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Valentines Day Blooming Flower Gift Box

by FragrantAbyss Feb 3, 2019
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First try - FAIL. The stand is melted together with the rotational part...

2nd attempt - WORKED! My first one was printing with 0.2 LH and 40 speed; I reduced the LH to 0.15 and speed to 35. After freeing up the pedals from the bottom and removing those tiny supports at the gears i was able to move it BUT NOT WITHOUT THE OIL, oil is a must!

Hats off to the author! Thanks!

Any chance you would be willing to share the design files? I'd like to customize the heart in the middle.

What a wonderful idea this is.On my 4th attempt to print it but I can't figure out how to take the tabs out. Doesanyone have a videa showing how? Whether it opens and closes or not, I love it. Clever person that you are

For some reason, supports for me creates supports on the outside of the model hanging causing spaghetti :S (suports for the heaves)

is there a way to Disassemble it, id like to custom paint it

No, it is printed as a complete assembly.

guess i ll make logic cuts and fix it afterward with putty. thx tho

Nice model btw !

Wish it worked. I have printed 2 of these and they came out beautiful but are locked up as tight as can be and neither will turn. Maybe I am confused where you guys are talking about cutting and oiling. I thought I cut the tabs on sides of each pedal gears and oiled the whole thing but still binding and not giving even a little. New to 3d printing so any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is a beautiful piece though. Just wish I could get it to turn.

Happened here too, ended up breaking the base off trying to free the mechanism

hola, muchas gracias por el diseño esta muy bien logrado. Para imprimirlo usas soportes?

Algunos consejos para evitar que los engranes se fusionen con el entorno?

Hello, can I ask what program do you use for creating the 3d model ?

I love the design, and appreciate the engineering that went into it.

But am I the only person here that thinks this also looks like a really angry butt plug?


it really does, from Alien vs Predator

Can anyone tell me what the inner diameter is, when the box is closed? I want to put a bracelet in it.

Printed the tabbed version, worked perfectly! Awesome modeling!
To remove the tabs, I heated an Xacto knife with a small torch. Use a light touch and keep the blade clean, you can melt through the tabs like butter and not worry about breaking any parts trying to cut them off.

Comments deleted.

Heart printed separately. Inserted flashing LEDs. Added bottom stand for lithium battery, charger and switch.

Fantastic idea, nice work!

Thanks for the model! Very beautiful!

A little advice for fails...

I tried 4 times, only the last one succeeded. Reason is, the petals got loose while printing. They get free from the bed, no matter how hard I tried to stick them on (Prusa i3 MK3). Some people said that the tolerances are too little, I say too much :D BUT the easiest way of solving it is using rafts. I used 2 layers, nothing fancy and they kept the petals in place. AND try to position infill according to the central pillar. If the pillar is blank, it can get destroyed while the head is moving. Use any pattern you like, just be careful about it actually "filling" the heart pillar.

Comments deleted.

What are people using to cut the support tabs... I'm having a lot of trouble, and don't want to break anything by forcing it.

X-Acto knife... carefully

Sliced the files with Cura but that gave really bad results. Used your gcode on my Ender 3, what a great model!

Would you please be so kind to share you slicer and it's configuration?

I've tried twice now to print this sucker. 2 hours in failed the same way. The free standing petal bases at the beginning of the print get snagged by the nozzle somehow, idk why but the inner edge seems to curl up and catch. Two stems broke last print and messed it all up. I don't know what to do other than increase infill to like 60% maybe? And add z hop when retracted? The free standing petal stems at the bottom are so brittle its ridiculous. I'm upping my pla print temp from 200 to 205 to hopefully make stronger layers but.... I give up :(. The petal stems are breaking in half... guess I could add another wall and increase print time to more hours??

Thanks for the cool idea but I can't print it rn. :( Maybe I'll incorporate the concept into other designs.. cheers.

FINALLY got mine worked out (except the overhangs were still pretty rough on the petals)... For anyone having troubles with the rotation, I added a few of drops of olive oil to the gears and threads... Wow, did it make a difference!!!

First off, this is a fantastic model!

Took me 3 tries to get it right but thanks to the "TRIM TABS" version it came out beautifully.

The first iteration was printed with no brim at all and the petals broke free from the bed. The print completed and moved perfectly but looked messy. Second try was with a 1-layer Brim and only one petal broke free. Again, printed fine and worked right away, but that petal looked messy.

Third try I printed the Trim-Tabs model and it was pretty much flawless!

I've actually tried to print it again using a higher quality filament and the middle section started to rotate freely mid-print. I may try to add some small tabs from the base to connect to the middle section just to hold it. I'll clip them with cutters or a razor like the tabs on the bottom to free things up.

Again, thanks for this! I'll post a MAKE with a pretty cool timelapse tonight or tomorrow.

This doesn t work, the collar sticks to the bottom and the threads sticks to the tooths

i have the same problem and am not sure if its because of the printer or the fillament, since eachfillament behaves a bit different.
its really sad because i was looking forward to having this model. i wish there was a model with more spacing for bad printers/filament.

i cant seem to get it to start turning ive gone around with a flathead an tried my hardest to turn it with no luck printed 3 now with all of them breaking due to me trying to free it. Any extra tips for freeing the base?

Try a few drops of vegetable oil to smooth things up and lessen any binding (there are other methods too, but veg oil is a common lubricant for PLA, so it's worth a shot)

could it be due to downscaling???

Used the included gcode - printed on my Ender 3 with zero issues. Broke free in seconds (just gently break it free by turning and feeling for the resistance), the raft came off without any issue (just be careful) and everything looks fantastic. Some little spots where it was over extruded, but that's no fault of the design itself. Painted the body/petals with a gold rattle can and the heart with some glossy red paint. Gold brought out imperfections, but it looks fantastic and I think my wife will like it.

Thank you so much FragrantAbyss for such an incredible design. A single print for something like this? It has blown everyone away that I've shown it to.

Print took about 7 hours.

Printed great the first time.
Didn't print the one with Trim Tabs.
Took a few minutes to loosen up but works great.

Thanks for the design.
Pictures displayed in the Makes.

I'm soooo determined to get this printed successfully, but I'm going to miss my deadline now. I'm sure she'll understand though :)

...3 failed prints, due to lack of supports for the petals... I've never had a problem with overhangs before, using the same PLA (given, only when prints aren't designed to use supports). It's just the underside of the petals (and the beginning of the heart), where the filament doesn't attach on one outer edge and drops until the nozzle hits the corner and wipes when it goes in the perpendicular direction... Once the overhang angle eases up, everything looks great again! IF the model was more "closed" during print, the angle would be less severe and this wouldn't happen. I've messed with layer height, temps, cooling, speed, etc and get the same results no matter what I try. This latest attempt looks like it will finally finish, but the petals look really bad on the exterior...

Regarding the breaking-in/rotating, I played around with the failed prints... It works great, but ONLY after I break the pieces completely off, within each of the slots (see image). If it works without these pieces, it makes me think they're really not necessary and could be designed without them

the middle part start to rotate freely while printing. tried 2 times, same problem. i need to play around with the setting more.

first one violently fused. Trying again at 200% size and dropping temps by 1-2%. I've made things that have very tight tolerances before. It seems a flare/taper between the spacers and the petals would alleviate this issue. Having only the interaction point be the point of fusion is difficult enough to fix. Having arbitrary spaces between moving points with ultra low tolerances is a recipe for disaster.

I ran out of time to have this ready and I've been having some issues with my slicer settings. So I loaded the included gcode file and hoped for the best.
It came out quite nicely. Do you mind sharing your profile settings used to generate the gcode?

Attached is the Cura Profile you can import to match the gcode settings.

How to open this file?
Could you share a file *.3mf?

I don't understand how people can print the petars without support.

I printed using PVA and I can't get it out of the small gaps. It has been in water almost 24h and I already broke 2 of them.

Could you attach a second file for support of the petals to merge in cura ?


Worked fantastically first go. Bottom supports were a little hard to separate but then it worked! Nice job!

Does the trim tab version include the thicker step or is it the original thinner stem?

It includes the thick stem.

Thanks so much FragrantAbyss! For the model and all your hard work... Had an issue the first time around, so I'm trying again with the tab version (fingers crossed)

J'ai essayé la version Trim. Ne marche pas.

For all of You guys complaining about that it's not working or it's impossible to print - DO NOT blame the Author for YOUR lack of 3D printing skill and crappy or uncalibrated 3D Printer (Or both). Mine came out great and it's working without problems at the first attempt. FragrantAbyss thanks for great design, I hope that this gift will be liked :D

I blame your mom. This thing printed like garbage as predicted even though I can print iris boxes all day long that work like as advertised. So its not a calibration issue. Its a shitty model. Learn to model with tolerances.

Print some more iris boxes then. I had no trouble with this print, design is great and all moving parts came out separated.
Hail the creator!

You say it like the Iris box is a challenge xD From Your comment I conclude that Your 3D printer can't manage tolerances used in this model. So you confirm what I said. If Your 3D printer is calibrated well and the model is not working that means that Your printer is crappy or You just don't know how to use it.

very much agree. I printed this off, popped the ring loose with a small screw driver, twisted it back and forth nice and tight both ways to get it nice and loose to open easily. Super easy. Kudos to the author my wife loved it.

Made this last night on my Ender 3. Took about 7h45m at 0.15mm layers through .4mm nozzle and 15% infill.
Looked beautiful. Twisting it open was a scary proposition though. The very bottom of 2 of the petals broke off. They had lightly fused to the frame - you can only see from beneath but it doesn't quite close perfectly as a result.

Wow this thing is incredible. The tabs on the bottom didn't print right but it still seems to work great. I wish I could design things like this! Thanks!

I really want to print this for tomorrow.It is beautiful. However, looking at these comments it seems like 1 out of 100 actually come out correct. Has anyone remixed it with better tolerances? Cura estimated over 9 hours to print this baby. If I wait 9 hours and it doesn't work I will turn violent and the poor dog cant take another kick to the ribs this soon. He's still recovering from the last time I lost at Madden.

I made one, but all fused together beyond my ability to break it apart.....was trying to pry to the point I broke heart stem :(
I think tolerances has to be bigger

Printed this, wasted a bunch of filament and about 16 hours of time. the base is fused to the central part that is supposed to spin. The "petals" are also a bit brittle. When trying to clean out all the support material, three of them snapped. I'm supper frustrated by this model. Maybe the author should figure out how to upload this as seperate pieces and make it snap fit or something.
Its a nice idea, but a terrible way to present it.

I made these tools. With these parts it should be possible to separate the lower parts.
Please leave a comment if this worked for you.

Nice idea! But it is kind of pointless to print one then print tools :)

really neat idea but does not work - the bottom parts are fused together

I have tried 3 Times but no luck.I give up

What issues were you having? It seems enough people are successful, but this just hasn't been going well at all for me either and I'm not at all used to that

the inside part is too close to the thread and fuses it together. If you reduce your feed rate you might have luck (as some people have), but it's highly dependent on filament and print temp as well, the tolerances are just too tight.

Comments deleted.

Can you put only the stl of the heart in order to print it in another color?

you read my mind, vielen Dank!

Ender 3 Pro - 8 hour 14 min print - Printed beautifully without any supports...but broke when trying to free the gears.
I believe 2 of the 6 petals (2 opposite each-other directly) fused. I end up tearing the thing apart and couldn't un-fuse them without ripping the collars. Any suggestions to prevent this fusing issue?

You could scale the whole model up slightly to increase the clearances.

any chance to increase the clearance in your model? I can't emotionally handle another failure ;-)

With the trim tab version of the model I was able to increase the clearance between the pedal supports and the collar. The original design counts on the tight tolerance in the pedal pivot point to stabilize it during the print. With tabs it can be a little looser. If you haven't tried the trim tab version, it is your best bet. Thanks for giving it a try and sorry it isn't working out.

no need to apologize - it's a challenging print and there are many variables that influence the outcome - that's why some have no problem at all it fails for others ;-)
Thanks for making such an interesting model available

The same here: Breaks when trying to free the gears.
CR-10S, 0.4mm Nozzle, PLA red, 30mm/sek.

ummm.. this isn't mean't to be rude or trying to take anything away from the design, which is great btw, is there any way of making the heart in the middle look less umm.. testicular.. Its like a display stand for literally the woman who has everything.. (its bad enough knowing its true :)

THAT is funnyand soooo true. The dogs bollox springs to mind!

I got it to print nicely on my anycubic i3 mega. Is just say be careful when you’re initially working it and loosening it with the screwdriver, accidentally put a dent inside the collar because they’re thin and I mispositioned the screwdriver, but yeah just carefully work your way and give it a twist or two to work it and get it turning.

For anyone having problems, I guess stating the obvious common problems, make sure you’re not using supports (or it won’t work period) and make sure your printer is properly tuned, otherwise you may unintentionally fuse parts and then it won’t work anyways.

would appreciate a quick video showing how you freed up the movement. i printed last night on a well tuned machine, but the gears seem to have fused pretty well inside.

i'm worried that part of my problem might be due to my larger nozzle and line/layer widths (0.8mm nozzle, 0.6mm line, 0.4mm layer). i prefer printing these print-in-place designs with larger nozzles as it ends up producing a stronger object less prone to breakage... but there is little area on this model to gain purchase to even try freeing up the movement without grasping the relatively weaker petals.

what, exactly, did you do to free up your movement?

More and more piece falling off, just can't get it to turn

20 hours and a few attempts later I'm giving up. First attempt the mechanism broke while trying to free it and there were several problems with the petals not having support. For the second attempt used the same settings the creator did and the heart came out broken (was using the thicker one already) and some of the lower pieces that make the movement work on some other part of the bed. Not even sure how that's possible

I really like this design, I would like to suggest that you add a connection to all the petal bases, nothing big just enough that the tiny base section is stabilized during the print, and then can be cut afterwards. the design in it's current state is prone to failure, there are 6 petal bases, if even one fails to stay stationary, the entire print is lost. I am not one to give up on a print, my machines are very well tuned, and typically have no troubles with challenging prints, but I will not try this one again. I say again, I really like this design.

Have added a version with trim tabs. Its a tough print for sure. Check out this version and see if it looks like it would work better for you.

What speed would you suggest printing at?

Doesn't work. Breaks when trying to free the gears.

Looks more "Alien" than "Valentines Day" to me. Which just makes it all the more awesome.

you can not print that

How long did it take to print with the recommended 0.15mm layer tickness?
CURA said ~6 hours but after I started printing octoprint estimates 18+ hours

Depends on your settings but with the 15% infill and a raft mine typically take 6 hours to print on an Ender3. I also use .4mm line width so if you are using a smaller tip it will take longer.

So you print at .4mm with a .4mm nozzle?

Thanks, I have 15% infill and 0.15mm layer thickness. What do you mean by line width? I'm printing from a CR10S-PRO and I think it has a .4mm extruder but I didnt' change any settings related to line width.

The print time was actually being miscalculated by octoprint. Now is says only 4 hours left.

Sorry should have stated .4mm extruder tip.

Will that really be printed without supports? Anyone did?

Thanks for the great remix! Looking at the sliced file, I see that the center heart is removable, it's not attached to the stem at all. Is it possible to just publish the heart as a separate .STL? That would be great, since you could print it in a different color.

I sooooo wanted to print this, but i just could not get it work. the petals start as tiny little squares on the build plate and would just not stick as the print progressed. I tried rafts but no luck

Nope, mine printed just fine.

You should try adding little supports between the squares and the rest of the bottom layer. And cut those away after print with a knife.
Like it's done on popular print-in-place iris box design (https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/f8/2a/86/20/03/632f221f5ecd05ef6f8ae306d77ccba4_preview_featured.jpg).
Any 3D editor should be enough to add this. I'll do this myself and publish a remix if mine won't print :D

will do! thanks for the tip!

what material are you printing on?

i tried PLA, PETG, and ABS (since I had some). All worked differently, but none completed. I like the idea from EviGL to add supports manually and cut them away, i think that will solve the problem i was having.

Comments deleted.

what should the bottom layer thickness be? thanks!

I used the default Cura settings at .6mm

Awesome model! @FragrantAbyss. Could you post the infill settings you used in the gcode you uploaded as well? The model seems to be printing fine on my ender 3 using the pre-sliced file. I'm trying to tune my settings using yours. Also did you have combing turned on?