You will need :
2 x Ikea Lack tables (£5 each Ikea)
1 x Server Cabinet/Network Switch cabinet, preferably 550mm x 550mm (I used a 12U height – you will need higher if you want to keep the spool in the cabinet) The one I used was a RR-W2-12G from RackyRax if you want the exact one but I got it second hand. Ebay/Gumtree/Facebook marketplace is full of them used
8 x 4” (100mm) screws. I used No 8 woodscrews from Screwfix
4 x 1 ½ inch screws (AgainI used number 8 woodscrews)
A 25mm Holesaw that will drill metal
Couple of various sized drill bits
2 x M3 nuts and bolts (About 15-20mm long or longer if you can cut)
A 4 socket extension lead
A smoke alarm (Cheap £5 battery powered unit)
An automatic fire extinguisher (About £20-25 online – it is a 1KG automatic fire extinguisher – I wouldn’t recommend the fire balls unless you can afford an Elide – the cheaper copies don’t seem to work reliably) - example here - https://www.amazon.co.uk/FSS-UK-EXTINGUISHER-ELECTRICAL-SUPPRESSION/dp/B075ZZHGLJ/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1549185868&sr=1-4-catcorr&keywords=1kg+automatic+fire
A 25mm rubber grommet (Electrical supplies or DIY shops) – Example - https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIY-HandyPack-Rubber-Grommet-Closed/dp/B00IN32964
A roll of 3M or Scotch double sided tape – expensive but the best double sided tape you will ever use! - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-Sided-High-Performance-Long-Lasting-Connections-Outdoors/dp/B01MDPD48A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549186030&sr=8-1&keywords=vhb
4 x skate bearings for spool holder – example - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pieces-Bearings-Skateboard-Longboard-Shielded/dp/B01N6BFM6Y/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549186080&sr=8-6&keywords=skate+bearings
Some Superglue or Cyanoacrylate – whatever it is called where you live
2 x 120mm PC fans and LED lights if you have them/want them.
An old mouse mat that has a grippy base
4 small closed cell foam squares about 10-15mm thick and 50mm square
So to make it you need to decide if you want the green (or any colour you choose) coloured parts. They are not required but I wanted the unit to match our gaming PC’s.
If you do then print the parts for the stand first. 50mm leg covers x 12, Leg feet x 4 and Cabinet corners x 4. You can also print the handle and rest of parts now if you want.
You need to then fully assemble one Lack table. I have put a not very good picture showing the assembly order in the picture files. Turn the table upside down so that the legs are pointing upwards. Make sure you slide 2 x 52mm leg covers onto each leg of the built table at this point. You won’t get them on once it is screwed together. Get the top of the second lack table and lay it face down on top of the legs so it lines up perfectly with the already assembled table.
You are going to screw the table top to the bottom of the legs. I did this by drilling two pilot holes on each corner of the table top in line with the legs below. Make sure you avoid the hole for the set of legs you will fit after this.
Once each corner is screwed to the legs then screw in the other set of legs. Slide one 52mm leg cover onto each leg and then put one of each of the leg feet onto each leg.
Now turn the whole thing over and you have your base table.
Next step is to prepare the cabinet.
If you want the reel on top you need to drill a 25mm hole in the top of the cabinet. Looking the front of the cabinet I drilled this 300mm from the front edge and 60mm from left hand edge.
You also need to drill the 25mm cable hole in the back of the cabinet. Looking at the back of the cabinet I drilled this as close to the bottom left hand corner as I could. This suits the power cable on an ender 3. Make sure you fit a 25mm grommet to the hole. You don’t want sharp metal edges rubbing your power cables.
Next, I fitted fans and lights. They were all leftovers I had but I used a cheap ebay/amazon set of 5050 LED’s with a remote control and power adapter. I just stuck them around the top of the cabinet in a loop. The power lead needs to feed through your 25mm grommet.
The fans were a pair of 120mm coolermaster rgb fans I had. They were screwed to the fan mounting holes in the top of the cabinet and wired to the RGB lights. I used an old 6v power adapter I had laying around as I didn’t want them running full speed all the time.
You will need to work out the fan and light wiring yourselves. If you just want a light that is easy maybe use a mains powered led strip inspection lamp.
I have included the STL’s of various cable brackets I designed and printed. These can have the 3M double sided tape applied and can help you route cables.
The fire extinguisher was removed from its bracket and the bracket was fitted in the back right hand corner of the cabinet. 2 holes need to be drilled to fit this. I used some of the rack nuts and bolts that came with the cabinet to mount the bracket. The fire extinguisher then just clips in. Don’t fit the extinguisher yet though. Just the bracket.
If you want to use the handle I made then you need to cut the key. If the key has a plastic covering on it then remove that so you just have a metal key. Now you need to put the key in the lock and push the handle over it to test fit. It will likely be too long. Cut some off the end of the key with a junior hacksaw (The end sticking out – NOT the end that goes in the lock) until the handle pushes on flush with the cabinet door. Now superglue the key into the handle. I also superglued the key into the lock to keep if firm. Make sure you don’t glue up your lock with glue!
Now fit the 25mm filament guide to the hole in the top of the cabinet. Press the locking ring onto the guide inside the cabinet. The guide should be left to turn freely in the hole.
Now put the cabinet on top of the base stand and line up the corners. Push one of each of the cabinet corners under each corner of the cabinet. I glued them to the table top as I did so with a drop of superglue.
Once it is all lined up then drill a small hole in the cabinet base right in each corner and use the 4 x 1 1/2 inch screws to fix the cabinet to the table top. The lack tables only have solid insides in the corners above the legs so don’t drill in the middle.
Now you need to print 4 x printer feet. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2913473 I printed these and then glued then to the closed cell foam sheet. This was then glued to small squares of the old mouse mat with the grippy side down to prevent the printer from moving.
Fit the feet assembly to the printer using the 3M double sided tape (See pics) You don’t have to do this but I made printing virtually silent for me.
Now print 2 x ring guides. The need to have 3M double sided tape applied and they stick inside the enclosure and help guide the filament between the cabinet entry and the extruder. I fitted one lower down and have another to fit higher for taller prints. How you configure them is up to you.
Now fit the extension lead to the back of the cabinet. Mine had mounting points on it so I made a rubbing with a piece of paper and a pencil and then drilled the cabinet to suit. I used the 3mm nuts and bolts to attach it to the cabinet.
I then removed the plug from the printer cable lead and threaded it through the 25mm grommet in the back of the box and reattached the plug.
Next is the spool holder. Print one of these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2278719
Once it is assembled then glue some of the mousemat to the bottom of it (Grippy side down) with superglue. This stops noise and slipping.
You can now fit the fire extinguisher into the cabinet.
Next is smoke alarm. Again I used 3M double side tape and covered the back of the alarm. Stick it to the roof of the cabinet near the front.
Glue the Ender sign on the front if you want it.
Now fit the printer inside (Make sure bed clearance are right front and rear) and start printing 😊