is just one without the serrated ends. But you can download the one I have in the Caliburn outdated files also.

Wlaterw, the tube cover can be seen here. https://imgur.com/gallery/7rg0MKP

1-3) OK, thanks
4) Actually I want a weak, easy to prime blaster. I want to use it indoors, so it shouldn't hurt on short distances.
In the YT video he says that the V1 can work with a 5kg Retaliator spring. That might be the one for me?
5) Oh yes, please!
6-7) Thanks!

Tube Cover: The military-sand-coloured blaster has even another type of ryan tube, right?

  1. I just added the Talon Claw Rear Sling Mount. It is flat and works with the 5k OMW spring on Amazon and the large spring piston
    So for the back you need the Kiri 415, Butt to Kiri, and the rear sling mount, those 3 prints. You can one finger prime it and it will still shoot 120-140 depending on barrel and seals. Its what my friends 8yo uses. So do I, cause I play with kids.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011WTUMFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is the same tube cover in the photo I loaded, but it only fits the takedown. I dont really like it but since I made it someone else might?

Its what my friends 8yo uses. So do I, cause I play with kids.
<-- Perfect, That's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks!

whats the reason for the sm handle forgrip and the regular foregrip?

They were the same, I removed one. Thanks