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Parametric Hero Me Dual 5015 Duct

by acwest Mar 10, 2019
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Thanks so much for this perfect duct. I have printed this in ABS and I also bought two Sunon 5015 blowers.
These two blowers are 12V so I connected them through a buck converter. One problem I now discovered was
that I can't control the fan speed (I think it's called PWM), probably because of the buck converter.

My question is, can I remove the buck converter and instead connect these two blowers in series (12V+12V=24V), and
in that way be able to control the fan speed again? I dare not try until some technical expert confirms that this is totally okay. :-)

As long as the two fans are essentially identical, you should be able to run two in series with 24 volts

I just bought them at the same time from these sellers:
I think they are serious and don't sell chinese crap. :-)

Well Simon is Chinese I believe :p

I believe you should be able to connect them in series, though I believe it may reduce the longevity.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Well, almost everything is made in China, but you understand what I mean. :-)
Sunon (Taiwanese brand) is a quality brand, and they are very quiet.
I will test this soon, and come back here with the result.

Sunon* not Simon

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Here is an image of the original "Hero Me for the CR-10s Pro" and this one side by side. The ducts are longer on the original.

Thank you, that helps. As far as I can tell, the design the way it is should work, although the way the current base design is built, the CR10S Pro nozzle is a couple of millimetres closer to the back plate than the CR10 and Ender 3, but I designed room into it for that case. As you have probably noticed, a feature of the new nozzle design is a fairly aggressive angle of the end of the nozzle, this was to eliminate a problem with the original duct where the two air streams would basically cancel each other out and leave a stagnant pool of air around the nozzle. I am attaching my design screen-shot, which show the duct on a CR10S Pro. There is a grey shadow of the Ender 3 nozzle position, but you will see the lines representing the centre line of the nozzles, projecting to meet almost directly below the nozzle. I believe the next version of the base will re-position this so it aligns more closely across different machines.

Can someone please clarify what the 90 degree orientation is. My understanding is that the 45 degree orientation is with the fins and connector flat on the surface...but if I rotate it 45 degrees more than that (to reach 90 degree rotation on the x axis) I get something crazy looking which looks like it would require a tremendous amount of support.

I tried posting this earlier, but it seems to have failed. Here are screenshots of the two orientations. I am still undecided as to which is better...

Oh wow! That would be a negative 90 (-90) rotation in my slicer. Thanks! Imma try it right away.

Now with your latest version, this is definitely the best Dual 5015 mount for the Hero Me. Thanks! Only gripe I have (with all versions) is that the screw holes in the fins don't have enough "meat" and they strip quick and easy eventually causing the fan to rattle against the fin. Instead of (or in addition to) having that small circle that slots into the fan's mounting hole, can you have a version with more "meat" on the outside of the fan (both facing "inwards" if you are looking at the front). Perhaps it could be semi-conical (think "sideways volcano") so it could print without supports. Could easily get 3-4mm extra for the screws to bite into that way. Is that at all clear? :)

I had problems with my earlier prints from using too cool a temperature, making it too brittle, which caused those holes to break. My quick fix was the use longer screws and add nuts... I will see what I can do about beefing them up, though

Yeah, that has been my solution as well. Figured out that solution all of 15 minutes after posting once I realized that what I was trying to describe was...basically...a nut. :p

For what it's worth, I didn't have this problem nearly as much with the original design, so maybe it's just a matter of reducing the diameter of the screw hole by a tenth or two and counting on the screw to "tap" slightly beefier threads. But since there's plenty of room in this design for the longer screw and nut, honestly, I like that solution just as well if not better.

Great design. I've successfully printed in the 90 degree orientation and it came out much better than 45 degree.

One potential issue I can see is the nozzle is 18mm from the left duct but only 15mm from the right.

Why do you think that is and do you think it will cause issues with the part cooling?

Stock Ender 3 Pro.

EDIT: Looking at my own photo I can see the Hero Me base is too close to the right side of the hot end. Looks like I need to adjust that.

That's interesting, now I have to measure mine to see. Seems like it might be an issue with the base, I've noticed that mine is spaced slightly different than what it should be vertically. There is a new version of the base in the works that may help with these issues, too.
I'm glad to hear that the 90 degree orientation works

It was my Hero Me base. I loosened the screws, twisted anti-clockwise, re-tightened and all is good.

There's now only 1mm difference between each side.

I have noticed that when sliding the duct down the tab fouls the nut to the left of the hot end which pushes the duct frame away from the base. That would explain the 1mm difference.

Do you have that issue also? I'll maybe try shaving off a small amount where it fouls the nut.

EDIT: Shaved a little off the bottom of the tab/arm and everything fits perfectly plus the nozzle is now dead centre :)

I have a cutout for that in the design, but I think I need to make it a little bigger...

ductLevel_1_8 - Why do I need and where to put?

the ductLevel models are used as a tool to set the height if the duct off the bed when first attaching it to the base. I attach the duct with the bolts loosened slightly, lower the nozzle until it touches the bed, then slide the level model in around the nozzle with the flat part under the duct. I then lower the duct until it is touching the surface of the levelling tool, and tighten the bolts. I usually use the 1.6mm version, but there is no strong reason for it, and I think I am slightly higher than that with my latest version.
You don't need the tool, but it makes it much easier to adjust the height

as the model opened, so it printed - the fastenings not only of the fans but also of the construction itself eventually broke down, I will try your orientation.
Question: what prevents to make fasteners fans thicker?
I also constantly broke the bottom “well” under the screw at the plug (which secures the frame to the “X” guide) - in different models (just a boot and with different additional fastenings).

print quality compared to Petsfang?

printed twice and thin fan holders (v17 with fins) broke twice - the last time it broke already during printing ...
In comparison with Petsfang what is better to use?

What orientation did you use to print it? I normally print it with the flat part of the fan mounts and cross-brace down against the bed, in that orientation the small rails that are screwed to the base are at a 45 degree angle. I have found that in general, prints are brittle if they are printed at too low a temperature, I always print a temperature tower after any major changes or when I try a new filament, and use the coolest temperature that is not brittle.

Still no luck. From 3 of them, I notice that they are only bend or twist at the middle bar other part are still in shape. The last one proved that it is not about bed temp because there is only support that touch the bed.

This make me think, it must be from Infill and wall, maybe 50% infill is too much or about it's pattern or both. Next time I will try test print only the bar with different infill and number of wall setting.

And printed in this orientation make the fan support arms very brittle.

That's a good point, how many walls are you using? I think I am on 5 now

I use 4 walls.
The Temp tower with 0 infill still straight.

There is definitely something wonky with your setup, but I have no idea what. I have no idea how I would even be able to duplicate that bend you get even if I wanted to. I have 5 walls, 1mm top and bottom, usually 25% infill. I presume you aren't printing with ninjaflex :-D

how do you set your fan speed?

It's a setting in the slicer, like the extruder temperature. In Cura it's set in the material properties

sorry, my bad english. What is your fan speed setting?
I forget to change it at first.
Now I set it to Max at 30%, start the fans at layer 3.

I am currently using 40%, I did temperature towers at different fan speeds to find the best combination. It also helps to replace the thermal klapton tape on the hot end with a silicon sock

Thank you. My Ender5 came with silicone sock. Today I tried print your V13_fins with 20% gyroid infill and result is pretty good. I will install it and print the original one to see, can it still in shape after use.

TaMoNe - Did you print it orientated as shown in your pic?

Ok thanks. Did you have any bridging issues here?

No, I don't think there are any problem there, it is not completely flat.

how to connect 2 fans 5015 (as I understand it, one is normal for a heater and two for blowing material), but initially there is only one fan for blowing material, how to connect the second (where to connect the wires)

I have a Petsfang Duc and Ender 3 Pro (with a standard fan). Now I purchased two 5015 - I want to print Petsfang Duc for 5015. But I found Hero Me Fanduct now I don’t know which one to print from them. What's better? Also, you and Petsfang have a version for one 5015 and two - which is better (I just start typing, I understand very little)

I have had the most success printing it oriented a in number 2. There is another orientation that should work, where the mount arms with the slots in them are flat against the print surface (rotated 45 degrees from #1) but I had problems printing it. Others have had success that way, though.
Did you do a temperature tower?

I have an idea for Ender5 machine. Is it possible to raise the fan part up a bit (about 10-12mm.) to make it higher than the front frame?

Yes, I did. The lowest temperature that still strong is @190C. But today I printed your V.13_fins @210C because I want to try heat treatment method first. I think it could be from how I place that bar on heated bed and took it off to soon. If it still bending I will reprint it with lower temp.

Look at how bad the original dual fan duct bending in the picture, I need to tied it to the cable pole to prevent the nozzle tip knocking the printing part lol.

The heat treatment method will be very tricky for this, because dimensional accuracy is so important. If you can get it right it would be most excellent, though.
Looking at your temperature tower, I would use 195, and it might be worth trying a lower bed temperature. I use 50 for mine, as it improved the quality on lower layers, but results vary a lot... You might want to try doing a few test prints at different bed temperatures, it might make a difference. I use benchy for that test, I am building up a very impressive fleet of the useless little boats :-)

We will see it tomorow if it work or not.

It looks pretty good, so far. You might want to try increasing your retraction, some of that stringing isn't on the supports.

Never had this before, I think because "limit support retractions" option. I just lost all my profiles from Cura error and I never did a backup. After reinstall I download Chep's profile to try.

Which one is correct orientation? First time I placed it like in #2 and it bend, so this time I will try in #1.

I am experimenting with printing this with the flats of the rear rails against the bed. It may improve the strength (although I haven't had problems with that) and it definitely reduces the amount of support needed

This is how I printed mine a few weeks ago, no issues with it other then I printed the one without fins. But I am currently printing one with fins now. v10.

Can you send me pictures, or even better a video of that? I can probably do something about ir

Thank you for your respond. I just took it of because the Hero me base just broke, need to install the stock part and prinit new base. But these pictures could tell you what happen. Tomorow when the new base is done I can post some more pics and measurement.

How close does the stock cover get to the frame at the front?

24 m.m. from the front for stock cover.
65 m.m. from the mounting plate.

Try the V13, it should help. I am still looking at doing a version that will work on your ender 5, though

Thank you so much for your great support. I will print it tomorow.

What temperature are you printing at? I generally recommend doing a temperature tower, and printing at the coolest temperature that isn't brittle. I don't know if it will help, but it might

I printed at 210C. Thanks for suggestion about temp tower, I will try it.

Great design, I like it a lot. Unfortunately for me as Ender 5 owner, After I printed this and install in on my printer, I cannot print bed leveling pattern. The fan wil hit the front frame when it move to the very front of the bed :(

Hi, i like the Design but noticed something, not sure if intentional or not. The ends of the "tubes" do not properly aligned with the nozzle position on my printer (Cr10 clone). They are off about 4-5 mm to the front. I compared it to the original Hero Me duct and this difference is also noticable in the STL. I used the V11 with fins.
Also i noticed the Nozzle visibilty from the front is quite obscured due to the lower crossbar. This could be improved by rising said bar up so it almost touches the HeroMe Base.
All in all i really appreciate your effort and time to do this, thank you!

Great design!
Mediaman's design seems controversial to me, cause the input of the left blower is almost completely blocked.
And your version is a lot better with this. I'll print your version as soon as I get my 5015 blowers from the post office.

If you add a mount for the LED strip, I think the design will be almost perfect

Can you share the scad file? I only see STL files in the download.
I bought a CR10s microswiss accidentally instead of a CR10, so I will need to make some adjustments for the extra lenght of the hotend.

Don't worry about code being ugly, what you have done so far is awesome. Put it on Github so others can fork and help to improve the code quality!
If you don't want to do that (yet), could you share them privately?

Its actually on gitlab right now, I keep most of my code there. I can add you to the repo. I am going to make it public once I figure out the licensing on some of the embedded STL's I have in the file

Love all the work that went into this, especially the SimScale analysis which caught my attention immediately. Unfortunately, my 5015 fans' mounting holes don't quite match up with the ones on these support arms. I'm sure my fans are just out of the norm, but the tolerance on this design is extremely low. Is there any way you'd be willing to provide the CAD (I assume f3d?) file for v11 with fins?

Can you please add wall/support here to version V9 fin

since it bended after 5 minutes of work

Do you have a picture of how it bent? I've printed dozens of these in various versions, and that is the one area I've never had a failure. Maybe try printing it with a higher infill percentage? Mine always come out to have pretty much no flex at all across the brace, especially considering it is also bolted to the base on both sides. IA picture would definitely help me see what went wrong...

Attached, thx for help and yes it 50% infill

The mounting posts are bolted down into the base? That's very odd, there shouldn't even be any load causing it to bend like that. I will stiffen up the cross brace for you, I should be doing an updated version soon

Thanks will wait update. Yes its bolted down into the base

I still have no idea how you got it to bend like that, but I have modified the design to increase the stiffness of the brace. I have also made some small adjustments in the nozzle position.
The new version is V11, here is a link to the STL with fins, which is what I am using...

I'm sort of curious what bed temperature you are using, as that is about the only thing I can think of that would result in that much distortion of the shape...

Mine bending too, at the same point. When installed, it looks like the left blower bend out and vibrate. My bed temp is 60.

Which version are you printing? I'm really curious how this is happening, none of mine have done that at all. The V13 version (which I haven't uploaded yet, but am now printing with) should be better, I moved the brace arm further up, which should help, but I haven't had any tendency to flex at all.
What temperature and material are you using, and what infill percentage (and pattern) are you using? Which orientation did you use?

I printed V.11 fin with esun PLA+ layer = 0.12, 4 walls, 50% triangle pattern infill, speed 50.
I think it not your fault because after that, I printed the original Hero me dual 5015 and it bendind at the same spot :(

Maybe, when you release V13, I will redesign by stuff the bar it with a long screw

Comments deleted.

can you add bltouch and gauge mounts please?

This goes with the base Gaabryel posted, I use the BLTouch with mine. Turns out the clearance issues were not actually a problem. I AM working on an update to deal with the problem that various hotends have the nozzle in slightly different positions, but as it currently stands, this works well for a stock Ender 3.

BL Touch will be connected to the base.
Look here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917

Hero Me Gen3 - CR-10/S Ender 3/Pro/5 OEM Hot-end

can i use this whit the ender 3 microswiss hotend and than the dual 5015 witch one do i have to print

I have improved the positioning of the nozzle to make it work better with the Microswiss. You should use the V11 version: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:6465744

I have heard that there is a height problem with the Microswiss, I am working on that now, I should have something soon

Can you please upload some screenshot with the orientation on the bed and where supports should be? I want to print to and I will need this info.
Thank you.

This orients with the flat front pieces of the fan mount, the cross-brace, and the fins all flat on the bed. Cura put in more supports than it needs, but it definitely needs supports under the nozzles where they project horizontally...

Are you planning on a single 5015 or single 4010 version?

I will definitely do some single-fan versions of this duct, it now works well enough that one fan should be more than sufficient. I've already got a plan for the routing it, the 45 degree angle I am usin should allow for putting a sing fan across the front of the hot-end cooling fan

I havent gotten the chance to print this file yet, but would you be interested in adding a spot for a light strip in the future. I would really love that

Once I am done optimising the airflow, I will be looking at adding in accessories to my code. A light strip would definitely be useful

As promised, here is the pics. Thank you, I'm able to go Dual 5015 Fan Ducts again. See pics.

Comments deleted.

That looks excellent, it looks like the 45 degree angle is just enough to clear the motor

Exactly what I need for my dual 5015 Fan, Hero Me with Barasuba Direct Drive. I had to remove the left 5015 fan and with this tilted fan duct I could put it back on. Gonna try this after printing this weekend and will provide a picture.

Has this worked for you? I have a basaraba kit, too, and the gen3 hero me dual fan duct doesn't fit because the motor is left of center.
Whoops, I see you posted a second time. I'll give this a shot, too. It looks like a pretty tight fit, but maybe I can file a half mm off the top of the blower housing...

I've got a newer version that is set up so it should work for you, I will upload it when I get home

Wow! That is a lot of work to recreate the ducts from scratch in code! But now cool stuff can be done. Yes, I have also more than maxed out TinkerCADs ability to handle these parts, and they take forever to load to edit. TinkerCAD STLs as you have pointed out do not clean up well. I can make a version of the Hero Me Base that has mounting holes for the front pegs. I believe that it will need it based upon my experience with my original dual 5015 duct mounted with fans, it is heavy in the front and if the screws in the back are not really tight, it can vibrate out of position.

I took a look at your new nozzle, and while I didn't copy your changes exactly, I have made similar changes to mine. I can also optionally add the fins. I uploaded an STL of just the lower section of the duct including the fins for you to take a look at.
I am going to change the bottoms of the mounts, as they look like they could cause problems printing it, and mine are much cruder than yours, then I am going to print out versions both with and without fins, and compare them