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ilikeatingcrayons

Hypercube Evolution with Rails and Universal Piezo Mount

by ilikeatingcrayons Mar 18, 2019
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Is there an opposite side of the "cone" on the tool mount or am I supposed to zip tie the tube to it without a front?

There is a small grove that should allow you to seat a zip tie.

Can you please clarify why the XY Idler has a hole for what looks like the Y rod? I am assuming it is to demonstrate that it is the same as the original?

No particular reason, I simply didn't take notice of it when I was working on the part.

Thank you! I am planning on putting this all together today but use a BLTouch not a Piezo so trying to figure that out. Any ideas/tips?

Are the rails same exact length as my current rods aka 510 & 550mm for 400x400? Or should they be slightly longer or shorter etc? Excited to try this! Also is there a 1515 or 2020 X version in the works?

X is the same length, Y are about 1 shorter since you will need to clear the upper screws on the belt idler mount and motor mounts.

Hi!

I had the same system structure.
Unfortunately, my tests showed that fastening the linear guides in plastic holders was not so positive.
Rigidity and torsion resistance are very important for this rail system. That's why I screwed the deflectors onto an aluminium plate.
Even our extruder holder is almost identical, but stiffness is also very important here. I will also produce this holder in aluminium. Of course I have a titan aero extruder attached to the linear guide and of course it is much heavier.

Nice work and that with the Mgn15 I do not find at all so bad. I need an upgrade. hehehe ;)

The added rigidity of aluminum is always nice, I have noticed that the rigidity of the extruder mount is noticeable especially with the aero, even with the traditional motion system on the HEVO which is part of the reason I went back to the bowden setup. The rail weighs more overall, but not slinging around that extra weight out from the center of mass on the carriage seems to have been beneficial, speed and quality are notably improved for me.

Nice setup though.

Nice work. I have a couple of other tools I want to be able to use when I do this upgrade and wondered if you could check my work for me. (make sure I didn't bugger anything too bad). I think the diamond mount should be fine. For the laser, I raised up the mounting holes so you can access the screws to mount the tool easier and also makes some space so you don't have to mod the shroud. Only 2.5mm so shouldn't be too much wasted for support.

Anyway, let me know what you think.

The diamond hotend is from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2885230
The laser shroud is from : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2771313
And the laser model is from: https://grabcad.com/library/2000mw-450nm-blue-laser-module-1

Modular Diamond Hotend for Hypercube Evolution
Laser Air Assist 4040

I'll take a look this weekend, and in the process I'll make a basic plate with template holes for more compatible mounting.

Awesome. Feel free to do whatever with the files I uploaded. Just include the original creators in your remixes. i don't really need credit for the 20 min of work I did to mod these.

So the diamond hotend setup looks fine to me, and while I think you'll get that laser to work it's a tight fit with the piezo tensioning bolts.

I might recommend for the laser that you mount it to the piezo plate.stl object directly since presumably you don't need to use the leveling features here of the piezo disc. EVen if you are looking to swap tools from time to time, I find that removing the whole piezo plate setup to be a breeze. You'll need to disconnect the piezo from the PCB, but this way you keep the pretensioning on the disc and it's 3 easy access bolts from that point.

Does that make sense?

Thanks for checking all of that. I was a bit worried about the clearance for the screws on the laser.

I get what you're saying and that makes a lot of sense. I was wondering about the tensioning of the piezo since I haven't directly used one before.

How do you think pegs would hold up instead of the 2 screws at the top of the carriage so it's a single screw to mount the tool? (similar to the base HEVO tool mounting system)

I'm in the middle of a move at the moment, so no printing for me for a while, but when I get the time I'll give this a go myself.

Actually no, and with the weight of the laser I think you would end up putting too much force on the bottom back of the carriage and snap. The 3 screws in the piezo plate are necessary to make the whole assembly rigid. In designing the assembly I did some unscientific testing of materials and weight to see how much for it would take before breaking and this point was always the weakest.

As for tensioning the piezo, I played around with this a bit. I thighten the screws evenly until I feel a sudden increase in resistance and stop. The tool mount should not be loose, but not so tight that it cannot compress the piezo disc any further. This should result in a small amount of pressure be pre-loaded onto the disc. In my unscientific tests (I tried a few setups) it gave sensitive and repeatable results.

The being said the screws at the bottom which act as a hinge are very tight on my setup. In all tests that I did the tension of these screws was unimportant because the tool mount itself always responded to pressure on the nozzle and was readable by the disc. I tighten these screws so that they are tight and the mount is rigidly held in place.

Good to know on the rigidity bit. I won't mess with that for now then. Thanks for the tips on setting up the piezo.

Nice job - def will look at the X carriage for my rebuild. Currently working on something similar as an end goal. Mind you though, these rails are not perfectly straight stand-alone and are meant to be mounted on an extrusion profile.

Yeah, you are right. My MGN15 has an ever so small but measurable curve which an extrusion would pull straight pretty esaily. However the stiffness of it alone means that it's not flexing so much from movement and bed levelling effectively compensates.

Originally I thought about this, but decided not to use an extrusion since I was worried about weight. In the end though I'm able to print at 120mm/sec with minimal artifacts, and 100mm/sec and none. It's performing much better than I thought so I might give it a try at some point. 1515 is pretty light and the added stiffness may not result in a reduction in speed.