MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.
Se interessa https://it.aliexpress.com/item/Trasporto-libero-del-DHL-BLV-mgn-Cubo-3D-Stampante-Estrusione-di-Alluminio-Full-Frame-Kit-w/32983902509.html?spm=a2g0s.90423188.8.131.527c4c4d0kNg3g
117 euro spedizione gratuita.
Arrivati in 5 giorni
Hello all. I apologize in advance if any of this has been asked before but there are so many posts and I could not find my question/answer. I love this project and plan on going supreme on it. Has anyone any idea if it is possible to augment Hiwin Rails for W Rails? How would one go about doing that. Secondly, is there any plans/configuration for a bigger bed (500x500)? Thanks for your work on this Ben. I look forward to any responses the community may have!
Edit - Wanted to put links to the W Rails CAD designs I was considering
Sorry to piggy back on your message, but i also would like to build with a 500mm x 500mm bed, any help.
Thanks in advance.
Which screws should be used for attaching the rails to the profiles?
I want to thank you Ben, that you have made such awesome project. THANK YOU
thanks for all your explanation and the links, you saved me a lot of work.
Just tipped you
So, just a heads up to anyone looking at the Sealand kit. Mine was supposed to ship on the 15th, and as far as I know, it has not yet. I also can't get a response from the seller about the delay.
Its early enough yet that I am not worried about it, I just thought I would give the community a heads up.
Mine delayed too but only two days, ordered on the 18th and after two days they sent and i am very very happy with them.
both my hypercubes converted to crappy cheap rails and the hiwin rails are just fantastic. i was worried but after installation quality confirmed. now i have hiwin rails on one of my hypercube. very easy to install fantastic experience. planning to build blv printer after all parts arrive and i ordered another rails set for this
Thank you blv for sharing this
sorry about my english
Got a response back. The heated bed was delayed. I will update further when I have more info.
Estimated delay is now 10-15 days. Considering I pre-ordered in March, I'm not thrilled about this...
i think its normal for aliexpress pre order. trianglelab store delayed me a pre order of extruder a month!
Is there a chance you are willing to design a normal Z endstop?
at first, a fantastic Project and outstanding Instructions for this.
I plan to rebuild this in the Dimension of 400400500mm. But not yet.
Summertime :) even in Northern Germany.
Therefore i´ll decided to start this mid Oktober.
Maybe the Duet3 is avaliable this date , which seems to be the outstanding Board atm.
So...I spent the extra $ on the HIWIN Rails that were suppose to be "smooth as a hot knife on a butter right out of the box." But that was not my experience from the set I purchased from the AliExpress seller linked in the BOM. Out of the box, it felt just like the clone I purchased from eBay, I turn them up vertically and the HIWIN Guide Block does not glide down at all. Does anyone have suggestions to make them slide across smoother?
I am 100% sure that it's a genuine Hiwin rails, Please try to clean and re-lubricate them.update: I had a chat with the store but he got no complaint about this item. additionally, no negative feedback has been left - On the contrary, all the feedback are very positive. after looking at the user profile: 0 likes, 0 shares, 0 collections, 0 following, 0 makes, 0 design. I apologize but, if this some kind of competitive war - please leave it out of the project. If not - please accept my apology and ignore what I wrote. try to lubricate them and contact the store.
I received the HIWIN rails yesterday and briefly tested them before posting my thoughts on the product here. I will clean and re-lubricate them and compare them again to the clones I purchased from eBay. Also, there's no reason for me to "complain" to the Seller, I would rather use them for the build than have to pay additional $ to ship the item back to China from the US. Hopefully those who purchased the Original HIWIN rails from Aliexpress can chime in about their experience with them also.
Update: After seeing other users having almost the same issues, I decided to contact the Seller.
Did you apply pressure to the carriage block when moving it? Mine do not glide by themselves well but once I have a little weight mounted they glide beautifully. I have my y axis mounted with no belts and it slides with the slightest tip.
Thats true ... give a little pressure to the carriage and she run ... but I thing the printhead is not heavy enough. in my case
yes, true. after i installed them it was perfect too.
First I would like to thank you for your excellent work and the effort you put into the documentation for us makers!
I'm also new to this plattform and registered especially for your project.
I ordered the rails at Blurolls shop too and am having an issue with 1 rail (not the carriage) which prohibits that the carriage is running smooth on 1/3 of the rail. The communication with Blurolls is not good: First they told me that the rails+carriage were of the wrong type because they supposedly got "the ones for heavy duty". I then contacted Hiwin here in Germany and they told me that they do not at all offer different types of MGN12H. Now I'm in the process to get a refund and/or to exchange the faulty rail which is more complicated than I hoped and as I experienced with other dealers on Aliexpress in the past.
If you do not trust me because I'm new to thingiverse I could mail you further information if you want me to.
H, their answer is a bit odd since mgn12 has two types: H and C + 3 types of precision grade + 3 types of preloads and they have 2 types of rails too. Back then when i started to plan the BLV mgn mod (for the Anet A8) i learned about it.. (pdf + screenshot attached)
Thanks for the Info. Forgot the "H" in my first post. First I thought there is some dust or so because the issue only exists on 1/3 of the rail. But that was not the case. Seems that the dimension of the rail is at 1/3 of the rail a little bit out of the required specs which can not be seen by the naked eye and for sure only measured with professional equipment. Such things may happen and I trust that the rails and carriages are genuine Hiwin. What bothers me is the slow and complicated communication with Blurolls to solve the issue.
Thats all I wanted to say so that other people can make their own decision wether they want to save money or order by a local dealer.
I'm waiting for my rails to arrive, let's hope they are good, I will let you know either way. It could be possible these are original Hiwin which where rejected at the quality control if they have some dimmension out of tolerance...
unfortunately, my local Hiwin supplier offers the Hiwin rails 400mm + mgn12H for 80$, so for me 38$ for each one is a bargain.
In Germany it is even more expensive: 90,60€ / $101,87 (including VAT).
Unfortunately I am not satisfied with the HiWinS from BlueRoll.
1 Rail/Carriages Combination works perfectly, the other four work, because the Carriages does not move one millimeter
when I straighten the rail. I have a cheap China combination here, that works fine.
Bluerolls has also written to me that these are heavy-duty carriages and they want to send me new ones, the right ones.
The support was not so bad. Have responded quickly and not even trying to convince me that I have to clean and lubricate first.
I have now received a tracking number and the Carriages are supposed to be by express next week with me ... Let's see if that gets better.
If everything works then so much the better and from me kudos to the support.
How can I find out if the ones they sent me are "heavy duty" carriages? Do they look different or having different markings on them? Thanks.
There is no heavy duty variant. Hiwin is only offering the versions that are listed in Bens attachements above (Hiwin Germany confirmed this to me). So its kind of weird of what Blurolls is talking about.
I don't find any marks for this specification. but you can make a little testing:
you can push the carriage (with two fingers) a little bit and move ... in my case the carriage run, with this pressure on it, light and easy.
I bought Hiwin carriages&rails directly from Hiwin Germany in the past. So these are proofed genuine. The carriages are also not moving by their own if you hold the rail at an angle. The reason is that if it would then the carriage would be sitting too loose on the rail and vibrations can have a negative impact on the component screwed to the carriage. Instead the carriage has to run smooth on the rail without any hickups (which one of mine does not) but there should be some slight resistance when moving it.
Hello, my humble opinion is the Teensy 3.2 is better alternative to the Arduino mini pro, because is 3.3v also has 3 serial port, Arduino IDE support, and the more important, probably you will have better Rx reading since you don't need the level shifter.
Another neopixel question:
The github notes talk about the Paneldue board. Is a paneldue required for this to work?
Yes, at the moment the PanelDue is required. To get the requred values for the NeoPixels, I read out the communication between the PanelDue and the Duet 3D Board. If no PanelDue is attached, then there is no serial communication.
It should be possible to do that communication with the Arduino. On the github page is the link to the open source code of the PanelDue. All needed info is located there. I just don't have the time to do the coding at the moment.
Just the PanelDue, or the PanelDue plus the LCD display? I ask because I've built the smartphone version of the printer.
This was a good question, worth to try out. I just disconnected the display from its board and the serial connection still worked. Means, yes. it is enough to have the display board.
I just updated the github page with that info. Thanks for the hint.
Thanks - I'm going to give it a shot.
I attached a photo of my working test setup.
A minor issue: I think the pins 6 and 8 in the neopixel wiring diagram are swapped.
Yes, pin6 is the left Neopixel and pin8 is the right one.
Does anyone have some tips, how to perfectly align the aluminium extrusions?
With the corner clamps(link in the BOM), I get everything else but not a 90° angle.
The Digital Protractor also seems to be unuseable to get a perfect angle. One Problem with the Protractor is to place it on the extrusions, because the extrusions didn't have a flat surface.
I've started to use a machinist 90° steel angle to assemble the parts of the frame. This seems to work, but it's very exhausting.
What's about the corner clamps which Ben set in the video of the frame assembly?
This model looks better, than those from the BOM.
try this help-tools ... I've made quickly for you. no idea if you help?
No problem, if it helps you then I have not done it in vain.
Align best you can and secure the screws, but do not tighten. Then measure from corner to corner in diagonal. Opposite dimensions should be identical. Tap lightly to shift the parts until the dimensions match. Then tighten the screws. Hope this helps.
I know you write that I have to use normal extrusions. But I got the hole frame in v slot profiles. Is there any reasonable answer that I can’t use them?
As i wrote a few times before: with V slot the 12mm linear rails will be over a 9.5~mm gap instead of a 6~5mm gap, so it doesn't leave a lot of wiggle room for adjustment. You can use it but it will be less optimal for adjustments..
The step file is in the download.
as far as I can see is in the downloads only the stl file. And in the entire step file of the printer, I did not see the big air scrubber. Only the smaller one.
could you provide the step files from big air Scrubber? Thanks in advance.
And another question: Why is there a "Y" on both belt tensioners? Should not one be an "X" on one of them? =)
My Paneldue is a 41/2 inch version. Is it possible you could remix a 41/2 inch front panel left plate?
Million thanks in advance.
I have a strange question - can anyone provide a link to the test cube being used here? I've finished building my cube, and I want to test with the same small calibration cube. Can't find it anywhere on thingiverse.
Thank you in advance,
Here you go, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:277394
Hello all, Hi Ben. I am very pleased with my new CUBE! But I'm already upgrading it. I switched to a Bondtech, direct drive setup, with a Mosquito hotend. I managed to hack the V6 mount, and print a vgroove adapter, to get the Mosquito mounted. Its working very well. I was just wondering if there was any possibility of a dedicated Mosquito mount, with the IR height sensor? I'm sure someone will make one soon. My CAD skills are pretty primative :( Thanks again for all your hard work and dedication.
I just downloaded the CAD files of the mosquito, i will try to do my best and keep you updated.
HOLY MOLY that quality is insane!
Hey. There was such a problem - I need ( we all need it :)) a m4x30 screw with a hex head in the belt tensioner, but in my city there are no such. Maybe someone already reworked on m5?
Looking at the wiring. Is there a reason these are connected in this way?
Extruder : E1stp
Heater: E1 HEAT
Thermistor: E0 TEMP
Heater2: E0 HEAT
Thermistor2: E1 TEMP
Thank you very much, on the last update I changed parts positions and forgot to update
the heaters and extruder. anyway, thanks to you I have fixed it now :)
Thanks for clarifying. btw you forgot to move the optional word.
Everyone is looking for the big sizes but I've decided to build BLV mgn Cube SE(Small Edition) :) - for Anet 220x200mm table. Most of the parts are on the way but frame is almost finished. Looks quite nice and very-very rigid.
That's going to be a little tank. Impressive!
You can post your progression on the Facebook group, i know that few members looked for this kind of build.
Thx for the fanatics design.
I’m working on reconversion from my hyper cube printer too this design.
I’m thinking on that I will use MKS 1,4 board using marlin firmware. Instead of my old ramps 1,4 board.
Any one got a great copy of the firmware from blv cube ?
Thinking ahead, is there enough room for a 400x400 bed? I will be building one in the near future and I'm just thinking ahead. Looking at the pictures there does seem to be a decent amount of room from the 300mm bed to the leadscrews and figured I would ask.
There's enough room to fit a bigger bed, but the linear rails in X and Y are only 400mm long.
Gotcha. I can always revise that in the future. Initially I'm just going to build it as designed with the 465 tall build height.
I know this has been asked before, but even after studying the 3D model, it's unclear what the Y endstop is bolted in to. Does anyone know or have a photo of this installed?
Answering my own question: It's the mirrored part Y_endstop_front_left_optional. It's just not shown in the model.
Speaking of the Y endstops... What screws attach them? Not the same M2.5 that the X endstop uses... Hmm
I used the same M2.5 screws. The attachment can be seen well in the 3D Browser viewer. The link is in the description of Ben.
The issue is that the alternate Y endstop on the other end appears to be floating in space. It's no big deal.
The screw hole sizes for these mounts are smaller than the one for the z mount. I suspect printing using a .4mm nozzle is coarse enough that it might not make a difference. For most parts I printed using a .2 nozzle to get better strength and accuracy, and I can confirm that you'd need to drill out the holes for a M2.5 screw. I ended up using some self tapping screw eyes which look odd but really lock down the switch.
Add a cable chain X Z support https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3554370
I created a little support tool to get perfect aligned rows of holes in the walls. The jig is made for M3 screws.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3552921
The end stop of the jig is created for walls with a thickness of 3 mm or more.
Great idea, that helps for perfect mounted sidewalls.
Is there experience when the 90 ° angles for 2020/2040 are omitted?
This allows the side walls to be mounted flush on the aluminum profile.
I do not want to risk the good stability of the dice.
do you think you'll add a version with a cable chain like:
I think it would look amazing!
Did anyone here order the needed extrusions from Motedis?
I ordered extrusions on the 30th march but they still haven't even shipped them yet...
Did anyone here encounter something similar with Motedis?
Juts got a message from them regarding one of my current order. Motedis say they are behind schedule, their team got a flew of epic proportions, most of them was out sick last week.
I ordered my parts at about 20th February and they arrived last weak... So 30th march is not realy long ;)
If they are done with the cutting and dont ship in the next days, you should ask them friendly in the ControllCenter.
They are too cheap to claim about some weaks for deliverment.
Hi, I have ordered from them many times. Indeed they are not always fast. Once took almost 3 weeks for manufacturing plus shipping. You can ask them in the control center of your account. In the end I'm always satisfied with their quality.
So, I understand that the European extrusions should be used- because it has a smaller gap and is more optimal than v-slot for aligning the mgn rails. However, someone offered me some V-slot extrusions, and so I was wondering if I could primarily use these to build the frame but get a few European extrusion for the extrusion with mgn rails. How feasible is this setup?
Tell me where is the end of the z axis.
Hello Ben, hello community.
I received today the plate from spring steel. Did you paint the surface black, because of the IR sensor? Or did you decide for another printing surface? Thanks.
Hi, at the beginning I have used the PEI energetic sent me with it - it worked great.
as a result of an accident (used soft acid instead of isopropanol alcohol IPA and it destroyed my PEI) - I replaced it with
a black frosted sticker for 3$ on Aliexpress - to my surprise, it works just great and the IR results even better while using it.
i will probably never going to change the flexible spring sheet - to my opinion its the best choice I have done.
The most convenient, fast and clean way to get prints off from the bed.
Dear Ben. We have powdered textured PEI sheet just like Prusa i3 mk3, here is the link:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Double-Side-Powdered-textured-PEI-Sheet-for-Prusa-i3-MK2-5-MK3-3d-printer/33002519665.html?spm=2114.search0604.8.13.216c48a16boPks
Hope this will help every one.
OK thank you for the info. Very friendly. You have helped me a lot.
UPDATE: Facebook Group
You are more than welcome to share your thoughts, build videos/photos and more at the BLV mgn Cube - Facebook group
Hello, I started a Facebook group in English if you guys what to join. It might be a quicker way of getting help.....and posting pictures of our builds....Ben I hope that's cool with you.
I already opened an official Facebook group.
It was hidden for 28 days and now it was released, you are more than invited to join it :)
Hy Ben. I was just testing the new almost ready printer,and i am used to Repetier Host and Slic3r on my other machines,do you have any special custom Gcode on the beginning of the code to use the mesh table? I cannot seem to make it work,at list i can not see the Z movement whe i am printing,and i have a bad mesh on my table.
Edit: And is there a way to compensate the skew? As i have made the calibration square and i am off by 0.9mm on a 300mm lenght of the table,at the moment i will try to play with the belt tension to see if i can compensate some more.
Sorry to bother you Ben,i found what i was looking for.At the start of the code use G29 S1 command to use the bed mesh level from the file when printing.Took a bit of reading to find the info,now i know a lot more about the G-code.
I still not been able to calibrate the machine in perfect square, i guess i will have to dismantle the X axis guide and remount it again in perfect square with the Y guides.(That's 2 days of work )
have any of you managed to build it with a smaller volume?
Has someone remixed it for a 200mm x 200mm x 200mm build volume?
I connected the 24v momentary switch to the LED strip per the wiring diagram. When I press the button, the switch and LEDs illuminate, but when I let go, they go off. Am I missing something?
use a latching switch instead of momentary switch
I am using the momentary buttons to execute commands.
One is a panic button that stops all / the other is a homing button.
If you would like to connect led, then you should choose the katching locking 12v
Presumably a 12v latching switch.
I just wanted to be sure since the BOM calls for 24v momentary.
Hi, make sure you have the latest FW config with th M80 command at the start of the config.
after that you need to hold the push button for 3 seconds and release.
I think that applies to the power switch. The LED strip is independent of the Duet board, right?
Please forgive me, i didn't noticed that you meant to the LED strip.
The led strips comes with remote control and controlled manually (notice that you need to use LM2596 and adjust it to 12V before you connect it). Maybe in the future when the Arduino code will be ready we could connect it to the Arduino and it will be controlled by the Duet.
Thanks Ben. Just making sure. :-)
I've checked against the wiring diagrams and it looks like the stepper color wires are in a different layout than your wiring diagram.
I'm having some issues with X and Y movement and I'm not sure exactly what's going on. When i move the hotend towards the back it also moves left.
When I move it right, it also moves forward.
If I move it towards the front or the left it's smooth and only 1 axis moves. The Z axis don't move at all.
I wrote a comment but Thingiverse system flagged it for moderation from some reason.
Until they will release the comment, pic and links that were in the comment attached.Link1Link2
Note: On Sunday i will make a video demonstrating how to find the Coil pairs, Homing directions and the commands direction from the guide.
@Blv @CrazyCreator Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like it was from the belt assembly. I think 1 of the washers I used in between the 2 bearings was a little too wide so the belt was riding on the washer instead of the bearing.
I resolved those movement problems but now each axis moves twice the distance it should which is strange because I used your config and all the parts suggested in the BOM. gotta love electronics.
I took the videos for demonstration, now i am editing the video (adding PIP frames) and subtitles.
Hope to publish it in the next couple of days, thanks and i apologize for the delay :)
My comment too ... Flagged for moderation and later delete :(
But with your new Pics all is clear ... But I can't wait to see a video :D
followed you wiring plan and everything came out perfect. absolutly no problems
This is very important information, I suspect that OMC-steppersonline changed the wiring with the new full D-cut version steppers.
The solution is not that complicated:
M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 goes backwards blv: its was S1
M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 goes backwards blv: its was S1
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes backwards WAS 0
I added the correct homing direction (attached pic: "homing.jpg")
and axis direction (attached pic: "stepper direction.jpg")
Please keep me updated, since i want to fix the wiring diagram according to the new wiring layout.
I also ordered the new full D-cut version steppers from OMC for testing but with your help it will be way more fast to fix it.
Thank you !
That sounds like the same Problem I wrote yesterday.
But my Posting is unanswered. My Posting with Pics, for clarify again:
Hello @Ben and everyone else,
If we connect the X and Y engine as on your plan = Picture: WiringFromBen
then we get the following error message at the first homing = Picture: ErrorMessage
If we connect it so: = Picture: NewWiringPlan
then the X and Y motors can be moved.
Unfortunately, we do not yet know in which direction the print head has to move if, e.g. Y = -20mm drive. Does he have to go back then?
I wrote a Posting yesterday, about this Problem. Your Problem sound like the same problem.
The Posting again:
Hello Ben and everyone else,
Hello, I want to congratulate you for this huge job you shared. Very conscientious work and high quality shows that the precise things animate you. Thank you for sharing.
A question: Why you do not take ballscrew for axes Z
you have uploaded the new config file for the duet.
Is the change only because of the power on function by the PSU?
Because in my planning there is no power switch. The printer should simply be connected to a WIFI socket and be able to start when switching on the socket and be switched off via the web interface + Power off. Should I use the older or the newer config file?
Yes, the update related to the PS_ON pin only and you will not be affected.
You can use the config even if you are not going to use the Power switch
Thanks Ben =)
Hi, can I use this motherboard?
Its a heic format, can you please upload a jpg or write the name of the board please?
Yes, you can use it.
notice that it will be noisy and if you will use the BOM steppers it may struggle a bit.
also, you will have to configure marlin - its not an easy task if you have never done it.
Can anyone tell me how silent is this thing? Thats one of my most important aspects (or my girlfriends) :)
currently the fans makes more noise then the steppers motors.. you can barely hear the printer.
For comparison its about 90% less noise then ender3/CR-10
Can you add to the BOM the 4 knurled nut and the 4 spring for the bed?
Thanks in advance
Good idea ... I search this too
Hi Ben.. great work.. thank you..
Do you think of using a ambient temperature and maybe a humidity sensor on the printer? it would be interesting.. what do you think?
If you search Arduino temperature and humidity sensor you will find how to build your own. I plan to add this to my printer with extra heaters to control the build chamber temperature.
Or you can buy one already made like this. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC12V-LED-Digital-Display-Dual-Outputs-Temperature-and-Humidity-Controller-XH-M452-Thermostat-Regulator-Thermometer-Hygrometer/32965086782.html?
Fully enclose, add temperature control, and a misquito hotend and we have printer capable of printing Ultem. That would be game changing.
Yes I am working towards that although with a water-cooled Chimera print head. Initially I am going to use a V6 print head to reprint all the Cube parts in ABS. Print bed is 500W AC, will also add 2 250W chamber heaters to control internal temperature.
I have chosen a water-cooled hot end as air-cooled hotends can't cool sufficiently at 80 degree plus chamber temps.
i will love to see how do you set up your bed. i'm worry if 310x310 x 4mm or even 5mm aluminum bed its to heavy, are you use a thermal fuse/switch?
My bed is 310 X 310 X 4, I think you might be underestimating how much power the stepper motors can deliver. Some things I plan to make will be close to 2 KG so the weight of the bed is only a fraction of that. However, I have considered adding 2 more lead screws and moving them to the corners of the bed frame and driving them with belts. This will allow a change in ratio to say 1 to 5 also but the main reason I have considered this is if the bed has any play it is going to be amplified printing very tall items.
As Solid State Relays can fail in the on state it needs protection. I am waiting for 155 degree thermal fuses to arrive, another thing I have not done also is add an earth wire to the bed for my own safety. As the bed is electrically isolated if the silicone heater pad AC voltage did connect to the bed it could be live and without an earth it would not shut off.
Hello Gary i order one week ago one ac 750w silicone heater 310x310, now I'm looking for the aluminum sheet , also i will try (i don't knows how to do it yet, but any suggestion are welcome) 3 z, i like the idea to have a true level bed , thanks to you i will looking for a 4mm more confident
thank you sou much for share
I got an offcut piece of 4MM Aluminium from the local scrap metal dealer. However, I had to spend quite a bit of time straightening it, if I could get a piece of cast tooling plate at the right price I would buy that instead.
I can't open the SWG file of the panels, from fusion it remains empty, from illustrator it says error in the file you can check the file and redo Upload
thanks or have a vector version for cutting thanks again
Hi, the DWG contains more components and need to be opened with fusion360. I just asked a friend of mine to check it with his account.
He used Fusion360 without a problem, he also was able to use Autodesk online viewer and it worked just fine (screenshot attached). Usually fusion it will not open the file with a double click. you should first upload the file to your file account (upload button), then you can open it from the files list in your account.
thanks for the answer I tried from autodesk and it opens ... but my shop to cut plexiglass panels says that with that file it can't do the measurements .. do you by chance have a vector version .. because from the view not you can save in any format but just see .. thanks again
I tried to export a dxf file (vector format) - attached to the comment.
Please tell me if you can open it now. if you do - I will add it to the project zip.
thank you .. Ben
it's perfect they are cutting the panels now in black plexiglass 5 mm then place the photos .. thanks again for the excellent work and support
Yesterday i took my second attempt to print the 4 leds diffusers. At about 40% the print gets wiggling. This results in a falling down of the print. Are ther any tipps how to print these really high parts?
I've tryed it with 80mm/s in PETG, bed temperatur 75°C and a print temperatur of 216°C. My first attempt was without a brim, the second with 12 outlines.
For the PETG try to print using the raft, first layer of the 40mms raft as for all the rest of the print, height from the raft 0.18 mm bed 75c
I print this part with a Prusa Mk3. Print time is a bit high, but the quality is good.
PLA - Hotbed 60 ° C - Hotend 220 °C
Filament of "Enotepad"
For the settings, see the pictures.
!! Prints in vase mode, the printing process is "smoother." :)
Hi, I have printed the diffusers in a late stage while my BLV mgn Cube printer was working (Since the bed is stable and move only up/down i had no wiggle issue). However, I do recommend using wide brim (at list 20 outlines) and lower speed - it will make it more stable
Why is at the "rear corner left" opening for the 19.0mm bearing a 19.6mm diameter hole? is that not too much?
It has a small gap to support it, also mind that some of the users preferred not to use
the bearing (sometimes the motor shaft not straight aligned).
I got this number after 15-20 assembly/disassemble tests, just to make sure it will fit and will be easy to install.
Ok, thanks for your explanation, Ben.
Has anyone used the V6 Volcano style heater blocks and nozzles on this? I use mainly high temp materials like polycarbonate and glass filled nylon, and I am worried the standard V6 won't be able to keep up. There is a pretty straightforward 8.5mm length difference between the 2, the volcano being the longer one. Can this simply be accounted for with the IR height sensor? Would I need to make any adjustments to the X Carriage aside from maybe the part cooling fan?
Noticed that stepperonline added the full-cut steppers as their own products.
The specs of these steppers seem identical from what I can see (apart from the shaft). I just ordered a bunch of them so shame on me if I ordered the "wrong" steppers ;)
X/Y Stepper motor: https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor/nema-17-bipolar-0-9deg-46ncm-65-1oz-in-2a-2-8v-42x42x48mm-4-wires-full-d-cut-shaft.html?limit=100
Z stepper motors: https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor/nema-17-bipolar-59ncm-84oz-in-2a-42x48mm-4-wires-w-1m-cable-and-connector-full-d-cut-shaft.html?limit=100
Extruder stepper motor: was already a model with full d-cut shaft
I think your purchase was the right one, they ran out of stock with the D-CUT a month ago and last Thursday they sent me the shipment, surely that's the new series
hi do you have a site in europe to order the hiwin linear rail and what reference did you take and the engines thank you
hello what rail did you buy with the trolley MGN12H-Z0 and for the screws for z what screw did you buy how much it cost you I'm french and I do not understand German thank you
I bought the Hiwin-linear-rails and bearing blocks here. Best quality.
2x for y-axis: MGN12H-Z0
1x for x-axis: MGN12H-Z0
For the Z-axis linear bearings of simple quality.
At this I changed the bearing balls.
I also ordered the linear rails there.
I am absolutely satisfied. All original parts.
Ordered 5x MGN-12H-Z0,
3x400mm and 2x600mm MGNR12R Rails.
However, the thing is not quite cheap. I have paid 505 euros.
But the quality is very good. The bearings run like a "hot knife on butter". :)
signal that for all Italians if they want Plexiglass panels .. you can get them from www.plexishop.it already cut to laser precision from 3mm 125 euros ... from 5mm 162 euros at your choice the colors.
ciao, sai dirmi sè possibile costruire questo progetto con minore volume?
I'm looking forward to build this printer soon. At the moment I am still reading the documentation. Here I ask myself for what are the parts "2020_Jig.stl" and "2040_Jig.stl"?
Thank you for your great work!
It helps to fix rails in a proper position.
ah perfect! Thank you very much
Hi. How to put Direct and BlTouch together? What should I print?
The parts that have "Direct drive" and for the block, you need this remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3474835
Make sure not to print double parts and so.
do you think it is possible to have a version for this sensor that works very well http://www.pibot.com/pibot-optical-reflection-endstop-rev143.html
Thanks for a great design. I want to cut out the main Jig with my CNC and Fusion 360 hates STL. Could you please provide a step file?
All step files in the download ...
Not the main jig as far as I can see.
What kind of throat are you using? With ptf tube or the all metal?
If you are printing with Filament that requires temperatures above 250 you need an all-metal Hotend as the PTFE tube will start to fail above 250 and result in many problems.
I like to use PTFE tube since i am printing mostly PLA and PETG.
for higher temps filaments you need the All-metal
I have an all metal but thinking to change to PTFE because i use only PLA
I use for 80% PLA then petg nylon .. and almost never ABS but I have always used only all the metal hotend of the MICRON 3DP https://micron-eme.com/ and it works divinely with everything without tubes of every kind, and I'd like to be able to mount it here too .. I am trying to draw myself the hook but I am a little scarce on fusion 360 .. but I am trying
I asked the same question of the seller (sealand) that is selling the kit for this printer, and they are shipping with an all metal hotend.
Has anyone looked at adding a door and top enclosure to this printer? Any reason not to? I mocked something up in Inventor. Just printed parts, acrylic sheet, and corrugated plastic board, super cheap. Anyone have any thoughts about this general design?
I am enclosing mine, as yet I have not decided exactly how to do it, your idea is under consideration.
That's exactly what I was looking for! It would be great if you could upload the files and measures so that I could build something like that. That would be amazing!
Well, this is honestly pretty sloppy work, I was just tinkering for visualization purposes while watching a movie. I will polish up and publish this as a remix when I end up building it in a month (ordered one of the sealand kits).
That would be really great! Thank you for uploading the files. This is really good work and a great idea! Exactly how I will build my case. I'm already looking forward to the finished version.
I have a question about the fan-duct. I can only mount one of the nuts. The opening is not deep enough to assemble both?!
Can anybody confirm this?
Many thanks for your great work!
One question regarding hotend. You are using E3D V6 model which we can call a classic :) I have found another model which looks very promising to me. Could you please look at the drawing attached and tell what parts should be updated so new hotend will fit. It seems a little longer. Thanks!
Look here. This should be the stl file for this hotend.
A remix of Heliart.
Thanks, but it is not the same. My variant is longer but not shorter. :)
For me the M5x10 screws are too long, also with one ISO 7089 washer under the screwhead.
The use of two washer is for me as an engineer a little unsatisfying.
Is known, just use M5x8 screws.
Hy Ben.I readed all the comments in this section and i could not find or understand where the big air scrubber goes.I can see the small ones mounted in fusion but cannot find the bigger one.And the tricky question is what are they supposed to do?As i can see the top of the printer is always open.
My printer is so far at 60% completed,waiting for the XY motors and the noctua fans.
Big thanks fhis Great design!
Just swap the little ones for the big ones.
A tip for those who can not print large parts or print with their own printers with less precision.
For little money you can print the parts. Many different materials and colors.
-> 6 Euro (without shipping costs)
Hi Ben. Thanks for all your hard work on this project. I finally have my cube up n running. Just working on the details now. I'm having trouble with the SSRelay and momentary on switch. I have everything wired, exactly to your wiring diagram, but I'm not getting any out put voltage from the Duet board, to hold the relay on? Am I doing something wrong, or does something have to be changed in the config settings. Thanks for any help with this.
Hi Michael, thank you.
I just noticed the the zip contains an old version of the config without the turn on PS_ON command, i will upload a new version of the config on Sunday. Meantime, just add please to the config.g the command M80
The M80 needs to be on the first lines - so it will be executed immediately after the Duet gets power.
I can confirm this. I've tried both toothed and smooth idler pulley, the toothed one has smaller bearings and is weak af, while the smooth one is pretty good actually been almost a year and nothing noticeable yet. But going with F623ZZ is wayyy better in my opinion.
excuse my stupidity but why d'ont use toothed bearing pulley instead of flanged bearing for belt angular deviation? (pitch synch?) don't worry about vibration result on print ? i'm planning to make your fabulous project. thx for your monster work.
once Ben said:
"most of the smooth pulleys have weak bearing inside, this is why I preferred to use the 623zz + washer between them.
It's giving me the best results"
that's why ;)
Amazing work Blv. I just thinking a tool changer on this thing would be awesome. Your probably to buzzy right now, but perhaps somebody in the community could have a look. I don't want to detract from what you have designed, but given the investment involved to build one it could a lot of value.
I´m closed starting the build of the BLV Core XY in combination with a tool changing system designed by "smoki3": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2946805.
This guy is using the DUET board as well, so it should not be a big deal to combine both Things at the end. The x carriage will have to be modified for Ben´s belt alignment.
I have started buying and printing the parts required for the CoreXY and the tool changer system. So, nothing to show right now.
Hope to get into the build itself soon, but time is limited as well.
That's the tool changer I was thinking of. It might be good to increase the length of the y axis extrusions if possible to get more room for the tools. If you flipped the head 180° the extrusion directly below and in front of the rear air cleaners would be a great place to mount the tools. Alternatively you could mount them to the front belt tensioners, but that might limit you to only 2 tools and won't look so good.
The first szenario is describing exactly were I´m going to... and yes, you are right, increasing the length of the y axis is required, because of the rear belts crossing the area in front of the rear extrusions. It might be helpfull for the x axis length as well. Last to increase the number of tools.
Two´more things to check:
I want to build an xycore printer too
But I use a bigger bed with 400*400 mm
I`ll use your printed parts but I also desing some parts self
So I want ask if I can get the Parts as Inventor or STEP file?
Regards M. Maier
check the zip file. there is a STEP
What an incredible printer ! Congratulations to BLV for this wonderful project ...
-- Can we resume printing after a power failure?
-- A filament end detector is planned?
Hi, Thank you very much
and thank you James for answering him :)
Duet duet wifi mainboard supports power failure resume if you set it up and it also supports filament runout if you get a sensor. Check out the Duet forums for that sort of information. Very helpful there. https://forum.duet3d.com/categories
Thank you for your answer ... ;)
Hi Ben. I'm curious. Since speed in the z direction is not an issue, what is the reason for chssoing the 4-start lead screw over the single start? Wouldn't the single start give better control over resolution of the movement in z per step?
You can use both. you just have to change the steps per mm in the firmware.
Both 1 and 4 start lead screws can give you a exact 0.1 and 0.06 layer height
The prusa calculator does not have a pre set for 1 or 4 start screws but you can use the gear ratio.
You can also check the optimal layer height, but 1 or 4 starts are both fine.
Yes this makes sense. I was curious if there was a reason Ben chose one over the other.
FYI here are the calculations (at 16 uSteps):
1-start = 2mm/turn
200 step/turn x 16uStep/step x 1turn/2mm = 1600 uStep/mm, or 0.000625mm per uStep
200 step/turn x 16uStep/step x 1turn/8mm = 400 uStep/mm, or 0.0025mm per uStep
Both should be sufficient for 0.06mm layer height.
Just asked the same question few hours before you lol
Does anyone know if the V6 hotend in the Sealand kit is all-metal? And is the firmware configured for this with a max temp of 300c?
I have a fair bit of experience printing on commercial machines, but this will be my first build. Sorry if these are stupid questions!
Looking forward to building this machine, and thanks so much to Ben for designing it! Ben, do you have a paypal link or something you like to get tips directly to, or just the tip function on Thingiverse?
My 5" display has moved the screen slightly to the right. I leave it that way now.
The foil is too old, does not stick well.
The idea with the switch socket was good, only the aluminum extension 2020 is in the wrong place :)
I have had that same issue. I fixed it in my version so I have uploaded a remix.
You're suggesting to use an 8mm lead for the leadscrew, but isn't better to use 2mm lead instead ?
I can't get the BLV_mgn_Cube-Frame_calculator.xlsx to work. I put Z height and the frame value change correctly but when I put in the bed size like "300x500" the calculator don't change the value to the right one. Is it a typo problem?
Also the first value is X axis right? and the latter one is Y?
Currently, there is only a drop list that you can select only 2 versions: CR-10 bed OR Anet 300mm bed.
Why? unfortunately, every manufacturer makes his beds with different screw positions. The bed carriage extrusions length depends on the distance of the bed screws. I am working now on a version which you will enter the distance and it will
calculate the needed length.
Well, I just need the frame length that's all since I probably get tooling plate and stick silicone heater to it so I will drill the mounting hole myself.
Awesome design btw, definitely build this one soon.
I took the gt2 16t bore 3mm (not only for y carridge) for the belts instead of the 623zz, which have the same external diameter so that they fit perfectly to the molded parts, as can be seen in the picture, to prevent the toothed belt part due to pressure deformed with time. what do you think?
Dear Fabio, although The GT2 16t can fit exactly, I'm afraid they will not stand with the heavy load/pressure.
The cheap Chinese idler will fail after 10-20 hours of work, while a good gt2 can handle much more but less then 623zz bearings.
If you will hear a squicking sound - you should know that the idlers need to be replaced.
In case that you decides to use the 623zz please flip the belts on the rear so the flat side of each belt will touch the corner bearing (and not the teeth side).
thanks for the clarification, in case we wear them I will replace them with quality bearings made in Italy, thank you very much
Is it possible for you to make a mount for the LCD 2004. I think some of us who doesn't use duet might use it since its pretty cheap. I'll try to make it but its pretty hard to edit it from the stl or step.
Here's the STEP- and STL-file for a Ramps 2004 LC-Display.
Just fill in the "hole" in Ben's front panel file and install the ramp :)
Either with Fusion 360 or TinkerCAD or other programs.
Done with the remix ! here's the link :
Never been so excited remixing stuff !!
Hey, thanks for that, it would make it easier to edit !! Maybe I'll post a remix for others to use.
UPDATE: about a week ago a store (Aliexpress) contacted me and wanted to offer for us a kit for the project.
They manage to gather and make a pretty good KIT that contains most of the needed electronics, Black Aluminium frame, screws, pre-crimped wiring, panels, magnetic bed, steppers, DuetWifi board, brackets and more (without printed parts and without 5" LCD). I think its a pretty convenient solution, especially when part of the deal is genuine Hiwin rails (Hiwin rails alone costs at my area 400$), 300mm bed with embedded magnets + powdered PEI sheet (like Prusa MK3 bed), BMG clone extruder and high-quality V6 clone..
Personally, i think that 799$ + shipping is a good deal for this kit, i wish i had it back then.. i want so bad the Hiwin rails :)link for the kit at aliexpress
Dangit...wish I saw this earlier today. I just ordered all the hardware other than the extrusions and it was only $40 less. That price is quite a deal considering it also comes with steppers, cloned duet, etc.
That's really not a bad price for black extrusions and everything. That bed sounds very convenient. The shipping is pretty in line for what other sellers wanted just for the frame.
I splurged on the Hiwin rails because of your positive posts about them. They shipped them expedited UPS last Friday and I will be receiving them this Friday. Amazing speed for China to the US. They will be my official first piece of the puzzle.
I check your links ... But you linked to Store: Sealand, not Blurolls
yup, i mixed the store name and the brand. this seller has two stores of his "Blurolls" brand.
Perfect .... for all. Especially for those who like it comfortable: D and just spend a few $ (€) and want more.
This is a big step in the right direction. After all, we all want to make this project something big and, above all, longer-term.
Hi Ben, this looks good. I just ordered last week the Full kit (part for part :) ) and waiting now for the next two months for them :( ...
So first, thank you very much for the work you did with this kit for the people who don't want to klick eatch componend individual!
First thougt I had, is the Tax and duty I would have to pay in Germany to buy a 720€ Printer + 130€ Shipping + tax + duty ... in many little parts it is cheaper for me ;).
And secondly I have one Question about the offer of this Aliexpres store: They claim their DuetWifi board as "cloned", didn't you warned us from buying the cloned DuetWifi boards?
Its really depends on the country tax laws and some luck :)
Personally, i would always recommend getting the original DuetWifi. as I said before, the current clones will work exactly
the same but there is a really big "rights" issue with some of the manufactures that not putting the needed credit.
Since there were so many requests and discussions about one place to get most of the parts, right now this is the only available option. BTW, I'm myself about to pull the trigger on the Hiwin rail set from this store..
In which Step I need the Phillips round head Screw's? I can't find in the Videos.
And what is the reason for this Screwhead? Can I use the Button Head Socket Cap to?
I found 2 of them. https://youtu.be/O5G3dKr_gxg?t=24
here are 2 https://youtu.be/OHpfga6H3ys?t=41
here 2 https://youtu.be/t5tml2fCZKo?t=56
here 2 https://youtu.be/t5tml2fCZKo?t=77
But without any reason ... I can use the normaly Button Head Screws too. Or not?
as long the screwheads are not to big, then you can.
I test it :)
after you tested tell us which screw you used.
Yes of course
I know there has been several comments regarding sizing so I thought I would share what I came out with on my build (see my other comments). As Ben has said he has gone through significant testing for the sizes he has posted but I know like myself some want to go bigger. I used 600mm and 550mm extrusions to build mine and that is how I came up with the approximate measurements below. My max bed size will be 475mm x 515mm (XY) My max print hight will be 420mm give or take 5 mm.
Approximate sizing for Ben’s Cube:
Corners extrusion length= desired height + 195mm
Z rail length = corner extrusion length -149mm (running rail to Z mount)
Z screw length= corner extrusion length -179mm
Y axis main extrusion length= desired y axis bed length + 85mm
MGN rails y axis length = y axis main extrusion length – 35mm
X axis main extrusion length= desired x axis bed length + 75mm
MGN rails x axis length= x axis main extrusion length -140mm
Can you post a close-up picture(s) on how you've run the cable management at the hot-end: Endstop switches, Hot-end, thermistor, fan, etc.. There must be a clean way to get all those cables up to the cable locker.
Thanks in advance,
I have to realize that some users strike a rough tone (remix page).
We should all appreciate Ben's work and be happy to let us share his work. We are happy to assist Ben with this and a correct way of communication is necessary.
Thank you Frank :)
Is anyone thinking of using piezo sensor for auto bed leveling?
That would eliminate the drawback of IR sensor for surfaces like Ultrabase and would be very accurate.
I've tested a sensor from Lerdge 3D. --> https://bit.ly/2OxLE8O
Precision piezo from precisionpiezo.co.uk are perfect compatible with duet and on the duet forum you can find a lot of info and help from the precision pieso guys.
Thanks for your message. I was going to use ultrabase and IR sensor but I guess it's not doable. I should have looked more into it...
I'm doing a new tipe of v6 fan with 4020 or 4010 lateral position at 22° that work with more flow. Who interest?
I think that we are as community can make it even better.
This is why you are more then welcome to upload a new remix !
Could you please provide the .step file?
Dear Patrick, the step file is available from day 1 of the project.
Please read carefully the thing description, you will find the step file in the zip file :)
Aliexpress is having a sale in 2 days. A lot of the items listed in the parts list for this build will be discounted.
in somem of the pics I see a spray bottle.
What is this for ?
Nice one :)
Its an Isopropyl alcohol spray. right after removing the printed item i am spraying isopropyl alcohol on a Cutton wipe
and clean the flexible sheet. It keeps the sheet clean and the printed objects stick to the bed without any problems.
Hi Ben !
First of all, thanks for your great work ! It's just awesome. You can be proud of this build.
I'm building your fantastic printer. Well, I'm currently waiting for the parts from Aliexpress.
I want to contribute to this project too.
I'm currently working on a simple Google Spreadsheet so that people will be able to make their own Bill Of Materials and track their orders. The way it's made makes it easy to see what you need to order, what you already ordered, when it arrives (if you enter shipping date), etc...
When I have everything I will also try to document my building process for others to see.
In the mean time, I noticed a few typos in your thing description :
You wrote "Soon i will add a PDF that will contain the exact measurements that you need for the boards." You already did it so you can remove this sentence.
There is also two things I was wondering :
How I should modify the panels for the 475mm pannel.
From what I see I need to change the 540mm distance to 640mm for the right and left pannels, the 440 distance to 540mmm to the back pannel. Bottom pannel remain unchanged. But I have no idea what needs to be changed with the front pannel... Mostly because there is no picture of the printer with a front pannel.
Where does the big air scrubber go ? Same places as the small ones ?
I added a 3D viewer for the Panels too: https://a360.co/2JGlYZ4
Hi, Thank you very much :)
First, I think that it's an excellent idea!
The lines that you suggested are now fixed and I am working on another 3D viewer for the Panels/walls.
now, the big air scrubbers are my favorites - you can install them on the right/left top extrusions of the printer.
they are very efficient and i even printed another one for my soldering station :)
First, congratulation for your work, the way you are documenting it, and the fact you're sharing it with us. It's just awesome! ;)
As I'm starting this project by installing an heated bed on my own 3D printer (in order to make it more reliable and print pieces that worth your work), I'd like to ask you some precisions on the way you're attaching the high temp magnets under the bed:
Which kind of 3M stickers are you using on your side ? Some high temp specific ones ?
And are they single or double-sided ?
Thanks a lot for your help, and again, for what you are doing here ! ;)
The magnets came with thin magnetic M3 stickers. you need to cut the shape of a magnet, stick it under the bed and attach the HT magnet to it (it will hold strong). You can find in the BOM all the relevant links for the magnets and flexible sheet.
Damn ! You're right !
I just found a small piece of 3M sticker hidden at the bottom of the envelope. Didn't see it last time :/
Thanks also for this ! ;)
I've bought the CR-10 magnetic bed for arround $12 when the build surface becomes damaged i will order the spring steel and a new build surface using just the magnet plate from CR-10.
From what i saw on YouTube seems it can reach 100º without losing their magnetism. Isn't perfect but seems the best option for the price.
I've watched the Online 3D viewer several times, but still can't find the position of the 2x t-shape brackets.
The T brackets installed on the middle Z extrusions (rails fixed to). It should be installed
On the outside (since the z motors installed inside)
I will add it to the 3D Viewer too :)
Why did you cut the bottom enclosure into two pieces ? And does the mountingplate for the electronics be out of metal or is wood sufficient ?
Hi, 2 pieces = easy access to the bottom. it will be much more easy to clean, maintain and add wires if needed.
5mm Pallwood/wood/alum composite sheet would be sufficient for the rear electronics.
Thanks Ben. And they are just laying in the front and back profiles ?
They are laying on the front profile and using 2 2020 brackets at the back for stabilization.
maybe it will be more comparable to understand if I will make another 3d viewer for the walls/panel..
That would be awesome ;)
My aluminum profiles arrived slightly bend from Motedis.com Should I return it or use and ajust when building? It happened with someone? Very disappointed :-/
Please don't use extrusions that are not straight.
It will be very hard to assemble it with bent extrusions and the print quality will by horrible.
Ask them to replace it.
Hello! This printer you made is spectacular, you are awesome to make such a thing and share it with the world!
I was wondering if you need to have a lot of knowledge of programming and electronics. I know the basic stuf with arduino, but this seems really complicated!
Also i was wondering what the average costs are for building this printer.
Thanks in advance,
Hey Ben! What kind of brush are you using to clean the nozzel? Can not find it in the Link list.
Hi, thank you.
I just added it to the list: Link for the brush
Hi Ben, I found a small collision with the front_panel_left_plate and the bottom wall. It is at both bottom display mounting points. I could easily fix it after printing, but maybe you can update the .stl files.
Thank you very much for your help :)
If you already printed it, you can just shave 1.3mm~ of the screw corner. Thanks to you i fixed the part and uploaded to the project page (the file also available here). note: The 3D Viewer will take some time to be updated.
Great job Ben...I just ordered all the parts. Can you tell me if a Flexion extruder will work?
Hello Community, I have a problem.
First I printed and measured the jigs. Everything OK.
After that, I printed the version for the (original) V6 Hotend and it does not fit in the place where the top is put.
The opposite side (picture 5) fits well.
Then I looked at the step file and saw that the socket was designed exactly to measure.
Well, maybe I'm not so smart about 3d printing, but if I'm ok with outside dimensions, I have to construct inside dimensions always about + 0.4mm larger.
Likewise the holes for the M3 screws are constructed 3,1mm large and printed these are with me 2,7-2,8mm.
I hope you can make me a little smarter.
Hi, don't worry its an easy fix.
I designed it to lock the V6 precisely, although the edges has small chamfer sometimes a printer can build the edges a bit bigger then it needs to be. therefor you can shave a very small amount with a scalpel knife (attached pic)
I do not think that's the solution for me.
So far, I've just designed all interior dimensions of my constructions 0.4mm larger, so that fit inside dimensions.
But apparently there is also a way to adjust your printer so that the outer and inner dimensions fit exactly as designed.
For example, for the 16mm opening for the Hotend, you constructed exactly 16.0mm. I should have made it 16.4mm to make it fit.
So the error is very likely in my settings.
I want to buy the DuetWifi 32bit main board from Filastruder.
Do I still need the PT100 extension set for the DuetWifi for the excellent Quality V6 Hotend from your BOM?
Or can i save the 30$?
You don't need the daughter board for the Duet since its a 100K sensor (with a connector on it)
Thanks for the answer. Then I can continue building.
Ben I have a question. I am currently negotiating with a seller who would sell us the profile set (German or European)? Could you post the link to the set? As it looks like it will give two sets. Once just cut profiles and once with the angles.
Do you have any kind of problem with it? I ask that no problems arise
Would be glad about your answer.
I sent you a message :)
Yeah thank you. I already gave you an answer ;)
Question, I plan to build a version of this with 665mm height. I see that you have two lead screws, will be that enough for 665mm z height or would you suggest maybe try adding in a third one at the back (would just need to buy a longer extrusion for the bed) or is two lead screws enough because of the linear rails?
bed size will stay the same (300mm x 300mm). Thanks!
The Z spindles are responsible for the uniform raising and lowering of the bed.
Since nothing changes in the mass of the bed, only the length, you can neglect a third spindle, as the linear rails take care of the precise work of the guide.
Regardless of the height, how the printer is designed. A "tilting" of the bed is thereby prevented.
Thank you very much! One more question, can I replace the flex couplers with jaw/plum couplers instead?
If you look in Ben's description under "Belts & Threaded rods", you will see the item "2 x Aluminum Coupler 8x5x25mm or spider couplers". The "spider couplers" are the ones you are looking for.
Ah saw that but wasn't sure, thank you very much!
To those of you who are wondering how much the final build costs, and those of you looking for a place to see all the parts with links and prices, I made a spreadsheet for the shorter Z-axis model (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14EQiiLTxHRlf0cEGWrCR3PgezeK7bXxGO7OAnEwOgZ0/edit?usp=sharing). The price comes out to around $976.25 by today's prices (3/22/2019). Note that shipping & handling not included in my spreadsheet. I hope I made some your guys' lives a little bit easier
Would this be a possible candidate for a duel extruder? I've started to print my parts but I've always fancied a duel extruding machine for easier support removal and two colour prints.
Great design. So I'm looking at about $1000? Damn....
Yes. But look at the build design: D is worth much more than Ultimaker and gives better results. (in my view)
you have to see it that way. When you buy a finished printer. Then you still have to invest money to keep it going well. Now you have to decide how good you want it to be. Instead of Duet you can just use Arduino :D but even Ultimaker owners are converting to Duet
That's interesting, my perception is that most people are moving to Octoprint. I pledged for a printer called the Cobblebot on Kickstarter, and it came with a bunch of missing parts and no instructions. So it's still sitting in a box in my garage. It used linear rails and a lot of the same components. I might just turn it into this printer. Any plans for dual extruder capability?
Hi. As it looks like, the duet board can have two extruders. Look at the changelogs. There it is :
15/2/19: electronics schematics updated (dual extruder + buttons)
Gidday Ben, this is not to criticize but just to query. I think the direct drive system will not work with any of the front Fan grill or sensor set up?
I loaded a file here so you could clearly see what I mean https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3509086 am I missing something? Cheers Jace
I guess the easist option is to revert back to your original concept and then the question is which is the better set up?
There is a 14.5mm distance between the V6 and the BMG clone. in your picture, I can see that the V6 placed inside the BMG without the 14.5mm distance. I wrote a note and uploaded the step file.
The attached images will explain it better :)
I would appreciate if you could please delete the "remix" and use the comments, forum section for issues or question, or even send me a message..
It's unnecessary to open a specific thing/remix for an issue that can be answered pretty easily..
Just imagine if instead of 800 comments you will need to look in 800 remixes things.. right?
Why is it better to install v6 14,5mm from BMG rather than inside BMG? Isn't BMG designed to have v6 inside it?
The height of the carrier is taller than the height of a V6. If you try it your way, it won't reach the bed. It probably wouldn't even reach the bottom of the 2020 extrusion.
AliExpress is absolute garbage. Do everything you can to find your parts somewhere else.
I keep getting my orders in the mail, only to find out theyve only shipped about half of the correct amount.
For example: the MGN rails, the title and description says 2pc rail AND 2 pc carriage PER ORDER. So I order 3. So I should get 6 right? Nope. they send 3...now i have to open and dispute and wait another month...
This happened with my corner brackets too...that seller wanted proof of damaged packaging...well I had already destroyed the package to get it open, so they didnt accept my pictures of the 3 out of 14 brackets that I actually ordered, and wouldnt send me the other 11...
Show the Link?
I used the link provided in the BOM for just about everything on the list.
I think something went wrong. I just looked and saw that if you had bought one by one, you would have paid less. say they should give you the money back and you buy on 28.03. There is "everything" cheaper.
I'll give that a try. I see they're having a sale now
Anyone see this? Full frame kit with bolts and brackets for 310 x 310 x 665 build. Free shipping seems to ship from China, but I can't price it cheaper than this? Thoughts?
I ordered mine from here. After pricing out all the parts included it was similar price and a whole lot easier. Assembling as we speak and the quality is spot on.
The costs are too high.
It is to be regretted that some traders want to earn money quickly with the idea and work of Ben.
Funssor in Ben's list is competent and serious. Otherwise at the place of residence ask the craftsman.
Do the Hiwin carriers fit to the rails of the cheaper variants?
Two reasons why I used Hiwin bearing blocks for the X-axis and the Y-axis.
The cheap ones have errors that later determine the print quality.
Quality problem: (1) and (2).
I do not do advertising for hinwin, but they're the best.
On the Z-axis are not so big and fast movements, because I do not use Hiwin bearing blocks.
From 5 purchased (no Hiwin) linear blocks I was able to use 3 with good quality
Simple answer: YES as long its mgn12H
The printer designed for mgn12H carriage standard size.
Back then when I designed it, one original Hiwin rail could cost 80$ for one 400mm rail(!)
So, bought cheaper and good quality Chinese rails for only 17$ (Check the BOM links) each.
However please notice that one of the stores started to offer kit of genuine Hiwin rails for 38$ each (so if you have a budget, its a steal..)
I bought 6 mgn12h from the recommended vendor in hopes of getting 5 good ones. They have arrived (separately in 2 packs of 3)
Of the 6, 3 are really smooth with no cleaning. Two have become much smoother, though still not as smooth as the 3 after lots of cleaning and lubricating. One I'm not holding out much hope to get smooth and I can't visually see the flaw.
My plan is to use the good 3 nd goodish 2 and see what my print quality looks like before spending more on the Hiwins.
20A Power Supply is below 23.5A peak Duet 2 Wifi capacity - do we need more safety margin ?
Hi Ben and fellow enthusiasts.
My question arises after consulting the Duet Wifi 1.04 specs which indicates it could draw up to 23.5A with the installed fuses (1A for the fans, 7.5A shared for hotend heaters and stepper motors, and 15A for the heated bed). I also note the hardware is designed to be capable of drawing even more current (2.8A per stepper and 18A bed). Summing up the components of the BLV Cube build, I get to roughly 20.41A peak current demand (Hot end cartridge 30W/24V = 1.25A, CR-10 Heated bed 220W/24V = 9.16A, 5 x Stepper Motors 2A = =10A, fans negligible).
Forgive my naivety, but when I choose a PSU for my PC, I always buy more watts than my expected peak demand. I don't understand these things in depth, but I'm worried the suggested PSUs for the BLV cube don't offer enough "safety" margin, especially when using unbranded PSUs which may lack quality control or safety shut off features.
I feel that peak current situations could occur during pre-heat and at the same time if there was a bed/head movement binding issue that would cause the steppers to be sent loads of current. I know that's worst case scenario, but...
What do you reckon guys and girls ? I would welcome your words of wisdom.
TLDR; I will be using a Meanwell RSP-500-24 available for around £80 in the UK including (free) delivery.
I was chatting to my pal tonight who's a proper electronics engineer, clever guy with a PhD in lasers and optics. I asked what his view on cheap Chinese PSU was. He simply said "How much money are you going to save versus how much you'd loose if your house burned down." Brutal truth right there!
So I've been pouring over the various Meanwell models and reading the spec PDFs. I have come to the conclusion that the Meanwell RSP-500-24 is the model for me. It has auto-on off of cooling fan, 89% efficiency, all the safety features and compliance certifications, and nifty remote on/off capability for possible future (note this works differently than ATX, as it requires an external voltage to be applied to be turned OFF)
Full specs here: https://www.meanwell.co.uk/media/productPDF/RSP-500-spec_3.pdf
I understand your concerns. however, the rule is a bit different when using 24V instead of 12V (You will be surprised..).
This is why you will find at E3D store "only" 400w 24V 16.5A power supply (for example).
I have found a nice post that explains abit of it much better than I probably could.
Also, notice that I assumed that each one will probably pick his own parts/components so i mentioned it as a note.
Thanks Ben. I followed your link which led to me this: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_the_power_supply
Following their calculation guide, I arrive at 500W 20.9A which includes 20% overhead (pic attached). That's inline with your suggested PSUs.
I live in the UK with 240V AC, so I will be installing a 2A fuse on the main inlet to ensure I do not exceed PSU capacity (2*240=480W). Thank you again for this awesome project! So much great stuff to learn...
Thanks wannabegolfpro for sharing. I'd love to do this project but the electronic and the risk of putting fire to my home is slowing me down ^^ I live in France, where we have 220V, I'm wondering what changes should be made to the electronics ? Do you have a schematic for the addition of the fuse ?@Ben, hats off, this is an amazing project and the way you documented it is as impressive as your build!
Salut mon ami!
I will use an IEC320 C14 socket with fuse and rocker switch BEFORE the PSU. e.g. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223448394645
I agree whit you, but you can feed your bed using another psu + ssr, i guest its cheaper 2 x 24v 20A then 1x 24v 40A, in my case i will go for a custom AC bed with nichrome wire
Anyone have a ball park total cost? Just doing so quick calculations looks to be over 700$? Thanks
You can get the Frame in the USA with free shipping on ebay:
Way too much not including the fasteners and hardware. The little stuff adds up fast. I paid $166 delivered FedEx all included.
Hey that's pretty good. Might get it next time eBay has a 15 percent off if they dont' exclude the category again
Now that is a decent price point considering free shipping.
Hi! first of all thank you very much for your project, is amazing! :)
One question: what kind of filament can i use with this 3D printer?? i would like to use several materials, is it possible?
thank you in advance!
If you build it with the most basic parts and design, you can print materials up to about 230-240C. In practical use this means PETG and PLA and fancy blends of those (like wood fill, carbon fiber fill). The material is really dependent on the temp the hotend you use can get, the temp the heated bed can get, and if the printer is in an enclosure.
I have not completed mine (waiting on parts) but keep in mind there's probably currently only a Simplify3D profile for PLA. You'd need to use that and make some adjustments for other materials, or if you're like me and use a different slicer altogether, you'll need to make a profile from scratch.
How soon before we see an "evolution" version of this with 6060 extrusions? /s
another dump question, how to use the 90° Clamps? There is no room to put the bracket into position. Am I done something totally wrong?
Are you building it with 2020 instead of 2040?
Also, may I ask you a design question? Why you design all the parts with fillet instead of chamfer? It's much more difficult to get a high quality print for the fillet. Do you have a reason to use fillet? (except for the look of cause)
Hi sir, I am buying exactly the same size and length like the reference. I just confused of how to use the clamp to line up the 2020 one(for example line up the bed frame made of 2020s) But I am now suddently get that, the whole frame is made of most 2040 so it can use the 90 degree clamp(except the bed)
guys, could someone please explain what does the "2020_Jig.stl" and "2040_Jig.stl" use for? I know it's a jig but where should I put these jigs? Could you please attach a pic? Thanks
For the installation of the Y-linear rails, I dismantled the aluminum profile 2040 again. For the exact mounting of the rails I use the 2040 template. The 2020 template, for example for the X linear rail.
Thanks! Now I understand what those jigs use for! Great Job btw!
I just noticed you have used the Hiwin carriage, It's absolutely the best rails that a 3d printer can have!
Nice, I am impressed...
Only for the two Y-linear rails and the X-linear rail, where long distances are traveled at high speed.
The Z-linear rails have "normal" bearing blocks.
Otherwise this will exceed my budget.
Yes! Been waiting for this, after building a small HEVO and a modified big one, I'm looking for one with just 300mm bed and around 600mm height, this definitely fits the bill! I only have one part where I'm just a little confused, you mentioned in the instructions that we need to tap the holes for the corner holes? I'm not sure what you mean by that as based off your frame models I don't see any place needed to tap holes? Is it a must? If so can you possibly circle a pic showing what you mean? Thank you very much!\
EDIT: Searched through the comments and found it
So just to confirm, only 4 holes need to be tapped, and as for you saying M5 or M6, I have screws of both sizes, so it doesn't really matter? Thanks!
EDIT 2: What was the estimated cost for your build for a 300 x 300 x 365mm build?
Yeahhh. I had my old frame which one I started to build in the end of 2017. I think I don't need a huge heatbed like 500x500 or 400x400. It will be my first Printer so I keep it small with an Anycubic Ultrabase 220x220. The frame is just 400x400 but I will need some 20x40 profiles for build it similar.
First I have to build it somehow because I dont have any kind of 3d printer. Or maybe I will finde someone who'll give me his 3D Printer just for a month. After I print all the stuff I need I would give it back.
And the build begins. I had just finished Ben's Anet MGN but decided to go big or go home. The max build area will be 510mm w x 530mm L
x 460mm H. I will say this I really do not think this great design needs to be built with 2040. I think it can be built with 2020 using the corner bracing from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2322856 . (I used some 2040 but only because it is what I had) I did take idig3d's corner design and make some T-brackets for the Z axis pillers. I have to say Ben Levi is a great designer and has exceptional documentation on his builds. Can't wait to get this up and running but I'm taking my time with prints and will likely make a few mods. I do think it would be nice to have a front cross brace, this is the only area that I see some flexing.
Are you able to share what you have done as far as lengths so that I can also build a 500 by 500 build plaint but I will probly be doing it with the adjustments necessary to get the 665 build height. Also what are you going to use for the print bed with links? I think this is probly been the hardest part is finding a build plate that will fit this build at that size
I tried to use common cut dimensions This is why I use mostly 600mm and 550mm lengths. I only had to cut the Z axis 2040's and the cross pieces on the back and front. Right at the moment I'm using 400mm MGN12 rails but I will swap them out for longer ones they will be either 500 or 550 rails. As for the bed, I have a CR-10 style 310x310. However, I think I can take a piece of 3mm aluminum plate and attach it to the 310 hotbed with thermal paste in between to enlarge the print bed (probably 500x500). I think this approach will work fine for most filaments but maybe not ABS. I have no real interest in printing with ABS anyway. I can continue this post as I move along as long as Ben does not mind or I can move it to his cube group.
i am ordering mine custom cut so i am going to get exactly what i need. should i just use those dimensions and add 205mm to the vertical suppports to get that 500x500x665 build volume? and are you changing how your bed is mounted at all in order to accomplish this? or do you think i could just order a 500x500 custom cut sheet of aluminum to center as it is already? basically just adding a 200mm margin to the bed that i would've already ordered. and what have you done about the rails? do yo know who can order such long rails in USA?? ALSO where is this cube group. sorry for so many questions. i am excited but i like to do a lot of research
You can use Ben's calculator to determine your most of your pieces for the z axis, however the calculator does not figure any large size of the x and y axis. If Ben would be so kind as to send me an unprotected version of the calculator I could fix it to determine any size (I can make Excel do just about anything). You certainly can order a costume cut of aluminum. Where are you at in the US?
That would be awesome. And I am in Alaska so I'll be paying shipping either way. But if I can pay less that's ideal lol. And I was thinking the cr10 s5 bed would probably work to give us the 500 x 500 build x y volume. Just need to make sure the bolts match the 310 setup that's already good here. Hey Ben, do you know if you're able to share the CAD files for your bed mounting setups so I might be able to adjust them to cit the cr10 s5 build plate? If I can successfully do that. and you calculate out the new dimensions then you can possibly expand your printer to be the cheapest quality insane print volume printer out there lol. 500 x 500 x 665. Also I might look into that other guys idea for 2020 for the entire frame. If it really can be as stable it would definitely save me like $80 which can get my shipping covered to get all the peices to Alaska!
I am working on a new version of the calculator with some extras and it will be defiantly without a password :)
Cool Ben, if you need to shuffle Excel work my direction, by all means, I'm free and available to help. I would say I'm an expert in Excel.
HI, I just started working on it but it seems that many beds (400/500/600..) have different positions for the screw holes..
any idea standard screw hole position?
Just add 200mm to all your framing ; ) and get one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?spm=2114.search0184.108.40.206ef027c6jnTxJk&initiative_id=QRW_20190320143337&SearchText=500x500&productId=32982884526
Thank you, my friend :)
I have noticed that some crucial components that make it more rigid are missing/replaced in the frame.
The frame has been tested with software simulations and lab equipment just to make sure that the front will
be 250% percentage more stable then it required.
The most crucial part for making it more rigid is the vertical 2040 extrusions (front and rear) that are missing.
using 2040 is very important since the cross 2020 brace (at the front and rear) needs to be fixed with 4 x 90 degrees brackets each.
those 4 fixing points in the front/rear braces are very important, it will dramatically decrease the flexibility of the frame.
Please send me a message if you need any help with that :)
Ben, I completely understand what you are saying about the 2040 extrusions. However, your tests are using the aluminum 90 degree brackets which I think are inadequate for such a structure. The brackets I referenced in my previous post are far better for strength at the corners than the typical 90 degree brackets. By the way I have no connection at all to idig3d, just found them on Thingiverse. My thoughts are cost, if you could build this cube out of all 2020 the cost is significantly decreased. My opinion is an additional brace between the two tension knobs would do the trick, easy enough to remove if you needed to for access. Again, just my opinion, and like I said before your skills are awesome! The real test will be when I'm done and do some test prints. By the way, when I say flex I mean me holding one front corner and applying pressure with my other hand on the other front corner and it only moves 3 mm. In my eyes that is not much at all considering the force applied.