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SHENKOE

ENDER 3/ Ender 3 Pro/ Ender 3X TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE AND HOW TO REQUEST HELP

by SHENKOE Apr 19, 2019
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I just got an Ender 3 Pro; generally things are going well, and my doggie came out on the first try. I made a couple of designs for parts I need with Fusion 360 and sliced with Cura. I printed one with ABS. I set the extruder temp to 260 and bed to 75. Now going back to PLA those settings persist, although I enter the PLA settings (200 for extruder and 45 for bed) and "store settings". Are these setting determined by the printer, the Cura model file, or both. How do I get the default back to the PLA settings?

Sorry for not being attentive to this forum the last couple weeks. But your issue is slicer related, which I will do my best to help with.

So I would save the ABS profile, by creating a new profile under those settings, in the profile section. I'm not sure what you used for the dog, whether it was the supplied gcode that came on the SD card that was supplied with the printer, or if it was a default one within Cura.

I think you can upload the gcode file used to print the dog, if you still have it on your SD card, upload it into cura, and I believe you can save those setting as another profile. I have only hard of this being a way to do it and have not had a reason to test it out for myself.

Looks like a great resource! Thankyou, much appreciated

You're very welcome. Glad you like it so far

Hi so I am new to 3D printing and have an issue with my ender 3. I am printing and it seems to stop in the same spots every layer makes a thumping sound for a bit and then resumes. Here is a link to a video of the issue.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sm1oj6rz9fg9h4c/IMG_1924.MOV?dl=0

Any ideas? is this normal?
Any help appreciated!!!

First that is not normal . Do you have a feature in the cooling section of Cura set to wait for a specific period of time to pass ... I forget what is called an I never touch it.

Are you using stock Cura or creawesome Cura? If creasing, there are a lot of setting I do not agree with that are enabled. Check the max Z speed also, ensure it is set the 5.

Is this the first time it has happened, if so it could be a slicer, gcode or a model issue. If not the first time, it could be slicer settings. I'm leaning towards slicer settings either way.

Have you changed setting NH S from when it was previously working correctly.

I notice you have the extruder setup for direct drive. Which to me, say you are not that new to have taken that step.

Hi,
First of all thanks for responding so promptly - much appreciated. A bit of context. I got my Ender 3 two to three weeks ago. Couldn't get one straight print kept getting gaps in the layers etc. In frustration and thinking it might be an extrusion issue I bought the direct drive conversion kit which I installed only yesterday. However after a lot of backwards and forwards with the retailer I discovered that he issue seemed to arise only when printing things from Cura on Mac, ever heard of that being an issue? When using Cura on a Windows PC it worked fine even after I installed the Direct Drive. So yes I am a newbie just slightly obsessive and frustrated! Still not confident at all but after perseverance and patience managed to cover to direct drive too.

But with regards to this problem I checked the slicer settings- I have only used standard Cura (didn't;t know there were other versions) on a windows pc at the moment since eI gave up on Mac. With regards to the settings you mentioned I am attaching pics of the sections I think you were asking me about.
Does that look ok to you?
Will try a different file after this stops printing.. probably going to take ten hours at this pace!
Jean

Ok gotcha. Just a a decked out new, jk. Ok so have I heard of mac having issues, yes. Do I know how to fix that? No because I don't have access to a Mac. Innit prints well from PC use that. But if there is nothing stopping you from using the SD card, I would use that instead. For many reason, that I refuse to elaborate. A quick Google research will yield many answers as to why.

Thanks. I have been using a PC and saving to an SD Card printing from there and it was still giving me trouble. I tried a different STL file and it was doing the same issue... I tried again this file this time removing the supports from the settings on Cura and also removing the combing function and so far so good... not sure if it is my printer or the software that's an issue...

that sounds like a slicer settings issue. Are you using regular CURA or CREAWESOME? If regular CURA check the profiles on the files section and see if that helps. If you CREAWESOME try the one int this comment. I have to add it to the files soon or tomorrow.

*Adjust your speeds and temp setting to match your preferred settings. What we are looking for is not quality but to see if it pauses again.

Hello, I just recently got an Ender 3 on Amazon and I have been unable to get it to print properly. I am experienced with 3D printing but not with this printer. I have tried many settings and Cura presets and everything has come out about the same, with weird layer separation and overall very flimsy and crunchy prints. I have tried to get in touch with Creality but have had no reply, I'm not sure if this is a problem caused by my build plate not quite being level and was considering buying a glass one but wanted to make sure I was addressing the right problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I've attached photos of some of my test prints.

So what settings are you using, filament, temps speeds etc?

Have you tried the profiles on this guide, in the files section?

I see the issue, now I just need background on the print settings. New printer check. Firstly the bed leveling for the Ender is crap due to the weak springs and the shirty strain relief for the heated bed. If you are unwilling to mad the bed I suggest replacing the springs.

What seems to be your issue is temp and flowers of the filament.

Have you looked over the assembly links in this guide. Double check the Bowen tube and couplers, if you have different couplers replace the stock ones. Also check the hotend and endurance order tubing is feed completely through. Remove the nozzle and then feed the tube in until you can see it with the nozzle removed. Reattach the nozzle, and try another test print

Okay well here's the latest test, very similar to the very first one I did of the dog included on the SD card. So yeah I'm considering starting with replacement springs since my guess is still just the bad build plate, or trying to return the whole thing and look into other printers. Let me know if you have any other advice.

Just look closer at the photos again. There may not be enough tension on the extruder arm the allow the gear to grab it properly. Try adding a washer to the spring and see if that helps.

Wait, where'd my comment go?

Don't worry it happens when edit to many times in a short period. It will come back eventually. But I forgot something. Are you using the SD card that came with it? Try a different or better one and somewhat happens. Sometimes those cheap ones crap out immediately.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I've been looking more thoroughly through your guide as well and just did the x-axis calibration process. There are a lot of other steps in there, but some of them do require parts I don't have or printing out parts which I can't currently do since this is the only printer I have access to at the moment. I will keep working on it tomorrow and update here. Thank you already just for being really prompt with responses, that can be hard to find with something this specific. By the way, in the guide when it talks about calculating the e-flow, is that something that is set in the printer settings or the slicer?

Also what filament are you using, I usually ask all this stuff in the beginning. But Im answering this stuff on the fly sorry. Also send me a message, so I font flood the guide, and once fixed you cam post it as a reply to this here

Yes and no. the default steps per mm for the E3 are, x80 y80 z400 e93. You can do an extrusion test and see what the results yield. Once you dial it in setings you can input them in at the end of your slicers start gcode. Since the E3 sometimes can at times, but mostly cannot be accessed through a slicer terminal.

Example: M92 x80.43 y79.11 z401 e100.97

Of course you would input your actual values.

Ok, details, sorry I feel like I've spent forever trouble shooting this already and have gotten no help from Creality.
Filament: Hatchbox white PLA, 1.75mm
I have tried many different settings at this point, I have gone speed as low as 80%, Flow from 90% to 130%, Temps from 195 to 260.
I have leveled the bed many times and tried different things to adjust for what seems to be an un-level bed. I have taken out the Bowden tubing and couplers, I swapped the coupler on the extruder with the extra one that came with the printer because it had less play in the tubing, I don't have other couplers without purchasing them. I also discovered, as my research showed many people had issues with the tubing not being all the way to the nozzle, that Creality has aparently updated the coupler on the hot end so it has teeth and only lets the tubing go in (I had to trim out the part that got mangled by these teeth when I first tried to pull it out. I can confirm the tubing is all the way down as I can see it with the nozzle removed, which I also just torch cleaned and I'm trying another test print using the Shenkoe preset. I'll update when it's done or failed.

BTW I also have been getting a lot of PLA stuck to the build plate, probably just because it's bad but figured I'd mention that too. I think some of it was just when I was running it too hot. I have also tried to use a glue stick a few times when things weren't sticking to the build plate.

EDIT: I can already see it's coming out super under-extruded and stringy, I sure it will crunch when I squeeze it.

I just wanted to follow up here and say that thanks to this guide I was able to solve my problem. If anyone has a similar experience to me, make sure to test your Estep accuracy (how much movement the extruder needs to move a mm of filament out). The default 93steps/mm was giving me only 41mm of filament from the extruder when I told the printer to do 100mm. My new Estep value is 226 and I've gotten great results. Also if you want this setting change to stay there even after the printer is powered off you need to add it to the starting gcode in your slicer (I added "M92 E226.83; Set Esteps to new value" in the first few lines). I as so happy with this printer now, I really appreciate the support and troubleshooting provided here.
Thanks!

Woo wooo wooo. Good job my friend.

Just a note:
I have done the Ender 3 ROSC pin hack and it has practically eliminated ALL diagonal wave artifacting on curves due to the microstepping mode being enabled!!! You won't have to add TL smoothers!!! TL Smoothers are, In My Humble Opinion, a dirty trick and are actually not very good for the circuitry, since if you know anything about diodes, there is a voltage drop when a diode is used inline!!! Why starve your stepper of the necessary voltage supply if you don't have to?!

https://youtu.be/S75meJJm9Kw

If you have a Cell Phone Repair Shop with a binocular microscope and they can do microsoldering, you can get the board modded!!!

Additionally, I have added stepper motor dampers to all axes, including the extruder to eliminated the "singing" of a hard coupled connection between the steppers and frame. I had to add an adaptor bracket to the limit switch on the Y-Axis that shortens travel by 3 to 4mm and keeps the carriage from bumping the stepper and skipping belt teeth!!!....Works Great! More adds would be printing on a 60C heated glass bed with hairspray, hotend with PLA temp at 235C and using a Filament sponge filter guide impregnated with silicone fuser oil for bowden lubrication and filament cleaning. For those that care about their drive belts, I highly recommend 303 rubber/plastic/vinyl protectant found here!!!:

https://youtu.be/dRXkt6Dgi4k

Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R1.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.X303+pro.TRS0&_nkw=303+protectant&_sacat=0

CHEERS!!!

Thanks for the info. I would love to add this information, but none of thesr are troubleshooting an issue preventing you from printing. Again I appreciate the information.

I will have to find a way to incorporate this into this guide, or possibly make a E3 recommended mods guide, which in my opinion is a shortlist. I am still testing out specific mods to see their effectiveness and quality of prints and the reduction of sound from motors fan and what not.

Added fix for under extrusion. Also with that fix I posted a new extruder assembly I will continue to test and post results and how it may help with extrusion/ feeding issues

I was going to leave out control board troubleshooting as that is a beast in itself but have recently seen a slew of people, old and new, with an issue as to why this is happening and how to resolve. May require purchasing parts if you do not have replacements.

Something I'd like you to add to help others (as I experienced this problem) is that if your prints come out oblong or sort of stretched along a diagonal, it means your X-Axis belt needs tightening. If you have difficulty tightening it with your hands, you can put an allen wrench between the roller at the end of the x-axis bar and the bar itself and lever the roller farther out with the allen wrench, and tighten the screws with a different wrench once it reaches optimal tightness. It should twang a little bit if you pluck it. Thanks for your work helping the Ender 3 community.

ok it has been added to the guide

Lol this is how I tightened my belts when I first assembled them., and the reason I do not use belt tensioners on these printers. Bit o will as it as some may not think of this

Thanks for the post. Battling my Ender3 right now. My stock hot end split on me tonight so I’m looking for a replacement and how to. Cheers.

Hotend broken. I recommend a micro swiss all metal since you've to replace it. It's a world of difference, IMO, from the stock hotend. Upgrade to that if it within our means

Thanks for all the great research that went into this! I know a lot of people get overwhelmed when something goes awry and telling people to search just isn't helpful. This is a one stop solution center to everything Ender 3!

Thanks for the kind words. That was the goal, to give folks a comprehensive place to go, where they can get information without having to wait for responses for an issue. I do not plan on assisting with in this Thingi, but if they go to the original thread I will take the issue and assist, and once resolved (which will depend on them responding back that is was fixed, which is another thing people need to work on) I will add it to the guide if it is not already on there. Again if it is in the guide I will just refer them back to that section of the guide.

this is where it all began had to make it into a thingi because I change and change and change things so much they flagged the post, sucks because I have it pinned in the ender3 group, but this is the origin page of this beauty https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/ender3/forums/general/topic:36068#comment-2455385