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RickSisco

Simple CR-10S Pro Dual Z Sync Mod

by RickSisco Mar 21, 2019
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Hi!
Before attempting this mod,
does the timing belt want any extra tension or is it sufficient as is?

You can shift the retaining blocks out a little to add tension, or print a tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3849326/files

CR-10s Pro Z-Sync Timing Belt Tensioner

Thanks for this mod, it's the only mod that fixed my z axis issue on the cr-10s pro. Highly recommend anyone with this printer to do the same. I was constantly having a z axis droop on the left side and tried everything I could find. Now the z axis stays perfectly aligned every time I power off.

Hi!
Any idea about the needed length of the belt for a CR-10 S5?
THX

Fantastic mod, works really well. I had to put one of the GT20 pulleys on the leadscrew, and tighten down the grub screws on that. Then put the belt between the two pulleys before securing the second pulley. In order to level the x-gantry just loosen the grub screws on one of the pulleys and tighten once it's level.

As I mensioned below, you can add a gap at the coupler on the motor shaft between the motor and the lead screw. I left close to 1.5 times engagement in the coupler with the motor shaft and the screw. This creates more screw at the top for the set (grub) screw to engage. Mine has been running this way for some time with no issue. This method does not require any other mods. I like the post below about opening the hole to reuse the cover plate. I plane to use that idea! Not trying to boast, but I am an industrial mechanic with 40ish years working on, and rebuilding a wide aray of production equipment. As long as you can have a decent amount of engagement, moveing the screw up this way is not a problem.

As I mensioned below, you can add a gap at the coupler on the motor shaft between the motor and the lead screw. I left close to 1.5 times engagement in the coupler with the motor shaft and the screw. This creates more screw at the top for the set (grub) screw to engage. Mine has been running this way for some time with no issue. This method does not require any other mods. I like the post below about opening the hole to reuse the cover plate. I plane to use that idea! Not trying to boast, but I am an industrial mechanic with 40ish years working on, and rebuilding a wide aray of production equipment. As long as you can have a decent amount of engagement, moveing the screw up this way is not a problem.

Comments deleted.

Mine is working fine without any tensioner. Everytime I check it, it is still level. You can get plenty of "extra" screw length for the pullies by putting a gap between the mortor shaft and the screw at the connector. Any engagement beyond 1.5 times the shaft diamerter is over kill. Another hint. Sqaure the uprights with a good quality square. Mine were way out. I just shimed under the front (or back, don't remember...) to get the 8020 for the Z axis perpendicular to the base. Also thinking of making supports.

When you say "square the uprights" do you mean the z-leadscrews, or the actual metal frame of the printer?

Will this upgrade work on a "standard" CR-10 upgraded with duel Z?

(I don't know if it has the same width as the CR-10S Pro?)
(Or can someone tell me the distance between the duel Z on a CR-10S Pro?)

Thanks

I really do not know why this is not standard on all the new printers.
I did a similar mod on my son's Ebay special. I makes a great difference!.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3542355

Geeetech i3 plywood printer Z axis connection

Did you ever need a belt tensioner on this mod? I have ordered the parts for this mod. Thank you for sharing.

Nice idea :)
I did the same, with one extra modification: i drilled out the hole in the retainer blocks so i could reuse them :). I just used a stepped drill to drill it out to 16mm, and then with a dremel and a sanding cylinder i made the hole a bit larger, and then i could reuse the retainer block nicely around the pulleys :)

I did the same modification - worked great! I nailed the retainer blocks to a piece of wood for stability, and then used a 5/8" bit to drill out the hole, the dremel to finish sanding and add a bit of clearance.

My shopping list:
Pulley Wheel (5 Pack) - $7.98: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077GMKW1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Timing Belt (2 Pack) - $18.88: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AXRB13Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total cost of mod: $28.84 after tax with free shipping.

Total time spent installing: 10 min drilling the top cap and sanding to proper clearance, 20 min installing pulley wheel + belt + leveling.

Now they want an arm and a leg for the belts anyone have a cheaper supplier anywhere?

AliExpress has the belts (5) for $8.50 US free shipping and the pulleys for $0.76 US each and free shipping to Canada, where I am.

Belt: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-lot-GT2-timing-belt-GT2-760-6-length-760mm-width-6mm-teeth-380-for-3D/32811199103.html

Pulley: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32986841158.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.59354c4dourRNT
Hope this helps,

Just checked and it was still $18.88 USD for me. Which seems to be on par for what you will find on Amazon.

It is way cheaper if you are in the UK. Approximately US $6.30 https://www.ebay.com/itm/GT2-2M-2mm-Pitch-6mm-Width-Closed-Loop-Synchronous-Timing-Belt-for-Pulley-CNC-3D/283194907394?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=583606854962&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

This mod sorted out my CR-10s Pro. The difference is incredible.
I also have the creawesome mod, anti backlash nuts and inductive proximity sensor.