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Mulbot - The Mostly Printed 3D Printer

by 3DPRINTINGWORLD Mar 2, 2019
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It's in the design pictures if you blow them up, 8" x 8" x 0.13"

I'm using a different board. The BIQU KFB3.O with all the extras from amazon, the whole setup was less than $50.

Just checked, it was $35.99.

Keep getting fatal errors when I try to compile. Should I use marlin 2.0?

Finally got it...maybe. I was at least able to load firmware.

My configuration was for 1.1.9.

Your design is amazing. I tried contacting you via Instagram. Would it be possible to share the original part files? I would love to make an iteration of this machine with a special board I have, dual extruder and a heated bed! Somehow I can't get the . step file to open correctly in SolidWorks or Inventor. Thank you in advance! Can't wait to have my Mulbot Running.

Strange, people have confirmed that the files open in both Inventor and Solidworks.... Maybe you have old versions?

I am running 2019 versions of both. Yesterday I finally got it to open in SolidWorks (had to disable “3D interconnect” option in the import settings) but unfortunately the feature recognition did not work properly so I think I will be modifying the solid bodies instead or maybe re-model some parts. Once again, I have to say, great design :) cheers!

I got the Bigtree kfb3.0 Ramps1.6 board. That's what is causing my issues. Can't get marlin to load.

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I have everything printed. Having trouble understanding how to install Marlin though.

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Thank you for the upload. Mine isn't as nice, I used alot of my partial spools so it's many different colors. Had some issues with the heatset inserts but was able to fix that with a 3d pen, the holes are to big for the amazon inserts.

The type with the large knurls? The ones I used were available on Amazon but it does not look like they are anymore... I just purchased 1000 of these even smaller M3's, I'm going use those for my designs from now on.

I also cannot find the .stl's for DL1-2-17 or DL1-2-18. Where can I get these?

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Sorry, I must have forgotten them.... I just added them.

BTW... Cant wait to see it!

I have everything printed except the feet and the ramps box, however I can't get the ramps box to print. It keeps clogging my printer. any suggestions?

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There is lots of retraction so I would guess that the issue is heat creep from to much retraction. Try turning your retraction down.

Comments deleted.

Not sure what you are asking? For what parts? I have links to most of the purchased components.

I made the question too ambiguous. I'm sorry.
Finding 3DPW parts is difficult.
I tried to find it on the official sales site and could not find it.

Oh, Sorry. There is no official site, this is it. Until l can update the reprap.org page.

im waiting for my geeetech a10 to print the mulbot :) almost finish the Snappy 3.0 awesome project too!

This is awesome. Great job and thanks for sharing. I will keep an eye out for the hardware kit!

I have not sourced the kit as it as not been requested by enough people. You can by pretty much what you need bolt by bolt it just takes a while.

DL1-3-03 isn't included in the download zip. Could this be address?

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Its in the file section?

Is there any chance to make a bl-touch mount to make automatic bed leveling ? Could you share the firmware also. Thank you and congrats for this beautifull 3D printer.

I know some people have expressed a interest in this on our Facebook group. Maybe check there first to see if anyone has made one yet.

there is the way you can cut those pieces bigger adapt it to my base

I included a "stp" file of the assembly so people can make their own modifications.

congratulations friend thanks for the contribution, when they told me about this project I did not believe but now my congratulations to you, I have two machines to do it and the base is 20 x 20 will serve all the pieces or I have to get another larger ?

I afraid that it might be just slightly to small.... My volume is 210mm x 250mm and the parts just fit.

Comments deleted.

great job and you have a select mini do you like it i might buy one

Can it work with bearing balls of 4.763 mm ? Because they are really easier to source and much cheaper

No, 3/16" wouldn't work, they would be too big...

Hello, would you have an estimate of the total price of the parts?

I would guess between $250-300, if you didn't have anything on hand. It will depend on where you buy things from.

Damn mate.. This is crazy cool! Let me please take off my hat for you, before I make a big bow for your insane work. I will now follow you on every social media channel you have and I would recommend anyone else to do the same thing. You are a legend! Thx so much for sharing all your good work, much respect sir.

Ha ha..I appreciate the support, glad you like my stuff!

Too bad that this can't be 3d printed with a printer that is 200x200x200, otherwise i would definetly 3d print that, because i wanna make a project in the summer.

Oh man, sorry about that! Included "stp" files, you could always modify the parts you need to make it fit your printer.

I might cut the part in half and print the 2 halves. Then i could join the halves together and a question how much did it take you to design, model and test?

That might work but I would not try it with any of the rails. I started last year about this time and finished at the beginning of the year. Most of it was design time. Building and printing probably only took a month.

very nice thanks for sharing.any chance of your firmware pls

Can you take more pictures of the 3d printer, and what you've 3d printed with the 3d printer?

Have you seen my youtube channel? I have another video on there. Also check out our Facebook group, there are users at various stages of completion.

How long did it take for you to print the parts.

I did not keep track. However long it takes to print 2kg.

How much do all the non-printed parts end up costing?

Depends a lot on where you buy them Ali Express is cheap, but takes awhile for delivery. I figure I'll be $150

I remember seeing this on youtube! So glad to see it on here!

Supersized you seen it there first considering how may subscribers I have. lol. If you decide to build it join our Facebook group, Filastruder is giving away a couple rolls of filament to one of the builders!

My imakr start's weird extruder gave out and my e3d v6 won't fit, so I'm planning on printing this and moving all the electronica over to a mulbot!

Will do! I actually have access to some CNC Mills right now and was wondering if you had .step or solidworks files, etc. available so I could Make this out of aluminum in Mastercam. It'd be somewhat faster and more cost efficient for me rather than printing, actually!

John, I know you have to update x axis drawing DL1-04 for the new idler pulley assembly, but i found something else for your to-do list on the same drawing. There are three extra # 18s. 18 is the Y-belt, but the bearing caps are also called out as 18s. Sorry to give you more work :-).
See ya on FB ! Thanks for all you do !

I think Parker pointed this out early on. I have already updated the file names to avoid confusion, but I still need to update the assembly drawings.

I may have missed Parker's post, sorry. I'll print a new drawing when ever, no hurry, much to do ! Thanks !

Was this the one at MRRF? And your Family was there on your behalf?
This was awesome to see!

Yep, we had the printer at MRRF! Sorry I missed you, I had allergic reaction and I ended up missing most of Saturday. I'm glad that my wife and kids were able to set it up in my absence. Thanks for coming by and checking it out!

I'm new here, but wow my friend. What a story. This seems quite impressive. Just read all of the above. Maybe I have a way to try to get this going...., will you keep you posted. Thanks for working on this.

Thank you sir! If you are interested you should check out our facebook group! Lots of additional info on there and a user has already got his printer together and running! I cant wait to see all the good ideas people will come up with.

I'd be interested in a hardware kit, even if its slightly more expensive it would save me the time of sourcing individually - This is an amazing project!

Ok, I'll give it a look. I understand, I spent a lot of time getting just the right about of screws because I'm cheap...

All I can say is AWESOME! Not just this but your other collections too. Thank you for your dedication to the 3D printing community. My hat is off to you.

What he said! You sir are very creative and talented!

Thanks man! I'm just making things that I think are cool for my family and I. Being able to download them for others to enjoy is a bonus!

This is another step towards "RepRap". Now to scale it up a little so it can build its own parts and it'll be one step closer. I do like Roseland1985 idea of PETG, though. It too will print without a heated bed and has better temperature stability than PLA. However, it may flex more, so, maybe not?
Now if we can only print metal, and semi-conductors and... :)

FYI, for fictional inspiration on the ultimate RepRap machines, check out the "We are Legion (We are Bob)", Bobiverse series of books.

Thanks for posting,

That looks interesting, I'm going to check it out! Thanks!

This printer design looks pretty good! I plan on using this for my FabLab class next year as an end-of-year project for my students. When I finish writing up my lesson plan, would you like me to post it for you to add to the thing submission, so you can add an educational value to it as well?

I do have one question: Wouldn't printing in PETG be more beneficial than PLA? The temperature resistance would be much better with PETG, and it's a strong material. I'll likely test parts out with both materials to find which would be better.

You can feel free to give it a try. Let us know how it works out as I have never tried it.

Would people please report MKSA (Hit the flag button below his comments) and get him banned.
His comments are completely unwarranted and not appropriate to this site.

Ignore him. He trolls all the 3D forums and sites.

Sure did ! I'm well on my way with this project and enjoying every minute. If he can develop a better design, I'd be sure to take a look at it

Calling for mob justice ? Amusing.

Best Of the Week ??????
As practical as a bike in Lego bricks.

Not even sound from a design perspective. Even made with proper parts, worthless.
Funny metric hardware but a design in crappy inch like in the 19° century.

Indeed, COOL but a "COOL" way to unlearn.

Here is an other one: https://www.thingiverse.com/proto-plastik/about He removed all his stuff from here though; Was he ashamed ? :)

Such a waste of time and resources ! And that much plastic that will end up in the ocean !!!!

I think I am done with this site. Nothing worth in the last 5 years.

MKSA - your an idiot. You sound like the kind of person who goes out and spends thousands of pounds on a printer. Your a marketing persons wet dream. This guy will help more people get in to the hobby by teaching people about 3D printers in a way you never could. I love his design - it's brilliant!

An other mediocre mind ! Expert in boxes, spool holder and filament guides !
You guys are the plague of thingiverse with your lame, wasteful, useless "designs" driving away the few good people.
You TEACH NOTHING, bring NOTHING just waste plastic (more pollution then), make the fortunes of shady manufacturers and keep bad ideas, bad designs alive and well !

Why do you always do this, man?
Can't you just leave people be?
Why do you always crap on other people's designs?
I always see you lurking everywhere just crapping on everyone

That's because hes jealous of other people talents. Check out his profile he has VERY basic designs.

The irony is that you liked this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3310762/

Which is not useful at all.

Monoprice Select Mini Dancer Extruder Spinner

LOL..... That's funny zburrows nice comment lol

The irony is in the fact you can't see irony !

Troll much?

Good riddance!

Thanks, the mediocrity of your "design" just illustrates what this site has become.
Will check in a few weeks your "make" of this 3D printed printer. I never miss a good laugh.

Go away like you said you would. We all can't wait.

I can confirm that MKSA is moron - he will criticise everyone where his designs are complete crap, just check his profile.

looks better than snappy but still not structurally rigid.

Well, I can say that I took the printer off my desk and put it in my back seat of my car and strapped a seatbelt around it. I then drive it to a printing festival a few hours away and placed it on the table and hit start and no leveling of the bed was required. So yeah, it’s not rigid enough to stand on but it seems rigid enough to print with.

This has to be the coolest 3d printing project on the verse. You did what RapRep couldn't. My hats waaaaayyyyy off to you! Practically speaking though, the longevity may be an issue. Even steel bearings wear out pretty quickly. PLA parts will also easily warp if left in garage for example. It's cool factor is definitely the main factor.

Thanks for the kind words! The main purpose was to bring the printer to MRRF so I spent a lot of time hiding wires and such to make it look nice. Plus it was just fun to add all the little design features and since its 3D printed it doesn’t cost any more money to do so.

I'm not sure what the longevity of the bearing will be. I can say that I have at least a couple hundred hours on it and I don't see any wear on the bearing rails. You are right, since it is PLA I would be carefully where I store it.

Seeing as I already have a CR10s5 (500mm^3) to handle larger parts... Is there any reason I couldn't elongate all the rails to accommodate a 300x300 spare heat bed I have laying around?

i dont think that would be an issue but make sure the print bed (heated) does not melt and warp the plastic and such

I would only ever use a printed printer for PLA anyway, so 65°-70° bed. I'd be certain to make the at-risk pieces out of something with high heat tolerance like ASA, Nylon, maybe even PETG would be sufficient.

And thanks for all the effort and contribution to the community on this. It seems like my Ender3pro and P3Steel had a baby; especially in that steel color for the frame. :D

I would think that you would be fine increasing the length of the rails. I would find a good place to cut and extend them, but I would not try scaling the files in the slicer in one direction.

I would not try scaling the files in the slicer in one direction
Oh no, of course not. I read in an earlier comment that were going to release the raw design files, so I figured I would do a proper extension. I'm assuming I can import the STEP files to Fusion 360 though I've never done it. I've always just done my own designs and not worried about modding other people's files - yet.

Yeah, it would not be to difficult to modify the step file in Fusion. Just create a plane, separate the part, move one part, extrude the part to the other part, and join, them again. Stp files are on my to do list, my free time is just tied up now getting things ready for MRRF. I'll get it to right after MRRF though if not before.

Actually I have cloned and modified step file parts in Fusion 360 for another RepRap machine that I built from a box of parts and a step file. It was a friend's design he did several years ago. I don't remember having any problems, but they were pretty simple parts to extend and modify, so, YMMV?


Ok thanks for your response so quickly

This is really awesome!!!! My son has been wanting a printer so I think I'm gonna try to make this for him.I have a prusa mk2.5 to print with,my only problem would be the belt never had any luck with tpu,could you tell me were you got the glass bed from

Glass beds are really cheap on Amazon for this bed size. And are borosilicate glass in case you ever did want to heat it.


I would not let the TPU belt hold you back, you can also use a stock GT2 timing belt. Just order a length at least .5m long. The TPU belt has a lot of stretch anyways. https://amzn.to/2YiQqeZ

I got the bed from a local glass supplier just because they do a better job cutting it a deburring the edges, but any hardware store will normally cuts glass for you. You just need a piece 8.5" square x 1/8" thick.

Would I be able to print this on an Anycubic I3 Mega?
Its print size is 210 x 210 x 205 mm.

I think it might be just a little to small but it will be extremely close ... I designed it to print on my prusa but I did not push the limits If you get really close to your build volume it might just fit. Let me know if you find out. I would like to post which printers it fits on.

i have an i3 mega as well but i want to make this but do not have the required build volume what should i do im 14 and not too expirenced with 3d printing

Have you tried to see if the largest parts will fit? I know they do on the ender 3 and its only 10mm smaller.

I would never discourage someone from trying something new but I would think it would be beneficial to have some experience with troubleshooting printers or at least building a printer kit before you took on this project. I did start a Mostly Printed 3D Printer Facebook group so if you do run into issues or have questions I'm sure someone in the community would be happy to help you out.

well i know a little i help a close friend build his kit and some troubleshooting also what piece is the largest part?

UPDATE: the printbed chasis wont fit on the i3 mega unless scaled down to 90-93% and thats too small i think

A bit further down in the description it says this.. "Required Print Volume: 250mm x 210mm x 210mm"

Hello All!
I just created Mostly Printer 3D printer group on Facebook. I thought it would be helpfully to have a group so we can better share our ideas and help each other out. I thought the group could be about any mostly printed printer, and not just the Mulbot. If you are interested please check it out! I would love to see some pictures of your progress and if I can be any help, just let me know. I also have some update I idea's which I will share with the group. If you have any suggestions, I would love to hear them.

I too had some lifting on the Y axis frame parts with 3d Solutech PLA. Changed to eSun PLA+, same gcode, no lifting. I guess I know what filament I'll use for the rest of the frame.

Never had an issue with 3d solutech, always prints great for me.

I've always loved 3d solutech too. I tried the Y axis rail for the other side, and bumped the bed up to 70c, and got a good print.

i love my esun pla+ never had an issue

I guess I will be the first,............ may I ask for the STEP files please? I have a spare BMG Extruder and E3D V6 laying around and I would like to modify to use that instead of the E3D Lite.

I may also make it with a spare MK2 bed I have as well. That of course would change the power supply and so on and so on....

Would you be willing to share the CAD files? This is the most excited I have been since I bought my printer 3 years ago. A truly printed 3D printer! Congratulations to you for all the hard work on this. Simply amazing. I will await your response before I order parts.


First of all if you have a BMG and a V6 laying around you should send them to me!

Yes, I'll be releasing some ."step" files, but I need a little time until I can get to it.

Putting the belt on my list to look for at MRRF, hoping Printed Solid will have some. Thanks !

Good luck! Last year they were so busy I could not even get close to their table. lol

bro this is insane keep up the great work!

How long a belt ? Thanks !

You will need roughly .5 meter then cut to length at assembly. (its actually around 450mm)

Nice! I too have been tinkering with a printer 3D printer (Dollo3D) which I've got working quite nicely. Actually 2 now. I did have a look at similar bearings at one point as option (even designed a ball screw using air soft pellets), but so far Dollo mainly uses slides. When the mating surfaces are different (PLA and PETG), there seems to be very little wear. Never thought that TPU could be used as a timing belt, might have a try with that.

I've seen the Dollo on the reprap website but did not look at it in to much detail. That is a good idea to alternate materials. Does the slide on the Dollo utilize a adjustable gib? My concern with a slide would be that the required clearance could result in some slop I think the major advantage with these bearing is that the balls allow you to create some preload which reduces the amount of slop. Although I've made a slide with a adjustable gib and there is not much play in the bearing.


High Accuracy Dovetail Stepper Slide

X and Y motor mounts actually make the slide adjustable as they clamp around the rack. I use some silicone grease which seems to work best; I tried some oil but that was worse. Here's a pic of the X and Y axes on a partly built Dollo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5erg4vkb8fcwiih/2018-02-25%2014.47.52.jpg?dl=0.
There's bit of slop when janking the carraige with hand, but during printing it's not a big problem as the motors weight the thing down. Still, also due to the use of rack and pinion, there's some artifacts on the prints so it's not the best quality printer, but good for quite a lot of things.

For z I just use long printed rods (50cm on the larger version) and printed slide. Older version of that thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613202

3D Printed Linear Rail

oh my gosh this looks like a fun project for the spare parts i have laying around!

Yep, thats the most 3D printed 3D printer i think I've ever seen. Amazing

I'd be interested in a hardware kit, especially if it had the threaded inserts which shows as not available on Amazon. Thanks !

When I get a second I'll look into hardware kits.

You can also get the same inserts from mcmaster.

I think they have the instillation tip as well.

Thanks ! And thanks for the link, hadn't thought of them earlier.

Don't really need it but I want it..... Already on part number three printing it.

FYI... If you are interested in sharing your experiences, want to give or receive advise from others, or just want to post some pictures of your progress I just started a Facebook group for this purpose!


I put in a request to join, I'm about 1/3 through printing the parts on a Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus, a couple I had to orient a little strange lol. But part 1-3-3 has been a chore, long and narrow it wants to curl up on one end but I got one within spec on the fourth try. I almost have the entire bottom area from the build plate down done and a few parts from the Z frame done. Got all the metal hardware on order and a E3D V6 on hand and going to order the electronics in two weeks. Been a fun project so far. There's a couple errors in your blueprints that had me stumped for a bit but I figured it out.

If you joined the group, I added a picture yesterday showing how I was able to keep the parts from lifting off the bed with some helper discs. The good news is I designed it so the rails are on the top of the part a couple inches above the bed so by the time you get to the rail a little lifting at the bottom of the print wont hurt anything because the top of the print should still be flat. If you had to re-orientate the parts or find any errors in the drawings let me know so I can get it fixed.

On the main rails I had no issue, it was on the drive gear rail that mounts to the build plate carriage.

On the drawings the X Axis Assembly drawing, number 18 is indicated as the belt on the list but also points to the Bearing caps which are not on the list, those same bearing caps in the PDF parts list is listed as needing 9 instead of 10.

I just looked into it and yeah your are right the 18 goes to both the cap and the pulley. The cap is the same one used on the y and x axis.

Ha ha! I did not need it either but it was fun to build. I hope its the same for you.

Think this could be useful as an modification kit to my ender 3, If I can figure out how to make your design much longer I could print out larger parts for things that don't need super good accuracy.

WOWW... this is so crazy :D :D

Is this scaled so i dont have to do it myself?

Why you call it "The mostly printed 3D Printer", when there is not even a make? That's rude!

This is too funny! The title is the "Mostly 3D Printed Printer", don't forget the "ly" in mostly. Its not the "Most printed 3D printer" and its not the "Printer with the most 3D printed parts". Its simply a printer with most of its parts, 3D printed.

Cracking up here!

My brain hurts LOL

I don't think they mean the most makes.. I think they mean the MOST 3D printed parts on any printer..

I think this design it really cool. I am looking at printing one of these with my kid and using spare parts I have as a fun project.

That is great! You guys will have a lot of fun.

The hardest thing my kids had to get over is that sometimes you need to assembly things more then once for testing. It really bothered them that you have to undue their hard work. It probably took five minutes of rework, if you know what I mean. lol

Good Luck!

Buy 3D printer
Print 3D printer
Return 3D printer
Nice design, would be nice to have customizer for it to make it scalable.

Hmmmmm - interesting.

Ha Ha.

A customizer would be next level stuff!

What an awesome job what you realized ! Thank you i'm going to try to do this 3D print

I wish you the best of luck! Cant wait to see the results!

Hello, I want to propose to you, a solution for self replication using pvc tubes for electrical systems of 12/16/20 mm in diameter, this below for example

... but you can buy it at any electrical equipment store.

Beware of imperial measures as in the USA, and metric standards in almost the rest of the world.

In this way the longer parts are replaced with pvc tubes (which are very cheap), while the whole mechanism is almost the same as now.

anyway ... good job!

Yes, I've seen this before with the Piper. Its a pretty cool concept. Thanks for sharing!


Piper 1 3D Printer
by Piper3D

This is some Issac Asimov level sci-fi crap right here. "Let's make a thing maker, and that thing maker will make a thing maker, and that thing maker will make thing makers."

Very impressive, congratulation

Can I do this on the ender 3

required specs are listed as 210x210x250. If those are correct, the ender 3 should be able to handle it.

No it's 250x210x210.

I dont know for sure, it will be close. You will have to bring the Y and Z frame rails into your slicer to find out. Let us know the results?

This is brilliant! I can't wait to see it in action at MRRF! eventually I'd like to tackle this and make one of my own.

I cant wait to see what everyone brings to MRRF this year! See ya there!

your video should say "less than" instead of "less then"

its blyatiful :))) maybe some day when i got spare monnies for electoronics i will print this

Then I wish you good fortune my friend!

is it possible to print this out on an anet a8? i guess i have 215x215 x 230 or something in height. diagonal on the bed or how to align the pieces? nice work!

Oh man, that will be close but I fear that it might not fit... I had to rotate the largest parts 40 degrees on the Prusa to get them to fit but there was still a little room left. The only way to tell will be to download the files and give it a try. I cant remember if the y-axis or the z-axis rail is the largest. Let me know what you find out.

i cant print Tpu on the printer i have what size belt would i need to get.

As designed it uses a GT2 x 12mm wide TPU belt. This width is not standard, I doubled the width to try to help reduce stretching. However, if you want to use a standard GT2 x 6mm wide belt commonly used on printers just use this pulley set instead: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2847297. I'll updated the description with this information when I get a second.

GT2 Drive and Idler Pulley - w/Built in Bearings

Ok thank you i am going to mrrf so I will have to find you and view this masterpiece.

I'll be there all weekend so come on by!

can this be printed on a 140x140x140 print volume

Sorry but nope... I designed it to fix in the volume of my Original Prusa MK3, 25cm x 21cm x 21cm. Just buy a MK3, everyone should have one anyways. JK, but it is a awesome printer if you can afford one.

i want an a8 with a smoothieboard and tmc2208 drivers and a e3d titan aero hot end/extruder

Ugg.... I don't get the fascination with the A8 but I'm not a big tinkerer when it comes to my printers either.

It's cheap and easily upgradable

Yeah, that's what I figured. I purchased my first to printers used to save money.

Now, I like my MK3, the only thing I need to upgrade is the firmware.

Heading to work in a few minutes so I don't have time to go over the whole project till tonight, but I wanted to point out one thing. You talk about it not being 'self replicating" because it cannot print rails that are larger than it's existing build volume. This isn't as much of a problem as you make it out to be. If the rails are printed in ABS they can easily be glued together. ABS solvent welds things as strong as if they were the same piece.

Of course there are several other reasons it's not "self replicating" but I wanted to point out that build volume doesn't have to be an excuse.

Holy crow, this is crazy! What software did you design it in? Does it print reliably?

I'm getting pretty good quality out of it, I have a couple more clips on my youtube channel if you want to see more. Its not going to replace my Prusa Mk3 or anything.

Oh, I designed it in Inventor as I also use it professionally but I probably should have used fusion as that's what most people are using now days.

Very well done sir! This is a fantastic build and you've inspired me to do the same :)

That's great! I cant want to see what everyone does with it.

Looks like a great learning project, and I can gift it to my nephews after it's done. It's in my to do list!

You got that right! That sounds like a win-win situation.

Looks awesome!! Can't wait to see it at MRRF!! Will definitely have to make me one of these, i have most of the parts already!!
Great job!

Cant wait to show everyone! Only a couple of week to go. See ya there!

Where’s the hot plate oh ya you can’t have one on that because it’s plastic...lol

Ha ha! But.... I think a headed bed would work with a little design change, I haven't looked into it though. I like the look of the floating glass bed plus I have been having really good luck with PLA and a little glue stick.

I bet it would work stock if you printed a few parts in polycarbonate. Which isn't terribly hard on the MK3.

It looks good but if you want to print something that requires a heated bed your screwed.

Snappy is 85% printed and it has a heated bed:


Snappy Reprap v3.0
by Revar

I do not plan on printing anything on this printer except PLA and TPU.

Beautiful piece! I may still use your bearings someday in my own printer. Just out of curiosity, do you think this design would scale up at all? Say, would 200mm cubed worth of printable volume be possible?

Thanks buddy! Yes, I think it can me modified to a 200mm cubed print volume. You can't scale it up but the rails could be lengthened. Its pretty close now with the dual fan, mostly you would need more Z. I made it as big as I could but I was contained to the build volume on my MK3.

Now this is awesome !
I don't have much experience is electronics and stuff but I'll try to adapt this to the hardware I got left form my old Prusa Hephestos (RIP)
Thanks for sharing !

You should have most of the parts you need then! Updating the firmware should not be too difficult.

I don't plan to make this (I have 2 printers which are a handful), but wanted to say this is awesome!

Thanks! Same here, I don't really have a use for the printer. I made it for the fun of designing and building it and to bring it to MRRF. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it after MRRF.

Clicking the "Like" button doesn't say enough. Very cool, very well done and great project documentation!

awww shucks... :) Designing and building it was a lot of fun but the documentation was a lot of work! haha

Glad to see this finished and published! I'll be starting the build process tonight!