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Hangtight

Creality CR10S Pro Hotend mount and Part Cooling + BLTouch mount

by Hangtight Mar 11, 2019
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Hi,

Great job !!

Would it be possible to have a version with the original 40mm nozzle fan ?

I've bought 7 different pieces of 5015 24v and none of them whants to turn...

Thanks

I'm looking into whether it's possible to improve the cooling over stock with the rather feeble original blower. It's highly unlikely that seven different blowers would fail to run. How are you connecting them?

I connect them directly on the board to be sure

Will this work with all stock parts?

Hi, there is a possibility to have original file of duct? I want to try to modify it to add two fan instead of one only.
Many thanks for your great design, the best ever for 10s pro

The duct is CFD analysed and optimised for a single 5015. The nozzle area would stall the flow of twin blowers, so it would be a waste of time trying to fit them.
There isn't enough space around the nozzle to fit the outlet area needed for twin blowers. Believe me, I've tried! They wouldn't offer any better cooling than a single blower on a well designed duct, as the flow would blast the heater block. The large outlet area required makes it impossible to focus the flow correctly.
Glad you're enjoying the design.

just like to say thank you

Can anybody tell me the stock probe offsets? I want to install this design but i cant remember the offsets after I changed the stock ones for a duct i have been using. I like the ability to view the nozzle more on this one.

Thank you in advance

Hey Hangtight, Do you have a stl for the EZabl mount that would work on the CR10S pro. I am running this set up but will be switching to the ezabl. I dont have my stock mount anymore so ill need to print a new one. Thanks

Check the remixes. I'm pretty sure there's one there.

Hello there,
props for the great design you got there.
Is there a parts list for the screws and nuts that are needed?

Comments deleted.

I needed to rotate the heatblock 90 degree. Cause my cables were so stiff. Are your cables flexible at the outside of the heatblock? Anyway mine works great. Mabi too much cooling.

I used to turn the heater in the heat block so the wires angled backwards and upwards about 30° before bending them carefully to point upwards.
You'll probably find you need to turn the cooling down 40-50% compared to the stock set up.

Okeey so I thought this switch was gonna be easy. But missing a few screws and m3 nuts. But could not for the love of god, fit the shroud. The heater and sensor cable had nowhere to go!!! So i rotated the heatblock 90 degree, then it worked goood! But I am wondering if I do something wrong or if it is suppose to be that way. Anybody who has yet fitted this and has some picture where they routed the cables? Doesnt matter for me anymore but still interested.

There's plenty of space between the shroud and the duct behind the part cooling blower.

are you still working on it ?

The design has been stable for a while, with plenty of purple of in the wild using it. I'm slowly going through all my designs making sure the information is up to date.

are you still working on this ? I like it !!

Comments deleted.

do you have a version for cr10s non-pro?

Creality Stock Hotend Mount & Part cooling with BLT & EZABL

Awesome design, Have printed the fan duct now, came out great in poly elixir filament. Just now printing the shroud. Waiting for my new fans to arrive, then I will mount. Cant wait. Thank you hangtight. Tried TIPPING you but thingyverse said it was a problem? Mabey you havent linked your paypal. Anyway Thank you!.

do you have a version for the cr-10s pro using a microswiss all metal hot end?

I've not been able to find a model of the MS hotend to check in the model to see if it fits. It should do, but a couldn't guarantee it.

it does fit with the micro swiss

Thank yo for the cool design Hangtight!
Got it up and running - works fine.
How much above the nozzle do you set the lower end of the air duct?

How did you print the air duct without internal support (which can't be removed later)?
Is bridging really working here?

The bridges are only 12mm or so. The stock part cooler will manage that no problem.

I was kinda upset because the base blt mount area was just not doing it for me. Not sure why I have a clone BLTouch but the connector on the rear and the wires just had no room to push the mount in. I finally had to grind clearance but it was not enough so I also had to rotate the bltouch so the connector was facing the side and then I was able to use the screw channel for the wires and because it was turned the connector no longer hit the back of the base.
Wish it was as clean as most here but it just was not. I do however like the simplicity of it and the ease at which its assembled after the bltouch was band aided. It would have been a fantastic job if the bltouch fit.

Put up some pics of the issue and I'll see what I can do to remedy the problem.

I tried the other day but it would not upload. It said it uploaded and it showed the name of the pics but they were grayed out and never uploaded. I got them this time. I have 2 other printers I want to use your mod on but I need to get the bltouch to fit first. I dont like Mickey Mouse engineering thats what I did to get this one to work. I rather get it right on the next 2. I appreciate if you can see what I am doing wrong.

That's not how it's supposed to be fitted to the main mount. Take a look at the images. The smaller groove lines up with the clamp bolt. The larger recess is so the BLTouch mount has two point contacts to the main mount preventing any rocking It's not a cable channel.

I guess you did not read my post. I know thats not how you intend it to go. Like I said its the only way I could get my bltouch to mount. I dont see your pics of how you have yours mounted only a 3d drawing that does not show wires no actual pics. If I had my bltouch in the position its supposed to be the connector on the rear hits the back wall even after I tried to make clearance. And there is no place for the wires to come up. If you look at an actual picture I added you will see the connector on the rear if turned as you intend it to go would hit the back wall and in doing so does not allow the touch to mount. And if you look again at the real pics you see that the wires if it was mounted as you intend have no place to go either. I posted because I am sure their are other people that have the same touch I have and that will also have issues. I thought you may be interested.

You just fit it with the connector facing forward. The issue was to keep the offsets the same between the inductive and the Touch sensors.

That could work too. I think if there was a little more clearance built into the mount in the back would not affect the distance and would allow this touch to fit. You have some on the top but it would need to be deeper but it would work. I am not good with CAD but I may try to fix it if I get a burst of energy one day. I do like this setup it is the best I have tried so far for ease of assembly except for my touch. I will try it with connector facing front. Sometime the easy things are lost when looking for the hard ones. I will try the easy fix and face it front. Thanks

I feel like the fool of the day. No one has said they had issues with mounting the bltouch but this mount does not work for me. I mount the bltouch to the mount just fine but there is no clearance for the wires or the small connector on the back side of the bltouch when you push the mount into the main body. I even tried to grind clearance but I would have to grind all the plastic away to get it to a point where it would work. What have I done wrong? I was never good at legos when I was young, well they did not have them but I can put a round block in a round hole and this round hole just aint cutting it. I turned the bltouch so the back is facing front and then I can use the screw slot to bring the wires thru. This is the only way I can get the wires in by using the screw slot. It has to be this way so the connector does not hit
tried to upload pics but ti would not upload.

Anybody made the water blow test to see the real air distribution?

The water test will only show the high pressure areas, but smoke tests show that the actual flow is pretty much identical to the simulation.

any idea if or where i can get adapter to use this build with stock 4020 for duct?

The 4020 moves plenty of air but doesn't generate the static pressure a duct/ nozzle design like this requires.

Printed out fine, except I find the part cooling ducks too far forward of the nozzle, not centered...should be back 1/2" ?

That's exactly where they should be.

OK ty hangtight, just thought it was weird....great job!!!

Any chance you can provide the file for the X-carriage for the CR10s Pro in your pictures? I cant find it anywhere.

Sure. This was modeled from a STL I found, and then some brave soul printed out the mount and checked it against an actual machine, but it seems to fit fine. What does format would work for you?

any format that can be opened by Freecad of Fusion 360, I can convert almost anything into a solid object, and Thanks!

What is the recommended piece position to start the print?

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The parts are already in the correct orientation for printing.

Hi, the fan for the part is the stock radial fan? Thanks

No. This uses a 5015 which is far better suited to generating the static pressure required.

I think I may be missing a step. Have the upgraded fans but stock sensor on the pro. I can get the plate and all to mount but how does the sensor lock down. Im guessing a small nut to fit in that hole or does it use factory screws. Thanks!

Edit: Went by the hardware store and found an allen head screw that works for the sensor to lock it in and got some longer screws fro the front fan but I couldn't find a nut that was small enough to fit in the spaces provided so I am not sure what was used to make this work for folks. Had to revert everything back to stock setup for now

The slots are sized for standard M3 nuts.

This looks like the cleanest designs i've seen for the 5015 and BL Touch. Just starting out in printing, what are you printing these with ABS or PLA

Hello I just want to say you have the best design of this system of all the other ones.. I have tried 3 different other designs of the part cooling and it's very complicated to install and change anything. I had so much problems.. with measurements and also the sensor was not straight. for Printing it was messy and cannot print without supports. Your design however very well made and well thought out. Thank you ! I will post pictures soon.

Glad you like it. I look forward to your pictures.

Hello mate thanks so much i have done the printing and installation please take a look. love your design ! once again appreciated I was about to throw all the hotend coolings away and going back to the stock setup when I found yours and decided to give it a try.

Hi there, thanks for the very interesting design. Any chance of getting iges, step or Solidworks models of these parts?

If you're intending to remix it, that can be arranged. What did you have in mind?

I'm designing (updating actually) a printer and am planning on using the Creality hot end. Your design lends itself well, takes care of the fans and BLTouch details. It will make the process more consistent and easier to incorporate if I'm using actual cad models, not converted STLs.

I may at some point post the entire design, probably over on Openbuilds.com. This is NOT a commercial venture, just hobby and educational.

If I do make worthy changes or updates to your work, I'll be happy to post them as a remix.

Thanks for the reply.
Neil

There are honestly much better choices than the 10S PRO hotend. Have you considered a V6? Quality clones are cheap from Trianglelabs, and I have similar mounts for J head hotends.

Thanks for the feedback. I've used the V6 almost exclusively on several printers, this is an experimental machine that I'm building up. As much as I admire the V6, my CR10s-Pro produces the best print quality I've ever seen, surpassing all of my V6 machines. I want to make a head-to-head comparison (no pun intended), this seemed a good way to do it.

I look forward to seeing your results. :)

Hi again --

The printer is now designed, built and running. Very good results.

I did modify your design just a bit to facilitate mounting, but it's fundamentally the same.

Here is a link to the full thing on Openbuilds.com:

https://openbuilds.com/builds/dash-x-3d-printer-innovative-design.8551/

Many thanks.

Neil

It's so cool to see this taking on a life of it's own. I'm just starting on the design on my own Core XY. Look forward to seeing more of your design.

Comments deleted.

Any need to modify the firmware x-y probe offset or can it be directly installed?
Thank you for the design!

The Probe is in the stock location.

is it compatible with Microswiss hotend?

I'm interested too. If you get it, please let me know

Worked for me. I did have to rotate the block around to make it work though.

When you say you had to rotate the block, is that turn it 180 degrees or just loosen it and pivot it a little untill it lined up good?