This is the Volcano version of my dual 40mm part cooling fan thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594440
To those that don't know, volcano heat blocks screw right on to the standard CR-10 heat break. In my case, I was running a Micro Swiss all metal hot end, and was Volcano curious when I made the realization. So I have the super good performing Micro-Swiss all metal setup and their titanium heat break feeding into an E3D Volcano clone heat block. This setup works wicked sweet.
The logic behind my design is that big fans running slower move more air, more quietly, than small fans at full speed. For normal printing I run the fans at 50%. But if I want to print fast with a fat volcano nozzle, those I can throttle them up for big fat thick layers.
Amazon Basics PETG
I tried printing this in a few orientations and found that on it's back (how it loads into the slicer) prints best. There is significant support scarring on the back side, but- it's on the back side where it's not visible from the front of the machine.
You may consider using a brim. I had more than one model start to lift from the bed and fail the print.
I tried a lot of infill settings, and even did one at 0% infil and just used a lot of top layers to clean up sloppy bridging, but I would just print it with 15 - 20% infill if I run another one.
I used 2 perimeters with a 0.6mm nozzle, and 4-5 top/bottom layers.
It took about 90g of filament and about 6 - 6.5hrs to print.
Just remove support material and clean up rough surfaces. Take care around the slots for the hex nuts, to not break off the flange there. I clean all mounting holes up with a 1/8" (3.2mm) drill bit by hand.
I designed this in Soldiworks using the models from the Creality github files which can be found here:
CR-10 files - https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/CR-10
Ender 3 files - https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3
There are a few things that annoyed me about a lot of fan ducts on Thingiverse. One being using the hot end mounting screws to also retain the fan duct. On Creality printers, those screws are already a bit short and have little thread engagement with the bracket, and torquing down on plastic for part (the hot end) that needs to be fixed pretty rigid is a recipe for problems. Another being that a lot of fan ducts have very short and abrupt turns in the airflow path.
I ran through about 10 prototypes trying to prefect the design. I'm pretty happy with the current result but there's always room for improvement!
You will need-
3x 40mm fans. You could reuse your stock hot end cooling fan but it's really crappy and loud so I suggest you upgrade. The Sunon fan sold from TH3D and elsewhere is really nice. I have a Sunon fan for hot end cooling (upgraded that a long while ago), but went with Winsinn fans for part cooling since, well, I'm cheap (I bought four for the price on 1 Sunon). At 50% speed, they are still pretty quiet.
12x M3 x 14mm - 16mm long socket head cap screws. If you use a fan grill you will need different screws.
12x M3 hex nuts. You could use nylock nuts if you are feeling a like adding some suffering to your life.
1 M3 x 8mm button head cap screw (socket head would work too)
1 M3 x 20mm button head cap screw (socket head would also work there too)
I wired my part cooling fans in parallel with each other, though some people wire them in series. In series they'll spin slower, in parallel they'll run higher current through your control board. Mine hasn't fried yet (knock on wood), but the choice is yours.
Getting the back right nut on the left fan in it's slot can be difficult. It's easier with the fan duct not mounted to the x-carriage, you can tilt it until it falls into its slot. The 20mm screw needs to be inserted into its hole before the left fan is mounted. The little hole on the front of the left fan duct is to access that screw with your Allen wrench. Take care to not let the screw fall out of it's hole, or you will have to take the fan off to reinsert it again. It's annoying... I know, I'm sorry. I am considering making a version that accepts those brass, melt in place, thread inserts.