Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

ekalfwonS

Planetary Gearset 04

by ekalfwonS Feb 19, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

I'm apparently a complete idiot at this. I can't get mine to break loose. I can't even get the 3mm wrench into the gears to try. Had to press fit them in practically. What did you mean by resolution .010? That might be my mistake. I may not have been fine enough. Have the Prusa i3 Mk2 and using PLA.

Sorry, my brain fart... Resolution should have been 0.10, as in 0.10 mm layer height. I mis-typed.

Can you get a 3mm tool into the gears from the top of the part (ie. not the side on the print bed)? If not, then you've got a scaling issue, or your printer is putting out a little more material on each line than it needs to. You probably have an elephant-foot issue as well with the first layer or two or three. It's very common for those layers to spread more than the rest, on my prints those are the only parts that are "bound" after printing and need to be separated. With tweaking of the settings for your printer you can affect this... Slicr has controls for elephant-foot compensation, and/or you can change (reduce) the first layer height and width as well which may help.

Printing all-at-once assemblies is not always easy... Clearances may also be affected by how much different materials spread. Nozzle and bed temps may play a factor here as well (i'm using 60 bed / 215 extruder for first layer, 60 bed / 210 extruder for subsequent layers on mine). Also note I have upgraded to the new magnetic bed, the spread, bonding, etc. characteristics of which may vary from the stock fixed Mk2 bed.

Super model. Thanks!
Printed on a Qidi X Pro with normal 20% infill. Managed to get all planetary gears to break free ok.
Just trying to figure how to put this to good use... :-)

I've found the best use for mine is to have it on my desk where I can fidget with it... :)

Probably could have gone with smaller tolerances. Printed on my mk3 and there was not binding of the gears at all and everything is a bit loose.

Interesting. How easy is it to put a 3mm or 4mm hex key in the holes in the planets and sun gear? I found on mine that after popping the gears free that there was still a small amount of connection (probably from stringing) between some of the gear faces. It took some working back and forth to get everything going smoothly, and now after using it for a while it is looser. Maybe your printer is dialed in better and can produce better parts than mine. I don't think reducing the gap below 0.1mm would work for me, I don't think i'd be able to get anything rolling...

Works great, printed with ABS at 0.30mm layers and 0.6mm nozzle.
Would be great to see a version with outter dents to able to stack them or even run a belt

Could you post a photo? I'm curious how "jagged" that looks... I've only tried these with .1mm layers and .4mm nozzle. Did you have any issues with the gears releasing after printing? Or was just a little flexing enough to release them?

I'm trying to understand your request... Outer dents? Do you mean teeth on the outside diameter of the outer gear, that could be engaged with a second gear? Or do you mean extending the axes from one or more of the inner gears so they could be engaged?

Sure i will post my make soon. I print with 0.3mm to speed up and also to test my new fume filter. About releasing the gear it was a bit harder than 0.4mm for sure, i use a strong screwdriver to make the first aproach and then i use the hex key as second round, as i print with ABS i use a good amount of force without problem or damaging, i even move gears to the left or right with heavy force. The only problem i have is each +/- 30º step it require more force/get a bit sutck, maybe some leftover or deformation, i have inspected but can't find it, look at every teeth and gear but is very hard to find where is the problem, but with some more torque i can rotate everything.
My request is exactly "teeth on the outside diameter of the outer gear, that could be engaged with a second gear"

Got it. I think the sticking is probably just residue from how close the teeth are during printing. If you move one of the arms on the sun gear from one planet to the next, that's about a 30° rotation, and about a half-turn of one of the planet gears. That would move the touch point during printing from the inside to the outside. I have noticed this as well, but it feels to me to be less prominent than you describe... But I am using PLA which is a little softer. Mine did smooth out after a bit of fidgeting back and forth. I've made two now and they both roll quite freely, or as freely as I can detect given what we're working with.

I'll see what I can do about putting teeth on the outside... The number of teeth in this model is already pushing the limits of my system here at work, but i've only got 12G RAM on this computer. I have the educational version of SW on my home computer, with 16GB RAM and a better processor... It might do better.

O post my make.
Wow that huge RAM for such thing, you have realtime render ON? I use inventor, it only take huge amount of time and load when i put real time render and view