This is called “The MAKER lamp” because it can be easily made by every maker with just some common hardware that everyone of us maybe has already in her/his house!
It’s very fast to print (about an hour) and needs very little filament (about 10g).
It’s compatible with the Original Prusa frame and all the 2020/2040 v-slot frames like the famous Bear Upgrade for Prusa, Creality CR-10, Ender, Tevo, and so on!!
It’s modular and at the moment you can choose between:
- 10x10 L-shape Aluminum profile (called “T-cap”) - 2 pieces back to back
- 20x18 E-shape Aluminum profile (called “E-cap”)
You can cut these profiles based on your needs (or style!)
It will dissipate heat generated by the leds (less than 50°C/122°F with 2 led strips after some hours so it can be printed with almost every material)
You can use almost all kind of led lights and it has been tested with both of these:
- (two) led strips
- a 170mm COB
It’s neat because you can hide wires inside the brackets (tested with 2x 22AWG without problems, up to 1x 14AWG)
It's high customizable since all .step files are included! Enjoy :)
Take a look below for the Instructions!
I suggest to print it without supports at 0.2mm.
3 perimeters is best
I added always the left part: to get the right one just mirror (or flip) with your slicer!
This is an example plate:
I suggest you to use
2x 10mm M3 hex head screws (12mm is fine too)
2x M3 hex nuts + 2x 10mm M3 screws (button head for example)
you can even avoid light tilt and use fixed screws (2x 10mm M3 screws + 2x M3 nuts)!
If you will use it on a 2020 frame you will need also:
2x t-nuts and their screws (or just print something like this )
Assembling this light is really simple:
1) cut the Aluminum profile based on you leds
If you will use COB leds cut at the led size (so 170mm for a 170mm length led).
Notice: Inside the cap there is a deeper dent: it's made for the COB led to sit there.
If you will use led strips cut the profile about 15/20 mm more than modules length (in my scenario 220mm for two 200mm strips)
2) insert the hex screw or the nuts inside the bracket
Nuts are mean to be tight (if you ever built a Prusa kit you are already used to them!).
In case you can't press the nuts in, don't use excessive force. Use an M3 screw from the other side and tighten it.
3) hammer the cap on the Aluminum profiles
They are strong enough in this orientation to get hammered down without issues!
4) thread the tilt knob
Cut an M3 thread inside the tilt knob unless you want to use fixed screws.
5) join all the pieces together
Note: on the Original Prusa mk3 I installed the light on the back of the frame to avoid issues with Z-height!