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CR-10 Mod - X Belt straightener - Tensioner Side

by Cornely_Cool Apr 3, 2019
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Hi there. I was wondering, why not inserting in the model hexa-holes on the opposite side of the screws, so you could insert Nyloc nuts (gluing them would not even be needed if the tolerances are correct) and it would prevent the screws from slipping if the thread created in the plastic is ruined? It would make the screws more firm and much upgrades I did use this system.

The answer is simple...is not necessary!
The nut slot was present in my first models of tensioner, but it didn't give any benefit at all (really, at that time, was creating a big weakness on the resistant section of the tensioner main screw, more evident if you print the screw in vertical), so I removed it.
Furthermore, without the nut, is one piece less to buy or find.
Anyway, the purpose of the screw is to work as "fulcrum" for the bearing, so, due to the presence of the bearing, it didn't receive torsions forces that make it loose. If you are locking the screw so strong that you can damage the threads generated on the plastic (the holes for the screw are designed smaller than the screw by purpose...), you are doing something wrong my friend!...

Well I didn't really try this design after printing it because after I installed it, I realized that the belt even without any tensioning is like 5cm far from the x carriage... so no way it works to me infortunately.

Is written in the main page of the project that require a longer belt...

LOL man I have a good habit not to read red things... red just hurts my eyes ahah. Anyway I got a spare new belt and I am alredy printing belt clamps for it.. tho I tried twice to print the body with petg and they both broke in the same point so I am trying to use 6 or so walls and more than 50% infill..

I had to install a new Belt, cause the old one broke and I hate the design of the belt guidance as well.

But I only have idler pulleys GT2 20T with 5mm bore.

Would it be possible to make a Design with 2 idler pulley GT2 20T with 5mm bore?

Also for the Motor side?

The goal of my design was to fit an extra idler pulley without change the existing design of the tensioner, and I think I‘ve reached my target!

About your question, unfortunately, the dimensions of the 20T pulley are too much different than the 16T one, so this will require to make a completely new design (especially on the motor side, where the space is limited...), and at the moment I don’t feel the need (and especially...I don’t have any spare idlers!!!!) to modify what is actually installed and start a test of a new system....

Sorry man!

Hi! This is awesome as are the other mods you've published. I have a couple of your designs on my printer, so thanks! :)

I'm just curious, wouldn't it be possible to achieve the same with a single, bigger pulley and retain the OEM belt? That would mean fewer modifications and fewer moving parts.

Thanks for your comment!
You are right, you can achieve the same result with a bigger bearing, but, the reasons why I didn’t drawn the tensioner are basically tree : :

  • With a bigger idler pulley, you will need to change the design of the tensioner (i like when the tensioning screw is in axis with the bearing and the vslot profile...,), and make it with some strange shape!
  • if you want the tensioner in axis with everything, you need to increase also the diameter of the drive pulley on the motor side (and modify relative e-step value), with the result that you will decrease the precision on the x axis movement.
  • All my drawing, at least at the beginning, are intended for my personal use, and I tried to use the material I already had available at home.

In any case, with bigger bearings you will need to replace the oem belts due to the different path dimension.

Anyway, will be a really nice exercise try to project it!

This is great, the x axis belt has always annoyed me. However, I want to use this with toothed idlers instead of bearings. Do you think you could make a version of this and the other straightener with a 3mm hole? Other than that, 16 tooth idlers should be a drop-in replacement.

Yes, will be next step for sure, due to a small belt vibration generated by the theeth contact point change on the bearing small diameter (basically, the bearings are to small for be used in this way).
With the actual solution, I noticed a increased kind of ghosting on x axis (you can see some light vertical lines every 2 mm into the material)
With a pulley instead of the bearing, the system will be ok.
Just used bearings, because I have them at home...

As soon as I will have time...

Added new body for GT2 16T pulley.