Thingiverse is currently experiencing issues related to search. We are currently investigating. Thanks for your patience.

Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

FedorSosnin

Mechanical Keyboard - SiCK-68

by FedorSosnin Mar 11, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

For the hardware, do you need to buy each one or just one?

Comments deleted.

Hello! I have finished wiring up the keyboard, but am having trouble. I was able to flash the .hex to the board, and when I go to test it, only the left-most column works (Esc, Tab, Caps, Shift, Ctrl). All other keys are not registering. I've checked all solder joints on the switches and the board and feel everything is connected solidly. Hoping you could put a second set of eyes on it, and maybe give me some suggestions? Is it safe to assume my problem is in Column 1, because everything to the right of Column 0 doesn't work?

I've also tested a different USB cable, and toggled "strobe_cols" to both True and False with same results each way. Also replaced the Column cable for column "1". Should I replace all Diodes in the column next? Or possibly replace all switches in this column next?

I replaced all diodes and switches in Column 1, along with the solid core wire again, and still have the same problem. I'm really stumped at this point and appreciate any help or suggestions you can give.

Hmm. Wiring looks ok from what I can see. Make sure you are selecting the right firmware in step 11. I'll keep looking and thinking.

Thank you! I am sure I'm selecting the correct firmware, diodes are all in the same direction, solder joints look good. At this point I'm thinking I might replace the Fake Teensy with a real Teensy.

Hmm. Try to solder any non working row to the working pin and see if that new row starts to work.

Good suggestion. After testing this, it is not the board. Swapped Column 0 and Column 1 wires on the teensy, and now ESC registers as 1, Tab is Q, Caps is A, etc.

Nice. That’s good. Ok so it’s the firmware. I try to flash it again and see what happens. Also make sure triple check the wiring diagram to make sure your rows and columns go to the right pins. But it’s most likely something off the firmware. Try to delete your files, redownload and start from scratch. Maybe a reflash is all you need.

I've figured it out! And I feel so foolish for not noticing it before. You can see the problem in picture 0-7 I uploaded. I soldered the Diode connection wires (that go to the Teensy) to the wrong side of the diode. Kicking myself real hard right not. Thank you so much for your quick responses and helping me troubleshoot this!

How awesome! Glad you found the issue. Enjoy your new keyboard that YOU build! :)

Good afternoon, Ive printed and wired everything in place and Im getting no outputs
I tested every diode and everything checks out in terms of wiring, I have also tried to switch the "strobe_cols" and that didnt work. what else is there to do?

No output on any keys is usually either a typo or wrong file being uploaded or a simple wiring issue. Shoot me a photo of the wiring. Maybe a second pair of eyes will help.

While you load up the larger photos, check to make sure you are uploading the Sick-68 firmware and not the tada68 firmware.

How would you know if your downloading the Sick-68 firmware instead of the tada68 firmware

If you follow the steps in the how-to doc, on step 11, be sure to select SICK-68 instead of TADA68.

Right on step 11 its "Name the file "SiCK-68v1.hex" and save it to a convient location by clicking "Save"" which im positive I did.

So today I had only a few keys work, For example F would do a a line of keys such as 8,I,k,<. I check the wires to see if they line up to the schematic and they do. Im not sure what this tells me.
The only keys that gave me an output were F,H,J,K,L,;
after reprogramming it Ive lost these outputs

I would delete all the firmware files from your machine and try to follow the steps again to flash new firmware onto the teensy. If that does work, I would swap a few row wires and see if the other ports on the teensy are returning key presses like your row 8, I, k,<, is.

One quarter to print and I am done, I hope I will be receiving all the hardware on Monday and start assembling.
Thanks !

Beautiful filament! These will work: https://amzn.to/34y7bFP. I got mine at a local hardware store for around the same price. Any "6-32x 1/2” Flat Head, Countersunk, Machine Screw" will work. I've used alen keyed screws for customer boards in the past.

Thanks, I finally found some Allen head screws that will work and I will add metal inserts if I end up opening the keyboard frequently ;), I cannot wait putting it all together ... I started looking into QMK as I do not own a pc to use easyAVR, and it looks like I still have a lot of work ahead !
Thank you very much for this design and for being so helpful/responsive !

No problem. Feel free to ask any questions as you work on it. QMK is great once you wrap your head around it. Plus the LED controls for backlighting via RGB strip is great. Looking forward to following your build. :)

Finally received my switches !
I will post a make when I am finished !

Wow that filament and print in general is just gorgeous! Which filament is that?

The filament is Filamentum PLA Extrafill Vertigo Grey, it prints so easily ! I can finally get reproducible prints settings and a stable profile for my i3 clone. The ironing option in Cura really does a good job to get very smooth top layer !
i realise that with these colours it is kind of an inverted marble :D

Okay so, I built the keyboard. Soldered it up and everything. I've continuity checked it all with a multimeter and it's fine. I've programmed the teensy and that is fine. But nothing is working!! Any idea what I should do?

Nice Congrats. I would check to make sure your diodes are facing the same direction. If they are, check is the "strobe_cols" setting in the SiCK-68.py file. If it's set to FALSE, set it to TRUE, save and try again. Or TRUE to FALSE.

This is a setting for the direction of the diodes. If none of the keys are working, it could just be that EasyAVR is expecting them to be in the other direction. Easy change. Let's start there.

Okay, I realised I made an extremely silly mistake. I was uploading the TADA-68 keyboard firmware by accident! That's fixed now, I have the keyboard recognised and working. My only problem now is that I have EXTREME ghosting on the spacebar, and some of the keys don't even work! Here's an example of using it:

123456 7 890`qwertuiop[#ASDFGJKL;'
zxCVB N M , ./FCVDFFGDXCV

Update: now the spacebar doesn't even respond. What do you suggest?

Thank you very much for being so helpful and active, it's much appreciated! And thank's for making these files and this guide. I would never have thought about making a keyboard otherwise :)

Cheers,
Jamie

P.S. I intend to post a make when it is complete!

No problem. When I first saw that you could make a keyboard I was just confused. But the Morse I researched the more fun it seemed. Now I’m addicted. Lol.

Hmm. That’s a new one. It’s gotta be one of two things. A small wiring/soldering issue or firmware. If some keys are working, then I assume it’s wiring. Can you take a picture of the back woth your wiring. I can take a glance and see if a second pair of eyes helps.

Okay so update: I'm currently typing this with the new keyboard which I'm so excited about! Sadly, the only key that does not currently work is the function key (I have re soldered it twice but nothing has changed).

The keys which did not work I marked with a black sharpie, and it turns out the vertical wire had broken within the insulation so I had to replace that.

Also, the spacebar problem was down to the tiny bits of the stabilizers being the wrong way round, so it kept sticking in place! It will take some time to get used to the layout but I'm loving using it already, thank you so much for uploading this guide and for your help and fast responses!

When the function key is fixed, I'll take some photos and upload a make, including some of the troubleshooting I have gone through.
Here are some pictures of the internals you asked for anyways:

Just got back from lunch to see your messages. Gotta feel awesome to have found and fixed the issues! Props. I have a feeling a similar issue is happening with the fn key. However, see if you can double check the software and make sure you have it set up correctly with the fn key in the right place and also the 2nd layer keys so you can test. For example set the top row of numbers to F1-F12 and test that way. Maybe its functional just has nothing set.

So, I played about with the first layer as nothing was set, and sorted out all the function keys. However, even after flashing it to the teensy they did not register. I may not have done this correctly in the firmware and was wondering if, when you get the chance, you could help me set this up?
Also I resoldered the fn key twice and even replaced the switch, and haven't seen any improvements! It's frustrating because every other key works.

Update: I remapped the 1,2,3&4 keys to asdf respectively on the fn layer and they work just fine. So the fn key works but I cannot use the actual f1, f2, etc. keys themselves. I will continue to play with the firmware and see what I can do! I'll update you on the progress and upload my new firmware to the "make":)

Update 2: Everything works! I've played around with the first layer to get it working as I would like it, and have mapped the function keys to their respective numbers. Now it has completely replaced my old keyboard and I will be posting a make. I hope my solutions to problems will help future makers.

Awwwwww yeahhh! Thank you for posting the fix and good job hunting it down and resolving it. :) Enjoy your new Sick-68 that you made from scratch!

As a note, what made mine much better is filling the case with drawer liner to reduce the hollow sound and 0-rings on the keys. Lubing the stabs goes a long way to make the keyboard feel premium as well. ;)

I may do that at some point, but for now I'm happy with it as it is :) Just posted the make too if you're interested in seeing how it has turned out. Cheers!

I'm very interested. Thank you. :)

Comments deleted.

Awesome file! Could you also post a non-split version?

just put the 2 split parts next to each other and slice as one object

Yep. That's literally what I would do. :)

What type of wire should I buy for soldering it all together? Thanks :)

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Something like this would work: https://amzn.to/2W11WuC

Just make sure whatever you buy ends up being "Solid Core". Otherwise, it will be much harder to deal with.

Comments deleted.

Can you add the files for the raised lettering? I printed my components, but the letters really get lost without the inserts.

Since they didn't reply to this, I went ahead and made a "remix" here for the letters in case you're interested.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3985125

SiCK-68 Separated Letters Remix

Just liked it. Good job on a quick fix while I was away. :)

Thanks! I guess you could just do a filament color change @ 10mm if you just wanted them raised too like nulla8 did in his make. https://www.thingiverse.com/make:723217

Mechanical Keyboard - SiCK-68
by nulla8

Yessir. That is how I did it on mine. I have however run into issues doing that as well. That is why I went for the inset version.

Do you need to buy capse, or are the files in here?

Keycaps? I have the files included for the keycaps you would need to print due to their non standard size. Otherwise, you should be able to use any keycaps you would like.

Great work, and thank you for sharing!

Is it possible to use function keys by pressing a key+numbers? I would like to make one for work, but sometimes need to use function keys (top row "F" keys).

Thank you! You are welcome.

Oh for sure. That is how I have mine set up. Along with volume and other media controls on the keys on the right site of the board. In the software, you can create "layers". A layer is clean slate of keys when holding FN. So, you can set any key to any function, macro, or shortcut even. There are many layers and very little limits. :)

Awesome! Thanks for confirming that! Going to order parts soon, and take a stab at making it. I'll be sure to post some pics when complete!

Can I using cherry stabilizer? is it fit?

No. This was designed around Costar stabs. I will be making another version with cherry stabs but that is distant at the moment.

If you plan to make a new version, please make each side screwable together. Maybe a nut and a scew in a hole on the bottom would be enough

Waiting for cherry stabs version. Costar stabs are rubbish

Is it work if I use an STM32? Actually, I'm starting in this world of electronic things. Maybe I'm very ambitious with this project.
Thanks

Maybe. Im just not familiar. With a Teensy, you get an extremely user friendly boot loader and software for uploading hex files and it really is a streamlined processes for a keyboard with this many keys. Anything else would require much more work on an already relatively complex project.

Any workaround to use cherry stand? Costair are almost impossibie to find in Europe

I (as European) got them from Aliexpress within a week (we don't have eBay in the Netherlands). Maybe this works for you too

Not yet, I just havent had the time. You should be able to get some from eBay pretty easily. Especially if you get some from China.

Any working configuration for QMK firmware ?
I'm able to use all keys except the space, because the space is reconized al column 6 and not as column 3, in the keymap.

I use QMK for my other board with LEDs but I do not have a DIY as its quite a bit more complicated. (from what I remember). With that said, your spacebar should be wired up to the 6th column. So that part seems correct.

Do you need any special app to extract the contents of the rar file?

You can download a free app such as WinZip or WinRar that can get that open for you. Plenty of small but useful freeware out there.

ok thank you just a few more things to do to get this working

I got that marble filament and it printed one part. Looks fantastic, but now it just jams my printer. Any suggestions working with this filament? I've never had problems like this before. I've cleaned my nozzle 3 times now. It just jams in the first 10 minutes of my print.

As @schneidp20 said below, you might have to raise that temperature up some. I beleive I printed the marble at around 210 with no clogs.

Did you try jacking up the temp on the hot-end? I've been eyeing the marble filament too. It looks fantastic.

Comments deleted.

Awesome project, ive already printed 4 keyboard
But ive got some issues:

  1. Teensy slot is way too tight, the teensy doesnt fit at all. Any idea on how to increase the slot on an already printed part?
  2. Looks like there isnt enough free space to keep the teensy mounted to the bottom and the wired top placed near the bottom on the desk (i hope you understand what i mean), such long cables wont fit inside the case. Any idea on how to wire the teensy easily?

Thank you! Sorry to hear about the tight fit. I haven't had that issue out of all the keebs I've printed. There must be some variance in the way our printers are calibrated. I would take a small file or exacto knife and see if you can make the slit a little larger. A bit of heat to the blade might help.

As for wiring, I would take a look at my pictures. You can always right click on them, open in a different window or tab and they will open in full size. That will give you a good visual for what to do.

I've shoved my snips, or anything thick with a blue will work, into the teensy gap and wiggled it around. Tight fit but it now goes in perfectly!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you for the quick response.
I've wired like you, but i have some issues. In example, only the first 2-3 columns of each rows are working.
If the issue is with the connection to the promicro, no columns would work. If the issue is with the resistance soldered in the opposite way (this is not the case), no columns would work.

Hmm. I dont think this will work in the same way with a pro micro because of the amount of pins available. Otherwise, I would check the layout in the software, maybe there is a small difference somewhere in the setup that is causing only some of the keys to function. Also be sure to check the direction of your diodes. Make sure they are facing the same way.

Sorry, it was a typo, i'm using a teensy 2.0
Diodes are all facing at the same way (from the switch to the teensy, like your pictures)

I just got everything to do it and I was wondering if it would be possible to make it have backlight because I accidentally ordered keys that are supposed to be backlit (the lettering is clear).
I just need to print everything but my printer hasn't been working since I order everything. Ugh, I love printer issues.
I can't wait to have it working and everything hopefully there are no issues assembling it.

It's possible but per key backlighting is significantly harder to pull off IMO. You CAN do backlighting as I have with this keyboard: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3372910

You would just have to use QMK for the firmware. I don't have a how to for it but there is plenty of content out there to help. I would get it all wired up and working without the lights first. Then tackle the lighting as it can always be added on later.

With QMK, a light strip, and the teensy 2.0 you could even have a bunch of lighting modes and control. That Tada is my daily driver on my gaming pc and the lighting is really great. It shines very brightly, even though the keys.

Mechanical Keyboard - Tada68

ok thanks im gonna try to do the tada68 maybe not 100% sure but as long as the lights come through the keys a bit that is all i need just can't really see the letters on the keys without light through them. thank you love all the designs for the keyboards

Thanks! And best of luck. Let me know if you have any questions during the build and I'll try to help.

Comments deleted.

I checked the cost breakdown, but the red and black wires are not listed. Can you link please what I need to get to make this?
Also do you recommend the Teensy or the Teensy++?

I didnt include them because the wires I used are from, Radioshack, which I don't think exists anymore. However, I used 22 guage solid core wires similar to this: https://amzn.to/2W11WuC

You can do 22 or 24, even 26 guage. Just make sure its Solid Core so its easier to work with for this project.

I would go Teensy. The ++ is larger and a bit unnecessary to this project. Although, it would work if you had to use it.

For printed keys what is the best way to label them with letters, number, etc?

There are few here on thingiverse that are already done. Would probably be much easier than editing all the keys yourself. Check those out first.

found the key switches on AliExpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889059825.html since the seller from ebay liked in the parts list seems not to ship to europe..

Hi FedorSosnin, are these keyboard switches good for the project? These are also Cherry MX, so they are compatible with your program?
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000100166477.html

Yep. That should work. :)

Hey quick question, just finished wiring the board and have got to the flashing part (which perhaps I should've tested beforehand). I followed your link and bought one of the replica Teensy's and neither the real or fake flashing software seems to be picking up the teensy when bootloading it. Have you had any experience with this and found a working methodology or is it just luck of the draw with these replica ones?

Scratch that, it was just the cord that came with it not being send and receive. The right cable just arrived and I managed to flash the software on there and it's being detected in the device manager. Unfortunately none of the keypresses are being recognized, so something else is amuck.

Awesome design, however. Thanks for the files and breakdown!

One step forward, one step back. Hmm. Check is the "strobe_cols" setting in the SiCK-68.py file. If it's set to FALSE, set it to TRUE, save and try again. Or TRUE to FALSE.

This is a setting for the direction of the diodes. If none of the keys are working, it could just be that EasyAVR is expecting them to be in the other direction. Easy change. Let's start there.

...OR it could be the same issue as @LincolnW had below. Scroll down a bit and see if that is your issue.

That'd be it! Thanks for the help, asides from a quick re-solder on a column wire, everything works flawlessly.

Sweeeeet. Type to clack away! ;)

Hey man, this thing is freaking awesome!!! Just wondering if you could do a build guide so that way for us who are new at this, we can learn you know? But anyway, awesome job:)

Glad you dig it Aaron. You can find a parts list here: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/9c/58/5b/49/69/SiCK-68_Cost_Breakdown.pdf and I made sure to include photos step by step in the "Post Printing" section of the Thing Details. If you right click those images and open them in a new tab or save them, they are MUCH larger so you can see the details and follow along. Finally, I made a step by step guide for the firmware on the bottom of the Thing Details under the "How I Designed This" section.

Good luck and share your progress. If you need help, ask away. :)

This schema works with arduino pro micro ATMega32u4?
There is some requirements for print this? Like walls, infill..

Nope. The Pro Micro will not have enough ports. I highly recommend the teensy 2.0 for its ports and also the bootloader app. Makes things easier.

I suggest 3 walls and a 20% infill. You can also do 6 top and bottom layers for more strength.

I have everything for this on order just have to print all the parts for it!!

Aw yea! Looking forward to the build!

Hi !
First of all well done for that ! ans thanks for sharing it

Quick question, how did you fix the top and bottom plate together? I see that there are holes but...

Thanks

Thank you! The bottom and top get attached with machine screws. Check out this file for a full breakdown of components: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/9c/58/5b/49/69/SiCK-68_Cost_Breakdown.pdf

How is the key-rollover with the easyAVR? I can't seem to find any info on it :)
Also, is there a possibility to install indicator LEDs for caps and such?

Ive never had issues with key-rollover. Looks like you can press up to 6 keys at once. There IS support for LEDs BUT I find any LED support and control to be better with QMK. It is a bit harder to setup and work with, but it IS more powerful. So if you want LEDs you should research QMK.

Is it possible to do a ESP32 version with bluetooth? Or even a RPi 0 W and use its bluetooth?

Not sure. I would LOVE to know though. There is plenty of room for the hardware inside. Just a matter of figuring out the wiring and components that would work.

Add a few addressable RGB strips and connect to Corsair Commander. This looks like a nice Sunday project. Thanks for all the hard work and sharing!

You can have them facing downward for sure. Otherwise you can extend the bottom case just a few mms and a strip could go on the edge on the inside facing inward. My other keyboard (the tada68) is done that way and it looks GREAT lit up.

That sounds nice - do you have a pic?

Any recommendation for the infill or other printing settings? I was looking for sturdy board.

Sure thing. I usually have the infill around 15-20. But the important one here is 3 walls. You can also up the bottom and top layers to around 6-7. That would really make this thing bullet proof.

Wow, that was fast, thanks.
I am planning to film the build process, I will share when done.
I really appreciate your contribution to open source.

That's awesome. Excited to watch it. :)

Wow. Awesome work man.

Thank you. Glad you dig it. :)

Comments deleted.

I understand and won’t deny that this is obviously an homage piece to the original. However, it’s worth noting that the canoe is basically an art piece in comparison. Can’t compare this plastic experiment to a beautifully machined and precisely rendered canoe.

I apologize in advance for what I think is a simple question. I soldered everything up exactly like it's soldered in the pictures, tested continuity to the teensy, tested the individual switches, tested all of the individual diodes, I know it's soldered properly. My question is on the software side. I tried to follow the instructions but it says to create a folder titled ".EasyAVR", but when I try to name a folder that Windows won't allow me to name a folder starting with a "." does that make sense? I created a folder and named it "EasyAVR" in that location, and moved the "SiCK-68.py" file into it, but my question is, what does that have to do with the other steps with easykeymap.exe? I went through the steps, opened easykeymap, selected 'new', then 'TADA68', then 'build' and named the hex file, then burned it to the teensy via 'fake teensy loader',. Everything seemed to work as expected but then none of the switches are registering. I tried flashing it again and retested all of the connections and switches, but I still can't get any of the keys to register, so I'm thinking either I messed up in the firmware, or my teensy is defective. Because I don't understand how the '.py' file relates to the rest of the steps, I'm thinking I messed up in that process.

Found the problem. Looks like to get the ".EasyAVR" folder, you need to first run EasyAVR. So in your case, copy the provided SiCK-68.py and place that into the C:/Users/(user)/.EasyAVR/boards location that should now exist for you. This won't work in a folder without the period.

Then open EasyAVR, go to New and select "SiCK-68" from the list. That should be the .py file you put into the boards folder. Now build, and it should work. :)

Looks like I need to update the directions. I've done this so many times I must of missed that the . gets made automatically.

That makes perfect sense! Thank you! I will give this a shot when I get home.

I have updated the how-to on the page. I'll do the same for the text file inside the .rar later. Hope it works, If it doest, let's try to change the diode direction the .py.

Should work. Excited to see your setup.

That worked! Thank you so much. I found that .EasyAVR folder that had been created when I first opened up the program, dropped the .py file in and then I could generate a .hex from the Sick-68.py file. Burned it with the fake teensy loader and boom. Everything worked. Tested every switch and they are all working as planned. Now I just need to install the stabilizers and keycaps (once they arrive) and button up the case. I think I'm going to add a bit of hot glue to each switch and generally clean up the wiring before final assembly. I left all of the wiring loose in case I needed to resolder something, but now that it's working I can clean it up. I'll share a few pics from the process. These are temporary key caps, I have others coming in the mail. I'll share some more once it's all buttoned up.

Yeees. Glad to hear that fixed it!! Been waiting for someone to do a black and red build. Looking good even with the temps. Great job.

More pics to come, but it's working great!

Oooh. Nice. I'm in the market for some green keys as well. Glad it's working. Feels good to type on a keyboard you've made yourself! :)

The py file tells the software where you have wired each key and defines settings for the firmware. You basically explain what EasyAVR is working with by placing that file in the correct folder.

The first thing to check is the "strobe_cols" setting in the SiCK-68.py file. If it's set to FALSE, set it to TRUE, save and try again. Or TRUE to FALSE.

This is a setting for the direction of the diodes. If none of the keys are working, it could just be that EasyAVR is expecting them to be in the other direction. Easy change. Let's start there.

hey, does this work with one of those hot swap pcbs

Yep. Just make sure the layout is the same and I would print the lower left portion of the Sick-60. It has the correct opening for a pcb. ;)

Hi FedorSosnin,

May I know if it's possible to get the original cad files such that I can do a remix base on this?

Regards,
Augustine Teo

I actually made this painstakingly in Tinkercad. So unfortunately, all I have is the STL files.

Do the knockoff cherry brown switches feel any different from the "real" ones?

Depends on which knock off, I guess. There are a bunch of posts online saying in some cases most of the knock off switches are better in some ways. I love these browns though and use them on a daily basis. Lubing them would only make them better.

So far "bSun" switches have been a bit better than "NewGiant" ones, a bit tighter, and are closest to my Outemu switches. I wouldnt be able to notice the difference between them. The NewGiant switches are noticeably wobblier however. Especially on the larger keys like the space bar or shift keys. But hey, they are under $10 for 70 switches so its hard to complain too much.

Hi there. I just finished this project but I've encountered several issues.

  • Some of the keys that need stabilizers, get stuck whhen I pressed them.Is here any way to fix this?
  • The "h" key,Sometimes when I press it it duplicates. instead of "h" it writes "hh".

Another question. How to I make the Fn key to work?

Thanks for the help in advance.

Awesome to know you've put it all together but always crappy running into issues. A part of it I guess–let's see if we can troubleshoot.

  1. The stabilizer bars can be slightly bent to give it the full travel that they need. Just hold the ends and use your thumbs to ever so gently bend the bar In the center and try the key again. You can also get rid of the resonating tinny sound they sometimes make if they are too loose this way.

  2. Hmm. I've never had that happen before. Not even sure what that could be. Maybe after a re-flash it will be ok? Is the switch possibly defective? I would check to see if that connection is somehow compromised and maybe triggering twice because of it.

  3. In EasyAVR or QMK, you can edit the "layers". Once you go into the software and into the second layer, you can customize whichever keys you want to assign. Once you compile that firmware and flash the teensy, holding FN plus the keys you've assigned on layer 2 will become functional. For example, I set the page up and page down to volume up and volume down keys on Layer 2. So when I hold FN, I can press those to control volume.

Hope this helps! You can also post on reddit.com/r/mechanicalkeyboards if you need further assistance. People on there have helped me several time during these builds.

Once you get it running, please, post a Make. I'd love to see it.

hi. just finished the wiring and programming of the keyboard, for the most part it works and i am typing with it now. i found that one of the key columns are not working, D3 on the wiring guide. do you have any clues as to why this can happen... my question mark is one of the buttons haha,

Happened to me too. Haha. I’d check each solder joint on that column. Or check the diode direction.

Thanks for the reply Fendor, i don't want to bother you too much, i think just one more question and i should be set. do you know how i'd go about setting up a UK layout? i was using the EASYAVR and found the scancodes such as 'HID_KEYBOARD_SC_2_AND_AT' include both the shift and the normal function of the keys. i tried changing it but it seems to be predefined somewhere and the function i require (2 and " on the key) does not exist in the scancode list. tried google to no avail and tried setting it up as a macro but couldn't figure out how to set the macro to the shift of a button. any ideas?

disregard that last comment for i am an idiot. even though the program shows it as the US layout, my PC default keyboard layout seems to kick in and change it to 2 and ". now i just need keycaps and i'll be ready to post my make \o/

Awesome! Glad to hear it worked out. Share a make when you are done so I can see the awesomeness. :)

Does this not work with a Teensy 3.2? I followed all the instructions and it isn't detected by Windows 10 after downloading the hex file and rebooting. Tried with both the fake and real loaders. :/

I've never owned a 3.2. Only 2.0's. So, I'm not sure. There is probably a setting or two that need to be tweeks to get it to work with a 3.2 but honestly I have no experience. Might have to google a bit for that one. If you find out how, please share. I'm sorry im not very helpful.

Loading things onto the 3.2 seems to be much more involved and requires the Arduino IDE and Teensyduino to be installed first. It has its own loader application but it does the same thing when given your .hex file. Decided to just order a Teensy 2.0 off eBay instead, I'm sure I'll eventually put this 3.2 to use so it's not a complete loss. I appreciate the fast response. :)

Hi, awesome design, thanks for sharing it.
As the top and the base have this middle separation line have you considered making the bottom out of 3 equal parts instead of 2? I think it will give it a bit more strength.

Thank you :) Yes for sure, I've tried a few variations but at the end of the day the less pieces connecting it the better. Less chance to get glue everywhere and less chance to misalign the whole thing. The dowels/pins and super glue have done a great job on the 4 sets that I have put together so far. All are very sturdy once glued, soldered, and screwed together. Especially if you fill the bottom with shelving liner. ;)

It's gettin there! I think it would be much easier if you find some Solid Core wire to use. ;)

I heard it’s hard to add stabilizers after soldering, how hard is it

You can add costar stabilizers at any time. They won’t interfere in any way. :)

Those look to be cherry stabilizers. This board calls for “costar” stabilizers. There are links in the cost breakdown doc attached to the main post. Luckily they are very inexpensive.

I know the diodes are all suppose to be going the same direction but witch one

Refer to my photos toward the bottom of my page. You can click “view original” to see them larger. Follow the same direction.

Any specific spots to place rubber feet?

Not really. Typically, I will put two smaller stick ons on the front evenly, and then two larger ones toward the back but one at a time to avoid rocking. Because this is 3D printed and glued, one of the rear feet may need to be higher up on the keyboard to avoid rocking. But no one sees that part anyway. :)

Hi, Thank you so much for this awesome thing, it looks beautiful. planning on using prusa galaxy black and purple :D
i am thinking of building one when i can get parts. I'm not sure about the wire though, would this do the job?https://www.amazon.co.uk/TUOFENG-Electric-Flexible-Different-Electronic/dp/B07G72DRKC/ref=sr_1_7_sspa?keywords=22+Guage+solid+copper+core+wire&qid=1561583769&s=gateway&sr=8-7-spons&psc=1

Thats gonna look great! Try to find Solid Core wire. It will make things MUCH easier then messing with all the tiny strands. 22 gauge should be good though. You can go one step thinner and still be fine. :)

Thanks for the reply, Just got my teensy board today. Just wondering. If i wanted to add a new row for the function/custom keys. Could i use any of the remaining empty connections on the teensy board? or are they specified to be either a row / column ?
was thinking of using F0 since it is got no other used connections around it and would be easier to solder. so, would that work?
Thanks again for this inspirational idea. never would have thought i'd be making my own keyboard.

That’s awesome! You have the right idea. If there is another pin you will just have to add another row and extend the columns. You planning on making a remix with the f keys? I’m looking forward to it.

Phew, so glad it's that simple, haha. i'd be more than happy sharing the files via remix when I'm done and sure it works. Thanks for all the help man, you're a legend :)

Excited to see it come together. :) let me know if I can help in any way. :)

I decided to call off my plans of rgb , I have a question though how many stabilizers you needed

I dont blame you! It get's a bit complex when handwired. You need "Costar" stabilzers. 1x 6.25u and 3x 2u.

Thank you do you have any tips or additional information for the build and ordering the parts

Just take your time soldering. Make each connection have a good solder joint. I rushed a bit on the first build and had to re-solder joints here and there. Follow this for parts: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/9c/58/5b/49/69/SiCK-68_Cost_Breakdown.pdf and if you don't want to wait, you can always grab parts on Amazon. Example: https://amzn.to/2IJSdUM. Another pointer I have is play with the firmware before you even get the parts. See if Easy AVR is to your liking. QMK firmware is a bit more powerful and I use it for RGB backlit boards however It IS harder to learn and required more time. With that said, you can do pretty much anything you want in QMK which is fun. Meanwhile EasyAVR is just that, easy. Good luck, and ask any questions you may have.

Thank you for all your help I forgot about menu that shows how much of each part sorry about that I’m gonna go figure out the software now

No problem! Excited to see more people build these. :)

Thank you do you have any tips or additional information for the build and ordering the parts

before I do all the wiring... as cherry switches have room for an LED I wanna seize that.
do you think there's enough room for the extra wiring and some shift registers.

There is more than enough room for leds as well as the wiring you’d need for them. I’ve personally never done it before so I have no experience with getting that to work with the teensy. Please share if you get per key lighting to work, I’d love to have that on some of my boards.

awesome,thanks. good to know.
I'll definitely share it when finished.
it will take a while as I've never done something like it, but I'll find the way.

Im looking forward to it. :)

Hi, does the micro controller provided in the link support RGB switches, also will the frame need any modifications for the RGB to work best? Also what gauge wiring should I use

Honestly not sure. With that said, it does support RGB backlighting with a WS2812B strip with many modes and settings. For that, you will have to use QMK firmware but its well worth it.

Also what gauge wire because from what I see your not sauderimg the switches to a bourd but a micro controller and I see wire in the pictures

I use 22 Guage solid copper core wire. You can see the wiring diagram and pictures of the process here: https://imgur.com/gallery/oco2BDK

Was wondering, I know that this is meant to be used along with handwiring, is there enough room inside to fit an actual PCB from TADA68 or something like that?

Then again, I just realised there's no stand-offs to use a PCB with.

The top plate will work with a PCB but the bottom needs some tweaks. With that said, I made a 60% variant (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3671408) that can handle PCBs so it shouldn't be too hard to adapt to the 68. I just need some measurements from the pcb since I don't have any on hand.

Mechanical Keyboard - SiCK-60 (60%)

Hey is this soldering job okay so far?

The solder looks good however make sure your diodes are all facing the same direction! Otherwise, the keys simply won't work.

Oh darn I had no idea. I didn't see anything about that in the pictures. I guess black ring towards the top then?

Sorry about that. Yep, pointing at the top will work.

Comments deleted.

What pcb would be compatible with this 3D print?

It fits with the top portion but the bottom would have to be modified to fit the pcb usb placement. I have something cooking in the works. :)

EDIT: If you are interested, I have made a 60% version designed around the 1up 60% PCBs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3671408

Mechanical Keyboard - SiCK-60 (60%)

is there a way to use cherry stabilizers instead of costar?
as I have a few and I would like to use them.

Good question. I'd like to try them as well, so I might play around with it later.

awesome, thanks.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Also can you link to the stabilizers? I bought 4 6.25u 2u. But looks like I need something different for the keyboard

Sure. If you used my link to the eBay seller, there is a drop down for a "6.25u" stabilizer. That is what I used for the space bar. Here's a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plate-mounted-Costar-Stabilizers-Balancing-Pole-6-25u-2u-For-Keyboard-Big-Key/222952267613?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=521762802858&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

So I used the link and trying to do my left shift key. But with the metal flush in place it pops out on the left side because the bar hits the key.

I got it figured out. Thanks! Wiring diagram has me slightly confused. The resolution is low too and slightly blurry on the photo.

What did you do to fix this? I am running into the same problem.

Sorry about that. Glad you got it figured out though. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Also I just recently saw the “see original” link in photos on Thingiverse. It shows the photos in full res.

Do you have a more detailed wiring diagram I can follow?

Try to use this one: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/a7/ee/47/42/79/Screen_Shot_2019-03-11_at_3.14.38_PM.jpg

I made sure to color code it and even have each wire labeled with what port to solder it to. It also helps to check out the photos in the description to see the order of what to solder first.

Comments deleted.

Hey, Thank you for the cool designs also do you know where I could find the carbon fibre bed as seen in your past designs?

The carbon is actualy a piece of cloth that covers up the bare metal of the stock bed. I ran it as a test but found no issues in heating or cooling so I left it. Been there for months with no issues. :)

Cool, thanks, it looks really cool

If anyone wants an ISO Version, i edited the stl files to match this layout Link

I am still printing this one, but it should fit.

Thank you for this version!
So did it fit, 5 month later? And how are you supposed to connect the | key? I'm looking to print your version and wanted to be sure.

Awesome. Thanks for sharing.

How come the Sick 68 isn't receded in the upper left? It sticks out. I wanted to make a custom color one to stick in it.

I had issues with my personal one and ended up making it extrude out instead and therefore updated the files to do the same. Here is an stl @jasonlove199450 edited for another user.

Is it possible to get a step file to adapt it from using a teensy to an arduino pro micro? Only cause I have almost all the parts needed for this just laying around from past builds and arduinos are what I have around

I dont have one on hand to model it. But do the pro micros have enough ports for a 68 switch board?

You'd need 20 ports or 21 if you want backlighting.

What kind of build plate are you using?

I have a Gulfcoast Robotics borosilicate glass plate: https://amzn.to/2Xr7eze

Any time. I love the glass! I clean it with isopropyl alcohol before each print and it's been amazing. Let me know if you have any questions.

Just one more question, how did you get the carbon fiber pattern? It looks sick.

Thanks! It's actually a thin fabric I had. It looked boring with the metal under the glass so I cut a square piece and put it under the glass. I haven't had a single issue and it looks miles better.

That's cool! thanks

Interested in building this, but I'm curious - do you have to handwire it with this design? Or could I just throw a PCB in it, solder the switches, and call it a day?

It might...but it wasn't intended to accommodate one. The top plate was designed really thick so there is no flex but the pins should be low enough to reach a pcb. Im sure you'd need to cut off the towers in the lower portion and maybe file here or there. Interested to see if you give it a go.

Awesome! I’m excited to see your build.

Simplicity. Costar stabilizers are easy to adjust and maintain if you want to lube them. Also, I had trouble with mx style stabilizers on my Drevo Calibur. A few broke when I was switching keys. The Costars are a bit more fiddly to take on and off but the simplicy of them drew me in.

I just finished the first of two planned builds and the only issue I have is the stabilizers. When I press the space bar, it doesn't come back up. I'll have to dig into it some more to try and figure out what's happening. My current theory is that I might have to adjust the vertical uprights on the plate mount stab parts.
I'm more experienced with the Cherry type.

Easy fix. These things are adjusble. You need to ever so gently bend the stabilizer rod inward. Using your thumbs, place them on the middle hump with the left and right angles facing at you. Gently give it the slightests of bends and it will work great. You can adjust how much tension the stabilizer has this way.

If this is confusing, I can make a quick video. :)

A video would be great as i have to bend all stabs and i don't know how

fair enough ill stick with the costar stablisers then . I have found a few errors with your design nothing major so I have repaired them and I have changed your screw holes to use m3 threaded inserts and 10mm M3 screws to make it more durable and less likely to strip the screw holes when assembling it. I have also designed a full set of keys for it which I have been printing at 0.03 layer hight. its been taking 1 hour per key. I will upload all the files once I have completed it.

Oh awesome. I just tried to make things as simple and cheap as possible. The idea of inserts and m3 screws sounds great though.

Great build. Added it to the open-source keyboard list. https://github.com/BenRoe/awesome-mechanical-keyboard

I see that some of your images show the SiCK-68 logo as recessed into the print but the files included in the download have the logo raised. Would it be possible to include the top left piece with the recessed logo, along with the file to print just the logo?

I noticed the same thing and I much prefer the recessed version so I have edited the file to to match the one in the photo . here is the file :)

Thanks, just what I was looking for!

Oh you are quick! Thanks.

But yes, I've had both the recessed and the raised version, and the raised one looked cool in red above the marble so I ran with it. :)

I did not expect to see another awesome keyboard design from you before I've been able to complete your earlier one! I'm going to have to make this one as well, even though the last thing I need is another keyboard!

Could you tell us what brand filament you used for the granite effect on the top pieces, and if you had any issues printing with it? I didn't even know that type of filament existed but a search turns up several options.

I enjoyed the first one so much I needed to make a new one for the office asap! haha.

I used ZIRO 3D "marble" filament. Here's the link: https://amzn.to/2NYzh5y

It's actually REALLY good filament. Prints easy with no modifications from standard PLA and it hides a lot of imperfections and layer lines. Its a bit smoother and looks great. Highly recommend.

This is awesome! I would love to incorporate this into a future project.

Nice. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm all about that LowBudgetTech

Can you also upload your teensy firmware? Thanks!

Uploaded! Everything you need is in the files section. :)

I'll work on getting those over to you guys. I need to add a little write up on how to do it using EasyAVR.

How do you like this one vs your Tada68?

I like how clean this looks but love how obscure and different my Tada is. This one is for work, the tada is for play. ;)

Will this work with an arduino pro micro ? also could I please have the arduino file ? I've just ordered all the parts to make it :D

Oh awesome. Im honestly not sure if it would just mount up. I've only ever had Teensies. Ill work on getting you guys the files.

It looks like the mount is just slightly too small to fit the Pro Micro. My calipers measure the Pro Micro at ~18.7mm across compared to the Teensy's 17.8mm. The PCB thickness looks about the same, so the microUSB port looks to be accessible fine too, just the hole is a bit bigger for the mini. https://i.imgur.com/nQrJNsr.jpg Not sure you can tell from the picture, but it just barely doesn't fit.

Also I realized a standard Pro Micro only exposes 17 pins which isn't enough for the keyboard. And one of them is right next to the front edge so that barely accessible. So that's going to be annoying.

editying for more stuff: one of my favorites, RobotDyn's Pro Micro clone adds a few more pins and happens to fit in the slot fine, but I have the pinned version and don't want to bother removing them. And their clones are pricey enough that I'd rather just get a Teensy.

The wiring diagram its same for pro micro?

I ended up using a Teensy on mine. Like I said, the Pro Micro doesn't have enough to do 1 column/row to each pin, so you'll have to be a bit more creative with the rows and columns to make it work.

Yuuup. @Licensedbr stick with a Teensy 2.0

Also, the Elite-C boards looks awesome. Additional pins + USB C.

Love that color! What color did you make the top?

Just caught the edit! Thats good to know but I think since the teensy clones are running great on my boards, they are good deal at the moment at around $10 bucks from china. ;)

I'm doing the same Ziro marble for the top. Though I've also got a bright yellow I might do.

I'll order some Teensys from China. So now it's the waiting game.

Would love a tutorial . I bought all the parts including the teensy expecting it to be able to just upload your code and it be done but I've checked the link you posted on here and theres nothing on there so I had a look around on google to see if I could find out how Im supose to program it and there doesn't seem to be much about how to do it. I've played around with EasyAVR but don't have a clue on what to even do with it. surely I'm not going to have to program this myself by hand ??

Uploaded! Everything you need is in the files section. :)

Got a problem . I have followed your instructions on how to program it but when I try open the SiCK-68.json file in EasyAVR it says '' Invalid save file: unsupported unique_id TADA68v2 ''

Ok I found the issue, in the .py doc, please edit lines 23,24,25 to have "SiCK-68" instead of "TADA68v2". Added a screenshot for reference. Also, updated the file within the downloads folder.

Let me know if that does it.

I have updated the instructions to create a new profile instead of opening the included .json. You should still update the lines above or just replace everything with the new files I have added to the files section.

I created a fresh virtual machine to test my instructions on a fresh slate and was able to successfully create a .hex following the institutions line by line. Should be good to go.

erm the new ''How to program the SiCK-68.docx'' has nothing in it haha its just an empty word docment now.

Fixed. Also, added the text into the description on the main page in it's own section on the bottom.

I had just bumbled through setting up the firmware for your Tada68 the other day. It did take a while and several websites to get it figured out, so kudos for adding the info to this project.

I wanted to mention that one of the keys you can assign will put the Teensy in bootloader mode, so you don't have to keep the back panels off to access the reboot button. I've currently got mine set as layer one, function key + escape.

I'm glad it's around and has a chance to be helpful because like you said, the info was a bit scattered.

Yes! The boot key is a must. I think otherwise you get an error in EasyAVR.

With that said, one of my Teensys recognizes the button, but my latest does not. Being a cheap replica, I can't be mad about it. It is what it is and I dont change things around too often plus I dont mind popping off a few screws to get to the teensy itself to press it.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

Why didn't you add a third chunk on it for a number pad instead of making it ten keyless

Going for a compact design to keep costs to a minimum. 68 keys vs 102. :)

That would make cents :) (Pun intended, sorry) I'm an Architecture student so I love the number pad for many reasons :). It's a wonderful design. Well done. Out of curiosity, did you ever think about making low profile Cherry MX keycaps?

LOL. I gotta check the price on those. Otherwise, I'd LOVE to experiment with em.