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CR-10S Pro Z-Height Block

by WildBillThe2nd Jan 27, 2019
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I found this pair of gauges extremely useful to set/reset the z-heights, especially for my printer of which the z-motors go out of sync by a few mm after each print job. I need to check the voltages going to both motors, or maybe the extruder side is always heavier to move up? Atm I'm deep in a big production with about 30 twelve-hour prints to make, so I don't have time to open up the printer and potentially adjust the voltages. In between prints, I use these gauges to quickly reset the z discrenpency back to zero and do a quick bed leveling. Thank you very much for designing and sharing this!

Your Z-desync is most likely not caused by any stepper voltages, this is pure mechanical misalignment from factory.
Loosen the screws that attach to the X-VSlot profile, then level it with above Blocks, retighten the screws in this position and you should be good, at least see improvement.
Creality have almost any Instructional Video completely wrong on the 10s-Pro, they have no clue about their own machine.
Detailed explanation can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI31OItLQ9w
Seems this Printer is unfortunatly not the right choice for your current Print Pipeline until you fixed all the issues.

I agree, thank for the linked video. It was lengthy but informative. I had heard people speak about the possibility of the X being out of square but had never quite grasped the required steps too correct it. The video made it clear.
I now have all the parts on hand to install the linked timing belt between Z-screws. I will be doing that as well to remove the possibility for the gantry to shift. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3387741

CR-10S Pro Dual Z Timing Belt Sync
by Urnzwy

Hey, thank you for your comment and sharing the video. It really baffled me with the regular z-misalignment after I installed the Tiny Machine firmware and followed their instruction on setting up both z heights by disabling the motors. Never thought about the possibility that the frame was not square to start with! This explanation seems to me makes perfect sense. Will try to square the x-bar tonight after the current print finishes and report back if that does any marvel. It is quite something with my x-bar severely unleveled, the prints still turn out quite acceptable. I think the ALB somewhat offset the z height differences. Hopefully once the frame is squared, I can stick to only manually leveling the bed, given the fact the stock sensor is really capricious. As to my current production, I'm kind of left with no other choice in the market because the parts I'm printing are 250mm wide by 280mm long. If there were alternative products with comparable build volume from more reputable manufacturers, I probably would go with one of those. Unfortunately when I purchased this printer before Christmas, it was the only choice to print the parts I need.

I took my machine apart over night, planning to follow the lead of the British Youtube video. There was some additional discovery. Looking closely at how the eccentric nut works, I realized that if it is turned, not only the lateral pressure between the wheel and z-pillar is changed, it will also generate a vertical force either upwards or downwards. If only one of the two nuts along the z-axis is adjusted, this will result in a vertical pressure on the respective side. My solution was to mark the thinest side of both nuts, pay attention to how much I had to adjust one and try to make symmetrical adjustment on the opposite side, thereby the twist force could be canceled. I also tried to align the x-bar square. In my particular case, the factory installation wasn’t too off.

Np ;-)
The ALB is indeed capable of mitigating this issue a bit. But up to 3mm Z-correction over every single layer will run you into trouble sooner or later.
Sad news: there is no way of manually leveling the 10s Pro! The ABL works also as z-end switch, you would need one for manual leveling.
Soo.. in theory its a nice concept, but it is just not precise enough to be conveniently usable. Only solution is inductive sensor, still waiting for mine.
Stock sensor needs z-offset readjustment with every single print. Quite annoying.

Honestly, if i would have known all this before, i would have just gotten me an CR10S NON Pro.

You can swap out the ABL sensor with a mechanical limit switch. I printed a mount to attach the limit switch to the 4020 and wired it up to the same header where ABL sensor plugged in on the ribbon cable break out board. I now level my bed manually with the aux feature, then fine tune by printing some single layer squares in each corner. It is so much nicer.

The 24V PSU to me is a big plus on the Pro. Heat bed only takes 5 min or so to get to 110*c not too shabby. When I get back around to it I'll be going all metal so I can print Nylon. Iv'e printed a bit of ASA at 255 but I feel I'm tempting fate. I've got a mirror on my bed so I don't want to go inductive. BL will get installed with the hot end.
If you are not doing higher temp engineering plastics I can see that the 10S might be a better choice.

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