bullpup for 10 22 ruger with standard barrel. I used the receiver mount from the maxis ruger 1022 stock. I downloaded one of these a while back and it had a really great fit so instead of wasting time designing a new mount I used the maxis mount. this is only attached to the stock at the receiver allowing a floating barrel design. This measures exactly 26.5in so it is legal! This was designed to mount a standard sized quad rail on the end from an ar15 to balance the weight on the grip. Any store bought bullpup will require a 150 dollar bull barrel to balance the weight. You will need 2in,1.5in, and .5in long screws. I forget the exact size I used but the threads for the parts are modeled after #3 ansi unified screw threads. A small spring is used to .help the trigger reset.
For the trigger bar,charging handle,and picatinny rail mount I used 8mm x 6mm carbon fiber tube. The tube for the rail mount needs to be either beat or pressed in or epoxied in to ensure there will not be any movement or loss of zero. Mine has held zero so far with no issues. I did it this way to make room for the charging handle and place the optic in the correct location. Trigger feel and weight is excellent imo. It will require some minor sanding and light oiling to get it just right. I used abs. Use acetone to glue the parts together.
update:The file ruger trigger pup is the part with the grip mount that has threads included in the mount. If you want to acetone glue your grip on like I did mine use the original file for more material/strength in the mount.
update: added threaded plug for trigger rod
Use 3.8 to 4mm walls . If you do this 50% infill shoulld be sufficient because infill will be minimal. This entire piece will use almost an entire roll of filament. you might have to sand out a groove if your barrel still has the rear sight. I will remove this material in the design later on.
These pieces all have a female and male connections so the screws do not have to be super tight. Just tighten enough to close the piece up and then snug it where it will be secure. There are a couple of screw holes that could had used a little more material around them for support but if you assemble it like I have suggested you will not have any problems. The screws only have to keep the pieces from moving outward from each other. The male/female connections do the rest and keep the parts perfectly aligned. Also if using abs like I did an acetone vapor bath does a lot to strengthen the parts even more but this is not required. I believe pla would work fine as well as long as a strong gluing method is used like super glue and baking soda as an activator.
Also the threads in the end piece were placed there for screws to be inserted for extra support only. I havent used these at all on mine so they have not been necessary so far.