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Mvieleers

Ender 3 Case SKR 1.1 / 1.3 with Raspberry Pi and LM2596

by Mvieleers Apr 12, 2019
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Hi there, awesome design and can't wait to print it! Just wondering if it would be possible to shrink the height a bit so it's like this one you did: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3502425, how tight would it all be in that scenario and could the top be raised in order to counter that?

Ender 3 Case Control Board MKS Gen L with 4988 steppers - Raspberry Pi 3B - LM2596

Thanks! Main limiting factor to the height is the holder for the fan. It’s 40mm tall sitting on the bottom which is 4 mm. Height of the case is 60mm but the y-axis cuts out a portion. Without exact measurements I think it could be 5mm lower, but not more. Your looking at quite some work to change the height, so not sure if it’s worth your effort.

Was hoping I could make it flush with the base, would be able to use a 5015 radial instead for the fan, I'm pretty useless at CAD though. Also hoping to adapt this for my ender 3 pro. Any chance you could help me out? I'm more than happy to print prototypes and let you know how things size up but I don't think this is the right project for me to start with CAD :P

I am currently redoing this SKR case for the Ender 3. Going to make it 55mm in height (so will not be flush), but will include feet with the design as well. That one will still be using the 40x40x10 in the case. Will try to make a version for the pro based on that one next. If you follow me in thingiverse you'll get notified when they will be published. Might take some time though...

Aaah alright, any idea how long it will take?

Well, the wait is over. I have a version you can test.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3683625/files

Please note that you will need thread nuts for all connections M2 for the Raspberry Pi and M3 for all other connections.
You can buy on aliexpress like this one: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Transkoot-450-Pcs-M2-M3-M4-Kits-Messing-Injectie-Moer-Koper-Insert-Gekartelde-Noten-Opruwen-Moer/32952263262.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.683d4c4dcaGOXU

Please note that I do not have an ender 3 Pro, so I was unable to test. I'm pretty sure the cases will fit as these have the same dimensions as my other things and they work fine on the ender 3.
It's the lid that is the question. I have made cutouts for the y-axis limit switch and motor mount, based on the ender 3. Then I moved everything out by 10mm on each side. That adds 20 mm and should then fit the y-axis of the ender3 pro. That is, if the limit switch and motor mount are on the same place on the ender 3 pro.

My suggestion is you print the lids first so you can check whether the cutouts are correct.

Ender 3 Pro Case SKR 1.1 / 1.3 with Raspberry Pi and LM2596

That looks awesome, thank you so much! Will continue this conversation on that version

Cool design.

I took the liberty to go through the Fusion file. I'm not very proficient with F360, but I did a couple modifications in Onshape because I was getting a few assembly issues :

  • Lengthened the fixing "ears" down to the ground
  • I removed the hook into the Y axis extrusion. My printer is really well zoomed in, and there is no clearance to the Y extrusion. Plus it adds a crappy little support to remove, and with the back alignments into the X extrusion and the two pairs of lateral sliders in the extrusions, everything is already quite static !
  • I removed the upper rear locator and the upper extrusion rails as well. Technically you don't need two, they create more supports and more ways to have assembly issues
  • I added clearance between the two control boxes. As they are drawn in your file, there is no clearance. Maybe recess the faces by -0.5 or -1 just to allow them to slide without rubbing
  • Generally I would add a bit more clearance to the parts of the printer... they are not always perfectly the same !
  • Also there is an issue in the way you shelled the Pi side. Some of the walls are hollow, including in the STL

Hi,

Thanks for your feedback. Below some comments.

  • Lengthened the fixing "ears" down to the ground
    • I guess this is just "looks". I personally didn't want that as there is a risk something will get caught on the corner as it is sticking out.
  • I removed the hook into the Y axis extrusion. My printer is really well zoomed in, and there is no clearance to the Y extrusion. Plus it adds a crappy little support to remove, and with the back alignments into the X extrusion and the two pairs of lateral sliders in the extrusions, everything is already quite static !
  • I removed the upper rear locator and the upper extrusion rails as well. Technically you don't need two, they create more supports and more ways to have assembly issues
    • My choice was to have as much support on all sides so there is no chance of it wobbling and thus creating unwanted noises. If you feel it has enough support with the extrusions removed, go for it!
    • The supports should be very easy to remove, even the very small one for the y-axis extrusion. If they don't come off easily you might want to check your support settings in the slicer and create a little bit more spacing between part and the support.
  • I added clearance between the two control boxes. As they are drawn in your file, there is no clearance. Maybe recess the faces by -0.5 or -1 just to allow them to slide without rubbing
  • Generally I would add a bit more clearance to the parts of the printer... they are not always perfectly the same !
    • There is clearance in the design for all rails that slide in. There is none needed between the two cases. If your printer is calibrated correctly (esteps and flow rate) and your frame is not bend, then the whole assembly should slide in perfectly.
  • Also there is an issue in the way you shelled the Pi side. Some of the walls are hollow, including in the STL
    • This was an issue with the earliest version. Since then this was sorted and the files in the files section should be ok now. Could it be that you are working from a set of files that was from before that. (note to self: I should keep change log to indicate when I replace files).

Best,
Marc

Hi Marc,

Yes, the ears is more of a cosmetic thing indeed.
I saw the 1mm clearance around the sliders, though in my case if I don't insert the case perfectly straight, the aluminium eventually digs in and heels the case one way or the other. I guess it's probably not helped with the 0-clearance condition elsewhere, really.

Frame not bent -> precisely the issue, as with 0 clearance I can only insert it 50% of the way and then in jams. I could still take a file and file things off a bit though.

I checked the files again... the issue is still there at least in the STLs for the Pi case (haven't seen it on the SKR side). See screenshot.

Cheers !

Hi,

Ah, you mean the corners being hollow, right? The issue before was a complete wall being hollow. That was fixed. I've redone the complete box from the ground up then.
The process has been to sketch the bottom, then to extrude that up to the height and after that shell the solid box, so the walls remain. Apparently that leaves the corners to not be filled. Really wouldn't know how to correct that. Then again, the structural integrity with this stl is very solid, so there's absolutely not an issues after printing with the corners as far as I can see.

Best,
Marc

Why this version don't have supports to screw a buck converter for Pi?
Also it is possible to add mounts to PT100 amp board? Also woull be cool to add some random supports just to screw other things that may be required

What is needed differs for each person. The fusion360 file is included so that everybody is able to add stuff for their personal use.

I have an SKR 1.3 and Pi 3b+ - is this good to go? Should I start printing?? :)

Yes. Go for it!

I guess it won't work with the Pro's 4040?

No, it’s designed for standard ender 3. Fusion360 files included though. You can adjust for pro.

I have no problem updating the files; I am just trying to figure out the best way to identify the difference. Any idea? Happy to share back once I get it dialed in.

The obvious difference is the 40x40 rail instead of the 40x20 rail. In the middle of the box is a connector that slides into the bottom of the y-axis. This has to move 10mm left and right and then it needs to be mirrored as the wider y-axis has 2 full vslots where the the 40x20 rail has 1 vslot exactly in the middle.
Then you need to extrude the back of the box 10mm left and right so it sits agains the y-axis.
Finally you would need to adapt the covers. Everything needs to move 10mm to the left and right.

i have the other version printed and the usb is not correct that hole for the skr 1.3 and the stepper motor there is not enough space under to put the plate on the case

In this version for the skr board I have moved the usb few millimeters to the right, according to the dimensions for the skr that should fit. My skr board has not yet arrived though, so I'm not able to verify yet.
In regards to the cover: not sure why it doesn't fit. It is a thight fit, but I had no problems sliding it in between (see image). Could it be that your stepper motor cable is coming in from below? In that case you should turn the stepper motor so the cable comes in from the back as per my installation instructions and the image I've uploaded with this reply.

The top plate is not correct there is not enough space for the swicht. I have to cut it or it Wil not fit

This is an error in my design. As I am using sensorless homing with TMC2130's, I did not take the limit switch into account.
Under thing files, you will now find 2 versions, one with and one without limit switch.

This is the version from mks gen L see pictures there is not enough space between stepper motor. And the USB I have cut some plastic for the is card and USB plug.

Mmm, interesting. With the dimensions of the ender3 cad file it all fits. It also fits in reality on my printer. Only possible explanation I have is that you either have a bend y-axis or your holes for the stepper motor mount are drilled lower than they should.

The usb and sd card slot adaptations are due to the differences between the mks and the skr. With this skr version that should all be fine.

i think is be-cos i have a stepper damper than the dimensions are different i think

maby you can make a version from the plate that the z motor is cut out

You can try this one. I've removed the area where normally the stepper motor mount and stepper motor itself are. I then cut away an additional 8mm for taking the damper into account. Hope it's enough for you. Otherwise, please use the fusion360 file to make your own version.

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