MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now



by clintfisher Apr 6, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Thank you very much for you work and share Clintfisher,

I've been using this for a long time, but now with the V2 enclosure, the 45 ° angle outputs add friction, I'd like to know if it's possible for you to do the same thing by putting the PT straight because for the moment I have to cross the filaments, that is to say, entry left side and exit right side, and vice versa.

Thank you in advance for the time you will give me, and I hope you can help me.

It probably would be possible to make a version with M6 threads, but as far as I know, the filament hole in those fittings is narrower, and would probably add friction to the buffer, which is a big negative. I wouldn't recommend it. Given that I'm already too busy to do it, I'm gonna pass.

However, I've posted the source, and you could go through the timeline and to the sketch where I define the hole size. Then go to the part of the timeline where I thread the cylinders and edit the thread feature.

This is almost perfect! Is it possible to make a version with m6?

I know a bit late, but I just uploaded a Remix for PC4-M6 users!

If you could make the top hole (number 3) flat instead of angled that would be a big help.

Angle is good on 4 out of 5 PTFE tubes. Prusa IKEA v2 lack table has 5 rolls of filament on top front of table with buffer behind. Roll 3 is in the middle and the top fitting angle of extension is angled to the right. This works good for rolls 1,2,4,and 5. Just top right fitting should be angled in to make a more straight path for the middle roll of filament. I use one extension for rolls 1 & 2. The other extension is on the right side for rolls 3,4,& 5. I could email a picture if this is not clear.

Ahh, ok, that was the other possibility. I think I understand: Make the angle of channel-3 a 90 degree angle. If this is what you mean, then what do you think would be the best center-point for the hole?
A) The current center point of the un-threaded-side hole.
B) The center point of the the threaded hole side
C) Somewhere in between (specify)

Having said that, this will be a bit of a challenge to do, because of the way the part is constructed,
...and I'm not sure I have the time.
I will take a peek and see what could easily be done to separate channel 3's angle.

I love your design. It makes loading filament so much easier. I use 2 in front and 2 in back side of buffer on an IKES lack Table v2 setup. Would it be possible to angle #3 in towards the middle instead of out? There is too much bend in PTFE tube for the middle spool. I would do it but I lack the CAD skills.

Hi, Thank you. It was born out of necessity. :)
I am not certain what you are asking for. I'll take a guess. :)
Do you mean for me to make a 3rd version where the five PTFE connectors are angled differently?

Wonderful, thanks!
Have you run into any dry box or enclosure for the buffer? That way I can keep my water soluable filament loaded up and not worry about the moisture in the house ruining it.

(your comment changed - responding to new comment)

I have not created a dry box for the buffer itself. Seems it would be a bit of a challenge.

The instructions are fairly clear:

"Print two of these parts; one for the printer-side, and one for the spool-side."

"It fits on all four possible positions, using 2 or 3 screws, screwing each through the extension into the old filament-keeper-screw holes."
On each of the four possible positions, you will find 2 or 3 screw holes, depending on which position, that Prusa used to (poorly) lock the PTFE tubes in place. These are the holes that the extension mounts to using 2 or 3 of the five holes in the extension.

The printer and spool sides are the same sides as specified by Prusa. In the photo I posted, the spool side is the top, and the printer side is the bottom. (it makes sense that the printer side has more finger-room because that's where you'll most likely be fiddling with the filament).

Honestly one of the best things I printed for my MMU. I was legit trying to find every way under the sun to ditch the buffer but honestly it's one of the best solutions, just a PAIN IN THE ASS to load. This takes the struggle out of loading it.

This, the MMU2 underslung control panel and the MMU2 PTFE Holder are my favorite MMU2(s) mods. They make life so much easier, especially with the printer on the go.

MMU2 underslung control panel
Prusa MMU2 PTFE Holder M10 Passthrough Adapter

Thanks for the compliments! Ya, I couldn't imagine working without it. I'm happy with the 2nd version too. I use the 1st version on the spool side (filament is more likely to make it in to the correct channel when initially loading), and the 2nd version on the printer side, because it has a few mm more room for fingers.

Must agree with Eric, this makes loading the filaments on the MMU2S Buffer MUCH easier!
Great build!

I'm surprised nobody else has commented on this yet. To me, this is a "must have" for the new MMU2S. Makes EVERYTHING much easier for anyone with hands bigger than those of a 4-year-old.