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Tronxy X5S Gantry carriages and belt geometry alignment

by Gnattycole Mar 20, 2019
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Hello! Can you measure length between centers of wheel holes? I allembled mine, but it have problem fitting on profile, only with force, i suppose length differencies

Hi Lisuz,

Do you mean the measurement across the printers X axis from the inner sets of wheel centres? The wheels are a snug fit on the extrusion when assembled correctly but should not be that tight they bind. I'm not at home at the moment as at work offshore. I'm not due home for another 2 weeks so won't be able to take any measurements until then sorry. When you assemble the carriages to the printer, it's best to leave the screws that secure the x axis gantry rail loose. Fully assemble the carriages to the Y axis rails on each side of the printer and then run the gantry up and down the Y axis several times, ensure it runs freely before tightening the securing screws. I found it best to tighten 2 sets of screws and then repeat this process until all screws are tight and the gantry will run up and down the y axis smoothly without tight spots. It also means the printer frame needs to be square and true. If you have a tight spot at one end or the other, it could be the Y axis rails are not parallel. Slacken the frame assembly screws of the Y rails slightly and repeat exercising the gantry before re-tightening.
Hope this sorts out your problems.

I mean it very tight just mounted upon v-slot, it moves and moves without locks but some niticeable force required to move it. Like if there were overtightened eccentric nuts

Hi Lizus,
The best way to assemble the wheels is with the gantry blocks fitted to the rail before tightening the wheel bolts. This will ensure the maximum clearances as the wheels will be under compression from the rail. I guess it depends on the accuracy of your printer to print holes but the carriages are designed to be a good fit. My carriages are a snug fit but they move without undue force necessary and I've not had any missed steps or evidence of the steppers being unable to move the axis smoothly. If you are concerned, you could try slackening off the wheel nuts and re-tightening and if that doesn't work, you could perhaps open up the holes slightly with a drill. Make sure you tighten the nuts sufficient to flatten out the spring washer spacers, otherwise they will tend to knock the wheel off a true perpendicular plane from the axle and this will increase the friction. I'm not a big fan of Tronxy for using this method of spacing and would prefer a solid, flat spacer, but I've not experienced a problem after tightening firmly. (Obviously not tight enough to crush the gantry block).

Thank you! I will reassemble this with wheels fitted on rail, if this will be not enough i will just use drill

I finally printed these out and am starting to try to finagle them together with what I have, but I was wondering if you could maybe show a assembly guide in pictures or video? Having trouble figure this out and any help would be appreciated

Hi B14,
I don't have any further assembly info other than what is on the files as the printer is assembled now, however, more than happy to take some more photo's of my printer with all the bits fitted and hopefully show where the bits go. I can take some close up detailed shots for you if you like. Which bits are you stuck with and I'll try and offer a bit of help.

Best regards, Nat.

I am just trying to figure out which screws go where and wondering about the middle hole that doesn't have a screw in it? I assume thats to let a screwdriver through to mount a 12mm M4 screw and Tnut to the X axis extrusion?

I also assume you have the washers and 25mm M4 Bolt/TNuT on the back section?

Edit: I also now have a major problem, i put the m5 plain nut into the top of the section as directed, set my idlers up correctly and went to screw in the cap screw and the flat space thats not threaded dug into the nut permanently affixing it to the bolt and ripping apart the little slot where i put it in on the bottom plate. How is this supposed to go together with the cap head screws? I even purchased some that are 100% exactly the same as you listed...

Edit2: Ended up having to rig it together, had to take out the plain nuts and put washers over top of the holes so they idlers would stay at the same height. But it works now.

Hi B14,
I've updated the instructions set and put on the link as per comment below as I realised after re-reading them it wasn't all that clear. I guess it seems obvious when you're writing from your own build but unless you've been through the design piece, it is probably confusion. Hope you've got it sorted now.

Hi B14,
You are correct. The middle hole in the pulley support is there to enable access to the screws on the gantry block below which secure the X axis rail to the block. I put this to enable the adjustment of the rail if required, post assembly as it's a pain to have to take off the pully support. Standard M5 x 60mm Allen bolts can be used for the two outside guide roller axles because the rigid nature of the pulley support turrets allow you to fully tighten the nuts onto the bolts and crush down the stupid little spring washers Tronxy use for clearance on the wheel bearings, however, the rear inner guide wheel doesn't have a turret and instead doubles as an axle for the belt pulleys. The reason for the nut sunk into the gantry block is to allow the tensile load to be trapped between this nut and the guide wheel securing nut, avoiding tension transfer to the unsupported piece of the pulley support and distorting it, crushing the belt pulley bearings. I designed it like this as I didn't want the belt pulleys to be subjected to being pinched between the pulley support and the gantry block. The problem with a standard bolt is the threads are nut cut far enough to allow the bolt to fully drive home (As you found out by the sounds of it), hence the comment in the instructions to either run a die down a normal bolt for another 10-15mm or buy M5 x 60 set screws which are fully threaded. (see photo). (Amazon sell a selection for around a tenner: https://www.amazon.co.uk/iExcell-Stainless-Steel-Socket-Screws/dp/B07Q1PC5CT/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=m5+x+60+cap+head+fully+threaded&qid=1566289073&s=gateway&sr=8-2
but I got a small pack of two from Ebay for a couple of quid.
The front inner guide wheel axle uses the original mounting screw which has a pozidrive head.
Let me know if this helps or if you need any further info.

This is in my opinion, "The best Tronxy X5S Gantry system." I have been using it now for over 6-months. (PLA, 65% infill, 40mms, .2mm).
Thanks for designing and uploading it.

Thanks for the feedback 3D_BayBay. Much appreciated and glad someone has found it useful.
Best regards,

Hey, I would like to modify your design slightly so it matches the Idlers i use. Could you upload the parts as .step or .iges? I will not reupload or distribute my modifications. But if you want, i can send you the modified parts and you can upload them to your "Thing". I just Need to adjust the hight of the parts and make sure that the 36tooth Pulleys dont collide with the standoffs. I really would appricate it as it would save a lot of work.


I'm currently at work offshore and don't have access to the files at the moment as they're on a laptop at home. I get back onshore around 7th August so can send you them then if you like.
Best regards,

Can you send the files to me also? Thanx for great design

Hey Nat,
I really would appreciate it! :)

Are the source files available?

I was just looking for something like this because I use the same corney pulley guides by Han and was wondering if I should make a mounting system that basically makes the same spacing as those guides but sits ontop of the aluminum plate that came with my X5SA.

The ONLY question I have is that, is this longer than the base/stock plate? And if it is, does that restrict the print area because of it?

Also if possible could you list like the hardware used to mount the new plate? I am trying to figure out how you did the spacing on the pulley that needs to be raised higher. And I just thought of this, could it be possible to design the spacers into the design like the corner bracket? It has that built in space/washer bump but just ascending/descending for the two spacers you mounted onto the screw?

Hi B14d3,

It's A good point around the built in spacers but the reason I didn't design them into the model was because it would have made printing them a nightmare. The blocks and pulley supports are designed to be printed upside down and so each of their top surfaces are designed to fit flat on the build plate. If I model the spacer like in the corner pulley supports, you'd need a support building across the entire surface of the model, to the height of the spacer. It didn't matter with the corner pulley support as these need to printed on their sides. The pulley supports have the built in spacers on the underside as this didn't affect the printing so you only need the spacer washer sitting on the gantry blocks top surfaces.
The length of the blocks is larger than the stock ones but the print head will reach to all corners of the build plate still. The only thing you will need to do is change the end stop bracket as this will clash with the new blocks. I've referenced a suitable one in the build instructions.
All required materials and hyperlinks to sources where applicable, are under the "Post Printing" instructions in the file.
Hope the info helps, feel free to drop me a line to let me know how you get on.

Comments deleted.

How is printing for you now? I like the design because it does not stray too far from the original, just makes it more stable.

I've got the prototypes fitted currently and the trusty Anet decided to throw in its extruder hot end mid print of the V2.0 of these carriage blocks so I haven't tested them yet. The belt geometry is the same, I just added the captive nut recess for the shared pulley and wheel axle. I'm hoping they'll arrive today and I can get it fired up over the weekend. Will keep you posted.

This looks like a nice upgrade, following along to see how the final project turns out. Also can you include a list of the required hardware and parts? Looking forward to more pictured of the completed work.

Will do Chief. And thanks for the positive comment.