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Aeronautical

Heater Block holder for 3D Printer Nozzle - The Wrench

by Aeronautical Feb 20, 2019
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Just printed this tool. Got a set of metal prongs in the ProFi box from FilamentOne. Awesome idea and will be way better than having to maul my heatblock with a wrench when trying to swap nozzle. Quick question though. The prongs i got are flat on one side and the other side is slight shinier with rounded edges. I assumed this meant i have the V1 prongs. The final result is that they slightly jiggle in their slots. Is that expected?

Hello, are STL files to the metal prongs available? I would like to print those as well

Comments deleted.

Thanks mate, l have been made aware of this. Its really disappointing that those people have no shame for bluntly stealing other peoples ideas and profiting from it. Shame on them!

No worries! Deleted as I also don't want to lead others directly to it!

Thank you. I really appreciate that

Looking forward to making and using this tool.Thanks for the print.

Hello,

Can i remix it ? I made it without your prongs (alternative). I you don't want, i delete this comment.

Hey just one more thing, not sure if you realised, but its kind of a coincidence

I had not seen, but yes, coincidence indeed. I'm silent, lol.

Sorry mate, it didn’t post my whole msg lol

So it’s up to you if you choose to remix / post it as l have put the files up on thingiverse. I would prefer not, but it’s ultimately your choose.

Thanks for letting me know
Kind regards josh

Oki Josh no remix !
It will be for my personal use

Hey Orlins,

That looks really neat, good on you for finding an alternative solution to the steel prongs. I guess if you remix and share, it would probably kill my business model

I do not want, out of the question! I like your job.

Thanks Orlin, did you read the msg l just wrote? For some reason, l had this big msg wrote up, but it only posted half of it. Knowing my luck, the part that it did post, probably sounded a little blunt, sorry about that

Yes,
I will respect your economic model. I prefer to ask you

Thank you mate

Do you have the dimensions for the steel prongs? Or can you give the dims?

Judy printed and assemble my tool, thank you for the great idea!

Very nice :). The yellow and black look great!!! well done and thanks for sharing :)

Ihre Reaktion ist verständlich. Aber eines dürfen Sie mir glauben: Genau so, wie ich es beschrieben habe, ist wahr, und ich verbitte mir, das anzuweifeln. Auch mir kommt dieser Vorgang recht dubios vor. Dummerweise habe ich die beiden Email. aus Verärgerung sofort gelöscht; ich kann sie nicht finden. Da ich aber wohl tatsächlich Kontakt mit Ihrer Firma hatte, müssten die Mails auf Ihren Server noch liegen.
Zum Schluss will ich diesen Disput bitte beenden, da ich Wichtigeres zu tun habe. Außerdem ist damit der Gemeinschaft geklärt, dass Sie auch Deutschland beliefern. Eine böse Absicht, Ihnen schaden zu wollen, entspricht in keinem Fall meinem Wesen!

That is my company :). I've never had a conversation with someone from Germany, saying l wouldn't send to them? I'm very confused by what your saying. Im not sure what you mean by "Then I helped myself"?

As far as I remember, I had wanted to place an order with an Australian supplier. During the ordering process I was informed that not to Germany will be delivered. Then I pushed the company that this is very surprising and incomprehensible. In response, I was informed that this is being done. I could not find another supplier. Then I helped myself.

I would like to know who this company you spoke to. I am the designer of this tool and l am the only one who is manufacturing them "unless someone is ripping off on my idea/design".

I have been selling these international since day one

Unfortunately, the Australian manufacturer / supplier of steel parts does NOT deliver to Germany. So it is necessary to make these parts themselves, but this should not cause any problems.

I am the manufacturer and supplier, l ship these world wide. Who said that l don't deliver to Germany???

you dont happen to give out the dimentions of the steel prongs by chance?

How wide is the hole on the prongs?

Why would you need to know that?

Are the slots in the prongs supposed to slide around the heater cartridge on a mk3? Or are the prongs supposed to be positioned on the side that doesn't have anything? A diagram over head showing how you are supposed to position them on the heater block would be extremely helpful. The video has a hand in the way, no way to see how they are positioned. The slots in the prongs makes me think it's supposed to slide over something.

Right OK. No, if you have a look at your heater block, there is a pan head screw that is used to clamp down the heater cartridge. That pan head screw extends beyond the heater block. So the channel in the prongs is to clear that. It's really hard to get in a good position to film it. But, if you take a look at this picture, it should give you a clear look on how the prongs are positioned on the heater block.

Does that make a bit more sense? Its not supposed to go around the heater cartridge side. In fact if you did try that, the prongs wouldn't fit anyway, thus there is only one orientation you can have it.

This was helpful to me! Thanks.

Can someone explain why all the files have changed from STL's to RAR's and how can I load them into my Prusa Slic3R slicer?? Every time I try to import them into the slicer my Arduino program pops open?? I only need to print the butt end flexible insert and I will have finished making one Hell of a great piece of industrial design

Hey there. Sorry about that. I had put everything in RAR files so it was more organised for everyone. Instead of having 30+ STL files in one bundle. I've put it back to how it was originally. Sorry for the confusion.

Kind regards
Josh

.RAR is a compression file its like a .ZIP file. You need 7zip or another Rar util to uncompress them to to get the .stl files.

Is it me or are the new Part F way to flat to fit like the former part E did? I mean for the new tool with only 1 set of prongs.

Hey there, good pick up and yes you are right that it is flatter. The original tool that holds 4 prongs, has a 2.6mm deep channel to fit the 1.6mm flex part "Part E". Where as the new single prong "2 prong" holder has a 1.6mm deep channel, so the flex part is 0.6mm "Part E". It should still fit and have the same clearance as the original tool.

Where PART E fit perfectly in the old version,the PART F really doesn't fit for me. See attached image.

These are my prints, they fit no problem. As you can see, one side is slightly larger than the other. So you have the wrong orientation

Hey can you just check, with Part F, it isn't symmetric like Part E, so can you just check that you have it the right way around. i.e. there is only one orientation that it will fit

Have it the right way round, but for me it just seems way to thin compared to the first version, see image.

Hey so l just printed it and it fit fine. Some key points to try, the surface of PART F that is in contact with the printer bed, have that side facing up when you insert that into the other printed component. Reason is, because the side that is in contact with the bed is normally a little squished. Because of that and the tolerance of that part, it could make it difficult to insert. So if you try insert PART F with the top surface going into the print first, it should fit. If you can give that a go and let me know, that would be great. If yo are still not having any luck, than l can modify the part just for you and send you the STL :).

Strange because unlike the old one, the PART E is thick enough to fill the 2.6mm channel, but here first of all it seems to big in size but to thin to fill the 1.6mm channel. So on the old tool I had the flex sticking a little up out of the channel for better grip, but here the flex goes deep into the channel and leaves a gap and no grip support. First image is new and second old.

Thanks for helping. :-)

Yeah l see what your saying. So the way l tried to design it was so that the top part sits flush with the surface, l never intended it to stick out. The surface had a 2.6mm channel and so l did 1.6mm for the flex part, that way it allowed a little bit of wiggle room. And so l followed the same thought process when designing the newer version. If you like, l can make the never version PART F a little bit thicker, from 0.6mm to 1.6mm like the original one, so it stick out a bit on your tool? Just let me know if you do and l will add it to the files :). Glad l could help

If you have time, then I would love to see if that fits better.

No worries at all. Always willing to help out the people who supported my idea :). I just uploaded a file called PART F - A LITTLE BIT THICKER. Give that a go and let me know if it works for you. Regards Josh

Looks way better, but is too big as you can see in the image. Will try and print a 98% size and see how that goes.

Hey lm not sure why it's so much longer now, all l did was thicker it 1mm haha. I'll double check it tomorrow morning, print test.

So I played a little with scaling and 94% X & Y is a good size, you will have to stretch it to insert it, but like it much better than your original part F. ;-)

Thanks for a great tool. Can I order 4 Prongs type 2 from you?

Oh that great to hear mate :). Yeah absolutely, the link for the ebay store is at the top of the instructions page. I'm also selling the screws for the tool as well, if you need them

Hey lm just going to print it out now, just wait out a couple of minutes

The original combo wrench’s slots are wider than the 23mm single wrench. Metal plates fit in the combo wrench. They won’t fit in the 23mm wrench (see picture of difference )

Hey Jim, thanks for bringing that to my attention. Just so l am clear on what your saying, the steel prongs wont fit in the 23mm single version?

For the life of me, I cannot get the TPU pieces to fit in the top of the tool. Any advise, tips, etc. I have reprinted things twice, carefully following the steps. The TPU piece just seems too wide for the groove.

Any help appreciated.

When something doesn't fit, I'd suggest just scaling down the appropriate axis/axes in your slicer software as needed (maybe 1-2%, you'll have to try and see).

Thanks mate, that's a good idea.....

Hey, so sorry your having problems with it. I know when l printed my flexi filament using the Hobby King brand filament, it worked like a treat. But when l used this other brand of filament, it was a nightmare to fit too. So l took it as maybe the Hobby king filament shrunk just a little for it to sit snug. Whereas the other brand didn't shrink. This might be the case for you.

Also maybe l might be wrong here, but is there a difference between TPU and flexible filament? Because l know the brand l tried that didn't fit was called TPU and the Hobby King brand l used was called flexible filament?

Either way, if you can tell me the name of the flexi part that you are trying to print "that wont fit". I can adjust the tolerances slightly so that it will work with your filament.

I was finally able to get it to fit. The problem was the width of the parts for the inserts, they were just a bit too wide, no matter how far down I scaled them. If I went too far down, the piece was too small in length to fit everywhere. I finally found a screwdriver I had here and just ran it around the inside of the cutout on the tool. it made it just right so I could fit it in. I appreciate the suggestions. Perhaps making a model of the inserts that has a slightly narrower width on the line would allow others to get it to fit without this change. Filament and how it finalizes its size can be tough. The larger pieces for around the edge of the piece fit perfectly, so it was odd. Great tool, can;t wait to get my prongs and start using it.

Hey, so l took a look again at the file. I did an assembly in AutoCAD Inventor to see if there was any alignment issues. I was having some problems constraining the two parts together, not sure if it was an AutoCAD issue or if the parts aren't perfectly symmetrical. Either way, l did the part again, with a 0.1mm tolerances. If you feel like printing that part again, it "should" fit perfectly now.

Thank you for your feedback :)

Can you add the dimensions of the steel pieces?

I saw your FaceBook post and ordered the metal portion of your tool. Thanks for making this all available! If anyone else is in a backward country, that uses the English system, you need 2 - Flathead 8-32 X 5/8" machine screws. They work perfectly.

That's great mate! Thanks for sharing that information with everyone. Also, thanks for buying the prongs!!! :)

Curious as the orientation in the video and picture 3 and 5 in that for the wrench to slide into the slots it would mean the actual orientation of using it would be 90 degrees counterclockwise to what is shown in my MK3 setup. Or in other words for this to fit on to the block of the MK3 the wrench would go on to it perpendicular to the x-axis? Based on the photos it makes it seem like the block you are connecting to is in a different orientation. Maybe a picture of your heater block connected from the wrench below would help clear this up in respect to the heater bed.. Would be good to know if that slot, 20, 23MM is the max distance in the slot. Great idea on the tool and I have somebody anxious to hand machine the parts.

Hey Kevin. Interesting point you brought up, if l understand you properly. The heater block longest length is perpendicular to the x aixs. l'm not 100% sure right now if that is the correct orientation, but with my MK3 at home and the 6 MK3 at work, the orientation is all the same. So therefor the tool will then be running parallel to the x axis, as shown in the pictures. So maybe either your setup is orientated differently or my ones are. Either way, changing the orientation of the heater block shouldn't be an issue "That l am aware of".

The two slots, 20mm and 23mm are the maximum width "or the width" that the heater block needs to be for the tool to work.

It's great to see you have access to someone machining them for you. I am currently getting them all laser cut by a local supplier and selling them through the Original Prusa Facebook page. So if you would like to buy one or more, feel free to check it out.

Hopefully that has answered your questions. If not, let me know and l will try again.

Hey thanks for the reply... here's way to see the orientation as it is from the factory... at 2:09 to 2:11 of this YouTube video... so the wrench would fit over the protrusions I thought and thus perpendicular. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uv_v5-wtHaE

Here's a picture of the MK3 I am working with.

Hey Kevin, lol sorry l'm confused now. The picture that you sent me, looks like the right orientation to what l have. But the direction that you have drawn where the tool lies, is not the correct direction. The tool actual goes parallel to the x axis. When l get home, l'll put a better picture up of my orientation. And hopefully that clears up what your asking.

If not, keep firing questions and l will try my best to explain :)

Could I not just print all of it using PETG buddy?

You sure can. Although the parts that are printed in flex material was more as a comfort thing. Just makes gripping more like a tool. And l only used PLA as l wanted it in blue, but only had that in PLA. PETG would probably be a lot better, especially long term

Nice job.
I may use your design and make the prongs from two layers of ss steel brazed/soldered together as I do not have access to mill machine.

Hey that's a great idea. Please share a picture of your work, be great for others to see how you went about it