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Case for MKS Gen L, Meanwell LRS 350-24 or Stock Ender 3 PSU, 2 MOSFETS, Raspberry PI 3 and buck converters

by mo78 Mar 15, 2019
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Have you considered adding a ground wire from the power supply to the printer? That would provide additional safety in case something is wrong the PSU.

Thank you for making this design. It looks great and I will soon start printing the parts to move the electronics off the printer in preparation for a case.

What is the reason to add the MOSFETs? I already upgraded to the MKS Gen L and had no issues connecting the bed and hotend directly to the board.

Mainly because of safety concerns. The screw-in-terminals of the MKS GEN L (or most other boards) are the weak spot, not the board itself. See https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet. I simply prefer the screw terminals where you can attach a safely crimped ring terminal.

Another reason is to offload the high current switching to a separate board that has a better mosfet with a larger heatsink to prevent the mosfets on the MKS Gen L from burning out. The issue isn't as bad with the MKS Gen L but the stock Creality board has mosfets fail a lot. With the external mosfet you just replace it if it fails ($5), rather than buying a new Gen L ($40).

@mo78 - I have been redesigning some of the panels over the past couple weeks, just printing out the 2nd to last one today, then will post another remix. I extended the front of the box a bit and added holes for switches, one to control the main power through a relay, the other to power on/off the Rasberry Pi, and an optional 3rd to turn off/on LED lighting. There are also 2 holes for potentiometers to adjust the fan speed inside the case and to control the LED's brightness. I'm remixing the Hero Me duct as well to add a small LED ring to shine light directly onto the part being printed and an LED strip along the top rail pointing down.

Another change I made was the 2 Ender3 PSU panels, I thickened them a bit to add a fan duct that exhausts the PSU fan out the back rather than it blowing directly onto the heated bed. Thomas Salander had a really interesting video recently showing how much a 40mm fan can reduce the bed temperature (up to 20 degrees lower) so I thought I would try out a new design since I have the box on the left side of the printer.

I still need to do the wiring for the relays but it shouldn't take too long, I'll post another remix with detailed instructions asap.


Thank you for posting the source files.... i have 4 different types of display and will model top fronts for them all... of course that is after i upgrade my 2012 vintage desktop some.....it was top of the line when I put it together, but now it is a bit dated....mainly the built in intel hd4000 off the i7 doesnt seem to want to run the Fusion 360 app without complaining and crashing randomly... so i need to get a dedicated video card to install... the rub being that it is an itx build the size of a shoe box and i have to find a short card that vents out the back that is supported by centos linux (my primary os) and windows...... or bite the bullet and just build a whole new system.....

At any rate, whatever i do I'll post the results and source back to you...

Thanks again,


Great work. Love the clean and functional design.
Already printed some of the parts, they print very nicely.
I can't find those mosfets in the US though.
Anyway you could publish a step/f3d version of the bottom panel so that I can remix it for my mosfets?

Hi Dralves, I just released the files. Have fun customizing!

nice! thank you!
will post the remixes once their done (still a bit of printing to do :))


I am thinking I will print this case for my Tevo Tornado and the Ender 3... about to put an enclosure around them both and I need to pull the electronics outside.

I don't see any provision for a display, I see your note in the description that you use an android phone for it. Would it be possible to add a display panel? Maybe a sloped wedge that is part of the top panel with a cutout for the selector knob?

The other thought I had was why aren't the MKS Gen L and Rpi turned 90 degrees? ... you could have the front fan blow and the back fan suck so you would have a wind tunnel through the case. If the mosfet board were stood on end you could stagger them and I don't thing it would take any more space...

Thank you for your feedback. There are a lot of improvements to be made, that is why it's stil work in progress. I don't own a display, except that from my ender 3 and I wanted it to be more "universal" and not an ender 3 case, so I left that out. But printing with the phone on top of the case is also not so great as I wanted it to be... What type of display would be a good solution? I assume a TFT32 or TFT35?

The orientation of both boards was not a specific design choice, except for the MKS Gen L. I wanted the front fan to blow directly onto the heatsinks of the stepper drivers. Then I angled it and introduced a few slots in the top, so that the air could move up and out. After that I simply reversed the idea for the rpi (which does not need as much cooling as the rest of the parts). The mosfets are oriented, so that the wires are directed out of the case. And the rear fan is actually sucking, so that the whole case is indeed a wind tunnel. It is not the most effective way of using the available space, but so far it works.

(One thing that actually bothers me is the side-mounted power connector. I will relocate that to the rear, so that the space on the side is free to put it directly next to an enclosure)

I am just using the stock displays on both printers..... i can look up the part numbers, or take measurements, or photos with a ruler along side....or i can model them in openscad for you.... i havent learned any of the better software yet....

The tevo display has a full size sd card reader on it

I looked into the different display options and I think it is the best to open up this design to all. In a first step I have released both top panels in Fusion 360 and STEP format, so you can edit them. After I've cleaned up my messy design in Fusion I will release the rest of the panels.

Excellent, gives me a reason to learn Fusion 360.

Just a note, I have read several threads about fusion360 files containing metadata that has personally identifiable information in them... I dunno if that is true, but if you are releasing files you should be aware

I have a TFT32, stock ender, and stock Tevo display and a 4th type I can't recall what size... I think it might be for the RPi ... which might be interesting ... a display on the RPi for direct interaction with that ... and a display on the printer... evil laugh, little finger to mouth, a MILLION possibilities.... Whatever I come up with I'll send back to you so you can massage it if needed and post with the rest of the project.

In the middle of printing this case at the moment and noticed, my printer could easily fit the spit panels as a whole. Could be worth considering adding the stls unsplit, without the parts for joining them together, for people with bigger printers to save a little material and printtime.

Also, would there be enough space in the case to switch the 80mm fans to 120mm? haven't printed those parts yet, and it would be cool to know, if I could easily modify the Design, because ive got spare 120mm fans and no 80mm ones.

Thanks for your feedback. Yes, those panels could be one part, but I designed them to be printed in small sessions, for those who don't want to leave their printers unattended. I will have a look into combining them.
The PSU doesn't have enough space for a bigger fan. The rear fan could theoretically be a bigger fan, but then the cable-slots have to be repositioned to the side panel. I don't know if you really need the fan on the rear side, if you are using a powerful fan at the front. I changed my front fan to a silent noctua and I think in that case the rear fan is needed to support the lower airflow of the noctua.

was just thinking it would be nice to have that option, but I don't know how much work it would be to actually combine the models and remove the tabs.

If I try without the side fan and there is not enough air, the worst that could happen is the internal Fan of the PSU ramps up to full speed right?

Noctua is also going in my Case. Love their fans, even if they are ugly as hell if you dont get the chromax line ;)

The fan on the side is actually a silent replacement for the PSU fan, so you have to use that. I use an arctic F8 which is ~5-7€ here in europe. I would not recommend leaving that one out, since it is controlled by the PSU and is running in my case from time to time, so I think the PSU would get too hot without it.

A little bit more explanation: The two PSU Side Panels from my design actually replaces the original cover of the PSU, where the fan is mounted. So you have to open the PSU and attach the open PSU to the side panels. That way, there is no internal fan of the PSU anymore.

aah ok, got it sorry, I Missed that part. thanks for the quick support.
I think it's not entirely clear from the instructions, you might want to update/emphasize that part, some people might not be comfortable opening their PSU ;)

You are right, I added a safety warning. Thanks.

Wow, nice work man, this looks amazing! I upgraded to the MKS + 2208's a few weeks ago as well but haven't made a case yet, this has a really nice clean look. I've been trying to find a good "electronics box" like this separate from the printer as I'm building an enclosure currently.

Is there any chance you could make a version for us non-pro users? The power supply is a bit thicker but otherwise very similar, here's a model of it in case you need dimensions:

Or I could post a remix of it if you'd be willing to post/email the project files, I don't mind making the changes (I use Inventor/Fusion360). Either way I'd really appreciate it!!


Ender-3 PSU dummy model

Thanks for your comment. Actually I am planning to adapt the design for the non-pro version too, cause a collegue asked who own a standard ender 3. I hope to get the PSU this week to get accurate dimensions myself, because the model you posted has clearly stated that it was done in a rush and it is absolutely necessary to model the part of the PSU which is attached to my design as accurate as possible. I‘ll keep you updated

Awesome! Thank you very much, looking forward to it! :)

So, I got the original PSU and will adapt my case to it at the weekend. The width and length are roughly the same, the height will also fit after redesigning, so that only both PSU-Side-Panels have to be changed. But I will have to redesign the PSU-fan cover, since there is no space for an 80mm fan. The two massive capacitors will only allow for a 60mm fan.

As requested, I just added the side panels for the stock ender 3.

I'm nearly done printing out all of the panels now but came across a couple of small issues... The mosfets I have are slightly smaller than the ones you installed, they looked very similar in the photo's you uploaded but they are 10.5mm shorter on both X and Y (from hole center to hole center). This is the listing for the one I purchased:

I am making a small countersunk adapter plate to attach this brand of mosfet, and also an adapter for a 50mm fan instead of 60mm (I have a few 50mm fans laying around) currently, I'll post them up once it's all printed out.

The other issue is very weird; When I import the "Side_Front_V1" into Simplify3d (or Cura) it is removing geometry below the screw tabs, but only some of the tabs. I opened the STL file in Microsoft 3D viewer and can confirm it is an issue with the mesh itself, not the slicer, see images below. I did not notice these issues until the print was 80% complete so just decided to let it finish and it turned out ok, but the tabs were very weak, 2 of them have already broken off.

I just went through all of the STL files to check for other models with that issue but couldn't find any, so it's limited to just that one panel.

I just uploaded a new version of the Side Front, which I double checked in Fusion and Cura. I don't know how this happened, cause it is one body of a component in fusion. Maybe something went wrong as I tried to rotate the components in fusion, so that the orientation of the parts is ready to print and fusion therefor lost a reference... Sorry, but many thanks for building my design and letting me know the issues!

Just a quick update, I finally received my XH connectors & crimper yesterday so I can get this finished on the weekend. I noticed I accidentally posted a make for this, I had started typing it out and adding a couple of photos but decided to cancel it since it was taking forever to get the parts I needed. I'll finish writing it all out on the weekend too. I decided to print the top panels using clear PETG with a honeycomb infill pattern, I thought it would look good with all of the various LED's flashing inside and it looks pretty good, might add some more LED's sometime.

One thing to note on the fans; I ordered an Arctic F12 and F8 12v fans but rather than using buck converters I just wired the two fans in series, that way each fan gets 12v from the 24v power supply, saves a bit of extra wiring. I'm going to mirror the side panel front and print another one to use rather than using the back one with the mosfet attachment points.

I'll add all these details to the make on the weekend.


Thanks for the update, that sounds great! I would love to see the finished case.
The wiring in series I would only recommend on two identical fans. In fact if you check the datasheets, the F12 is using 0,24A and the F8 0,16A. That corresponds to 50Ohm and 75Ohm, which divides your circuit into 9,6 and 14,4 Volts when used with 24V total Voltage. I don't think the overvoltage will immediately ruin a fan, but surely will shorten their lifespan (and will produce more noise...).

Hey again!

I finally have the case fully complete and uploaded a proper make for it with some pictures. Everything turned out great! I really like the glow from the LED's using the clear filament, so much so that I'm about to start printing out the front/back and side panels using that filament. It looks really cool in a dark room, I uploaded a couple (poorly focused, argh...) pictures to the make. I'm going to try using 10% or lower infill for the honeycomb pattern, they are plenty strong enough so it shouldn't be an issue, but will look better with the glow.

Thanks for pointing out my mistake with the fans in series, I completely forgot about that issue. I've undervolted fans in the past but they have always been the same size/model. I added in 2x 150ohm 2watt resistors (a bit overkill, but want to make sure they stay cool) to use up a couple of volts. Does that sound ok to you? I've made a few small circuits before but my understanding of Ohm's law in multi-device circuits isn't quite there yet. :)

A couple of things I would change with the design are:
-The power connector & switch panel. Moving it slightly higher, or moving it to the rear of the case would be preferable, I keep the box on the left side of the printer and it means the power cord runs across the base aluminum extrusions of the printer. If you place the box close by the cord will actually lift the box up from the rear as it rests on the extrusion. The back of the case would be better, but that would be a major change.
-The front panel warps out slightly on the bottom of the case. This may be down to my printer slightly over-extruding making the panel too large, not sure (though the other panels fit quite well), but as you can see from the image attached the front edge bows out a bit at the bottom. I think it would be beneficial to change the front panels fit to be the same as the rear panel where there is a lip at the top/bottom to hold it in place. Another option would be adding in a post to add a bolt but it would be way off center due to the fan being in the way.

I really love the case, it's an excellent design and makes wire management easy. I really appreciate you creating a version for the regular power supply, it is exactly what I hoped it would be!

Let me know if you need any more details or want a picture of something, and I will post some more pictures later today and also when the clear panels are installed soon.

Thanks again for everything!

Awesome! That looks really cool (typing this while searching for clear PETG here in Germany... ;-) )

I think your fans should work fine, I am not an expert in electronics either, but the resistors should reduce the voltage for the fans to a safe level.

Thanks for your input, in fact the side mounted mains connection is bothering me too. I already designed a rear mounted version and released them, but I could not print them yet, because I am printing parts for my enclosure at the moment.

I do not have problems with warping of the front panel but I see your idea with copying the design of the back panel. I don't know if the 120fan would still fit, but maybe I will design a modified version.

Thanks for your make!

No worries! It's all coming together very well but I'm running out of my white PETG roll lol, I have a couple more on order, hopefully they will arrive on Monday.

Thanks for the update, it looks great. Cheers!

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