This is a remix of the Petsfang system (E3D v6 version) that converts the Ender 3/Creality bowden extruder gear into direct drive mod, e.g. moves the stepper motor/extruder gear on top of the E3D v6 hotend.
The creator of Petsfang isn't allowing to link remixes anymore, but it's essentially a remix of the original Petsfang and the direct extruder version.
I also need to give credit to this guy for giving me the idea. He's already got some Creality direct drive mods. I just fashioned one for Petsfang.
I'm using the MacEwen3D all metal extruder gear, but I imagine this would work with the stock or other all metal extruder gears out there for the Ender 3/Creality machines. There may be a slight difference in alignment from the extruder gear filament outlet to the E3D v6 hotend, but I imagine this could be resolved with some washers. Also, a slight bend in the filament feed isn't going matter.
I maintained using the 3 longer screws that came with the MacEwen3D extruder gear and, in place of the shorter screw (that ends up underneath the retractable arm), I used a screw (and lock washer) that is normally used to clamp the heater cartridge onto the E3D v6 heater block.
You may have to get creative with the screws you use to mount the extruder gear and stepper motor. This kind of stuff is DIY.
The rest of the assembly is the same as described by the Petsfang installation.
When mounting the hotend I first put the PTFE tube into the hotend and then slide it up into the extruder gear filament out.
There's also PTFE going into the extruder gear's filament in, same as you would with the normal [bowden] configuration for the MacEwen3D extruder gear.
You can get creative with how you guide the filament into the hotend and do whatever works best for you.
The 40mm cap I'm using is the same as the one found in the original package.
The one included in the direct extruder version seems to be the same, but includes some space to feed the hotend wires through.
I'm sure either or will work.
The fan duct used is the E3D version from the direct extruder package.
- Less retraction which should reduce the likelihood of jamming, specifically with softer filaments.
- Piggybacks reduced retraction, but should result in more consistent filament flow.
- No more wasting that last 500mm of filament :P
- It's heavier. Not so heavy that it's going to ruin your prints or machine, but when the motors are disengaged it definitely has a chance of sliding down the Z axis. I work around this by not disabling the motors when a print finishes (print end script) and being sure to home Y (bed) before shutting the machine off, so that the nozzle doesn't hit the bed if it slides down.
- Increased [motor current] vibration. This isn't a guarantee, but I had moire lines appear after performing this mod. A TL-Smoother on the extruder stepper motor resolved it.
I highly recommend printing 100% infill. This is a functional piece and needs to hold up the stepper motor, extruder gear, and hotend. The amount of filament and time required for 100% infill as opposed to anything less is negligible. I've printed this with both Simplify3D and Slic3r Prusa Edition using their auto support generation, and they printed successfully.
Print the duct and fan cap as described by the Petsfang installation.
Any higher strength and temperature resistant filament, such as PETG or ABS, is the best option for functional hotend parts.