SZD-55 rc GLIDER, also named Nexus 900 sailplane in rc world: original design by Franck Aguerre!
- ROTOWING system with very easy commands setup (2 micro servo and you fly!)
- TOTAL WEIGHT: 150gr~
- WINGSPAN: 93cm
- AIRFOIL: fad05cnc (credits to Franck Aguerre)
- FLY DIFFICULT: medium (not for beginners), but fun guaranteed!
- TOTAL PRINTING TIME: 15/20 hours
Ready to fly in 2-3 hours of works/settings.
Now print and fly!
PS: any question? feel free to post a comment.
donation: I have done this project for hobby and pleasure, but if you like you can give me a tip through thingiverse. Click on “Tip designer” on the left. I will use donations to develop future 3d flight projects!
- 1 x wing joiner: best choice: 3mm carbon rod - 50cm length; alternative: any rod of 3mm, carbon or steel, from 20cm to 50cm;
- 4 x wing/servo commands rod: 0.8/1mm steel: 5cm; (umbrella rod?)
- 1 x shaft for fix commands to fuselage: 2mm steel: 5cm; (bicycle spokes is 2mm)
- 2 x 3.7gr servo (any light micro servo);
- 1 x 1s lipo 380mAh (any battery 10/20gr);
- your RX (2 channels);
- superglue (cyanoacrylate) and optional double-sided tape. (also epoxy is ok, but more complex in my opinion)
Printing timelapse and commands setup
I give you some suggestion for best plane printing practice, but if you print like you’ve always done you will still achieve good result.
Remember that from photos and videos you can get many informations.
The primary goal is to respect the indicated weight (or less), I suggest some settings, but you can use it or change it with what you think give the best strength to your printed parts.
For general 3D PRINTING STRENGTH a good start point is to have a little bit of OVER EXTRUSION (extrusion multiplier in simplify: 1.02), a little bit of OVER TEMPERATURE, 10/15 C° more than standard: maybe 210/215 C° and STOP or reduce the FAN (I use 10%).
You can print multiple parts at a time, but first try some single part, for test settings and weight, maybe start with a wing part. I upload also factory files that can be loaded in simplify3d, for check my settings (a little bit complex).
Fuselage: (3 parts - 60gr~ total weight - vertical print)
- tail: 12gr - solid infill every 25 layer (5mm), 0% internal infill, 1 perimeter, 3 top, 3 bottom.
- center: 10 gr - solid infill 4% (one X cross), 1 perimeter, 3 top, 3 bottom.
- head: 40gr - solid infill ~10%, 1 perimeter, 3 top, 3 bottom. Supports on servo housing and wings commands rod (not on wing joiner hole and battery top hole, if possible).
Wings: (3 parts - 60gr~ total weight - vertical print)
- 30gr/35gr each wing, 3% infill and solid infill every 25 layer (5mm). You need to mirror flip the wing parts for left/right wing.
Canoppy: (<10gr - vertical print )
- 0-3% internal infill, 1 perimeter, 3 top and 3 bottom (sand for correct positioning), maybe support.
- strong print: 3+ perimeter, 50%+ infill. 3+ top/bottom. Mirror flip for left/right command..
Experimental printing settings (horizontal):
The users "filofilato" and "Zenmaniac" have printed the fuselage and also the wings(more difficult) in horizontal orientation with success, maintaining the same weight or little more!
This is a powerfull solution for increase strength, especially for the tail that is the part more breakable of the glider.
The negative part is a lost in esthetic quality and a little more difficult in printing.
I report my settings:
- tail without stab (6gr) + stab (6gr): 1 perimeter, 3 top and 3 bottom, solid infill every 25 layer (5mm), 0% internal infill; (file: beta_tail_detachable_for_horizontal_printing.zip)
- center: 1 perimeter, 3 top and 3 bottom, 2% internal infill;
All 3d printed parts are joined with superglue. You can sand (very slightly) the top parts that you go to join. Cyanoacrylate work very good with PLA, when you join, in less than 10 seconds parts will be glued very hard, so do this accurately, you can’t reset parts when glued.
For wings you can help you with the wing joiner and doing that on flat table with baking paper.
I use double-sided tape only for join head to center part of fuselage: easy for change the rear of fuselage (center + tail) on crash.
Wings are fixed only “by pressure”, you can think that is risky, but I can guarantee that after many flights, also in hard condition, never the wings are been lost :)
So, it’s probably (you hope this) that the wings holes for the wing joiner is a little bit tight.
My method: I mount the wing joiner rod on a drill and if doesn’t enter/turn on wing hole I sand (~600 grit) it gently. I try often the rod on wing hole and I stop when I can turn the wing on rod but doesn’t exit too much easily.
It’s enough that DON'T EXIT from the rod if you SHAKE the wings upside down.
Trust me, you doesn’t lost your wings, maybe :D
Commands and RX settings
See the two video on top and all will be clear.
The kind of setup on your radio is the same as a fly wing.
Center of gravity (CG): 25mm from the leading edge.
Use exponential settings: more on ailerons, less on elevon.
when you have printed and fly at least one model you can try this optional improvements:
I have used with success carbon rowing on the tail in the zone where center join the tail, simply epoxy 12/24h and scotch (yes) for fixing the rowing to the part, than you can remove the scotch (not mandatory) when epoxy will be catalysed.
- I have also used fiberglass on a couple of wings, with vacuum technique: very good, but a little bit complex.
More photos on advanced_photos.zip.
Very thanks to:
- Dario Linty for transmitting me the passion of flying;
- Franck Aguerre for the original design of this fantastic model and for the relative airfoil;
- G.A.V.A., my local model aircraft group!
Se avete bisogno di info in Italiano per la stampa e l'assemblaggio, potente prendere spunto da quest'altro mio progetto, che ha le istruzioni in italiano: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2556521
La stampa 3D e le relative impostazioni sono molto simili e anche la modalità di volo e di comando!
Buoni voli e viva il pendio :)