You get one of those nice new Mono-Crystal katanas, or have a bunch of other personal arms taking up space in your pad? are you tight for Eddies? Don't sweat! Print this modular sword hanger out for a pittance, and get organized!
Guaranteed to work with pretty much any sword, polearm, longarm, or a variety of weapons that are at least as long as your forearm.
It can be expanded by adding extra tiers, assembles easily, and is offered with either Keyhole or through-mount screw holes.
Leave it plain-jane, or add your favorite band, gang or corporate (yuck) logo, as well as other details!
Don't be a chump! Download and print one today!!!
Inland PLA and PLA+ PLA
For each sword, print two (2) identical "Katanakake_Side" parts:
"Keyhole" Means Keyhole screw mounting.
"Thru-Hole" Means a screw hole where it's screwed through from the front (you can also print 'optional' screw hole plugs), and requires a longer screwdriver.
the "Flat" suffix on the filename indicates a flat-top, which can be glued to the bottom / screwed underneath another complete hanger. this way you can hang multiple swords.
Print one (1) "Katanakake_Back" piece
"Katanakake_Back" prints in one go, but you will need a large enough bed.
"Katanakake_Back_Brim" has an extra thin layer at the ends to prevent lifting and help bed adhesion. Be sure to trim off the brim prior to assembly.
"Katanakake_Back_Left" and "Katanakake_Back_Right" are this piece in two halves for smaller printbeds, they are put together via dovetails.
There are two versions of the "Katanakake_Peg" file, you will need two (2), I personally use the "Katanakake_Peg_Thicker" version. It needs to be a snug fit, to keep the assembly tight, and should be tapped in from behind with a small hammer into their corresponding slots.
Artwork and logos can be added to the finished rack(s). Circuit left and Right files are two-color prints; Start with base color, pause at 1mm Z height, and switch to the 2nd color.
Many logos to choose from are included, they go on the center of the back panel. all two color logos print like the circuit trim: base color first, pause at 1mm Z height and swap in your 2nd color, resume print until done.
the 3-color logos are printed the same as the two color ones, only difference is that the print should be paused again at 2mm Z height, the third color swapped in, and printing resumed.
The file "Katanakake_Assembly" is for reference purposes, refer to it if you are confused as to how these pieces all fit together!
Special thanks to Suzaku for his awesome sword rack, which was used to create the hook profile on my version!
Assembly and finishing:
The back piece has tabs on either end that will be fitted into the corresponding slot on each end piece. a Peg should be hammered into the slot on each tab from the backside, tapered end first. if the standard peg isn't snug, use the thicker peg. if it's still not snug, you can try scaling the peg up a bit.
You can use glue if you wish, but assembly should be glue free.
Cut two strips of felt to line the "hooks" to prevent scratching. I use contact cement to adhere the felt strips to the rack.
the artwork, if you decide to use it, should line up perfectly on the back piece with possibly a slight amount of trimming or sanding of edges. use a little super glue (CA clue) to stick these optional bits down.
If using the through-hole version, you can optionally add the screw plugs into the holes once it's properly mounted to a wall. I chose to leave them off. Keyhole mounting should be straightforward, but is untested.
Please share any makes! And if you make one, please consider tipping me!