For the firsts few months of my 3D printing venture, I was always chasing a hot bed level I could never accurately repeat.
THEN, just over 2 months ago, I changed my Hot Bed mounting from 4 points to 3 points, aligned my frame in the process, then leveled and locked the hot bed.
I have NO NEED for an auto-leveling sensor to compensate for misalignment, as my printer foundation is perfect.
Now folks, 3-point mounting the hot bed is NOT MY idea: I just implemented it on my printer. It is truly WELL worth the change.
In concert with that change I designed some new Thumbwheels to my specs.
(The blue is for my A8. I've installed Black on my Maker.)
The Upper thumbwheel has a recess in its upper face, to allow the wheel to get as close to the hot bed as possible: keeps your bed off "stilts."
There is a small flange on the bottom face which is a standoff from the Y plate.
The Lower wheels have the same standoff flange.
The flanges of both thumbwheels fit against the Y plate.
They are as thin as I could get them and still support an M3 Nyloc nut with some backing.
The wheels have Nyloc nuts in them, so that when Leveled and Tightened, the hot bed STAYS where it is.
I haven't touched a leveling thumbwheel since I changed 2+ months ago, and my bed is still level and locked.
I just level the X axis, and I print. (Dual Z motor sync loss)
I don't EXPECT to have to touch any of them unless something breaks or loosens.
Now, when all is said and done, if all you currently do is level the X and Print......
you can ignore all this. :-)
But if not.....and you're sick of chasing a bed level.......read on.
I've included a PDF document that I have authored that introduces you to your 3D printer from a different perspective: that of simple geometry.
It's based on personal experience and acquiring information from various sources.
It provides you with a solid overview of the How's and Why's of 3-point mounting, and the benefit it provides.
When you know WHY something works the way it does, no-one needs to teach you WHICH button to push: you already know.
I URGE all of you who are still 4 point mounted to give this a GOOD read.
As a good friend used to say to me, "Don't be a-skeered!"
Come step into a world where you level your hot bed ONCE, and it stays that way.
And for those of you with Maker Select V2 printers who have read the PDF, please see my thing
for a good X level spacer. Works perfectly every time.
STL, STEP and SLDPRT files are included.
Have At It!
If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.
There will be some Support on the underside of the Uppers and in the recesses that will need cleanup
The Nyloc nuts should be installed with their nylon insert away from the Y plate on both nuts, and with the metal threads of the nut closest to the Y plate..
You'll want to drill out the holes with a 3 or 3.2mm drill bit.
They are spec'd at 3.1 mm, but they were a tad smaller after I printed them.
After doing that, I was easily able to slide an M3 bolt through the hole, thread a nut onto it, and then tighten it into the recess.
No hammering or heating needed.
That might all depend on the accuracy level of your printer as to what you'll need to do.
I DID pre-thread the Upper nylon from the top as it needed to go in UP on the Upper with the bolt from above.