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mediaman

Hero Me for CR-10S Pro

by mediaman Feb 17, 2019
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I commented here a while ago because I love this thing, the airflow is insane, I get themost ridiculous overhangs without support now.

BUT having to have the offset is causing myself wayyyy too much drama, I know a lot of people can’t get the ABL readings to save whilst having the offset needed.

Thinking outside of the box is there a way you’d be able to design the dual mount so that the left hand fan sits slightly further forward, so the original bed level mount still works? If this would work obviously we wouldn’t need offsets, ABL would be perfect again and we’d have the insane airflow you’ve created. And also any progress made with tiny machines th3d etc would mean we can literally just flash a firmware and print, no more hassle settings offsets for each firmware try.

Looking at where the fan sits, where the sensor used to sit I think it’s definitely possibly, it wouldn’tlook as sleek as this does but I think it would be worth it.

I just finished printing this awesome looking fan duct.
However it seems not to fit on my CR-10S PRO. :(
The airflow is not pointing on the area below the nozzle and the BLTouch is colliding with the dual fan duct although i printed the longer mount.
Did i use the wrong files or got something wrong?

I will check the the dual 5020 and dual 4020 cooling ducts against the latest CR-10S Pro specs and adjust as needed the position of the duct exhausts.There is a second version of the BLTouch mount that is designed for the dual 5015, it looks from your picture that you may have printed the BLTouch mount for the single 5015 cooling duct. I have not tested the BLTouch mount on a dual 5020/4020 cooling duct, as those mounts were created by special request and they were not using BLTouches. I will have to check the design files and adjust accordingly. I return from a business trip on May 28th.

I'm running the dual 5020 setup and my ducts also seem offset and not centered front to back in relation to the nozzle. Is that intentional?

I have a stock standard cr10s pro. If I just want to add the dual fan duct, do I have to compile marlin with the offsets and upload it to the printer?

Yes, because adding the Hero Me Gen2 to a CR-10S Pro with a dual 5015 fan duct will move the position of the ABL sensor. If you were to not use the sensor, then you would not need to change the sensor offset, but I do not know if that would cause other needed changes (I don't have a CR-10S Pro to test the firmware.

Here is the fix provided by TM3D for use with the Hero Me Gen2. https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin and if you go to issues and look for "CR-10S Pro, ABL data different after restart machine " or strait to the link below, someone already compiled the fix for the Hero Me. https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/issues/22 .

Well I have printer all the parts out of PETG and they look and fit great until i realized there is no way to update the configuration.h file in the stock 1.60.71 firmware from creality. So I pulled it back off and went stock until there is a solution to update. I assume we are at the mercy of creality to release the source code? I even looked into the tiny machines firmware but that is just a compiled HEX as well. I have such a love hate relationship with this printer.

Here is the fix provided by TM3D. https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin and if you go to issues and look for "CR-10S Pro, ABL data different after restart machine " or strait to the link below, someone already compiled the fix for the Hero Me. https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/issues/22 .

really helps a lot! thanks

I also prefer stock 1.60.71, auto leveling before print is fixed in this update, and energy saving mode works fine. Would like to have Creality releasing the source code. Now I'm using TinyMachine3D marlin source code (1.1.9 B6) to do the probe offset. It fixed probe offset issue, but created some new issues that I don't know how to fix as I'm also a newbie in 3D printing. I don't know if there any difference between source code version and HEX version of TM3D firmware, as everyone is recommending it over Creality's stock firmware. My current issues are:

  1. Not too severe but 16 points auto leveling before print doesn't work (stock 1.60.3 doesn't either but 1.60.71 fixed it)
  2. Leveling Z-axis calibration makes 0mm. It was always 0.2mm on both stock 1.60.3 and 1.60.71. It complicated the leveling procedure using 0.2 feeler gauge that CR-10S Pro comes with. And it also caused easy Z-axis calibration inaccuracy sometimes.
  3. Energy Saving Mode seems not functional properly as it supposed to. I might be wrong about this, but with stock firmware this mode on, the heated bed will automatically turn off heating after some initial layers, since the first layer is already get stuck firmly, the heated bed is no longer needed.
  4. While printing, -Z offset for the most time doesn't work well. Because of the Z calibration procedure issue (0mm default Z height) that I just mentioned, after a probe auto leveling, the Z offset is usually set to around -2mm or -1.7mm automatically, it usually works fine. But when sometimes it doesn't, after +Z a great amount, I can't -Z back to the start value, it will stuck at some value that is mich higher than I wanted to. E.g. Z offset starts automatically at -1.90, after I changed it to -1.10 I can't go back to -1.90 or even lower, it get limited to -1.21, can't go any lower. I can't compare it with stock firmware, because I never got into this kind of situation - dramatically change Z offset.

Well anyway, this TM3D 1.1.9 B6 works just fine, but above mentioned problem is also pain in the ass sometimes, especially when getting used to stock 1.60.71 firmware. As new as I am I didn't find any particular good about TM3D firmware, but I am sure it has to be better since everyone said so.

Maybe the source code need more tuning, above mentioned problem have to have a way to fix. But it beyond my knowledge. I really hope someone could help me about it. Or hope creality could release 1.60.71 source code soon.

I have been using this cooling system with a 18 mm inductive proximity sensor ( LJ18A3-8-Z/BX) instead of the Creality inaccurate capacitive probe and the combination works great. The prints are way better than with the old cooling system. The 12 mm proximity sensor (LJ12A3-4-Z/BX) is a lot more accurate than the 18 mm inductive proximity sensor I am currently using and is nearly as accurate and repeatable as the Prusa PINDA probe.

Do you have any plans to update a mounting arm to accept a 12 mm sensor? This would be a great improvement on leveling accuracy.

Thank You,
Jason Cook

It's a very useful info about 12 mm proximity sensor (LJ12A3-4-Z/BX) being better than 18 mm inductive proximity sensor ( LJ18A3-8-Z/BX). But why a shorter sensor is more accurate than a longer one of the same kind?

I do not know why the smaller inductive sensors are more accurate but watch this video that tests the sensor precision. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY&t=1s
I have attached is the sensor precision results from the video.

There are lots of testing assumption flaws in Tom's tests of sensor probes that have been called out by others. The capacitive sensors offered by Creality are very cheap quality and do not properly work with glass surfaces or heated beds. I have all my printers using the EZABL sensor that works with all bed surfaces and both DC and AC bed heaters. https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezabl-pro-plug-print-auto-bed-leveling-kit/

FYI for anyone wondering, if you're going to be printing polycarbonate (Nozzle 290C, Bed 120C), my fan ducts started melting/drooping when made from PETG. So I'm going to be reprinting the duct in PC to hopefully fix that.

If you do not have one, get and place a silicone insulating sock on the hot-end. Also try printing in ABS if possible, or anneal a PTEG version of the parts cooling duct by heating it in the oven. There are many YouTube videos on how to do this safely (lowest temp possible for only an hour or so).

Might work? The thing started dropping for me so I'm not sure annealing would help any since it didn't break, it sagged. I already have the silicone sock, I think it was the heat from the bed combined with the fan off for the first layer. I reprinted in polycarbonate and haven't had any issues since.

I printed only the duct (Hero_Me_Single_5015_Duct_Gen2d) for testing. The design looks great in the slicer, but when printed out, its really disappointing. But this is a problem by design of these ducts. A 5015 or 4020 is not made to create positive air pressure. They made to move air with no restriction on the in- and outtake. That means, you need a very high RPM to push enough air trough these tiny channels with so many corners. Ergo, its very noisy. If you lower the voltage, or PWM signal phase, there is almost no airflow at the end of the nozzle.
If you have a duct design with no corners, you can run a 5015 at 5V with a higher airflow compared to this design @12V.

I find that the 5015 radial fan at 50% to 70% fan speed on the Hero Me Gen2 is more than enough (exceptionally better than stock) to cool any part (and quieter as well). I am able to bridge 150mm with no drooping of filament. But I have heard other comments that the internal U bend used to balance the air flow path length may be to restrictive. So, I have created a newer version that is in testing now that removes the internal U bend air flow. This version has a straight path for each duct. The two duct ports are 50% of the sq. mm size of the duct intact (which is the right ratio for the best positive air pressure. I have attached it for your consideration.

Could you possibly create a direct drive unit for the 10s Pro? Utilizing a BMG Extruder, BLtouch, either stock or Microswiss hotend, single 5015, and using the stock extruder stepper motor. I'm also considering doing the same for my regular 10s.

this is what im thinking about

Comments deleted.

I had some trouble in the beginning with assembly but I got it. And WOW is all I can say. I have been running 2 Pro's for 5 months now all stock and thought they printed well. After the new duct the prints are so much better. Just want to thank you for getting these for us. I have been waiting for a while for someone to pop out a duct for the Pro. Thanks

I saw your message that you were having problems (later deleted). I'm sorry you had troubles at the start. I don't have a CR-10S Pro to test against. I have been working from photos, measurements sent in from users, and feed back from several is that it works great. I will review your other comments to see if I can improve it so that others do not have the same troubles. Thanks so much for choosing the Hero Me Gen2. I appreciate the feedback!

I had a bad day and of course things did not go well with the parts. I had issues with the sensor mount breaking below the mount screw holes so I bumped it up to 100 infill. As it printed you could see the part was separated and did not become one for many layers. Then I had trouble with my sensor wire being short so I got it out of the loom and made it work (factory issue) I ended up tapping m4 threads in the sensor mount for M4 setscrews as the setscrews in the stock mount were not a good fit. The base was a bear to get on had to pry it right near the thermistor and heat block wires do not like messing with those wires much but I got it. I am so happy I stuck with it because it works great. I have Petsfangs and Bullseyes on all my other printers 12 in all. They really are well thought out and they assemble very nicely. I think yours does a better job because it was like night and day when I started using yours. I saw improvement with my prints when I changed to the fangs but not like yours. I guess I thought I was printing as well as I could with the pro's (do a good job) but when i went with your duct it blew me away. The layers were all but invisible. I have got that on a rare day but now its every print. I was upset this morning and I apologize for spewing but nothing but praise from now on! Thanks again

Comments deleted.

A few questions about printing this design because I am printing it in PETG and I have had two failed prints.

1) What orientation do you print the base and the duct

2) I have been printing with supports but they are really hart to remove. What support settings do you recommend

3) do you have any recommendations on Infill and walls settings?

I want to share my experience printing the base by answering your questions.

1)
*it's only about THE BASE

a. With the original print orientation, I found the weak point at the thin link to the screw mount on the left side, mine is broken at some random careless pressure.

b. Then I tried to flip 90 degree by making the bottom setting on the bed, it went well, the above mention weed point get much structurally stronger. The only down side is the overhang at the front-bottom side (under the hot-end fan mount surface) is very ugly. Yes, it could be hide by the duct pipe, but I want to try something otherwise.

c. I reedited the model in 3D software by rotating it by around 50 degree (forgot exact angle), making the fan mounting surface completely horizontal, parallel to the printing surface, facing upwards. Then the overhang area is pretty small and completely hided behind and also covered by the duct pipe, no way to see it. the fan mounting surface is not pretty but you will mount a fan to hide it anyway. The structural strength is also great, if not better than the orientation plan b. So this is my final print and application version.

Duct I used a 4020 remix, printed in mounting orientation. It looks beautiful. I recommend in this orientation instead of the default orientation, you want this mod looking good.

2) I will also recommand tree support in cura.

3) I used 35% infill for base, 50% infill for ABL mount piece. Wall setting by default (0.8mm wall, 0.6 bottom and top)

I hope this is helpful

A1: I printed in PETG in the default orientation that CURA loaded them.

A2: I used tree supports, touching build plate only

A3: I left wall settings stock and I think I did 35% infill.

I printed it in PLA with the front on the base in Simplify3D with the normal supports.

There is no way the normal supports are coming out.

I'm going to try Supports from Base Only and see if that works. When I sliced it, it created the part with no internal supports.

I got this to print using cura and tree supports however you may need to disable or reduce cura's jerk setting. I got a slight layer shift on my duct and not sure if that will affect performance but I am going to reprint.

Cura 4
Tree Supports
20% infill
PETG

Thanks! I ended up getting it to work last night with the supports from base only in Simplify3D. I added a few supports to the external brackets and the opening for the fan. Came out perfect.

I have added a note to the summary that ALL parts are to be printed with supports from the base/build plate only. This info is in all the other Hero Me Gen2 (and original) makes, but I missed adding it to the CR-10S Pro version. This is now corrected.

I printed up the Dual 5015 for BLTouch, just letting you know that the BLTouch_wing_for_Dual_5015_Gen2b is a couple mil to short.

This has been fixed and a new version posted.

Comments deleted.

I’ve been away in Florida for a few days (back tonight). I will be able to make adjustments to it this week.

I couldn't wait. Needed to get this on the printer so I went ahead and fixed it.

I see the same issue with the dual when I fit it together with the fans. How would this modification affect the offsets?

Comments deleted.

I'm leaning towards this design over the petsfang. Will this work with a micro swiss hot end upgrade?

Yes, it will work with the Micro Swiss.

I think so, this is my plan.

Yes, it will work with the Micro Swiss.

not sure if this was intended, but the fan ducts aren't centered front to back(y axis) to the nozzle of the micro swiss full metal hot end. I need to see if the nozzle is offset from stock. The micro swiss nozzle ends up towards the bakc 1/4 of the ducts.

Mediaman,
Thank you for the great model! Installing it now and noticed that you don't mention screws to hold the fan duct to the base in the details and your pictures don't have screws there either. Are these screws not necessary? Added a picture of the screw location in question.

Sorry, yes screws are needed. Even though the setup can be a snug fit, vibration from printing will cause the cooling duct height to change without screws. This is setup for use with M3 screws, 8-10mm should be sufficient. No nut should be necessary on the back side as the holes are of the right size that the screws can self tap into the base. I will update the summary. My other versions of the Hero Me have these details.

Thanks so much mediaman! I have made a few small changes to the base and inductive ABL sensor mount and posted a build guide for this. So far everything fits great and I'm getting great result printing PLA!

Build guide here: https://www.buildxyz.xyz/creality-cr-10s-pro-hero-me-build-guide/

Awesome! Great build guide! I had added through holes in the base to loosen/tighten the screws on the hot-end. Did you download the one before I did that, or was it that my holes were not large enough? My design choice for those holes was not to make them large enough to pass the M3 screws through. I am curious to your reason. Was it for convenience, or was it that the smaller holes was not sufficient to help with the reassembly (or later removal)? Also (as I do not have a CR-10S Pro to test against), I am curious why you have to remove the whole build plate from the X gantry? This is not necessary on a CR-10S (or Ender 3).

Oh I didn’t realize you had made a version with holes. I thought I had downloaded a very recent version as well. The holes I found are a good option to introduce some play when installing the base. So the holes were for the same purpose as yours, just to get an Allen key through. I also shaved 2mm off the back as the original design rubbed on my 2020 rail.

I feel removing the gantry is necessary to tighten up the mounting bolts as the previous probe mount is not threaded on the gantry plate.

Thanks so much for creating this awesome system!

Ahh ok. Yep you had downloaded an earlier version, as I also had feedback on the 2020 rail issue, so I also trimmed the 2mm off the clip on the back to make room. Right, they went to through holes for the sensor mount with the screws feeding from behind, got it. FYI, the two links in your Summary of your make to the Air Duct and Fan guide are broken. I get an error 404 when I click them.

Noted and fixed. Thank you sir!

So I just compared your remixed ABL sensor mount to my current one, and yep they are the same. So while part of me is very sorry that you had issues, enough to remix my early parts for the CR-10S Pro to work for you. The other part of me is not sorry, because we all got the benefit of your great build guide! Would you mind updating your build guide to let readers know that my parts are updated to the same specs you had to tweak your remix to, as I would like to add a link to your build guide from my make.

Sure I can definitely do that, is the inductive ABL mount updated for an 18mm sensor?

Yes, it was done at the same time I corrected the base for the 2020 rail clearance. Which was after you downloaded the files, but before you posted your remix. Thanks!

Jesus this is perfect, thanks so much dude. Do you have any idea on how to set the offset? I’m using tiny machines, but it was a pre configured hex so I’m lost with how to do it.

Also I have dual 5015’s so I guess I’ll need to print the “hero me dual 5015”, “hero me ezabl dual 5015” and the base, I can’t see fixing holes on the sensor mount though?

Here is what I changed in configuration.h for tinymachines build 1.1.9 B5. Using the Dual 5015 fans and standard ABL.

if ENABLED(ABL_EZABL) || ENABLED(ABL_NCSW)

#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -53  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -11  // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]

endif

How did you access the configuration.h file? All I am able to find for the Tinymachines firmware is the .hex file and not the entire firmware set...

Hello hopper18,
This is a difficult question to answer as it is not an easy process especially if you are unfamiliar with the Arduino IDE. Recommend only attempting this if you have several spare hours. Google is your friend and you can search for "marlin arduino guide" and come up with several references.

I couldn't find a guide specific to the tinymachines firmware for the CR-10s Pro but this one is close, http://3daddict.com/beginner-guide-marlin-printer-firmware/. This guide is for setting up marlin vanilla for the Delta Kossel Mini but several of the steps apply.

Here's a quick overview of the steps to complete from this guide. Again google is your friend if you get stuck. Complete the following sections of the guide:

Arduino IDE

Download and install the IDE. I don't think you need to install the u8glib or LiquidCrystal libraries.

Downloading Marlin Firmware

Instead of downloading the firmware mentioned in the guide, download it from https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/Creality_DWINTest. Follow the same steps outlined to download it.

Configuring Marlin Firmware

Skip "Example Configurations"
Complete "Opening the Marlin.ino file"and "Arduino Board Settings".
Configuration.h File - this is where most of the settings are configured. Scroll down and find the following header

//===========================================================================
//============================= Z Probe Options =============================
//===========================================================================

Just below this is where you set the offsets. Look for the following diagram, the probe offsets are right below it.

    +-- BACK ---+
    |           |
  L |    (+) P  | R <-- probe (20,20)
  E |           | I
  F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)
  T |           | H
    |    (-)    | T
    |           |
    O-- FRONT --+

See notes below (marked with #####) for which section to edit. This begins on line 1131.

#elif ENABLED(MachineCR10SPro) && ENABLED(HotendStock)
  #if ENABLED(ABL_BLTOUCH).  ##### Edit this section if you're using the BL Touch 
    #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -41  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]
    #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -8  // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
    #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]
  #endif

  #if ENABLED(ABL_EZABL) || ENABLED(ABL_NCSW) ##### Edit this section if you're using the stock bed level sensor
    #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -27  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]
    #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0  // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
    #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]
  #endif

Compile Marlin Firmware - Follow this to check for errors in the code and to upload it to your printer. Make sure your slicing software is closed as it will conflict with the Arduino IDE software.

Hope this helps and at least points you in the right direction.

Stock ABL firmware offset for the Dual 5015 fan duct is: -50 X and -8 Y. I don't know how it is set with the Tiny Machines firmware, as I use the TH3DStudio.com Unified firmware. For me it is set in the configuration.h file.

Do you happen to know what the offsets are for the single 5015 mount is?

For the ABL (and EZABL) mount for a 5015 fan duct, the Marlin firmware offsets are -45X -9Y.

PETG preferred, especially if you want to print ABS (but that needs an enclosure). I have all my Hero Me cooling systems printed in PLA, using them for months with no issues. But YMMV (your milage may vary).

Will this fit the stock fans? Im not seeing how the side fan fits after printing.

EDIT

After READING (lol) I see that it does not. Does anyone know of a hero me that will fit? I love me some Hero Me ducts.

I have a Dual 4020 parts cooling fan duct posted on one of the other Hero Me cooling systems. With the exception of the E3D Volcano version, all the cooling ducts are interchangeable across all Hero Me systems. I will add the Dual 4020 to this Make. Stefire has done a great remix for the single 4020 fan.

I remixed a parts cooling duct that uses the stock 4020 fan mount. Check under Remixes. I am printing a 2nd Generation one with a better mount that includes the new ducts that mediaman just updated. might upload new one later tonight if it prints well.

I have added the remix 2nd generation duct for the stock 4020 fan. It printed nicely.

Has anyone tried this with the microswiss all metal hotend? I have been looing for a new fan setup for the cr-10s pro but i added a microswiss hotend and not sure if this will work.

I think it should work fine. The setup and spacing on this Hero Me is based upon the stock hot-end parts for the CR-10S Pro, but the Micro Swiss heat sink is smaller (depth and width) than the Creality E3D clone.

If you want to be sure before you print simply measure the depth front to back and the width side to side, that the Micro Swiss uses vs. the Creality heat sink. If you think there is still an issue, sent me two pictures of your Micro Swiss mounted to the CR-10S Pro back plate (one straight one, and one from the top looking down). From that I can adjust the Hero Me Base to accommodate the Micro Swiss hot-end.

Height should not be an issue as the parts cooling duct has a lot of vertical adjustment room.

Can't you check the photos I posted below? I think the MicroSwiss hot end is offset and we could benefit from an adjusted base I think.

Your fan ducts fit with the micro swiss hot end. however, I think the ducts need to be adjusted. I will take pics and measurements tonight.

Here is a picture of what I think Keith89 is saying - this is a Micro Swiss hot end and the single 4020 fan air duct. The duct output doesn't seem centered with the nozzle. Is that intentional?

yes, that is exactly what I'm referring to. Is that normal?

Going to print that dual fan mount with ABL for sure! Will post up when finished and installed.

Thanks for choosing the Hero Me! Looking forward to it!

Hello, thank you for the designs. How do you set the Marlin firmware offset? Can you list which variables?

I'm sorry I don't know the variable in Marlin. I use the Unified Firmware U1.R2.7 (Marlin 1.1.9) from www.th3dstudio.com. They have a very convenient preset in their version of the configuration.h file. Unfortunately they have not updated their firmware to have presets for the CR-10S Pro. From what I have read, CR-10S Pro users are recommending the other easy config firmware from www.tinymachines3d.com (InsanityAutomation) that is ready for the CR-10S Pro. You can get it here: https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/Creality_DWINTest?fbclid=IwAR3XqyvU82G5GmS141XoHzhaomBhBApS_LRPxfkQin1JpPv-4IPmGXR2HRc

Thanks so much for this. I like your design best of all the other options I found here.I'm new to all of this and wanted to start with my stock components, so thanks for adding the stock ABL sensor mount. Along those lines I took my first venture into modeling by using your single fan duct and adding johnchiko's 4020 adapter to it I added it as a make here. I hope that is appropriate.

Great! If you post your make as a remix thing here, you save me from making the single 4020 duct! If you don't want to manage it as updates are done, if you share the STL with me, I will be glad to post it, give you credit, and keep it updated. BTW Thanks for the monetary Tip!

Tip was the least I could do. Thanks for your hard work.Hopefully I posted it correctly.

Hi, i'm very glad you posted this, I was hoping you would modify for the Pro as well. I have a BLTouch on mine, so am eagerly awaiting the version with that mount.

Thanks for the work to do this!!

This is done. The BLTouch mounts for both single and dual 5015 parts cooling ducts are posted.

Very cool, thanks for this, I will print them up and give them a go.

Great work! Ill let you know how this turns out. Can you include the file for that awesome 40mm hot end fan cover too please?

Also - The EZABL that comes with the CR10-S PRO is secured with two grub screws, not nuts and washer the diameter of the EZABL. Unfortunately they're not provided in the kit anywhere either so perhaps the support could be modified to be slightly taller and have two grub screw holes, one above the other on the same side? That way compression from those could be slightly adjust for levelling the sensor and compressing it in place. Thank you for all your hard work!

I have added two Creality stock ABL sensor mounts that will use 2 M3 8mm screws to hold the ABL sensor in place.

I just had the calipers out to measure those grubs and you've already uploaded the part, lol! This looks great. I'll post up the make once this is all printed. Top work, sir!

Glad to be of service =) Looking forward to the results of your make. I did not know the size of the grub screws so I made the holes 3mm which when printed is a tight but manageable fit for M3 screws.

ok so far everything is looking good on fitment except the diameter of the stock sensor which requires an 18mm inner diameter to pass through freely without catching the threads. So that will need to be widened. I think your part is 16mm inner and it cant pass through at all. The other thing to note is that the two bolts that hold the hot-end in place are not accessible once the base plate (due to air ducting) is in place which makes it impossible to square once everything is on, so i would suggest two small holes for a hex tool to pass though and adjust those is quite important. The tolerances are absolutely spot on for the parts though and as you can see here its printed a dream :)

Very cool! Your parts look great! Ok, the Hero Me Base has been updated to Gen2d. It has two 2.5mm access holes lined up in front of the screw mount position of the Creality hot-end. The stock ABL sensor mount hole has been updated to 18mm.

I have added two Creality stock ABL sensor mounts that will use 2 M3 8mm screws to hold the ABL sensor in place.

The fan shroud in the pictures can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1662879

I will adapt the EZABL sensor mount, but I need to know the hole diameter for the grub screws as well as the distance between them.

40mm Fan Guard

I apologize for anyone's time I may have wasted…

Hey, thanks for making this available for the CR10S Pro. Yesterday I started modding my printer to be as silent as possible, I replaced 5 of the fans in the printer with noctua fan, the part that I'm still working on is the part cooling fan. I want to go away from the 5015 blower fan and I was going with something like this: https://imgur.com/a/rPt07Ny (found here on thingverse)

This 40x40x20 axial fan would likely be much more silent then the 5015 but it might also have less airflow which would be a problem. How would you adapt an axial fan into your design? Perhaps if someone can design a separate piece that converts an axial fan to a 5015 and then I can just use that? Maybe even 60x60x25mm to 5015 because larger fans can move more air at lower RPM

I found something similar to what I was looking for: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3262514

40mm Fan to 5015 Blower Adapter

The fluid dynamics of the air flow for those you linked are going to be all turbulence and not give you the efficient and effective cooling you want. Quality sealed bearing 5015 fans are quiet, and because of the increased air flow you don't have to run them at 100% power. I get mine from www.th3dstudio.com. The design choices around the Hero Me also include being compact and light weight. Large axial fans don't fit in the design criteria. If Noctua 4020 axial fan is what you want, I expect that those who have made the numerous cooling systems based on those fans will make versions for the CR-10S Pro.

Completely agree with your choice of 5015, plenty of pressure for cooling and much quieter, lighter and more available!

You are right! I tried creating my own design with 60x60mm axial fan and it still didn't work. I guess there isn't enough static pressure on those fans. I ended up putting the stock 4020 blower back.

I think your version using 2 x 5015 would be great because then I could run them at lower speeds, get less noise and still get good cooling. Is the version with dual blower fans and ABL sensor already available?

Yes the Dual 5015 part cooling duct and the ABL mount for use with that duct are posted.

Would you consider the original 4020 radial fan inadequate for this duct?

Others have said that the stock setup is inadequate, but I don't know if that is due to the fan or the stock duct, or both.