MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Collapsing Pirate Sword (Print in Place)

by 3DPRINTINGWORLD Apr 30, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

And one more question, does it matter if the print quality is normal or fine? i know you havnt used cura in a while, but the setting for print quality is set up as extra fine, fine, normal, corse, etc. so does it really matter if the print quality is normal instead of fine?

Layer height is not too important because all the details are vertical. I did change to a lower layer height at the top of the dome, just so it would look a little better.

I also have a question about if you plan on making a longer flat blade sword. i just printed out your dagger design and i loved it. but i was curious if you plane on making any hand and a half swords. that would be a great addition to the series in my opinion

I just made a Jian! Its almost hand and a half. I have a video clip of it on my Instagram. It will be on my thingiverse after I finish the video.

So far everything on my ender 3 has worked great. i was just curious if i needed supports for the handle of the pirate sword

No supports needed. It gets a little tough at the top of the guard but if you have good cooling you should be fine.

Did you see the Katana?

At first try... The wall in the test print are always 0.95 /1mm with flowrate 100, 90, 80, 70... Uff

Weird... Hard to tell from the picture but do you have a partial clog? Looks like under extrusion or something? Maybe there is another setting you can adjust to get thinner walls depending on what slicer you are using.

Is under extrusion, but i see that the wall in the stl are 0.9mm, so its impossible to print at 0.85 without problem. Where im wrong?

I use cura. I tried with 0.8 nozzle, a disaster (fusing + retraction filament ewerywhere)...

Now, with no particular settings, is stronger but the lenght is 57cm. And its hard to put in the blades.

it keeps fusing together all
l lthe build

i have a ender 3 and i have tried to print the light sabers for a long time could you please help me

What the problem is?

I bet if you tried to make the spiderman foldable web shooter from avengers infinity war you could do it!

when you say coast do you mean coasting speed, volume, or minimum volume before costing?

In S3D coast is set as a distance.

would you happen to know how to do the coasting for cura?

Turn on expert settings and search for coast. it came up for me

Sorry, I have not used Cura in a long time.

I did the test print and the 3 cylinders came apart from each other. Is that a successful result, or are they supposed to extend and interlock like the full sword print?

Yes! I am just finishing up a video on this. Also verify that they are .85mm thick.

the infill for ender 3 about how much

I printed out the sword and I am having some trouble getting it to extend, did anyone else have this issue and if so were you able to get it to work?

I saw you released the new dagger! I love the handle, but I was wondering if there was any plans yet to release a flat blade version with a handle like this one?

I'm going to a pirate themed Ren faire in a few weeks and I'd love to bring one of these just for fun. Not a fan of the light saber round blade though. lol

Yes, its on the list! I'll probably work on it next when I get some free time.

LOVE this design!
Printed the Katana and it was amazing (small issue of the last, smallest, phalange sticking when collapsing)

Was super excited to print the Pirate Sword but it came out with the exact opposite issue.
The pieces come apart. (the printer setting were all exactly the same as the Katana)
The pieces come apart and come out of of the hilt and thus the "blade" isn't stiff enough to stay up straight.

Any advice.
Could this have happened because I printed the "extended" version?


That could be the issue, the extended version is designed to extend farther.

I ran the file and the three came out but they interlock is this a bad thing or good?

a cuanto relleno soléis hacerla

I printed one, It's just AWESOME ! Very good job, thanks.


hey can you make the hilt out of polymax and the blade out of flexible filametn??

IDK, but that might work? Give it a try and let me know!

I'm exited to print this, you should make Percy Jackson's sword/pen.

Good luck, and good idea!

Awesome toy. Printed perfectly. Only issue bottom where robot face is broked quite quickly when kid putting sable inside. Some reinforcement maybe needed there?

someday i will also make this

Someday? why not today?

managed to print a double color one, check it out :")

You were able to press in the blade after you printed it?

yes, took old (that i managed to break :") blade and inserted new one
petg, works better with water as lubricant

Hi. Could you please put a screw cap on the end so I can replace the extendable blade every time my children break it? Just like in the lightsaber. Thanks in advance.

This is a really cool idea actually. Good work! You should try printing the light saber with glow in the dark filament.


I have a 0.8mm nozzle I want to experiment printing this with. I see you're using .2mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle at two walls. Do you think this will print well with a single wall at .4mm layer height with .8mm nozzle? I'm thinking the single layer at the same thickness might make it more rugged.

It should work as long as your retraction is spot on. Why keep the same layer height? Wouldn't a thicker layer make it stronger?

Well, unfortunately there's an issue with layer height to width ratios. I guess anything with a width/height ration below 1.2 will have poor layer adhesion...At least that's what Simplify3D keeps telling me when I try.

Edit: Never mind...I just noticed my slicer didn't save the nozzle diameter change for some reason...Go figure...

Can someone share the print settings they used (eg layer height - wall count etc etc) as I am trying to print the test file with various settings but the bottom part (the one that's on the bed) is fused together.

Layer height and walls are not really that important with this print. It can only print two walls regardless because of the thickness of the blades, and all the walls are straight up so layer height is not that big of deal. To print one of these successfully you need to make sure your extrusion multiplier/flow rate is calibrated and that you don't have any blobs at layer seams. If its only fusing together at the bed then your bottom layer is too low and you must be getting some elephants foot. Hope this helps!

Scaled down to 60% for a faster / smaller print - i think the tubes are fused together - nothing is sliding out.
im sure my printer is plagued with my own setup issues as i tried about 7 times with massive under extrusion issues which are probably not helping the tubes stay separate.

any recommendations on speed - infil - minimum scale - tools used to separate the tubes - process for printing multi-part like the lightsaber?

At that scale its going to be a lot harder print because you are also scaling down the clearance. Plus its got to try to extrude two thin passes to make the segments. How small its scaleable and speed will depend on your printer. I would suggest printing it at full size first.

Thanks for the advice

Great design!!!
Please make a small dagger type one
something like 20 -30g ~
I would greatly enjoy it

I like that idea, I'll put it on my to do list!

XYZware also reports holes and mesh errors

You owe me $12.
Your model is a thought experiment at best.
A practical failure.

There is nothing wrong with my printer and settings. Even at 95% flow, no infill and 2 pass walls, your model printed fused. Your tollerances and angle of inserts are simply too acute. It should be 1/2 as long and twice as steep.

Your printer is either rocking a smaller than .4mm nozzle or you are not displaying a true bed to extend print.

You owe me $12 for having to read this terrible comment.

I've printed numerous of these on a Flashforge Finder slightly scaled down and have really had no issues. Grow up.

I would suggest you print the first one or two layers of any print where there are obviously very tight tolerances to see what you can or can't do before you just hit start and walk away from a 15 hour print. Your comments are childish and detract from the community.

Disappointing comment: unhelpful, adds nothing, a practical failure.

Thanks 3DPRINTINGWORLD for taking a risk and putting your stuff out there. Sorry about comments like this.

Pretty sure he owes you nothing.... just sayin

I'm pretty certain most other people are going well with this including myself.

Has anyone tried to scale this down and print? I want to make smaller ones for in-office duals.

i dont have any problems with the sword fusing mine just keeps breaking.. im not being rough with it and idk whats wrong do i need to turn up infill or what kind of setting in cura would help?

Comments deleted.

hey my sword works fine UNTIL... the bottom of the sword pops off when i push it back into the case... to i need to like bump up infill or what do i need to do??

The pummel breaks when you push the blade in the hilt?

If that’s the part with the little robot on it then yes.

Oh yes, the Mulbot. I'm surprised it would break there. More infill should help, maybe more top layers too.

These are great. Thanks

i don't know if my cure breaks, but it says it will print in 1 day and 10 hours ... is this normal?

Mine took 12 hours to print at 0.2mm resolution and 8% infill. Octoprint estimated it at 10 hours. 1 day and 10 hours does seem excessive.

12 hours seems legit.


I also setting at 0.2, infil maybe is at 15% and speed is 30mm/s

Mine was around 12 hrs at .2mm, 60mm/s

I have four printers each cranking out one. Looking awesome so far. Thank you so much for the awesome work!
Here's a suggestion for an alternate design: make a 4 extrusion thick version with slightly more overlap. It would definitely make it shorter, but it would be more rugged and maybe even tough enough for children to sword fight with. Just a suggestion...LOVE LOVE LOVE these as is. Has to be my favorite thingiverse download to date!

I'm glad that you like them! I hope they all turnout for you, mine have held up to my children's abuse so far. I will make note of your comment I've just been receiving lots of requests recently so my to do list is getting so long...

in cura 4.0 where are the coast and wipe settings??
and on the ender 3 what coast and wipe would be best

tried the katana and it didint work but i have not tried coast and wipe.

Sorry I dont use Cura but this has been answered in a comment on one of my other swords/light sabers. Look through those comments and I'm sure you will find the answer and even a profile to review.

Thanks for doing this, it's great! Was wondering if you could make the inside part a separate stl? I managed to break two sword now and have awesome hilts with no blade!

Holly cow, you must have been having some epic sword fights! I have not broke one of these yet, do you think you can insert the blade in the hilt? I can do it but you probably only need the segment that you broke? Some slicers let you separate stl's like s3d, or you can use meshmixer.

I wonder if it would work if I made the largest segment with a split that would flex and allow you to inert the blade. If you are interested in giving this a try I can post this?

Cool thanks man! I fixed one by making it fit and glueing it in with ABS slurry =D

Will look at separating when I get a chance! Cheers!

Hey man, could you make this into a staff?

Yep, its on my to do list!

I've tried to print this a few time with no luck, i started with the test piece first. The pieces always sticks together where the printer head is turning around on the circles. I've tried to up the coast to.15mm, and the wipe to 3mm. Do you think i should keep going higher on both of them? I have a Flash Forge Creator Pro and am using Simplify3D.

Thanks for any help!

Yes, I would think it would be a lot higher on a FFCP, those settings are pretty conservative. I have a FFCP and it requires a lot more retraction then my MK3. I just have not tried the swords on it yet with coast and wipe. I would double them and try it again. Keep increasing it until the seams are gone. If you start getting voids then you went to far.

Great thanks for the quick response! I found an older FFCP Process profile and tried it. It worked with the blade! I have the blade now and am printing the Lightsaber body. Thanks again!

Wow, you are awesome! thanks!

I can't slice this with Simplify 3D, it crashes every time I try to slice :(

I use S3D too. Maybe its one of the setting causing it to crash?

After playing with the test print to tweak my retract settings, I've printed several of these flawlessly. They come off the printer sliding apart with no effort. Great design, my 4 year old loves them! It's a pretty incredible toy.

Thanks for your efforts.

That is great! Thanks for the feedback. My kids love them too.

I can't wait to print this! The only mod I would suggest is a trigger mechanism to keep the blade in until the trigger is pressed.
If the working files are included I'll give it a shot.

Do you think it would be possible to set up a small UV light in the middle if I were to print the blade part in glow in the dark filament?

I heard this idea from several people but I don't have any experience with UV reactive filament. I'm sure the cap could be modified to hold a led.

Comments deleted.

think you could somthing like a katana

Yes! I actually already printed one but I wasn't happy with the way it turned out. I hope to have a updated version done soon.

if you have the file could you send it. id like to see it if its ok

mi kids will love this... thanks for sharing...

love this... cant wait to print one for my son... could you make your original broadsword like the light saber... I mean... make it so you can print the blade and handles different colors? Would love if that could be done to each of these amazing designs.

Sure, I'll put it on my to do list!

I already did one, but adult sized at the moment (mostly because of the large hilt).
Will post the remake today, and I'll scale down both pirate and broadsword to child size this week.

Edit: Remix have been uploaded.

Collapsing Broadsword (Removable Blade)

I'd love to see a more diamond shaped blade as well! Kinda like this. → <>

I make a katana with a diamond blade but I dont like the look of it. The handle needs to be pretty big... I haven't given up on it just give me a few days to redefine it.

I would love to see a thin bladed rapier version.

That would be a pretty cool idea!

Sooooo Cool !
Well done Sir....well done.

I have one more coming yet, maybe two if I can get it figured out.

I just printed this...I'll be posting a make soon! Awesome model!

Sweet! Can't wait to see it!