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ecoiras

Jetson Nano Case

by ecoiras Mar 26, 2019
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Anyone else struggling with the honeycomb structure of the bottom part? In my opinion it is a problem of the combination of wall thickness between the honeycombs and nozzle diameter. I use the very common 0.4mm nozzles. The wall thickness is 1.8mm. Thin wall thicknesses should always be an multiplication of the nozzle diameter (e.g. 0.4 / 0.8 / 1.2 / 1.6 / 2.0). Other nozzles like 0.3 / 0.35 should be fine.

I now try a run with 40% (!!) overlapping and it seems to work but this might causes shape accuracy problems. Lets see

Wow, that's a weird problem! What slicer are you using? That's the more likely cause. Have you tried using other slicing programs?

The models in the photos were done with Slic3r PE (now called Prusa Slicer), and printed on a PRUSA i3 MK3 using a 0.4mm nozzle with no issues.

Hmm I am using Simplify3D. I started with Repetier-Host & Slic3r and not so happy with it. But that was a year ago. Maybe the algorithms are better now and Simplify3D has some issues with this particular case...

But hey, I just finished the bottom with 40% overlapping and it looks great! I really like the design! Very professional and with love for details. Tank you for sharing your design!!

This recent thermal measurement sheds some light on which filament material might be best for your application. Look at all three pages.

https://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&item=jetson-nano-cooling&num=1

“Fan-less 58 degrees average with a peak of 69 degrees. When having the PWM fan attached, the average temperature under load was 42 degrees with a peak of 51 degrees.” Under nominal room temperatures. Temperatures in Celsius.

Excellent info! I'll update the thing's description with the link.

Thanks!

I actually bought mini antennas to tuck under or around the board so there's no need anymore, thanks though!

Thanks @ecoiras

Is anyone able to remix this case that will allow openings for two antennas in the rear? Unfortunately I'm not super great with remixing so I'm hoping someone can come to the rescue. Thanks in advance!

This is great!, nice work @ecoiras. I may have to remix your base for a drone mount im thinking of :)

Excellent! Looking forward to see the result!

Thank you !

Getting my Nano in a few days so this will help !
Hopefully, the bottom part prints fine without supports :D

Yes, no supports needed. The openings for the connectors take advantage of the bridging capability of the 3D printer.

I've tried 2 times printing this in ABS and it's a nightmare. The 2 sidewalls of the bottom part are very flimsy. Printing without support is not possible because ABS does not use a fan to print and therefore the overhangs are not printed like PLA with lots of air to cool the layers. The sidewalls should of been alot thicker to be really strong for 3D printing. Maybe something to take care of in a next version?

In principle there should be no difficulty printing the case in ABS; maybe some warping but that's it. As for the fan you can switch it on if you think that's the issue; ABS will still print fine.

But just to be sure I will try to print the case in ABS later today and post here what I find.

Can you share some photos of the failed prints? It would help identifying the problem.

The issue is the warpin of the side columns on the sides of the print. Printing ABS with fan is a very bad idea as the warping will even become worse. Removing the supports is impossible without breaking the sides and supports are necesary because there is fan. I think the sides should be thicker and stronger to prevent issues printing in ABS.

I printed the bottom part in ABS and now I see what you mean: ABS contraction makes the thin vertical beams snap!

Note that I maxed the print settings just to replicate the problem (fan disabled for the first 2 layers, then always on at 85% and 100% for bridges), so a more conservative setting could still yield a good print. The top part of the case (yellow in the photo) printed fine with those settings nevertheless.

I will try to figure out how to reinforce those beams in case people want to print in ABS or other warp-prone materials like PP or PC.

Thanks!

It almost worked to print the top part in ABS but again the little vertical beams snapped. I printed the bottom in PLA resulting in a perfect print and now the Top in PET and it's printing great. I would suggest to other people printing in PET for 100% printing experience. Thnx for the quick response and for providing this design!

Yes you're right, I had the idea the box was a lot bigger since I don't have the Jetson yet. But in fact it is tiny so these bridges shouldn't be a problem at all :)