I ditched the previously announced major redesign as it had to many drawbacks ompared to relatively minor improvements. So here are some itarative vhanges for the first release
This Thing is WIP. I tested the design and it works well for me but I'm not very happy with the current wire management. Description very much WIP.
Check out this thing if you want to use your own extruder.
A simple direct extruder, that is compatible with widely used fan ducts and requeres a minimal amount of easily obtainable additional or salvaged parts.
please drop me a line if you have found it working with others and I will update this list
- Hero-Me in stock or single 5015 blower configuration with the wire guide chopped off(I will add a slightly higher base for the dual 5015 version very soon)
- Bullseye with the wire guide chopped off
Bill of Materials:
- 2x 608 bearing (2RS recommendet)
- 1x 623 bearing (2RS recommendet)
- 1x ca. 20x8x1 spring(stock extruder or bed springs should do the job, I use one of the typical yellow bed upgrade springs)
- 1x M8x50 bolt (to be hobbed as drive gear (instructions))
- 1x M8 bocknut (or 2 nuts counter each other)
- 1x PC4 M10 bowden coupler (like on the stock hotend)
- 1x M3 x 30 bolt (may vary depending on the spring you use)
- 1x M3 x 10 bolt
- 1x M3 x 6 bolt
- 1x M3 x x 22 bolt
- 2x M3 x 16 bolt
- 3x M3 nut
- 2x M3 washer
- 1x M4 washer
Print orientation & supports
Gears: Flat sides down, no supports.
Body: Back side (where gears attach) down, full supports
Idler: On it's side, full supports
Spacer: Laying flat
Make sure to get the length of the remaining PTFE tube just right and have it gripped tight by the couplers. The PTFE tube is a structural part, if you experience flexing of the extruder during extrusion a sloppy tube connection is likely to be the root cause.
Some connections have quite tight tolerances, expect to do some sanding to get everything moving smoothly if you haven't tuned your line width excessively.
Adjust the height of the included M8 spacer to fine tune the alignment of the hobbed bolt.
Works well in PLA but you will have to keep an eye on the motor temperature as it may soften the PLA. If you experience high themperatures a heatsink on the motor is highly recommendet.
any ABS, PLA
ABS is best for enclosed printers.
Use 3 ore more walls, floor and roofs to get rigid parts.