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alex80it

Gravitrax compatible 6-exit Basic Tile

by alex80it Apr 9, 2019
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Hi
I die IT bottom down Witz support.but I think IT doesn't Looks very nice.and The 6 little holder have broken directly...
Amy advices?

Hi, I think you have a problem with your printer setup, because the bottom printed on supports should look not perfect, but much more precise than the one in your photo... I am attaching a photo of the bottom of that same model printed by me.

The 6 little holders are too thin, I agree, I made a new version of this tile adding a couple of features, one of which is thicker holders. I am going to upload it shortly. You will find it easier to print, but you have to calibrate your printer to be more accurate, I think...

How many layers do you leave between support and model? Consider this is a fairly large horizontal surface all resting on supports.. I leave 1 single layer between support and model surface, to be sure it adheres.
Also, I notice the plastic of the bottom layer does not reach the edges, and the edges do not stick to each other... How much is your layer height? I am using 0.20mm, and I am overlapping the edges slightly too.

Hm
Perhaps you can build it with that ring you have to glue in ?

Which setting could bei wrong in my printer?

Too cold?too hot?too slow?

I am not sure, maybe too fast and not hot enough, the plastic seems not to stick to itself properly in your photo... I can show you my print settings, for PLA, so you can compare... I am attaching an XML dump of my settings, I know it's not comfortable to read, but it contains everything!

To summarize a bit, I print at 0.20mm height, at 225°C for PLA, make 3 solid layers on top and bottom, usually infill from 30 to 75% depending on how much the final weight is important for the finished model, use supports for angles above 46°

I had 205°, 65° Glas tempered bed, 75 infill, 0.1 layer, 1.2mm top and bottom

I'm thinking maybe the temperature is too low... I don't have a heated bed, I use stick glue to avoid warping

And 60 Speed. Higher than 205° The pla is pulling Strings....
I like your Idea of a Base and different Inlays.
I would Like to build some too. With own ideas

I've uploaded a new version of this tile, now the 6 holders are thicker, and there are hex holes around it, to fit a future expansion I am designing...

A bit better
I am not good in CAD. Perhaps you can make Inlays for all original Tracks?straight,curve,3in1 etc?Like mine in the Pic

Looks much better now!
The idea of inlays for the original track parts is nice, but from a physics point of view, a whole piece (without inlays) has less vibration and is much more regular, thus reducing the friction and overall energy loss of the marble, making it travel further... So my suggestion is to only make parts that you would not find among the stock ones... Also, 3D printed plastic is micro-striped, so the friction is always much more than in a smooth cast part.
This said, the straight line is a very nice addition, as there is no straight line in the stock parts (only crossings, but they look bad on the tracks, with their "dead ends"! :)

Another Idea: Tunnel spacer inlays. Several Forms:straight,Cross,curve etc. I think als high as 2 spacers should bei fine.
Zur bottom is as Small as your inlays and gets wider to original length when IT comes out of The hole at 1cm

What do you mean? Like a rail extender? Make a drawing! I mean, with pen and paper, and then take a picture :)
Then I can design it and you can print&test it!

I understand what you mean... A spacer that is also a tunnel, so you can build on top of it but at the same time have marbles go through it... I am already designing something like that, a modular pass-through elevation system... You will see in a short time, as soon as I finish testing it !
I am also about to publish a few other designs that are really fun to use... :)

Why don't you close the bottom and use a ring to glue in, like in designs from other users? I like your design and ideas very much, but wouldn't it be printed faster, when you don't have to print support. And instead the ring? Or do you need the hole in the bottom for another design?

The hole pn the bottom is useful, see my cannon design for an example of why I needed a hole in this tile... :)

I'm actually printing the canon and realized why it is there