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Electronics Third Hand Soldering Stand

by Cybertron3D Jan 28, 2019
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Did anyone else have the problem where the clamp is too big for the wheel? I need to scale the clamp down so the wheel can thread onto it. Anyone have a scale recommendation so I don't have to trial-and-error it? When I saw this design had a screw I almost passed on printing it, printers are just too different and printing screws/threads from another persons design almost never works out without scaling.

Where did you find alligator clips that fit in the tiny hole on the end posts?

The alligator clips are linked in the description.

As for the threads, no scaling should be needed. Printed several of these, as have others, and no issues.

I have remixed the pole to use PLA and not breaking it...hopefully.

Helping hands pole
by mdalacu

Ooohhhh yes! Super awesome! Thank you so much.

I've been having trouble getting the posts to snap together without the leaves of the cups breaking. Yield is <50% and i don't see the successful ones working long. Using Hatchbox PETG. 240C, 75C bed, .2 and .12 layer height. Tried printing upsidedown.

First time using this filament so maybe not dialed in yet. Any suggestions?

Attaching the F360 file if you want to make any changes

I printed with Amazon Basics PETG and didn't have a single one break, almost all of them broke with PLA. One of the design changes I was going to do was curve the opening of the leaves at the bottom, the sharp edge is a stress point.

How is the break occurring? Wondering if it is a temp thing.

Im doing a vapor bath right now I even went and bought 2 rolls of PETG to try and print this and they still break. So i went back to ABS and i'll post my results when done. Also they are breaking at the same spot as Swordfish.

Tried printing posts and end posts in abs so many diff settings at .15 layer height and it just broke so easily. anyone successfully print this in abs?

I didn’t try ABS, but had similar issues with PLA post print. Are you referring to breaking during print or post print?

I’ve tried this print about 5 times it’s happened in both scenarios.

Hey, great project but i have a problem in my slicer (simplify3d). It shows a gaps in post file like on the screen shoot. Do you have any advice how to repair it?

Attaching the Fusion 360 File for you to have to see if you can make it work better with S3D

Someone else mentioned this, seems to be an issue with how I did the model and Simplify3D. I am traveling a ton for work and have not had a chance to fix it. I know it will work with other slicers though. I will reply when I get a chance to do it.

Printed a few posts in PLA to try and snap together and move around, and they seem to work well. What issues did you have with yours in PLA? Printing a bunch more in PLA now to see how a long arm works

I had some adhesion issues during printing, not 100%, but had a few come off the build plate while printing. I also had a couple of the tabs break while snapping together.

While you can use PLA just fine, it just had a higher failure rate than PETG during printing and assembly. With PETG, I had zero print failures or breaks during assembly.

Comments deleted.

Nice Design what filaments are you using ? I like the orange and the black one with the white dots.

Thanks! The Orange is Prusament PETG, the black posts are Amazon Basics PETG, and the base is Prusament Galaxy Black PLA.

Ufff ... i guess i am f... with my ultimaker. Really want to print with the prusament but it is only available in 1.75.

Just an FYI - Seems like the meshes aren't connected on your STLs but 3 different pieces (at least for the posts). Some slicers don't handle this well, specifically Simplify3D.

I am using Slic3r, but I am unfamilar with what you are referring to. I can provide the Fusion360 files too if that would help.

Just tried to reproduce the problem in F360 and it looks like you probably exported the entire component to an STL which was made up of multiple bodies. For it to be S3D friendly I think you need to make the entire thing into one body.

The fix would be to select the bodies that you want in a single STL and combine them into a single body.
Modify > Combine > (select all three bodies (one will be the target)) > Operation should be "Join".

This should result in one body that is made of all 3 bodies you used, you want to export that single body as an STL.

I added some screen shots of an S3D sliced component (made of two bodies) vs one body.

ahhh! Ok, I can easily fix that. Busy with work, but give me a day or two and I will post updated STLs.

I'm having this same issue with S3d. I've tried downloading Slic3r, but because I'm both working with a new slicing program and have little experience with PETG, I've running into all sorts of problems.

Something that works but is not very simple is to place one of the parts into S3D, select the part, then click "Mesh > Separate Connected Surfaces" from the top menu. This will actually turn the piece into 3 however since they are inside one another, they get connected when you slice.

If you need more than one, you select the 3 pieces and then copy/paste in. If you need to arrange them DO NOT PRESS "CENTER AND ARRANGE", select all the parts and move them manually, making sure all 3 parts of a single piece are selected.

What issues are you running into? In a few days I may be able to get around to combining the bodies so that S3d doesn't have issues with it.

No worries I got it working, just letting ya know because it might cause others some issues.

Import to 3d Builder comes stock in most pc's highlight file and then go to merge save as .stl of your choice mine was PostFIXED & EndPostFIXED and re upload to Simplify 3d.

Made it all in PETG. Used brim for almost all the posts. Without brim, the chance of success was no greater than 50% (PETG on Prusa's smooth PEI sheet, thoroughly cleaned, with NO "release agent", which normally results in far too much adhesion!)
I think the base is heavy enough as is without adding weights, but that's always a possibility down the road. I printed it at 10% infill, gyroid pattern.
If I were to modify the design in any way, I'd start out with using a coarser thread on the knob and clamp (fewer turns per cm, which leads directly to deeper thread depth). By doing that, I could also tweak the design to have 0.2mm of clearance between the two parts. As printed, the parts fit very tightly, which is not necessary.
An even more advanced tweak would be to incorporate ball sockets into the base so that no gluing would be necessary. That would involve putting each socket into a little "well" so it could flex as necessary, or else printing the sockets on top of the base. If a socket were to break, there is still the glue option so all is not lost.

i know this is an old comment, but check out my little remix (no glue post)

Thanks for the feedback!

Your idea of incorporating the ball socket into the base is how I actually designed it the first time. See the attached pic. If people are interested, I could include it as an optional base STL. The reason I didn't do it was for exactly what you said, broke one of the tabs while prototyping the posts and now the whole base was a trash. Yes, you could glue the post into it, but I didn't want that to be a normal problem.

The thread on the knob is valid, will look at making the change.

Looks like a great design, but dang it's hard to print the most important parts - the posts. They have such a tiny footprint compared to their height. I've done hundreds of prints in PETG before this and never had a problem, but these things are challenging to say the least. I might have to end up adding brim, but given the tight tolerances of the ball-in-socket design that's going to be problematic.

EDIT: posts printed with brim are not really very hard to clean up - and they print MUCH more reliably than without brim.

I noted in the description you need to brim the posts. When I prototyped it, tried without them and it failed every time. Once I did a brim on them, worked flawlessly. Make sure you print in the orientation in the file, that being the flat ball socket down.

I guess I misunderstood the Instructions - I thought that Cybertron3D said that he needed brim when he tried to print in PLA, but did not when he used PETG. Upon re-reading the instructions, I see that apparently he did use brim with PETG. I have printed some now with brim and found that they really are not that hard to clean up. That would be my recommendation for anyone printing the posts.

Very Very cool! One way I weighted down my helping hands was while printing with lower that usual infill (large gaps in the rows of infill) I put in lead shot (or if you want lead free go with steel shot), it can add considerable weight to these bases easily

Great design!

Thanks! I had the exact same though as it was printing, but I didn't have any lead shot handy.

This design looks fantastic, I'll be printing a few in the coming days. I won't laugh either because I plan to use my 44 caliber musket balls from my black powder revolver.

Can't wait to print this.

You considered adding a solder spool holder?

I could, will look at adding it to the design.

Definitely going to make this! Looks awesome!