So I have been all over the group lately, trying to assist here and there the best I can. I am no Ender 3 expert, or 3d printing as a whole. But I do have a great grasp on the concept of printing, from failures and success of my own. So I created this here to give people a one stop shop for assistance. All information can also be found if you know who to look for them, but this is for those who just cannot seem to locate the info they need or are too lazy to do the legwork themselves. In the end the goal is to same, get it working and getting answer
This is where it all began had to make it into a thingi because I change and change and change things so much they flagged the post, sucks because I have it pinned in the ender3 group, but this is the origin page of this beauty https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/ender3/forums/general/topic:36068#comment-2455385
ok birthday season is over I can update this more promptly now. So BIG SHOUT OUT TO @darcdrake for supplying the community with a S3D profile settings file for the Ender 3 /Pro. Since I do not have S3D this is very helpful, and will not for sometime. Still working on a Slic3r PE profile, I have just not had the time to intently sit and adjust over and over for the few weeks, hopefully one coming soon from me or from another group member. Check the thing files for the S3D file.
Adding simple cleaning steps to prevent unnecessary issues****
Adding fix in "User Fixes" for extruder not feeding filament during print, but feeds filament for purge, skirts, brims, and rafts. I looked around for a fix to my issue and could not find an answer to my issue. Back story leading up to issue, what I tried and tested, and what actually fixed it. Sorry no video showing the issue, as it doesn't cross my mind unless I reach out for help. (Note to self, start documenting your own issues with videos for others to reference)
Not much has needed to be added as of the last change, that I can think of. I believe this is helping a lot of folks, as I have seen a big decrease in post regarding issues. One issue not covered here is understrusion from moisture ridden filaments. Adding to users fixes with attributing parties listed.
Added a section for Slicer profiles, if anyone has others please post, them in the comments so they can be tested. Please state slicer used and example prints of said profile.
Added a Cura Profile settings, which was graciously provided by @EnderGuy on this thread https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/ender3/forums/general/topic:36169#comment-2470647. The profile works fine as is, albeit, there are something I would change personally. The OP has denoted areas of change per some suggestions.
I have also made my own version of the same profile to be in line with using the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend, which has a shorter retraction (3-4mm) distance. Adjusted support settings, was set to everywhere and was also very hard to remove, not an issue if you are not using supports. Temp can be too high for some filaments, again I use an all metal with a steel nozzle, So I need higher temps (5-10°C) either way.
There are many other changes I made for my printer specifically, so take both and try them out. I suggest using the original profile for any not sure what to set their own settings to and go from there making your own slight changes and then testing. I tested the original 10 times with different setting adjusted to find my personal favorite
Cura Profiles added to files section for ease of access. All official credit for the profiles go to @EnderGuy
Added under extrusion issue that I, the OP for this guide, experienced.
Rearranged some thing in the text. Kinda threw everything together as it was found or provided to me. Just basically made it easier to read through. So structural and literacy edits, nothing more
User @TheMagicalC added a great suggestion regarding belt tension. Which I had done myself as well, but did not think much of it as it was sensible for me to do some might now think so simply as I and TheMagicalC had done. See "user fixes" section below
Added Reddit Link for Fixes, upgrade fixes, and common issues
Got bored and looked around on facebook at the official Ender 3 group, and found something, IMO, that many of you could/ should take a look at this as well.**
Enjoy the loooooooong read. (see attached PDF)
**Full disclosure TL/DR
So I thought I would add a pretty good assembly video, which I followed and have had none of the common little issues. This along with some of the other links below have help me and others. So check it out if you haven't yet. https://youtu.be/me8Qrwh907Q
Reddit link for Recommended fixes and upgrades
Another great reference regarding printer alignment which many of you find useful
Another guide for assembly from makersteve, just a different approach with a few different steps
FOR THOSE WITH Z AXIS BINDING ISSUES / makersteve
FOR THOSE WITH COMPRESSION/ PUSH FITTING ISSUES OR JUST LOOKING TO SAY TO CHANGE THEM FROM STOCK / makersteve
EXTRUDER UPGRADE AND POSSIBLE UNDER EXTRUSION FIX / makersteve
Another guide, this one is regarding the XT-60 connectors which connect from the PSU to the Control boards main PWR / makersteve
Next link is not a troubleshooting link but is still good to have the ENDER 3 Github info
REPRAP IS YOUR FRIEND, GET FAMILIAR WITH IT
TROUBLESHOOTING LINKS LISTED BELOW
Generic Troubleshooting - https://reprap.org/wiki/Troubleshooting
Print Specific Troubleshooting -
Extrusion Issues - https://reprap.org/wiki/Inconsistent_Extrusion_Troubleshooting_Guide
Calibration Fun - https://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration
Heated Bed https://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed
USER FIXES COMMON AND UNCOMMON
"A Little Empty"
I have been fighting under extrusion for a while now but now the infill that is not touching the walls is under extruded and the walls have some gaps too. All my prints start off perfectly even the infill is fine for the first 2 cm but then it starts to go wrong. I have changed the print temperatures, infill speeds, wall speeds, cleaned the hot end, replaced the nozzle, lowered acceleration all to no effect. See the picture as it is clear that it starts off well then deteriorates. I would be thankful for any advice.
(photo of the issue)
Resolution by @AsikDrone
"Bud i believe there is moisture in your filaments. Hydrolysis has more than likely occurred, i have had a similar issue for a few weeks now, i opened a new roll of filament and BAM! i got great prints again, i then took the main roll giving me grief to the oven and left it there on 160 degree for 14 hours and now that roll prints amazing as well.. dude when all else fails, check for moisture in your filaments..."
"The Pry and Tighten"
Something I'd like you to add to help others (as I experienced this problem) is that if your prints come out oblong or sort of stretched along a diagonal, it means your X-Axis belt needs tightening. If you have difficulty tightening it with your hands, you can put an allen wrench between the roller at the end of the x-axis bar and the bar itself and lever the roller farther out with the allen wrench, and tighten the screws with a different wrench once it reaches optimal tightness. It should twang a little bit if you pluck it.
Thanks for your work helping the Ender 3 community.
"Toe The Line"
X Axis Drive Belt Not Parallel to Extrusion
I had an issue on my Ender 3 Pro where the X Axis drive belt was not running parallel to the extrusion. After a lot of investigation in turned out that the tensioner assembly plate was slightly bent. Using a shim between the plate and the extrusion rectified this issue (see attached images from original message on this thingi and also on the original post)****
"The Straight and Narrow"
Personally I probably had one of the worst Enders ever sold. I spent months trying to figure out why the bed wouldn't level when it was already flat. The front right and rear left corners were perpetually too high Finally, DerWaldschrat (I think that's how you spell his username) pointed out that it had to be a warped Y axis extrusion. Sure enough, it leveled perfectly after replacing the extrusion.
USER: SHENKOE (wait thats me)
Ohhh Nooooo (in my Family Guy voice) I have under extrusion. Why could this be happening I just printed something and switched out filament, now it under extrudes.
ender 3 (obviously)
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend w/ 0.4mm standard steel nozzle
Hatchbox, Esun, and CC3D for PLA / Sunlu for PLA+
capricorn xs ptfe
stock extruder with 3rd party push fittings
So I checked the nozzle clear, did cold/ atomic pulls with white filament to be sure all was clean. tightened the nozzle, removed the nozzle, removed the heat break from the sink and checked interior walls, all clean,checked tube seems good, a little worn from use on 2 printers, but still good. checked extruder assemble, there is tension, but there could be more.
Tested first layer everytime I completed a step, everytime it would under extrude. So I decided to swap the ptfe tube for one I had not used from some other 3rd party. Removed the extruder release arm, low and behold the filament had already worn a groove in the arm after only a few weeks of moderate printing. Luckily I believe in spare parts and had printed an extruder assembly called the Bantamfeeder > https://bantam.design/feeder 2 weeks ago, unsure when I would test it. Well guess im testing it out now.
So I swapped out the assembly and ptfe tube, viola issue resolved see newly added photos.
USER: SHENKOE (me again)
WHY YOU NO FEED FILAMNET
So I wanted to try kipper out, long story short it did not work just yet (configuration issues, will try again later on). Refreshed firmware for Marlin 1.1.9, ran test print starts, purge starts.... Then stops and no filament extruding during print. Stop test again with 4th brim, starts, purge, brim prints, model doesn't. Rinse wash repeat. Checked drivers, voltage good, not over heating. Motors good as commands from terminal work.
Fix: Refreshed Marlin from a fresh edited download. Test print start and extruder feeds during print cycle. Job well done. Issue was original Marlin install was corrupted some where, maybe a line was broken while I left it open. Who knows but it is all working fine. Sometimes all you need is a fresh install of Marlin to get the issue gone.
So a few of us in the group have tested and adjusted a Cura profile (specific to the Ender 3 (E3), provided by @Ender3Guy. I have taken the liberty of editing the profile for my printer (see my printer setup in the "User Fixes" section at the bottom)
Simplified 3D (S3D)
Thanks to @darcdrake for a very good S3D setting config file. As not many people have S3D, so this is great to have here with the community. hope you all enjoy. Linked photos of models printed with this profile.
So I found this while shredding some waves. Just tips to help people address their issues in the forum and how to get answers sooner, rather than later or not at all. These are not oriented towards 3d printing, but the intent still applies to any forum that you request help on.
Before You Ask
Before asking a technical question by email, or in a newsgroup, or on a Web site chat board, do the following:
Try to find an answer by searching the Web.
Try to find an answer by reading the manual.
Try to find an answer by reading a FAQ.
Try to find an answer by inspection or experimentation.
Try to find an answer by asking a skilled friend.
When You Ask
Choose your forum carefully
Be sensitive in choosing where you ask your question. You're likely to be ignored, or written off as a loser, if you:
Post your question to a forum where it's off topic
Post a very elementary question to a forum where advanced technical questions are expected, or vice-versa
Cross-post to too many different newsgroups
Post a personal e-mail to somebody who is neither a personal acquaintance nor personally responsible for solving your problem
Use meaningful, specific subject headers
On mailing lists, newsgroups, or Web forums, the subject header is your golden opportunity to attract qualified experts' attention, in around 50 characters or fewer. Don't waste it on babble like "Please help me" (let alone "PLEASE HELP ME!!!!"; messages with such subjects get discarded, by reflex). Don't try to impress us with the depth of your anguish; use the space for a super-concise problem description, instead.
One good convention for subject headers, used by many tech support organizations, is "object - deviation". The "object" part specifies what thing, or group of things, is having a problem. The "deviation" part describes observed deviation from expected behaviour.
(non-3d printing question examples)
HELP! Video doesn't work properly on my laptop!
X.org 6.8.1 misshapen mouse cursor, Fooware MV1005 vid. chipset
X.org 6.8.1 mouse cursor on Fooware MV1005 vid. chipset - is misshapen
Be precise and informative about your problem
Describe the symptoms of your problem or bug carefully and clearly.
Describe the environment in which it occurs (machine, OS, application, whatever). Provide your vendor's distribution and release level (e.g.: "Fedora Core 2", "Slackware 9.1" etc.).
Describe the research you did to try and understand the problem before you asked the question.
Describe the diagnostic steps you took to try and pin down the problem yourself, before you asked the question.
Describe any possibly relevant recent changes to your computer or software configuration.
Ok this became longer than I wanted, so if this is unclear, check the link out
I recommend this to anyone who has had or has issues with the bed getting leveled or is just plain tired for leveling at anytime. I personally do not believe in ABL devices, they are band-aids to the actual issue. If you haven't heard of it or just have not cared to do this next step you should. *https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415460 and pair it with this to complete the conversion https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193722.**
After these changes were made on my ender 3s or my other printer formerly known as an A8(still have just not used and halfway disassembled), I have what I like to call walk away printers. I press print and walk away, without fear of a bad first layer. Check on the printer after a few minutes, if I'm still around, and if all looks good (whether still on the first layer or not) I let it rockout.
the second link is specifically for the Ender 3. I have done this on both my E3's, I use double thumbwheels with nyloc nuts and no springs.
SPRINGS ARE BAD, MMMMKAAAY.
IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO THESE CHANGES YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK, AS I HAVE HAD ONLY POSITIVE RESULTS WITH THIS SETUP ON 3 DIFFERENT PRINTERS. YOUR OWN EXPERIENCE MAY VARY
NOT MY STL MODEL OF THE ENDER 3 JUST ADDED IT TO GET THIS POSTED (LINK TO PERSONS WHO CREATED THE STL FILE- https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4WGWB2OmqR4-creality-ender-3-model