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Triaxial Tourbillon Clock Make/Mods

by mcmaven Feb 11, 2019
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can you please put the Earth´s shaft into the Whole Earth for me?
I need this to be one solid piece.

Thank you so much.

first I think you did a great job! I love your clock!
I would love to reproduce it at home, but there is a problem .. it misses the needles and the spiral that drives the mechanism of the clock.
I would like to have all the pieces before assembling it .. Is it possible that you send them?
also, it would be nice if you sorted by color all the pieces, your plan is hard to decipher to be able to sort the pieces by colors (as you printed it)

Congratulations again !!

Hi, I'm glad you like it. This design is remix of A26's design. See https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3061474. You need to download the missing parts from his page. To help you, I just added a table to the end of the 'Triaxial Tourbillon Clock Make' PDF file, which provides some details for the STL files, e.g. colors, which ones need to be downloaded from A26's page, and other information. Please download the PDF from the Thing Files page.

Triaxial Tourbillon Clock (Astronomia)
by A26

Oh, and also please post the Main_Frame-carriertop_shaft_half.STL as one combined shaft. It would also be great to have the Earth combined together as I would like to print it in Clear resin on the Form2.

Thanks a bunch!

I posted the carriertop shaft whole.STL and the Whole Earth.STL for you. Looking forward to seeing your make.


thank you so much for posting the new files!

Sorry to bother you again, but can you please also post the Clock_Face-72tminute_shaft_half.STL as you did with the carriertop shaft whole.STL AND please put the Earth´s shaft into the Earth for me. If I print the Earth Whole and the Earth shaft as two separate parts and then glue the shaft into the Earth it will not look nice through the clear resin. I will try polishing the Earth so that the continents are nice and shiny (I would love to get it close to a glass-like look). The oceans would then remain matt. The clear resin is really some amazing stuff - if you polish it with the finest tools under water you can eventually make glass lenses from it!

Also I tried getting the moon printed on the Form2 with grey resin but it is not possible because the moon is hollowed out and the shaft runs all the way through it. An SLA printer cannot print hollowed out models unless there is some sort of a drainage hole for the trapped unhardened resin to flow out. Do you think you can make the moon filled and connected to the shaft like the Earth is?

Once again I appologize for bothering you so much but this is an excelent project and I would really like to make it look great. I also plan on giving it the Quartz machine after I am done making the clock. :-)

Hi, I posted Earth_Whole_with_Shaft and 72minute_Shaft_2_Whole STLs for you, but I don't have a model for the moon. A26 got his model for the moon from here, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:419009. Hopefully this will help.

Moon Globe 5x

Thank you so much for posting those files. I can hear them getting printed right now! :-)

Can you please post the Clock_Face-72tminute_shaft_half.STL as the two halves already combined into one shaft? I cannot seem to get it right in Meshmixer...

Thank you.

Hi, now that I have finished your Triple Axis Tourbillon I will try giving this a shot. I will definately convert it to the Quartz mode after I am done with the original mode! :-)

where is the hairspring file ?

You need to download it, and several other parts, from A26's page. Look in the Notes, I just added a table of the STL files, and which ones need to downloaded from A26's page.

Where do you get these small shafts??? Any good vendors, especially in Australia

I just started with Google searches for 2mm and 3mm steel shafts, but so far I have been able to order all my parts through either Amazon or Ebay.

Searching on the Australian Amazon site for '2mm steel shaft' I found this page.
uxcell are the same shafts that I ordered from Amazon.

And here is a page for 3mm shafts.

For ball bearings search for 2x5x2.5 mm with the dimensions in the order of xx.

Wow! Thank you for spending your time on finding this!
I appreciate it.

I'm curious, any idea why the balance wheel uses 3mm diameter shaft and bearings? Everything else is 2mm. The material gets really thin around the bearing in the balance wheel.


The 3mm main tourbillon shaft is from A26's original design, but he didn't use ball bearings. It didn't occur to me to change it when I added the ball bearings, but considering the stresses involved, a 2mm shaft would probably work fine and the material would be thicker. If you are having an problem with the prints, I could redesign it to use a 2mm shaft.

Thanks for offering but I've got it sorted out. I've resized most of the tourbillon components (by about +4%) and reworked a few of the parts to make it a bit stronger and easier to print. Maybe the 3mm bearings have less friction? I'll post a remix when I'm done.

I intended to make some modification to the file. May I know where to get the file in cad format?

Thank you so much for all the work on this! I'm having fun printing all the parts and fitting it all together. I also intend to convert it to motor driven, once I've got all the parts fitting and working...

I have a question about the spacers in the MainFrameBottom - I don't get why you need the larger diameter ones 24x35, it seems the smaller ones would do instead. My bearings press fit into the gears and don't seem to need anything else to hold them in place. Also there seems to be some confusion about the thickness of the spacers - Figure 1 calls for 2 24x35x1.5mm spacers, but the text says one of them is 24x35x1mm. It would seem that these are to give the correct spacing to the gear teeth, shouldn't they both be the same thickness? With my build I am using (4) 12.2x18x1.2mm spacers, 2 in the drum/gear assembly between the gears and 2 more on top.

I can't wait to see this bit of horological artwork ticking!!!

Triaxial Tourbillon Clock Make/Mods

thanks for posting detailed description of clock face. i am now able to figure out gear positions. thanks again.

This is mesmerizing. Such a nice conception job! I hope I can make one some day.

Awesome work and spectacular design... simply amazing... but...

Another globe that does not have New Zealand...

Don't feel bad, Tasmania is gone too. Probably subsumed by global warming, or possibly the over sized hemisphere that I used to cover up A26's trellis.

Actually, New Zealand being left off maps is "a thing" and quite common (#getnzonthemap). For a funny take on it:


So are you a Kiwi, or just a sympathizer?
New Zealand is definitely on my bucket list.
I looked and it was on A26's STL file, but was lost when I generated my modified version of it.

Actually just a fan of John Oliver and happened to check the globe for NZ. I'm a Pennsylvanian but would love to go to NZ.

Strange that your modifications caused this when it seems to be such a common thing. Maybe this is a clue to why it is missing so often.

I dont know if people still look at the comments, but i got a slight problem and wanted to know how other folks solved it.
At the Main_Frame_Carriertop the middle shaft has broken of for the 4th time. I even tried remodelling it and printing the whole shaft filled with plastic. Also tried inserting a metal rod into the shaft. Still it just broke off.
What material are you using for the successul models or is there another trick to this.

Hi DrEeevil,
Like ruzickjc, I used PLA too, and the bearing fit was snug, but I didn't need to sand anything, and so far, I haven't had any carriertop shaft issues. Generally I make shafts slightly over sized because I find that it's easier sand the shaft down, that it is to shim it.

The only shaft that I had break on me was the minute shaft, when I accidentally knocked the whole assembly off my desk and the whole clockface broke loose.

Not with this design, but I have had problems in the past with shafts printed vertically breaking way too easily, especially at the layer where the shaft is printed against a flat surface (as in the case with the carrier shaft). I suspect that it has something to do with the inter-layer adhesion of the print, but I don't know what I'd do to change this other than playing with extruder temperatures.

The last time this happened, I separated the shaft from the rest of the part, split it in half, and printed it with the fuses going the length of the shaft, rather than around the circumference. The problem with this approach is that the two shaft halves need to be glue together, then sanded smooth by spinning it in a drill to get rid of the elephant feet and other distortions associated with printing in two parts.

I will post a 'Main Frame-carriertop no shaft.STL' (that has a hole where the shaft is) and a 'Main Frame-carriertop shaft half.STL' file in a few minutes so you can try the technique that I describe above. Maybe this solution will be stronger. Please let me know if you try it.
Regards, McMaven

I have great success with regular PLA (I use Hatchbox). However, I also broke the shaft when trying to test fit the bearings since the shaft was a very tight fit.

I printed a replacement piece and sanded down the shaft so that the bearings just slid on rather than being a tight fit that put too much stress on the shaft when assembling pieces.

This is some complex amazing shit if I have ever seen any

Dwayne Johnson clapping gif this is just, AMAZING!

is it possible you give some CAD files to modify or upgrade the design ? ( stp, igs, 3dm or even better sldrpt )

You need to ask A26, it is his design.

You thought Apollo Rocket design was overcomplicated? Check this out!

Thanks, but I can't take the credit. Jacob and Co designed it, A26 reverse engineered it to make the original model, and for some reason the 'powers that be' decided to put my remix on the home page. But, I have always been a fan of over-complicated mechanical designs, and the watch that was the basis of this design certainly qualified. I marvel at many of today's +$200K designer watches are excellent examples of needlessly complex designs. However, I think this clock design will win the Gratuitous Complexity award when it's finished. https://youtu.be/uWkzygOjoS0 That video does not do it justice. It is a labor of love, which Mark Frank has been working on for almost 10 years now.

Hi McM: You could put a mention of the NAWCC (nawcc.org) for those inspired by your designs to learn more about clock and watch design, building, collecting, repair, history, etc. Another thought is the NAWCC on line museum, which contains hundreds of cool clocks to inspire new designs.

Good work!


Hi Mcmaven...
This project seems absolutely marvelous to give a shot..
Do you have any thoughts to make it "electrical" ?
This is way to good looking to just run for 5 hours, it should be on the wall ticking always :-)...

Hi Faanvet, Due to popular demand, I've started working on an electric version. Hopefully I will be posting the make in the next couple of weeks.

Comments deleted.

I just made a new Gyrotourbillon project at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3486215, which is 'electrical'. I had been intimidated by the idea of Arduino programming, but I dug in and figured it out. After I got it working, I realized that it was pretty simple, so I will be looking at doing the same for this project. I will be adding some documentation to my Gyrotourbillon documentation to explain the Arduino programming process for the neophyte so the process will be less intimidating.

Remember, this design is really just kinetic art that looks like a clock. I haven't calibrated the clockwork to determine how accurate it is. So even if it were motorized, I doubt that it would keep correct time. An alternative that I'm considering is disconnecting the hour wheel gear from the rotation of the whole assembly, and driving it with a second motor so the displayed time will be correct, irrespective of how fast the thing actually turns.

Also, talking to A26, he says that the balance spring is the first thing to fail. Plastic is not the best choice for a spring. Also I don't know how the 'plastic on plastic' Balance Wheel to Fork to Escape wheel interfaces will hold up over time if it was constantly ticking. If the time and rotation were driven with separate motors, then I could add a button that lets you turn on and off the rotation, while always displaying the correct time. Besides, it is pretty loud when it ticks.

Gyrotourbillon - Jaeger-LeCoutre model
by mcmaven

Are you still planning to do something like this?

Yes, but I got distracted be the Triple Axis tourbillon that I just posted. However, I have been working on it in the background. I've modified the gear train and designed a new base with the motors in it, and built it. But there are some some bugs that I need to work out before I can feel comfortable posting it.

When I came across earth ball. It was sized way, way too big. Please resize it and re-download STL files for north and south regions.

Yeah I ran into that issue too. I scaled the Earth to 10% of original size which seemed to work well for me.

I discovered that there is a known bug in Fusion 360. When you import an STL in mm, it assumes cm, so when you save it, it is 10x the original size.... Sorry about that.

I wasnt sure what size it suspose to be. I'll try that. Thanks ruzickjc

Thanks ruzickjc for responding to studio41.
I added a detailed explanation of how I used Meshmixer manipulated the Earth STLs in my Triaxial Tourbillon Clock Build Notes PDF (section, also some of the intermediate STL files that I had generated (Earth North 2 Mix.stl, Earth North 2 Mix Combined.stl, and Earth North 2 Mix Not Combined, both Solid.stl) to the distribution files. Maybe one of these files would work better for you. Regards McMaven.

I cant get the tourbillon to work. It just locks up as soon as i apply any force at all on it :S

Hi Nosliwe, This is the most critical part of the design. I updated the Triaxial Tourbillon Clock Build Notes PDF (section 2.1.4) with a detailed "Getting it to Tick" explanation of what you need to pay attention to, to get it to tick reliably.

"1.1 Summary
(2) 3x6x2.5 ball bearings"

"3.6 Tourbillon
Four 3x6x2.5mm"

Well :)


Same with 12x28x8 (6001) ball bearings, or i just missunderstood those (3) in summary?


Looks like in Mainframe Bottom list is good and we need 3 pieces of 12x28 bearings and 3 8x22 (so mistake is in text describing asembly)

Thanks, I'll fix it.

And i will try to write down those nuances during assembly.
Byt for now, can You estimate how much lead shot You put in counterbalance?

Ok, so i will write it down here, to not miss anything:

  1. In Mainframebottom You mention M2x20 screws. They are not added to the list.
  2. In Mainframebottom You need 3 12x28x8mm bearings, and 2 8x22x7mm bearings. First three go to 2x 30tbeavel and hub - You missed hub from oryginal list part. 2 8x22 goes to Mainframetop_a. I would add a spacer or change Mainframetop_a to provide good separation of those bearings.
  3. In Mainframebotton (in assembly model) there is (i suppose) oryginal 39t gear not mentioned anywhere.


  1. In Tourbillon You need 3x M2,5 flat head screws and 3x DIN 912 M3 screws (not m2) to connect "Tourbframe".
  2. Need to correct summary amount of 3x6x2.5 ball bearings - already needed 4 of them in tourbillon.

I tightly packed the Counter Balance with #4 lead shot (which is about 2mm in diameter), and it weighs about 150 gm. It probably could have been a little heavier to better balance main Main Frame-carriertop, but it was heavy enough to fix the problem that I had of it stopping when the clock face was on the up swing.

I had forgotten the 8x22x7 bearing for holding the Mainframebottom-18tgearplusshaft 2 in the Mainframebottom-mainframetop c. Thanks.

When I modified the Mainframebottom-mainframetop b, I made the center hole a little smaller to prevent the bearing from falling through. I then dropped one 8x22x7 bearing into the Mainframebottom-mainframetop a, followed by A26’s bearingadapter to act as a spacer, then the second 8x22x7 bearing. Adding the Main Frame-39tgear cap to the end of the Main Frame-carriertop center shaft, prevents the carriertop from working its way out of the mainframetop.

I add a picture to the Notes PDF and the files list that shows how many of the parts fit together. And I will add your comments to it too.

And thanks for the corrections.

I've just finished assembly. It was fun to build. But it is far from working, at least at this condition. The building needs lots of sandpapering, glue, and heating with hairdryer. But heating deforms the gears and it must not be the first choice. It is impossible to guess which gear needs to be stiff at the shaft or which one must be free before seeing the whole mechanism. And a few pieces are really prone to breaking, like hairspring. I've printed 3 copies before successfully attach it. Screw lengths are not the same as mentioned. Be prepared to have longer sizes. I used epoxy glue, it didn't work properly, I must find another solution. For this reason or design mistake of mine, sliced versions of bigger parts are not stable after glue.

-One silly question, hourgear3.stl isn't at the notes or assembled models. Can you figure out where it is?
-Can you show the spring at the paw and configuration of it?

Thank you for your help. I'll never imagine this without you and this website.

I use 'Acrylic Solvent' for glue which contains Methylene Chloride and Trichloroethylene. It melts PLA very quickly and forms a strong bond. Holding 2 parts together for 30 seconds will get them them to stick, but it may take several hours to fully cure. The larger the surface, and the more glue you use, the longer it takes. A friend told me that Acetone works just as well with PLA or ABS, but I haven't tried it.

Get all 3 of the hourgears from A26's site. I didn't modify them, so I didn't post them to my page.

The trick to aligning the balance spring is to position the balance wheel so the tab that engages with the fork is pointing directly at the fork. Them with the balance spring rotated to the position where it drops into the mount on the tourbillon frame, push the hex center of the balance spring onto the hex of the balance wheel. After connecting the balance spring to the balance wheel and the tourbillon frame, the balance wheel tab should point directly at the fork, when the balance wheel is at rest. See the attached photo.

Thank you for the photo this will help for balance spring. But the "spring" that I want to say is it says "...If I positioned that leg on the bottom when I hung it on the wall, gravity would cause the pawl to drop and not engage, so I added a spring to the pawl so it always positively engaged the 30Tbevel gear." at the notes. I guess there must be a metallic spring which engages to the pawl. And for hourgear3 I can not find the place of it at the assembly.

I think the "spring" you're looking for is actually on the ratchet (Mainframebottom-ratchet.stl). If you compare mcmaven's version to A26 you'll see the addition of the little curved piece that acts as a spring to keep the ratchet locked into the 30Tbevel gear.

Thanks for the explanation. You're totally correct about the spring.

For Germany and Europe:
Based on the parts list I assemble everything from www.ebay.de
When I put it into the shopping cart it was 42.19€ in total.

(2) 3x6x2.5 ball bearings

(4) 2x5x2.5mm ball bearings

(9) 8x22x7mm ball bearings

(3) 12x28x8mm (6001) ball bearings

(~200mm) 2mm shaft

(~100mm) 3mm shaft

(18) M2x8 flat head screw

(10) M2x8 cap screw

(2) M2x10 cap screw

(8) M2.5x8 cap screw

(2) M3x8 hex socket head cap screw

Hi again, a noticed a few files must be printed more than once. Maybe a list for that can be done for the number of each component?
For example, there are 6 of the "Main_Frame-22x19x2_Spacer" must be printed, isn't it? Any more pieces like that?
And "bearingadapter.STL" and "drum.STL" must be also downloaded from A26's design (not mentioned at the extra files). And bearing adapter has to be printed 2 copies.
I'll ready for assembly in a few days and try to make a guide with photos.
And one more final question, is "cap screw" means "hex socket head cap screw"? Do you mean the same screw?
It's written that there is a spring at ratchet. Do you use a spesific one?
Thank you very much for answers.

In the PDF file on the Thing Files page there is a breakdown of which parts you use from my page, and which that you need to get from A26's page. I think I also listed the number of each part that need to be printed. Make sure you use the PDF copy from the Thing Files page (not your original download, because I keep updating it. For instance, I'm going to add the European sources for parts that jay999 posted above, since he did such a great job putting it together. :-)

I've updated my print on latest notes, thank you very much. And one last question, can you describe the spring at the paw? And screws for the weight?

Hi McMaven I realized my list might suffer from a translation confusion.

Cap screw seems to translate into 2 type of screw heads in German. And after looking at the 2nd video, I might have picked the wrong one.

Please look at the pictures and confirm which type is required.
I picked the more common cylindrical head, but I believe the video shows the other type.

Just for fun here the names in German: Zylinderkopfschraube and Linsenkopfschraube

I chose the zylinderkoph for the Balance Wheel because they looked heavier, but for the Balance Wheel or in other places that call out cap screws, either style will work.
There are only a couple of places where you absolutely have to use flat head screws. and those can be Phillips or hex socket.

I was wondering if this design is motorized and/or if you were planning on making a design with a motor so that it could run far longer.

I hadn't planed on doing it for this project. But for my next project, I just ordered 5 small geared stepper motors and driver boards from Amazon for $12 that can be attached to a Arduino. I was going to see if one of them had enough torque to drive it. I think these are the same motor that Alduinien used for his Hawk Eye project (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2901179), but I couldn't find a source for them on his site.

Using a weight to power this design is pretty old school. It wouldn't be so bad if you only had to reset the weight once a week, but having to do it every couple of hours just doesn't work. I just keep reminding yourself that this really kinetic art, that just happens to look like a clock. To get it to be an accurate clock, would take an immense amount work. See some of my comments on the subject below.

Hawk Eye : a three axis tourbillon project

Who do you call???
I haven't been able to find any one to make web site suggestions to. The 'support' page only lists FAQs. Does anyone know how to get the attention of the Thingiverse webmaster?
Below is my wishlist...

1) I wish the big pictures of the parts also displayed their names. It is painful to guess which part is which from the little icons in the Thing Files page.
2) There is no revision control. It would be nice if they stored a cookie on your machine that would allow you to display the a list of files that have changed since the last time you downloaded something from the Thing Files page.
3) The same goes for the set of comments that have been made since your last visit.

Agree for all of them. I'm sure they read this comments.

It looks sufficiently similar to A26 version... Would you not care to state this is a derivation/remix?

why don't you click on and fully read the thing details first before making such a ridiculous comment. he absolutely did give credit!

I did read the long description.

To be fair, this is what he should have done (attached). It is a remix, attributable to the original design. This is what sharing your design is about.

Perhaps you have to be reminded of this:


You are correct, this is a remix, but being one of those guys who 'doesn't read documentation', didn't realize that I should have posted it as remix until after I had posted it.

In my defence:

  • In the first sentence of my Notes, I said that I started with A26's design. I'm afraid that, that attribution was pushed to section 2 when I added the parts list as section 1.

  • I never made any attempt to hide A26's contribution, in my notes, or in any of the comments that I've responded to.

  • The Thingiverse home page said "Originally designed by A26".

  • A26 wrote me and said "Excellent design work and congrats on getting front-page featured. I wholeheartedly endorse your changes for turning my semi-functional prototype into something arguably useful."

  • I never expected my make (remix) to go viral. I have no idea how Thingiverse decides on what they choose to feature, but seeing my make on the home page was a total surprise to me. When I went back and checked my email, there was an email that only said "Triaxial Tourbillon Clock Make/Mods was featured on the front page of Thingiverse!
    Take a screenshot and start bragging."

  • I didn't do this to sell on ebay (which is where your link took me).
    I did this strictly for fun, and never realized that it would turn into so much work. The other makers are more demanding than my boss.

  • I'm new to posting things to Thingiverse and to the web in general. I made a mistake, and now I know better.
    I won't make the same mistake again.

Just out of curiosity, how much does it drift in one hour? I know it's not the point, but the build looks impressive and runs surprisingly smooth!

I don't know. I downloaded an app on my phone (Tickoprint) that is supposed to use the microphone to listen to the ticks, and plot the result. But its plot is in some weird Horological format, which I haven't taken the time to figure out yet. And when I tried to take a trace, the printer was on in the same room (even though my phone was very close to the clock), and the program kept loosing sync. I'm guessing that it couldn't hear the movement well enough. I need to turn off my computer and printer, and try again. I just haven't taken the time.

Any clock will drift due to temperature, humidity, and age. I suspect that a plastic clockwork will be much more susceptible to all 3, than a metal clockwork. And even if it doesn't drift much, my real concern is that the gearing does not translate to the advancing the hour and minute hands at the right rate. For example, it may reliably tick at 5400 beats (ticks) per hour, but if the gearing to the hands is set up for 6000 beats per hour, then the result will be that it will be perpetually slow. But I haven't done the math here yet.

Sometimes, I start feeling like I am somewhat smart.

Then I go to places like this, see what other people are doing.
That gets me back to groundlevel, making me aware of my averageness.


No seriously, this is a fantastic project, thanks for sharing!

Hey! I was there once too. You just got to put in your "10,000 hours". Don't give up, the internet is a wonderful place for leaning stuff.

Hello, this maybe a stupid question. But what % of infill have you used? 100%?

20% on everything with 3 perimeter layers. In this design, you are not dealing with any large forces.

A while back I watched a youtube video, where the guy tested the strength of the same parts, given various amounts of infill. His conclusion was that for torsional strength (as in flexing a long print), infill didn't make a huge difference. Even with a 0 infill part.

I use 20% because I find that on my printer, that grid size gives a smoother top surface. Less than that, the grid can leave artifacts in flat top surfaces (sags). And according to the guy on youtube, more infill won't buy you anything. And I hate to waste plastic.

I use 3 perimeter layers, because I get better results when printing tilted walls, and when printing with light colored plastics the sides are the full color of the filament (otherwise they can be a little pale). And if a wall is a really a shallow angle, then I use a few more perimeter layers, otherwise the infill grid starts to leave artifacts again. When using only 3 perimeter layers on a surface that is tilted just a couple of degrees, the surface print quality looks fine, but on a white print I can see the infill grid as whiter areas on the surface.

I find that these settings work well for my printer (a Prusa3), but you need to decide what works best on yours.

ciao scusa ma non capisco una cosa : questo file STL Main_Frame-Earth_South che è di 708 kB ha una misura di- X 52591.0176- Y 52582.0391 E Z 26890.7737 non è stampabile con queste misure cosa devo fare ? Grazie !

Si, lo so. Se puoi, leggi i commenti. C'è stata una discussione a riguardo, e penso che qualcuno abbia usato Meshmixer per cambiare le dimensioni, ma non l'ho provato. Per ora usa i file di A26, e vedrò che posso generare un file migliore. Saluti.

Grazie mcmaven della risposta ascolterò il tuo consiglio !

Updated Design Notes PDF with list of files that you need to get from A26's page.

All, I just posted a new version of the Escape Wheel STL (Tourbillon-15Tesc 2.STL). I apologize for posting the wrong one. McMaven

There is a slight rotation at the center gear. Isn't it?
It is really hard to notice in Thingiverse, if there is an important reply is made between all comments. They are not chronological.

The 'center gear'? Could you reference the STL file name?
I had posed a version of the Escape Wheel (Tourbillon-15Tesc 2.STL) that was rotated a couple of degrees, but a posted a corrected file yesterday.
Is there another part that has the problem?

I know, this seems like a goofy way of handling comments. Finding the latest is painful.

It was the escape wheel mcmaven as you mentioned. I've re-printed it again.
I Follow all of the comments day by day, to be updated for even minor changes at your design. And I'm a good witness here from day one of this design, your respect to A26 and your honest replies here. There is a proverb in our language for your situation here ; "The tree that bears fruit will be stoned" :)

In this language, we get stoned off tree

Oiling Cheap Bearings: Heat up Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) until it becomes liquid, drop your bearings in it, give it a minute or 2 then turn off heat, allow to solidify completely then dig out your bearings.

I'll give that a try. Thanks!

Thank you for providing the additional information (parts list & additional picture & video).

Great job, really looks nice.

Hi again. Since I'm at the halfway of printing, these are some changes in the parts which I've been noticed;

-Main_Frame-Earth_Fill is added. Is it for bigger file size at the previous one? So it isn't needed if I've printed the previous one successfully?
-Tourbillon-8Tgear is added. It wasn't there previously. But it is still there at A26's files. Am I missing something??
-Mainframebottom is divided into 3 pieces. Maybe for easier printing and cleaning from supports? Is it OK with one piece printed version? Or something imported changed more than separating?
-Are there more extra-print parts from A26' design?

Thank you for your help and your effort for our demands here...

-Main_Frame-Earth_Fill is added. Is it for bigger file size at the previous one? So it isn't needed if I've printed the previous one successfully?
Yes, if you can get the Earth to print, you don't need to try to combine A26's earth files with the Earth Fill to kill the geodesic mesh in his original files.

-Tourbillon-8Tgear is added. It wasn't there previously. But it is still there at A26's files. Am I missing something??
Some couldn't find in A26's files so I posted it. However, I didn't modify it.

-Mainframebottom is divided into 3 pieces. Maybe for easier printing and cleaning from supports? Is it OK with one piece printed version? Or something imported changed more than separating?
Are you talking about Mainframebottom-mainframetop a, b, and c?
I did make one mod to A26's mainframetop, and that was adding a flange for the lower ball bearing to rest on. But if you print A26's original, you can just glue in a "Main Frame-22x19x2 Spacer" to do the same thing.

I might have missed something in A26's design, but the carriertop would fall out if I turned the clock upside down. I didn't want this to happen when I hung it on a wall. So I decided to use a screw and washer (Main Frame-39tgear cap.STL) to securely hold A26's 39tgear to the carriertop. I had to make the hole in the bottom of carriertop's center shaft (which was originally for a shaft) a little smaller, so it would accept a 2mm screw. And to allow the screw to fit without changing the length of the carriertop shaft (which I had already printed twice), I had to cut a couple of mm off A26's mainframebottom (which hadn't printed yet) center shaft, resulting in my modified version (Mainframebottom-Mainframebottom2.STL).

I changed the mainframetop so it could be taken apart to be able to better see what was happening when I was debugging this problem.

-Are there more extra-print parts from A26' design?
Yes, you need to add the 39tgear to your list below.

I'm going to add your list of A26 parts to my notes. Thanks for putting it together.

-One answer to my question: "These parts must be downloaded from A26's design"

sidebearingblock (print 2)
12Tgear (print 2)
30tbevel_3-1 (print 2)
10tbevel_3-1 (print 3)

Your list looks good to me. Thanks for putting together.

Some of the models seem to be at a slight angle, meaning the bottom is not flat to the build plate. I haven't checked everything, but it's definitely the case for the escapement and anchor. In Cura, you have to use Lay Flat on the Rotate menu. Cura also seems to have problems with thin walls, which disappear in some place. I printed some parts of the original design and don't remember having these problems. I'm going to try with Slic3r and see if it does any better.

Edit: same problem with thin walls in Slic3r, though a little less severe. For example, wall between the inner teach on the escapement wheel is not present.

Cura has a "Print Thin Walls" option inside the "Shell" section. It's off by default, of course. /shrug

Which parts were you having problems with?
I know you have to flip the center hub STL.

I used a .4mm nozzle and 1.5mm layers, with the Prusa slicer, which I believe is basically a slic3r variant.

I'm afraid that I haven't figured out how to get the STLs that I generate to sit flat. If something is at an odd angle, I slice then look at the preview and check if the first layer looks like it should. If not I rotate it a little more. Painful, but it works.

Cura makes it easier to flat surface. Attached screenshots show it clearly.

Cura makes it easier to flat surface. As animoose mentioned there are a few pieces which are angled.

The Prusa slicer is a variant of Slic3r. It's the same one I tried. I have a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layers, though this doesn't seem to make a difference when I change it to 0.15 or 0.1. I saw these problems on Tourbillon-15Tesc and Tourbillon-15Tanchor2. I've not yet tried any of the other parts. Slic3r also has a lay flat command, which saves manually rotating it. I've added screenshots to show the problem, for the escapement wheel (full size and zoomed in on the problematic area).

Going back through the my files, apparently I didn't post the final version of the escape wheel.
Wen I run my slicer, I only see the gear teeth sting up, not the tabs between them. I suspect that the tabs are only on one side because the model was tilted. I will post the correct file in a few minutes. Note, that only the teeth hold the bearing.

I just added the parts list to the build notes.
I also downloaded an updated version of the Mainframebottom-Mainframebottom2.STL and a PDF of the build notes with the parts list.

I see that You posted only modified files. Could You compare those two sets of files (A26's and Yours)?
This could help to avoid situation where someone (like me) have to print missing pieces during assembli phase.
Or maybe You post all files to print in one place?
Thanks in advance.

I listed all the files that I used in the build notes, and tried to identify the ones that you need to from A26's page. The info is towards the end of the notes. If this info is not correct or not enough, please let me know.

My bad. It is because of my bad habit of printing first and checking if it is ok after.
Thank You for Your work.

Ah... I used to do that too. But I've learned to control myself after throwing away so many parts.

Any progress on the parts list?

Always risky for anyone to start a make without knowing/having all the necessary parts ready to go...

Great design though!

Gee you guys, you ask a lot for a free design. ;-)
I've made similar projects before, so I had most of the stuff I needed laying around. And when I redesigned a part, I made sure that it used screws, shafts, bearings, etc, that I already had. As a result I didn't keep careful track of what I used, where. But I will work on the list.

The single biggest expense was the lead birdshot. I bought a 25lb bag at a hunting store, and was very surprised when I was told it was $45. The bag wasn't that big. But now I have plenty for future projects...

Lol, that made me laugh! ... You are totally right that people often ask a bit too much from a free design(er)... but actually, if I had known that you just used screws and bolts, etc that has lying around, then I probably would not have asked (sorry if you had mentioned that in the detsils and I missed it).

The thing is, I have tons of screws etc as well so I am now absolutely certain that I could make it, but I just figured it was a clock/timepiece, so I thought that VERY specific parts must be needed... Actually quite happy to hear that I was wrong!

Thanks again so much for a wonderful design! Please know that your hard work is GREATLY appreciated.

A relatively cheap source of weight are the really big lead sinkers from fishing shops used for weighing down nets. I melt them in old tin cans on an LPG burner and cast the molten material into purpose-specific molds I make from wood. Outside, of course, and with a filtration mask.

Thanks. I used the smallest shot that I could find, assuming that I would be able to more weight in small spaces. I have a CNC router, and a friend also suggested that I cut a mold out of wood. How accurate is the resulting casting? Does the wood shrink, making the casting over-sized? Another suggestion was 3D printing a mold and pour casting compound over it. Then melt the plastic out, and pour the lead in

I make the molds with a router out of radiata pine as used in stick frames. It's reasonably dry already and doesn't shrink noticeably, but you could always use harder woods like aquila or merbau - which will machine smoother as well. Casting in these style of open top molds is fairly accurate for the bottom and sides but you do get a rounded top surface because the lead forms a meniscus as it cools.

If you want to get more serious I've seen people 3D print objects (positives), embed them in casting sand, melt out the plastic in a kiln and then pour molten metal into the sand mold. This can get you a more accurate shape overall but the surface finish is a granular as the casting sand that was used.

ciao io dovrò farlo piu piccolo perche ho una stampante con misura ridotte !!

Usa Meshmixer per dividere i file STL, quindi incollali insieme al solvente acrilico cloruro di metilene. Funziona molto velocemente, quindi assicurati di essere pronto per allineare le parti. Questo è quello che uso.

dont know if i missed it, but how long does it run for ?

When it is mounted a eye level, a couple of hours.

What that is a one peace of nice work man!! great work!!

Would you consider taking another picture zoomed out so we could see the clock and the weight hanging in the same picture?
Also possibly a zoomed in picture showing the connection at the clock where the weight line is attached.

Thanks for the cool design

I know it has been asked before but could you list the non-printed parts used in your design?

I will post a picture shortly, and work on a parts list.

An actual parts list would be real nice. I love to make this though. I would hate to have to make numerous parts orders as if I missed items scattered throughout your instructions. Shipping becomes a real killer and boosts the price real fast :))
Very nice project!

I will work on parts list.

hi mcmaven i try to calculate the time for print and price of filament,but when i go to files main_frame-earth_north.stl the half globe of earth is crashed my slicer app, when i look at my 3d design software,the half globe appears so pretty big,do we need to scaled down by ourselves?, it happens to with main frame south

I spent several nights working with Meshmixer to try to generate STLs of the earth that would print. You can go to A26's page and print his, but for some reason the north and south hemispheres that he posted, use different polygon meshes for each hemisphere. I tried to merge together a solid hemisphere, that would cover the mesh that he used. I stumbled across something that would print (which is what I posted), but lost it when I tried to improve it. See if you can import it into Fusion 360 and re-export it as an STL. I added the hemisphere STL that used (Main Frame-Earth Fill.STL) to merging to my list of files, and maybe you will have better luck using Meshmixer to merge it with A26's STL.




Loud enough. Think of a grandfather clock with the door open.I posted a video where you can hear it. In this video it was screwed to a hollow core door, which acted as a resonator. The video doesn't do justice to how loud it is. BTW, I made this video before I added the hub cover, counter weight, or redesigned the clock face.

Ah okay. The time lapse raise false impressions of this clock racing like a steam engine on 88mph.
But this clacking is nice!

Why buy for Trillions $, if you can manufacture it for just around $30s to $50?

Even if metalic filament, I believe it results just maybe $70s or about $100s.

Amazing Awesome!

Thing I wanna make.

I probably have $50 into it for parts and materials, but I don't have a good estimate of the assembly or print time. Working on it on weekends and a couple of nights a week, it took me a couple of months to go from A26's original design to my version. But I did redesign most of parts, and in many cases, several times to get them right. I would be interested if someone who made it, would keep track of their print and assembly hours.

Feels like we are developing our own watches.

Indie watch maker! Hehe.

Tinkering how parameter should it be

Is this all 3D printable or are some skrews required?

A26's original design used very few screws, so most various frame pieces were expected to be glued together. I was doing a lot of debugging; changing and reprinting parts to get them to work better, and I got frustrated having to throw away so much plastic/print time. When the tourbillon frame was glued together, I had to cut it apart to salvage the parts, shafts and bearings. So I redesigned the various frames so they could be easily disassembled, which used a lot more screws. But the change meant that I didn't have reprint so many parts to fix something, making the debug/test loop faster. See my replies below on the screws that I used.

Have u a list of parts there are must buy to remake this,plz ?

I will try to put together a precise list, but generally I tried to keep the parts list short. All the shafts are 2mm, except for the Tourbillon shaft which is 3mm. I tried to make the holes for the shaft as deep as I could, so the precise length was not critical.

Most of the screws were 2mm flat head, and a few were 2.5mm. See my response to jay999 below on my screw experience.

Thanks a lot for the detailed list!

Yes, that would be helpful! I tried to figure it out from the PDF, but it is unclear on the srews.

Hi jay999, I picked up this assortment of 2mm flat head philips head screws from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QKT1RF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
I also ordered some 20mm long 2mm screws from ebay.

Whenever I made a hole for a screw I made it as deep as I could, so If I stripped it, I could just use a longer screw. In a few places I had to grind down the screws if they were too long. Also I used machine screws, not really made for plastic, but they worked well for me. You just need a screwdriver that fits them tightly (so you don't strip the head), and apply steady, sometimes very hard, pressure when you screw them in. They are cheap screws, so their heads tended to strip the head if I didn't pay attention when screwing them in. All the holes for screws that I made for 2mm screws were 1.8mm in diameter. This gave a tight fit, with the rather shallow machine screw threads.

And there are just a couple of places where I used 2.5mm screws, or 2mm cap head screws.

In some places I used some hex socket flat head 2mm screws that I picked up on ebay, that I had picked up a long time ago. The ebay screws look cool, but they were also cheap. Their hex sockets, that were supposed to be for a 1.3mm hex wrench, varied in size, and would strip easily or in some cases wouldn't accept a hex wrench. To solve the problem I picked up a collection of cheap hex wrenches to go with them, so I can pick the wrench that best matches the socket. A case of fighting imprecision, with imprecision ;-)

I will try to make a more concise list of the screws that I used and where.


WOW... Im Fuc... love it O.o

This is just insane ... insanely good ... Flabbergasted is the word indeed ... And many thanks for sharing this. Are you a watchmaker or something?

It may be purely coincidence, but the thing that caught my eye was the resemblance to Serenity.

Now that you mention it, it does, doesn't it.

I read that you are using a 5lb weight, but I must be missing something cuz I don't see it in the photos or the video. Is there a thin piece of monofilament that doesn't show up on camera?

I used 30 lb nylon fishing line. You can't see it in the photo or the video, but it's there.
And cool handle!

Comments deleted.

Hi, first of all, thanks for sharing this magnificent machine. My next project will this. There are two points that can be added; there are a few big pieces that can be a problem for some printers. These can be divided. And the second one, Please mod a motorized one with battery for accuracy and continuous/functional clock. Thanks for your wisdom.

I've used Meshmixer with good success to split up the STLs of large parts into smaller ones, or splitting them so I don't have to use support material.

Motorizing it means that it would run 24/7. My concern is that the plastic parts would wear relatively quickly. I've added ball bearings to this design, but there are still a lot of places where it is still plastic on plastic, e.g. the escape wheel, fork, and balance wheel, also the gears. And wear would cause it to change accuracy over time. An old clock maker told me that when you work on clocks, you first realize that they are thermometers. Once you modify them to correct for temperature, you then realize that they are barometers. And after you correct for humidity, you find out that they are gravimeters, and that is the problem a multi-axis tourbillon is supposed to solve.

I'm working some mods to Alduinien's Hawkeye design (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2901179) where I'm adding a minute hand, 3 steppers, and a motion sensor. Two steppers will be for the minute and hour hands, so it could be a radio-controlled clock and set itself. The third stepper would be tied to the motion sensor, and only drive the movement when you were in the room. My theory is that this would let the movement last longer between rebuilds. It would take a LOT of work to get the plastic clockwork to be accurate enough to be a real clock. It is a lot easier to decouple the hands from the movement with the Hawkeye design, than it is with the Triaxal design.

The Triaxial design is truly kinetic art, it just happens to look like clock.

Hawk Eye : a three axis tourbillon project

Thank you for your detailed reply. I clearly see your passion for these things and admire this effort. I'll follow your progress at Hawk Eye. I am a true amateur at these things but I achieved to separate the big parts at tinkercad. And printing your triaxial now. Sincerely.

I was flabbergasted when I saw the original design and knew I just HAD to build one! Being the careful type I wanted to see who else had built one and found your improved version. THANK you for taking the time to improve this beautiful mechanism and make it more "tenable". I know it's still not a clock so much as a kinetic sculpture because of the short run time but at least this one (reportedly) works better and certainly looks much better. I promised to make a clock for my schweedie many years ago and had so much difficulty with it that it never was completed. I am hoping to modify this design to use a stepper motor and a spring to power the clock rather than using a weight (constant regulated spring tension intended to equal the 5 pound weight) so the device can run continuously. If this succeeds I will post the results here. I will build it "as is" first, get it running smoothly and then attempt to modify for stepper power. What a gorgeous device!

A26 did all the work. I just tweaked it.
Let me know how the stepper goes. I'd like to do that too.

You should really mark it as a remix of A26 design (in you thing settings) so that it can be found from the original design.

Hi, thanks you for sharing this design, many great improvements to an already great design !
I'm in the process of making this clock and while going through the doc (THANK YOU for writing it btw, it would have been a nightmare to build without) I spotted a couple of mistakes :

  • A gear is missing from the instructions, it's called '8Tgear.stl' from the original design. It goes between the tourbillon and the fork and isn't present in the part list of either of these sub-assemblies.
  • From the instructions, the part 'Mainframebottom-mainframetop.stl' is supposed to be split in 3 for easier printing, but it seems like you uploaded the original 1-piece part.

Again, thank you for posting this, that's great work !

Hi CailPa, Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I posted the three Mainframebottom-mainframetop pieces; a, b, and c. Also the Tourbillon-8Tgear.stl.

Thanks for the update, I can't wait to get started on this project :D

Congrats on being featured, your work totally deserves it !

Comments deleted.

Hi, I added a PDF file called "Triaxial Tourbillon Clock Build Notes". It breaks down the STL files that I used for each sub-assembly, shows pictures, and describes what attaches to what. For each sub-section I included the ball bearings and shafts that I used. Hopefully the 'Files' section answers your questions.

hello, can you provide a nonprinted part list?