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GT2560 V3.0 resources - Geeetech A10 A10M

by MegaSaturnv Apr 29, 2019
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Hi! i have a stupid question but i don´t know so much... if you pres the reset button in the GT2560 in a A10 it is like a hard reset?
sorry my english...

It's a soft reset - as if you were to turn off the printer power and then turn it on again (I'm disregarding the power-loss feature here). Marlin settings are not lost. The reset button on the GT2560 does the same thing as the reset button on the LCD board.

It's not a stupid question and your English is fine!

Here is a diagram of the capacitance and BL touch connectors on extruder PCB. there are SMD resistors on the back of PCB.

Thanks! When I get some free time I'll see if I can draw out the schematic for the extruder PCB in KiCad.

Hi, I have done a lot of root cause about why the board got fried...
have a look at my https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3493616 or directly at my hotend maintenance guide https://github.com/caesar1111/Geeetech-A10M-HotEnd-Maintenance/blob/master/A10M_HotEnd_Maintenance.md

....and a few details to the root cause:
Due to poor quality the insulation of the heater cartridge is shifting revealing some bare metal wire which might connect to the metal parts of the hotend. If now the glass pearl of the thermistor breaks or you tighten the thermistor hotend schrew to much you might also connect the thermistor wire through the metal parts of the hoten. This sends 24V to the T0 pin of the board directly connected to ATMEGA2560.
And this fries the temp reading of the board.
I already connected geeetech and told them about the problems. As soon as I have news I will post it.
If you by incident suffer the same problem, just contact geeetech support, and the will send you a replacement board.

Geeetech A10M - getting started - A10M landing page

Hi, have you heard about issues with the thermistors? I now fried the second board. This just happened when the extruder thermistor broke. No both boards do not show the correct thermistor values but only a fixed value.
Any clue which part on the pcb can be the faulty one so I can replace only the part and not have to buy a new board again for 50$

Well that original response is still flagged. It basically amounted to:

  • I haven't heard about issues with thermistors, but I haven't really been looking either. Could be worth checking Geeetech's forums.
  • If it's the hotend thermistor (and not the heated bed thermistor), test if it's around 100k on the female JST-XH connector using the attached image as a guide.
  • Check continuity between the hotend thermistor and the control board.
  • If the board isn't completely bricked (from what you're saying it sounds like both still boot), try flashing the board with Geeetech's latest A10M bin file (Marlin 1.1.8), as I can confirm it has thermistor short detection, missing thermistor detection and thermal runaway enabled.

I currently have a working A10M & GT2560 so any tests you want me to do / further questions please ask. Could be worth contacting Geeetech about this. If all else fails try another board like RAMPS or the MKS GEN L.

Oh and thanks for all the work you've done regarding the A10M and the landing page, it helped me get set up and it's a great resource. Edit: Just discovered your A10M hotend Maintenance page on github. It's just so detailed with the photos and this will really help if I need to clean the hotend and replace the nozzle. Thank you so much once again.

Hi Megasaturnv,

thanks for the fast reply. So basically all the things you mentioned are already tested. I even connected a brand new 100k thermistor with jumper wires to the board and still the same problem..... Geeetech sent me a replacement board and just replacing the board solved the issue. The printer was running fine until the thermisor readings started to jump up and down. and suddenly the board was fried again. Taking out the thermistor it again was just broken into two peaces.... and that killed the board. Normally it should go to -14degree celisus when no thermistor is attached but somehow the the board just shows a fix reading on the thermistors. the first board was just fried for the hotend thermistor. Now the second board fried both thermistors... the hotend shows 74 degree and the bed shows -14 peranently....
I also started a forum thread in the geeetech forum to see if someone else is having the same issues.
I will also contact the geeetech support hotline about this issue, so more experiences of other customers can help them to find a solution.

I just added your thing to my landing page, so everyone can find it.
And make sure you join the discord server of vertabreaker since this is the most active place for Geeetech A10 A10M and others https://discord.gg/q7qxza

So I will keep you posted, as soon as I have more news.

That's a very strange issue. Perhaps the thermistor traces run close to mosfets E0, E1 and E2. I've always wondered if E0 gets enough cooling when it's on. Maybe without enough cooling it's damaged both circuit boards in some way, so perhaps the main board fan isn't good enough. About two weeks after getting my A10M, I had to replace the main board fan because it was noisy at times (bad bearing) and didn't provide much airflow. I got a partial refund for this. Currently I've bodged together a 40mm 5v fan to provide cooling but this will change once I finish creating a new control board case.

If this is the case you could try attaching a new thermistor(s) to one of the other two hotend thermistor pins (see attached image) or connecting it to the A0-A7 pins next to the atmega2560. You'll have to modify and re-flash Marlin of course.

Thanks for the Discord info. I'll also see if I can a temperature reading on E0 as I'm curious myself... I'll put heatsinks on there if heat is an issue.

I responded but the comment is flagged for moderation. Hopefully it comes back. If not I'll re-type my response in an hour or so. Hmm...

Comments deleted.

(Please note this comment was initially flagged for moderation)

I haven't heard about that issue. I'm guessing you're talking about the hotend thermistor, and not the heated bed thermistor? By the way, what temperature value is it stuck on?

Could be worth testing the resistance across the hotend NTC thermistor, mine is 126k at room temp (But anywhere about 100k is fine, since they're 100k thermistors). Best way to test the thermistor is to unplug it from the back of the hotend's circuit board and put a multimeter across the thermistor's female JST-XH connector. (See attached image. I'll probably add that image and a link to this 'thing' for reference).

If that thermistor tests fine then test continuity of the thermistor wires between the hotend and the mainboard. Regardless, I can verify that the Marlin 1.1.8 binary supplied from Geetech's website can detect a thermistor short, missing thermistor and it has thermal runaway enabled (tested them all myself). If the board aren't truly fried (i.e. they still boot ok), try upgrading Marlin if you're still running the stock 1.1.7.

I've still got a working A10M so any tests you want me to do just let me know. You might want to contact Geeetech about this and if all else fails try another board like RAMPS or the MKS GEN L.

Thanks, but it was already in the description :)

Hey there!

I have H4 (uart3) successfully populated and am using it as a 2nd serial port for an "ESP3D" WiFi-module.
Additionally I can confirm E1 and E2 working. Have also published a few thingies about the GT2560v3 :-)