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latigerlilly

Sig P238 Grips

by latigerlilly May 27, 2014
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It printed fine with 0.2 mm layers, but not with 0.1 mm layers because the bottom is not perfectly smooth. These were drawn in a CAD program but derived from a 3d scan. It fits my Sig just fine. I'll try to get a photo and post it.

Interesting. Actually considering their small size and that you did use a 3d scanner, I'd say it did a pretty good job even if there is some noise.. Most 3d scanners I've worked with have trouble resolving much bigger features. What model scanner did you use?

Edit: also your content looks much more inviting with a picture or render of it instead of just the thingiverse .stl previews.. Nice.

Unfortunately these don't seem to provide sufficient clearance for ambi-safety, I was hoping to print them even if the mesh looks noisy.

As you can see with it mounted on my Sig, there is plenty of clearance for the safety. The mesh is not, "noisy". It is a textured grip, so it looks exactly as it is supposed to look. I would never put something online for others to print that is not printable and waste others' plastic.

I was worried about the ambi safety, I see you provided clearance for the regular one. I wasn't trying to be hostile, but I just printed someone else's 238 grips and encountered that problem and yours look similar. It's such a small amount of plastic I don't mind trying it if you think it'll fit.

As for the noise, what I am referring to is when acquiring 3d scan data covering a curve, instead of a smooth gradual sloping signal sometimes a noisy signal with data spikes is encountered due to hardware limits in the machine, resolving resolution in the reconstructive algorithm, or some other way noise is induced into the system creating bumps or a texture. I see the texture, but the surfaces that should be smooth look bumpy (unless you want it that way?). That is why I asked if this was created with a 3d scanner, either that or the mesh was generated with insufficient resolution, an easy fix. I was just wondering and the 3d printer will probably smooth out that part anyway. My comments weren't meant to be insulting and my apologies if they seemed that way.. I applaud you for trying a 3d scan especially of a firearm part/accessory and contributing to the community of enthusiasts. I am a huge fan.

No, I wasn't aware that the Sig P238 came with ambidextrous safety, if that's what you mean. You must've bought that or printed that as an aftermarket part as I have never seen one on a Sig P238 in any gun store. If you have a non-standard part requirement, I suggest you use tinkercad to cut one out of my grips. It is a free children's CAD program and is free.

No, this is not just a 3d scan. It combines 3d scan data plus CAD design. I used a combination of Netfabb and tinkercad. One grip was done with Netfabb and the other one was done with Tinkercad. I used a NextEngine 3d scanner to scan the grip. It cannot scan the holes, so I modeled the holes for the screws using Netfabb and Tinkercad. The Tinkercad grip is simplified as tinkercad simplifies the mesh to save hard drive space. The Netfabb version has a bigger data footprint. The front corners were too sharp so the 3d scanner had trouble with that, so I rounded it using Netfabb. I used a digital caliper to measure all the holes 5 times and took the average on the original to ensure that it is precise and accurate down the the last 0.01 mm. Then, I modeled the holes 0.3mm bigger to account for ABS plastic expansion during the 3d printing process. The hole that is right on top of the HBP (heated build platform) is 0.8 mm bigger because plastic directly on the HBP tends to ooze a bit.

Due to limits of the technology, I had to combine 36 3d scans and cherry pick the best data. It took me 48 hours to do this. I worked on it a little bit every day for many weeks to do this. It prints fine at 0.2 mm layers but as I pointed out in my description, the bottom is not completely flat (because it is from a 3d scan) so it cannot be printed without raft at less than 0.2 mm layers. However, as you can see, it prints just fine at 0.2 mm layers without raft and without supports in ABS plastic.

My next update of this thing will be to use CAD to make it 0.1 to 0.4 mm thicker, then cut a 0.1 to 0.4 mm flat plane into the bottom to make it perfectly flat. I'm just not in a hurry to do so because as you can see it prints fine as-is.

Haha even if I had the skills I'd be afraid to replace the safety with anything I printed. I've seen them on a few, it seems they've added it to all of them recently. The 238 and 938 I shot before I decided to go with the 938 both lacked ambi safetys.

Unfortunately I won't be editing this to fit my gun since the 938 and 238 have considerably different grips to my surprise (it didn't feel that way when I rented them).

Thanks for the info on the scanner, if it took you 48 hours to do all that I think I'll keep doing my old school methods using a caliper :P

I will say that the part itself looked great even if it didn't fit my gun, the screw holes lined up darn near perfectly so you definitely did your part. I liked the feel, maybe I'll scale them for my gun, though I might just throw a Hogue grip on there and forget about it. Nice job though, and props for experimenting with new modeling methods!

If you'd like, just mail me your sig p938 grips and I will design a grip for it with my 3d scanner and CAD program. I think I can just resize the grip, but when you resize the grip, the hole's dimensions will change, so after that, I will have to seal up the holes and then put new correctly sized holes in the original locations. I'll use my digital calipers to measure the holes and then make the holes just a tad bigger to account for ABS warp during the printing process. (0.3 mm bigger). The hole that is right on the print platform will be 0.4 mm bigger due to ABS ooze.

I'll private message you with my address. Let me know if you're interested.

Were these 3D scanned? The mesh looks very 3d scan-like/noisy

I'll be interested in your 1911 grips. I've come across a couple of files here and there, but lack of texture makes them almost unusable and along with full size grips i need a set for a commander size frame and my attempts to modify the files i have have been less than successful.

OK, I did a bit of Google-fu and came up with a discontinued pistol by Colt, the Commander had a 4.25 inch barrel and standard size grips, I think (I'm not sure).

I thought that there's only two styles of 1911; the full size and the officer's model, both of which have the same grip. The only difference is that the officer's model has a 1 inch shorter barrel. I have never heard of a "commander" 1911. I searched the Kimber and the Springfield websites and did not see a "commander" 1911. There were smaller 1911 style pistols such as the Sig p238, but they aren't real 1911s because they are .380 ACP or 9mm, but not 45 ACP. Please educate me as I have no idea what you're talking about. Thanks.
BTW, the grips that i'm designing and testing right now is for full size or officer's model 1911. Yes, the grips are textured.