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Blv

BLV mgn Cube - 3d printer

by Blv Jan 29, 2019
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Hey Ben,

I am actually building your other machine. However, I had to upgrade to the Duet3D WIFI for other reasons. Now my motors are not as quiet as I was expecting. I started with the ANET A8. So now I am looking to get new steppers. After looking at the Duet3D site and your new build, I am wondering what are the pros / cons of using the Z stepper motors: 17HS19-2004S1 59Ncm 1.8deg 2A for all of the steppers. Any help would be appreciated. TIA. FYI, I am still on 12V.

I wished I had waited until this build was completed. This machine looks AWESOME!

Hey everyone,
I've started working on a Titan Aero mount. Unfortunately I won't be able to fully vet it until parts come in to build the BLV, but at least it's a start for those who may need it. Happy to get feedback on it and adjust as necessary.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3435133

BLV mgn Cube - Titan Aero Mount

Great !! i know that a lot of members have been waited for this :)
Mark it please as a remix of the Blv mgn Cube, this way it can be found very easy via the "remixes" buttons
and others that not reading the comments will see it too

I'm about 65% done with the build now and I love the idea of a BLVmgn cube FB group. I feel like there will be more ideas flowing around aswell as an active community dedicated to your design. Is this something that you would be willing to do? Maybe you could make one and share the link on the about section here for people and makers to follow and show support/mods/builds

Comments deleted.

Hi,

I was viewing all the stl files and I noticed that the file "FrontPanel-_Left_plate_for_Smartphone" / "FrontPanel-_Left_plate_for_PanelDue_5" and "FrontPanel-_Center_plate" are too big for my printer (200mmx200mm), I can try to print them in a very rare position to fit but if you can make them a bit smaller or dividing them, it would be great.

Best regards and good project!

(Sorry for my English)

I can try slicing it to two objects, but i need to think on fixing it to the frame too.

If you can, it would be great. Thank you very much Ben!

Hi Ben,
Very nice work! I have been following the project since the end of January and I have decided to build one for myself.
I am currently starting to get hold of as much as I can from local resellers. So it might take some additional time for me to get started.

The power supply I had laying around is specified for an output of 24v 14.6 A. Do you think it will work while building the printer? I figured it might work, but with reduced efficiency of the heaters/heated bed. I plan on getting one specified at 24V 20A in the future though, but I think it might take a while to get it.

Keep up the great work Ben!

Hi, Ben

I just started doing my order from Amazon / Aliexpress / and others Canadian online retailer for electronic parts.

I have all the part for your Anet8/AM8/Prusa Clone, in assembly presently, hope to post this one on the make tab of the Anet8/AM8.

For you link on the cleaning of the linear bearing in Russian,maybe change it to, one that reference you in it (Title of the clip), like this one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c53sa46C1qQ

BLV Cube is the most interesting on YouTube presently.

I will do my little Tip the Designer pretty soon. I know all the effort that (financially and intellectually require to this kind of design), My self being an EE in the private sector.

Kept the great work, you are by far the best presently good.

P.s.: Is it possible that you include all the great artwork in high res of your poster / model, I like to print it and hang then this motivated me to work on the different project, seeing the finish product.

Thank you fro the Cideo - i just added it.
I will try to export the images on high quality (i hope i have enough credit on Autodesk cloud)
Again ! thank you very much and good luck with your build ! :)

3 x Silicone sock - helps keep the nozzle temperature

That link goes to the wrong place BTW.

Also the links to the online 3d viewer don't work.

Hi, Thank you :)
I just fixed the Silicone sock links and checked the 3D viewer - its working great, you just need to wait and let it load the 3d model.

Hi, Thank you :)
I just fixed the Silicone sock links and checked the 3D viewer - its working great, you just need to wait and let it load the 3d model.

It says "oops page not found" when I click the 3d viewer links under explore the printer section.

It did that on me first time i tried it for some reason. Clicked it again and it opened up just fine

For the standard build Ben has listed, Misumi (black) is about $155 before shipping. Has anyone else been able to find the extrusions cheaper in the US? Thank you Ben for this amazing project!

ZYLtech quoted me $110 for all the extrusions to be cut and shipped. That was for aluminum color.

When will this machine be ready to actually make ?
greetz an interested mech eng

its ready :)

Who does not want to buy screws in the hardware store or on Aliexpress.

schraubenking.at
rosentaler-schrauben.de

Here the order designation and the DIN / ISO standard.

M3 x 14mm Linsenkopf Kreuzschlitz PH DIN7985
M3 x 18mm Linsenkopf Kreuzschlitz PH DIN7985
M3 x 22mm Linsenkopf Kreuzschlitz PH DIN7985
M3 x 25mm Linsenkopf Kreuzschlitz PH DIN7985
M3 x 25mm Linsenkopf Kreuzschlitz PH DIN7985
M2.5 x 12mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 10mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 12mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 16mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 18mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 25mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 30mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 35mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 40mm Flachkopfschraube DIN85 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 40mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 50mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M3 x 8mm Zylinderschraube Innensechskant DIN912 Edelstahl A2
M4 x 30mm Sechskantschaube DIN933 Vollgewinde Edelstahl A2
M4 x 40mm Flachkopfschraube DIN85 Edelstahl A2
M5 x 10mm Linsenflachkopfschraube ISO7380 Edelstahl A2
M5 x 16mm Linsenflachkopfschraube ISO7380 Edelstahl A2
M5 x 35mm Linsenflachkopfschraube ISO7380 Edelstahl A2

M3/M5 T-slot are cheaper at Aliexpress in large quantities.

Hello Blv. I need to tell you about a small mistake wich might have slipped in your file names. The Xcarriage-_V6_Locker_8mm_Sensor file's name is switched with the Xcarriage-_V6_Locker_12mm_Sensor file. This mistake lead to a printed objeect wich i cannot use, because of the wrong size hole. I hope you fix this tiny problem, for others not to waste expensive fillament like i did. Keep up the great work! Awesome project!

Thank you very much for letting me know about it - this is very important to me. I really appreciate that and apologies.
both parts renamed to the right name and its fixed now thanks to you.

Hi Ben. I think i must go into it. Now, if i want to go for the dual one, do i have to wait or can i start the build now (ordering parts, etc)?

Keep up the good work :)

Can you print a 20 X 20 sphere to check the accuracy/roundness?

Yes, i made it fresh right now (its only 2 layers test)
attached picture :)

Hello Ben, thanks for sharing this amazing printer with the community! By any chance are you considering trying an IDEX system for this printer? Obviously, it would require a redesign of the x and y axis, so I won't be surprised if the answer is a no. I just thought I'd ask because so far, I haven't seen any proper instructions for an IDEX system out there, and I'm a big fan of your designs. If you don't try that for this printer, would you consider incorporating it into one of your next builds if you do one? I really feel like this type of design could work nicely with an IDEX system. Keep up the great work!

Although it's complicated, designing an IDEX system can be done.
I would probably start by designing belts tunnel on X-axis with the same height and width in order to counteract twist force on each of the carriages. Then the frame must change and X-axis must flatten (carbon/metal - it's going to cost much more) and so on.
I sincerely apologize.. unfortunately, it will take a lot of time and I have to compensate my family for all the 400+ hours that I spent making this project. However, I can consider adding it in future projects :)

Thank you for the amazing design! I've been looking into building a coreXY printer for the last couple weeks ,and your design is almost exactly what i was wanting to do! I can't wait to get it built. I am curious about the filament you use for the green parts? Its a lovely shade of green.

Hi neil, i appreciate that :)
The filament I have used can be found in the BOM section (just search for "filament").
also, i have linked most of the needed parts in the BOM list section (item description).

Ah OK, must have missed them. Been reading through everything a couple times to really get to know your design before I start building. I'm curious why you chose to use the 623zz bearings for the belts and not smooth pulleys? Are the bearings just better? Thanks for your time.

most of the smooth pulleys have weak bearing inside, this is why I preferred to use the 623zz + washer between them.
It's giving me the best results.

Ah OK, do the printed parts have enough clearance for smooth pulleys without modification? I was gonna try using them, but not off aliexpress. But get some higher quality ones, more expensive but worth it imo.

I want to use HIWIN 15 mm guides (I have a large residue), but I can’t calculate the skeleton correctly. What amendment to use? ...(sorry for my bad english)

Unfortunately, the build isn't suitable with MGR15 rails. you can only use mgn12H-MR12 type.

Thank you very much for your reply. I will order mgn12H-MR12. Everything is ready. This is incredible !!! I think in a month I will provide my copy of the printer. All components cost me $ 543. For such money, I would never in my life buy such a high-quality printer !!! Thank you for your work and your project !!!

Hey, I'm really imprest that this only cost that money, can you pls send me all the links so I can buy it at the same price??
Or did you use the same links ther are in the description?? thx.

Many components, such as profiles, corners, bolts, ball screws, rollers, belts, etc., are made from us and can be bought at local stores. I ordered only electronic components and rails (except power supplies, wires, a heated bed). Many items are cheaper than delivery in China.

Most of the BOM has links from where I bought it. the extrusions were bought locally and it cost me
total about 70$, at Aliexpress store it's way more expensive.

Hi Ben,

I'm just testing out the IR probe module. A few questions...

  • Which trigger height is optimal? I have set to 2.5 mm.
  • Which type of probe is it?

Are you using the old configuration tool?

I used 1.5~2 mm height for the IR Probe module
and i didn't used the reprap configurator because i prefer doing it manually.
This link will help you

Thanks for the quick response.

I will try to configure it manually too.

While you are using duet board, why do you not consider to use the homing with stall detection?
Another question is, do you think is possible to add a precision piezo option in the hot end mount?

Because i found that its not very accurate as i needed it to be - after enabling the resume after power-fail i was
surprised to see that on resume process (after shutdown), "stall detection" made it print about 0.2mm far from the last position.
without the stall detection it preformed exactly is it should be.

Good to know that there is this problem ... I have to check it too
Anyway, really compliment for your design

Thank you bud :)

Has anyone tallied up the final cost on the BOM.

I'm thinking about getting into this but need to understand what the final cost for an average build of this (say with a 300x300 or 400x400 build volume) might be?

Its very tricky, because the cost can be change locally (especially with extrusions prices)

That's one long bowden tube. I'm designing a printer that also requires a longer one and I'm wondering if it's negatively effecting print quality. Are you getting good retractions and accurate extrusion?

with the BMG dual drive + Capricorn tube - its working wonderful and accurate.
however - today i added a direct drive mount (beta version) for the BMG dual drive clone extruder.

Hello,

I have a Da Vinci Mini, meaning I can only print PLA and only with their proprietary filament. I would like to build this printer. Do you think the PLA parts would hold up long enough for me to use the newly built printer to replace the PLA parts with PETG or ABS parts?

i would not recommend using PLA for parts next to the heated bed or parts the needs to be mechanically strong..

I've built all my printer parts with PLA and have never run into any issues. It's not recommended, but would definitely be fine until you can print parts using a higher tolerance media.

Thank you my friend :)

Small update:

  • today i uploaded an updated version of the electronics schematic - DONE !
  • Tomorrow i am planning to add the Direct drive option for BMG (dual gear) extruder (attached picture)
  • Bigger Air scrubber (120mm fan+activted carbon+HEPA filter)

Nice work! When do you upload the measurements for the walls? (I mean the cardboard or wood sheets)

OK, added the walls dimensions too :)

Hi, i hope to do it tomorrow.
I just uploaded the BMG direct drive extruder mount and BIG air scrubber :)

Gonna finish my HEVO then i will start on this one, just cant not build this one

Hi. What reason do you not recommend v - slot?

Yes, the mgn12 rail is 12mm width while v-slot's slot is 9.5mm which leaves
only 1.25mm for each side to be installed on - small room for adjustments..

Anyone in the UK or Europe looking to for B-type extrusion, I found this site http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acatalog/Aluminium_Profile_with_6mm_Slot.html

Seems reasonable for the price. They don't do it in black though, which is unfortunate

Thanks for sharing this site! I wish I'd had this link before I ordered my 2020 then I could have just had it all cut to size for me

Sorry Chris. I meant to post it the other day but wasn't quite sure whether it required the I or B-type extrusion. After reading the comments again, I read that someone had indeed said it was the B-Type. Shame they don't done them in black though. The only black extrusion I can find is either on Aliexpress or they all the V-slot rails

No worries :) I ordered my 2020 a while ago off Banggood, it's certainly good to keep the link for future reference that's for sure.. I might need more if I mess up a cut or something

Heya,

I really love your design! Awesome work!

I'd like to build this with a 500x500 build volume. Just to be sure, could you confirm the sizes of the required extrusions? I took your sizes from the calculator with the Anet 300mm bed and added 200mm to each part.

4x 2040 860mm
9x 2040 696mm
2x 2040 742mm
3x 2020 776mm
1x 2020 660mm
2x 2020 605mm
2x 2020 342mm

3x MGN12H 600mm
2x MGN12H 700mm

Thanks!

Hi, i can not yet recommend the 500x500 bed since i its need to be well balanced on the
two Z rails (i have not done any simulations for this bed size) if you are going to cnc the Z brackets/mounts - that can work..

Great work!!!
The hole of EU standard 2040 is 5mm,need to thread tapping M6?
There no M6 Screw in BOM.
Plan to print it with Anet BLV mgn12 mod:)

edit: Thanks for the pic :) I misunderstood (thought you are talking about the printed parts)

Thanks again, It depends on your extrusions manufacture, some of the extrusions has 4.8mm holes which means
you need to tap it with M5 and use M5 screw. Some with 5.2~mm hole and then you need to use M6 and a few
M6 screws.
Also i added a tapping kit (M3,M4,M5,M6) to "tools" sections and tap rminder on the "where to start?" >"Build" section

Hey,

Can you help us out by letting us know or updating the excel sheet for build volume of 600 x 600 x 600 or 500 x 500 x500.
Adding a dual extruder will make it almost complete and worth the time for this project.

My idea is to eventually make a hot swap for a laser diode as well if i build this project.

Hi, i can not yet recommend the 500x500 bed since i its need to be well balanced on the
two Z rails (i have not done any simulations for this bed size) if you are going to cnc the Z brackets/mounts - that can work..

Thank you so much for your reply.
I think I can do CNC Z brackets. Can you please let me know which brackets are you talking about?
Also, I was thinking instead of having just two liner rails for Z-axis, having four would give a great balance and easy option for expandability.

Or Support rods on either sides of the rails will be good too.

What about a Ball screw assembly kit? Please let me know what you think of these options?

https://www.banggood.com/500mm-Linear-Actuator-1605-Ball-Screw-Motion-Guide-Rail-with-57-Motor-for-CNC-Router-p-1275494.html?gmcCountry=US&currency=USD&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_union&utm_content=2zou&utm_campaign=ssc-us-en-all&gclid=CjwKCAiAqaTjBRAdEiwAOdx9xvDKc70suCG3hyS0FzW4Dng8meh12FqGzqSItjSegb5IYOk2OKjObBoCfacQAvD_BwE&cur_warehouse=CN

And I am still amazed at the amount of work you have done for this project. Its a lot of dedication.

Hey, I wonder if I can use EU standard 2040 aluminium profiles instead v-slot profiles. Standard profiles are cheaper and easier to find at local stores.

Hi, you need to use European standard extrusions, not a v-slot :)

Ok now I'm confused, all the extrusions listed look like V-Slot / T Slots. I was about to buy these parts, but European Standards are V-Slot?

So what are these extrusions? V-Slots or not?

Take a look here: Link
these are the standard extrusion that is cheaper and most common, i added a picture that shows the right extrusions type also.
Thank you bud :)

Ok, wow, thanks again for taking the time to explain. I would not have guessed there was a difference until you have a closer look at your pic.
Thanks I have my head round it now ; ) Well this bit anyway : ) Cheers Jace

Great!!
But your inventory link shows 2040 v-slot profiles.
A mistake?

Thanks, one of the link was v-slot and i fixed it.
i added an image that shows what extrusions to choose :)

Hello ! I went through your great design and started with collecting all the material and prints.
But 2 small questions:

  • how to fix the Y-Endstop switch ?
  • how to fix the belts to the x-carriage ?
    I was not able to find this info in any documentation or assembly instruction.
    Many thanks for Info !

You can see here how is the Y-endstop installed: Link
The Belts attached with 2 small ziptie - you need to insert the belt in to the hole and pull it back,the belts teeth should
be parallel. then lock it with 2 small size ziptie its very easy and will not shred your belts as with the screw type belt locks.
attached picture (not mine) that will give you example

Great ! Thats easy! Many Thanks, thought I missed something ;-)

Super cool design! I like it very much. Since I am currently looking for a new printer project and I like this very well, it will probably be the next. If some things have to be changed .. But in advance .. can you please update your computer so that you can also calculate larger volumes? Since I now have some printers for small volumes, I need one for the 500mm² class .. and since I think your design is very suitable for.

LG Peter

Thank you :)
Hi, i can not YET recommend the 500x500 bed since i its need to be well balanced on the
two Z rails (i have not done any simulations for this bed size).
if you are going to cnc the Z brackets/mounts - that can work..

Amazing, the level of detail here it is truely remarkable. Thanks for sharing such an awesome project. I'm certainly very interested in taking on such a project. Ive been reading through your documentation and ofcourse I'd like to have a crack at a 500 x 500 bed. I have one question where you have a calculator to help with height and I can see enlarging every thing will require some intuitive thought. I'm slowly working through what I'll need to accomplish this. The 2m belts you have listed I'm assuming will also need to be lengthened? Thankyou for your time. Cheers Jace

Hi, i can not yet recommend the 500x500 bed since i its need to be well balanced on the
two Z rails (i have not done any simulations for this bed size) if you are going to cnc the Z brackets/mounts - that can work..

Hi, great work!!!
Can you please update the calculator for a CR-10S4 Heated Bed (400x400)
Thank You!

I will add it probably this week.. still must do some software simulations for 400x400.

Hey Ben,
first of all..... INCREDIBLE WORK - AMAZING
At the moment, i print the parts on my HEVO for the BLV Cube.
I have a question about the 16mm Momentary switch with led.
Which voltage need the 3 switches? It is right, one for bed power, one for Duet power and the third for?

Thanks for your reply and best wishes

Hi, thank you:)

  1. 24V for switching on the LEDS with a relay (scheme will be posted soon)
  2. 24V for homing macro / or switching the fans with a relay
    3.110V/220V (according to the locale wall voltage) to power on the printer

Sick Build and great documentation! Did you print those 100 mm/s parts with acceleration and jerk Values because there is no ringing at all and overall perfect Quality? Or is the printer just so damn stable? Even on seemingly great printers like the Ultimaker S5 you get ringing from 30mm/s upwards.

I can confirm that the printer is very stable, after spending more then a month on fine tuning i was able to get those results.
it was hard but worth all the hard work. The complete config of the board available in the zip file :)

Dang it, I'm half way through a Hypercube build and then I found this.

Now I can't decide whether or not to ditch that build and start anew.

Awesome effort by BLV.
Incredible attention to detail.

If this project had an extruder that used a Zesty Nimble this would be a done deal for me. ( much rather have a direct drive )
I'd start printing the parts straight away !

Thank you, i appreciate that :)
Unfortunately i don't have the Zesty Nimble, i can try make a mount of it (just need to find an accurate 3d model) later on :)

Excellent and Elaborate work. Kudos to you and Thank you for taking your time to do this for the community.

I have a question: Spending all this time and money, quality components in the printer, I would as well have a bigger printer. So, if I wanted to make this 600X600X600 mm printable area, Is there anything that can be modified to achieve that?

I woul also be interested in what the new belt size ought to be for the option 1 if we do increase the build to this size.

I am interested in this as well, or 500 by 500. what ever larger sizes we can get to really maximize that 665 build height dimension.

Hi, First off great work!
Second I would like to know if you can update the calulator to accept the values for a CR-10S4 Heated Bed (400x400)
Thank You!

I too would like to have the Frame Size Calculator updated to include 400x400 bed size.

Nice work! any chance to fit an E3D Volcano in there ?

very impressive. Congratulations for this work and thank you for sharing

Hi Ben,

I'm working engineering for 35 years. Your design is super.
All Parts ready ordered.

Great project design and documentation!
However, I would highly recommend using genuine E3D parts for the V6 hotend and extruder.
Much better quality than the knockoffs, and you reward continued development of E3D's fully open source designs.

Hi, i appreciate your thoughts and think that open source developments is important.
However, not everybody can afford buying a genuine E3D V6 at costs of $94.09 before shipping.
To me it was getting the 6 times cheaper alternative - 16$ for a high quality clone or getting the E3D and
my wife would probably kick me out of the house :)

Actually, the genuine E3D V6 extruder kit is $68, and the V6 Lite is $32.
The Lite is what the cheap knockoffs are copying, with a Teflon guide to the heat break.
I don't think $16 is too much of a premium to get the more reliable original product.

Have you looked at the Titan Aero for a direct mounted extruder/hotend?
I really dislike Bowden tube systems.

I will be reading through this in detail soon, but has anyone put together a reasonable way to get all the parts needed here in the US? the extrusions and such especially. I'd like to build a 500 x 500 to your max height 665mm i believe. but it looks like shipping will cost an arm and a leg... maybe more to get it to all us 3d junkies in Alaska........

I'm pretty reliant on Misumi. They'll cut them to size for apparently no charge (1000mm costs the same /mm as 200mm). Shipping isn't too bad either, and I've used them for two printer's extrusion.

I went to their site, how do you find the aluminum extrusions on there that match the specs of the ones linked in the description for the Thing?

motedis.de and dold-mechtronik.de are offering 2 types of profiles, "I-Type slot 5" and "B-Type slot 6".
Which of those are recommended?

DON'T be tempted to buy slot 5. Use only slot 6. This is the European standard and is easier to source t nuts for this size of extrusion. I have some slot 5 that I purchased a while back and struggled to find a cheap source for t nuts. Also the printed parts will have been designed around the 6mm slot.

Really nice design! I do want to know more about your SSR setup I see in the image. I am currently upgrading my FT-5 to a 120v heated bed and was curious if you were using 2 SSR's for a fail safe. I did some reading and was hesitant on adding a 120v bed because of the chance of SSR failing closed. Thanks for any input / recommendations you can provide!

Hi Ben,

I've been working with the technology for 5 years, I'm impressed.

Great design.

A forum reader wanted to use a Lerdge-K board. I also installed it, also the display. Here is the customized STL file.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3421708

The display is fixed with:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01LX7O1LP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After an idea from darvin_de:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3318496

Front_Panel_-_Left_plate_for_Lerdge-K-Display
by MachBar
Lerdge Display Case

Do you possibly have a link for both the Board you used and the LCD screen? Possible from a US amazon? I can try to find it if not i just want to not buy the wrong model once i get to this part of the build.

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Awesome! thanks for sharing these!

Awesome design! I am about half way done with building the frame already and the cheapest and best route for anyone in the US to buy the extrusion is zyltech.com. They have all the extrusion needed and will cut custom lengths. Took 3 days for delivery and I bought my linear rails from them also (which are more expensive but worth the no hassle wait. I decided to run the Lerdge k board with touch screen rather than a duet setup.

what dimension did you build your frame to and what was the total cost of the frame when you were said and done? did you use the T-Nut aluminum extrusions i see on there?

The frame is finished except some of the printed parts which are currently on my other printers. I sourced all my parts from the US from Zyltech. I got the extrusion, (custom cut to size) leadscrews, linear rails, t nuts, belts, pulleys, bolts needed to build the frame for about $360 usd. I did however have a 15% off code so made it a little cheaper and It was at my house in 3 days. I build the frame for a 330x330x465 build area

Hi,

do you want to open the settings for the Lerdge-K-Board?

Are you talking about running marlin on the lerdge k?

Merlin is not running on the board. I meant the Core XY settings in the frontend or in the web frontend.

http://bbs.lerdge.com/configuration_tool/

I know its not running it as it has it own custom firmware but the lerdge board has been hacked to run marlin and the files to do o are available. I thought that's was what you meant. I will check out the link you sent and try it out. Thanks!

Hi! Its Amazing. When You plan to extend it with dual extruders?

Soon as i will get the second BMG clone extruder. I am planning to use a Y-splitter..

It's your choice) But Y-splitter can't work with different type of materials and mainly used for color printing. Using it, You reduse possibility for printing supports with different material. Maybe You look at Chimera?

Creating chimera mount will be added to the "to do" list :)

Hi! Amazing project, I really like it but I have few questions. First, maybe I'm missing something but where are Z-axis endstops or how does homing work? Second, it's rather a request than question, please consider designing full enclosure. I also wonder if it'll be possible to use heatbed surface like Ultrabase from Anycubic with IR sensor. Many people prefer this type of surface instead of PEI.
Thanks for your effort, I can't wait for next updates.

Hi, it has an IR mini sensor and the Auto mexh bed leveling feature is active :)
as far as i know the ultrabase doesn't work as good as PEI sheet with IR mini sensor.
also i will probably add at the future an enclosure option :)

Hi! You could have just one Left front panel. Just for LCD. If you don't use one just add a blend for phone inside and that's it ;-)
P.S. My old BLV is now printing new BLV Cube parts.
Great piece of 3D printer.

Thanks Ben Levi

Can I ask what the neopixel rings do?

The Neopixel rings are for status indications (bed and hotend temps,homing status..).
I am using an arduino nano connected to the PanelDue port on the DuetWifi board with logic level converter. With paneldue lcd its act as a sniffer and without paneldue it sends M408 command and receive Json string).
Right now the working status are: while its not homed - all flashing red with animation. 2 side rings showing temp level while starting to print and Rainbow animation while printing. Fan rpm on animation on change and so on..
Unfortenaly i got many requests so i had to delay the work on this part for later..

Thanks, I'm excited to get started on this. The print quality looks amazing! What layer height where the sample images printed at?

some 0.2 and some 0.15

How well does the HEPA filter work? Are the fans powerful enough to push the air through the filter vs just escaping out the printer?

Hi, i just finished the bigger version (120mm fan) and it works fantastic !!
Only left to make an assembly videos of the bigger version and upload the STL :)
(attached picture of it)

Inside enclosure they work well (smoke test) but in open environment much less.
This is why i created a bigger version that will be released very soon.

Comments deleted.

This is truly a beautiful looking printer you've created. Looking at build a CoreXY printer in the future and this has just stole my heart. Thank you for sharing your excellent design. Now i just need to convince the misses i need another printer. Wish me luck lol

Thank you and good luck :)

i understand that you adjust the bed with the knobs, but how to you get it perfectly straight? will you have to adjust -> print -> adjust -> print etc? or is there a bed leveling feature?

and if i want to build a version that have 40x60 buildvolume, how do you calculate the lenght of the extrusions in the width and depth? (tried your calculator, but this is only for height?)

plan on building this printer, already made room for it on my desk:)

Very simple:
You need to adjust the bed to be leveled once - then every print its will auto measure the bed and will use Mesh auto leveling feature.
For bigger X you should increase the length of the 496mm extrusion and the 576mm extrusions :)

You probably don't need to auto measure every print. Just when needed … maybe once a month or so.

Since i am using a removable spring steel sheet i prefer to use auto leveling each time.
The build plate changes a bit after each print (taking it off the bed and returning the sheet back)

awesome:)

if my math is correct, with a bed with 400mm buildvolume (XY), the extrusion lengts will be 400mm+186mm and 400mm+276mm?

496-300(original bed)=186
576-300(original bed)=276

186+400(new bed)=586mm
276+400(new bed)=676mm

for the height i can use your calculator

does this sound look correct?

I think you just need to add to the size of the original the difference in the size of the bed you want to install.
496 + 100 ( 400-300) = 596
576+100 = 676
I am counting on 500x500, just add 200 mm. I hope right
496+200.....
I also hope that the calculator will add the calculation of popular beds of more than 300 mm

496-300(original bed)=196

This is absolutely phenomenal!! The amount of detail and care you put into the instructions alone is simply amazing! Currently I have a CoreXY with only 2020 extrusions that I would love to transform to a finished product like this. At any point did you build this with 2020? I'm curious if I will get a similar result?

Thank you again for sharing this project.

What would the implications be if one wanted to base this build off of 12v instead of 24? My existing extruder and power supply are 12v - I plan on running my heated bed directly to a SSR into the power outlet.

For the specific setup (DuetWifi+steppers) that i used in the BOM I would recommend using 24V. However you can always Build it with your own preferred electronics :)

I think You are Wrong. I thought 24 is the recommended setup. Or is it 12v for Electronic and 24 for heted bed? But this Would make no sense as the duet wifi can handle 24v. I Was curious Just because You have two Power Supplies at the Back.

Thank you, I meant 24V (stupid keyboard's auto correction added the "nt" to the "would")
In the BOM i specifically wrote that the PSU is 24V (with a link).
The other 12V PSU that i installed (in the pics) is for my arduino controlled IKEA drybox.. but this is another project :)

If I purchased the 24v PSU, the only other replacements I'd need to use my existing 12v parts would be the extruder hot end, ya? motors, thermistors, etc. would all derive power from the Duet. I've got a silicone 1000w 120v bed heater that wouldn't be affected by the PSU if I'm wiring it straight into the SSR. Is that all correct?

Just in case anybody needs cheap aluminum extrusions in the US, here is a link I found useful.
https://www.reddit.com/r/vandwellers/comments/76w54c/cheap_tslot_aluminum_extrusion_6_places_to_buy_it/

Unfortunately it's still cheaper to go through Aliexpress vs all of those after you factor in shipping. Disclosure, I didn't receive a quote from Misumi, but priced out the other ones.

True, it's really only cheaper if you can find a local branch of Grainger or Fastenal. But seeing as Fastenal has 1900 US branches most people (living near big cities) shouldn't find it too hard to find one close by. I don't know how many branches Grainger has but there are quite a few near me and I live in the midwest.

Thank you ! That is very helpful :)

Going to build me one. But the linear rails is SA is about $90 each

the TPFE tube says 1.9 or 2.0mm od but it must be id

Hi Andries:)

  1. Check the BOM links, you will find linear rails 400mm for 16.5$ each from aliexpress
    (After buying from couple of stores on aliexpress the one in that i linked at the BOM had the best rails that i have tested).
  2. yep a typo that i fixed. the link leads to the correct item..

Awesome work. Looks amazing! I am definitely building one. I have a PanelDue for this project but it is a 4.3" version. Could you make the FrontPanel work for the 4.3" as well?

Did anyone calculate the total costs incl. shipping to europe (germany)? I am interested in a financial range to build this printer (465mm or 565mm height).

if you need aluminum extrusions in Germany, its worth to check out also the pricing @ motedis.com . The Shiping price will be higher but you could get a lot of aluminum for your money!
Total Frame would be ~75€ incl. shipping in Germany. (without any screws or connectors...)

600-700€ depends on how much you buy China. I‘m from Germany too so buy your frame and mgn at shop.bohrers.de and the screws at schraubenking.at

thx for the shop link. appreciate it very much.

For me The total was around 450$ (including the mgn rails).
I think you should buy the aluminium extrusions locally, it will be much more cheaper.
All the frame cost me around 70$ from a local store. The aliexpress store charge too much for shipping..

Hi, Ben.
It is amazing project. Congratulations!

I found one bug in the front panel.

FrontPanel-_Right_plate - 3mm
FrontPanel-_Center_plate - 3mm
FrontPanel-_Left_plate_for_PanelDue_5 - 3mm (wall thickness)

FrontPanel-_Left_plate_for_Smartphone - 4mm (wall thinckness)

Thank you for your work.

Petr

Thank you Petr!
It seems that i mistakenly uploaded an older version of the part - its fixed now thanks to you :)
If you have printed it already - Just shave 1mm slot for the center panel secure clip (very easy fix).

Hello! What type of motherboard do you use? Does it have relevant information or sales links?

I am using the best board that a 3D Printer can have: "DuetWifi" board, and this is why:

  • Its a very fast board running with a powerful 32 Bit Processor.
  • it has super quiet TMC2660 stepper drivers with finer 256 microstepping
  • supports Dual extruders – 3 heater & thermistor. 3 PWM controllable and 2 always-on fans.
  • Built in WIfi server - you no longer need Octoprint since it has dedicated Wifi module with a separated processor.
  • Full web interface - it has the best control interface that you could have - macros/scripts, console, axis jogs, upload gcodes files, temps controls, fan controls, standby.. and many many many more features.
  • Control it with your phone/tablet or laptop/pc screen without the need of expensive LCD screen
  • No need to flash the FW for small changes - just edit the config as a text file within the web server and "save" and thats it.. no more flashing ! the config fine is very easy to understand much more easier then Marlin FW.
  • High Power rating stepper driver - up to 2.4A motor current !
  • High rating Heated bed traces - no need for SSR/mosfet.
  • Also its the most documented board that exists: https://duet3d.dozuki.com
  • It has the best support that you can get at the board forum: https://forum.duet3d.com

You can find direct links from where to buy it under BOM section > "Main Electronics"

OMG, just wow. Amazing work. Definitely going to build one and keep you posted on the progress. Love it. Cheers.

Comments deleted.

Wow!!!!!
Will there be also a hotend for Precision Piezo Orion ?

It could probably be done..
if you have some experience with a CAD software you can use the STEP file that i included inside the project zip file and design your own mount :)

Sorry, no experience in CAD. But definately a printer i will build!
Will start to print the first parts next week :-)

Its very easy (user friendly yet powerful), don't give up before you tried..
If you are a student you can install it Fusion360 for free and you can find many guides on YouTube that explains how to use it.

Hey Ben,
Awsome design however in the BOM there are two T Shape Bracket 60x60
but i havn't been able to find them on any of the instructions, where are you supposed to place them?
Also how important are the stepper motors I have 5 34Ncm, 1.8 step angle, stepper motors
Will they sufficeice? or should i invest in better stepper motors?

Hi, the T shape bracket was meant to be installed on the 442mm extrusion that the Z mgn rail fixed to (2 sides).
It was just added lately i will add it to the 3d viewer model.
Your motor theoretically work just fine but the suggested motors will work even better :)

Hi Ben! I first wanted to say congratulations and thank you for all the hard work you have put into this project. You have really thought things out and used quality professional parts. I want to build this project, but not yet. I'm still a newbie to 3D printing, and still learning my Anycubic i3 Mega-S. I do have 3 questions about the build, and I hope you have time to answer them. First, you gave a list of options to use different materials for your enclosure, but how did you attach them to the frame? I might want to use acrylic panels on mine, and I assume the attachment would be the same. Second, will you offer at a later date updated parts files for an optional 2nd hotend and extruder? Reading the specs on the mainboard it is mentioned that board would support up to 7 extruders. Lastly, are the filament reels stored inside the enclosure? It looks like that is the case, but I wanted to check. Thanks again for all your hard work, and I will watch for updates!

Hi tony, thank you and i appreciate that :)
as for your questions:

  1. Very easy, i used cheap composite board (5$ for meter) and fixed them to the frame with M5x10 screw and a T-nut. 3 on each side.
    first i wrapped the board with a cheap Carbon fiber vinyl then i drilled holes at the right positions and fixed it with the screw. each board took about 15 min to complete.
  2. Absolutely ! as a matter of fact i have ordered another BMG extruder and planned to used the free driver that was left for a second extruder. i am planing to use it with a Y-Splitter. If you want more - you can use The Duex5 expansion board for that.
  3. The filament is not storage inside the enclosure (although you could probably do that). Personally i am using a new Prototype of IKEA box that can store up to 8 spools + DIY arduino controlled Air dehydrator system (Its working great!)

Hi,Ben
great job, your project is very well managed!
it's professional work
Congratulations.
I did not find the file 'BLV mgn Cube-Frame calculator.xlsx'
Can you make it available?
A big thank you in advance

Hi and thank very much, its a pleasure to share it with this awesome community.
The file is available inside the ZIP file of the project, i just checked it.

Hi Ben,
I have finished the build of your famous BLVmode for the ANET not more than 10 days ago. This one is printing like a charme already compared to my Tevo Tornado. So, you can be sure I will build your CoreXY printer as well.
Thanks a lot for sharing all your hard work developing these printers. Keep going :-)
Best regards,
René

Thank you very much!
For me it's a great pleasure to share..

Hi! It's beautiful 3D printer. I'll do it necessarily! I have only one question... Can you public 3D PDF file of assembling?

Great job!!!!

Thanks :)
I made the 3d animations in order to make it more easy.
you can find inside the zip file all the needed PDF files.

Hey Ben,
This is spectacular. I'm half way through building a CR-10 based printer but I'm strongly considering starting from scratch and going with this design instead. Do you have any plans to design a Titan Aero mount? I'd be happy to help if I can.

Maybe later on, first i need to complete high priority tasks (such as completing the BOM, adjusting to other beds, BMG direct drive..)
I will update you :)

Hey Blv! A few questions for you:
1) Are you going to support a mount for a zesty nimble and or direct drive? I just have a preference to using those instead of a bowden system.

2) Is there anyway to lock in the X/Y tension system so that the motion/vibration don't loosen the know/screw? I see the bumps on the know and inset hole but I don't see how those bumps will print with the recommended orientation?

3) You've used chamfered edges which are much easier to print than the filleted edges you used on the X/Y belt mounts is there a plan to change filleted edges to chamfered for ease of printing? I would love to do a remix if you share the unfilleted parts in a fusion file or .step files.

Awesome design, it looks like you used V-slot or similar to OpenBuilds so I will do some test prints to confirm if it works with this brand of aluminum extrusion. Keep up the awesome work!

  1. I don't know yet since i need to finish few more things. however i think it can be done..
  2. Yes, before i published it i had more then 6 different tensions knobs that was tested -This one was the best.
    it is advised to print the tensioner block with support.
  3. I always tried to avoid designing items with sharp corners - you can use the Step file that can be found inside the zip file and remix it.
    the method to do it is by completing the "missing" part and then add the chamfer.
  4. i have used a regular European extrusions (not a V-slot) since the V-slot can not provide enough base for fixing the mgn rails.

and Big thank you :)

Wow!
This looks amazing! I'll probably build a 500x500 variant once I get really sick of my CR-10s.
Thanks for making this!
How much were all the parts (excluding shipping).

You could probably do that (just calculate the right extrusion size).
All the part cost me around 450$

wow! really beautiful project congratulations! when will it be possible to start building it? what is the maximum speed that can reach to get good results? is it possible to mount two or more extenders? will you provide instructions to mount more extenders? thank you very much and congratulations again

Although i was able to print easily at 150 mm/s with higher acceleration values - In this Project i was looking for more precision and print quality. So i am printing usually at 60 > 80 > 100 mm/s..

Ok, thank you!
when will it be possible to start building it?
is it possible to mount two or more extenders? will you provide instructions to mount more extenders? thank you very much

Hi! Really cool design. This is what i am searching for.
The only thing i miss, is something like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3365456
And a full enclosure

Cable-Driven Tool Changer System

Hello! Very cool design and technical solution!
Are you planning a bom for a profile when building a printer with a printing area of ​​500x500 mm?

This design is modular - you can easily make it suitable for 500x500
Just extend all the wide extrusions according to the desired size.
notice that you may need bigger mgn rails, belts and so on..

wow, thank you for your hard work and sharing this!

Thanks my friend !
True, it was hard.. but it paid off, Because it was my way of returning to this wonderful community :)

Hey, Ben. This is very interesting, great work!

About the dual Z lead screws, or more specifically dual Z servos... do you find that the bed goes out of level if you push down on one side too much when removing printed parts? I have that issue on my dual Z servo printer and it's a real pain in the proverbial.

I'm considering having just one servo driving both lead screws via a GT2 belt so that the lead screws are always in sync. The dual lead screw/single servo arrangement is what TEVO used on their Black Widow a couple of years back and it seemed to work quite well. They seemed to make this work with a single NEMA 17, but I'd use a NEMA 23 if extra torque was required.

See Thomas Sanladerer's Black Widow live build stream for reference, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-g5lPPFhcg - warning, it's a 9 hour video!

they're stepper motors, not servos.

In this design you have 3 main factors: Bed springs, MGN rigidity and Magnetic build plate.

  1. When using the magnetic build plate (Spring steel sheet + High temp magnet) you will no longer have to "fight" with your prints.
  2. The mgn rails are so rigid that you would not believe how stable it is..
  3. Putting pressure on the bed the spring will collapse - avoiding bending the bed.
    and about the sync Z - the DuetWifi board along with this awesome stepper motors works flawlessly. i mean that my last manual sync was about 2 weeks ago and it was just as part of maintenance procedure. you got another option: Using a true leveling feature that Reprap FW can provide. this design leaves you a free driver. you can connect it to the other Z stepper motor and use the True leveling bed feature..

Hi,
I have a question : why not use a 16t pulley for the belt tensioners since it's on the toothed side of the belt ?
Anyway I was looking for a design like this (corexy with rails) for a long time now and I love this one ! I'm planning to build one :)
Greak work thank you !

Thank you bud :)
The reason is very simple: The belt puts pressure on the belt in one direction - the 16T idler will fail pretty quick (first you will hear squeaking sounds and then it will become lose). This is why i chose to use flanged 623zz ball bearing for the tensioner.

True that the bearings on toothed idlers are very small...
Thanks, I understand now.

I think you might have a typo in the BOM you have the following:

2 x 2040 aluminum extrusion 422mm (Z axis)

It should be 442mm, right?

Correct, and thank you for letting me know - it's now fixed.
I mentioned 442mm all over except the unfinished BOM..
I am working hard to finish the BOM.. hope to finish it tomorrow.

This is one sexy looking printer!

planning to build my second printer, and this caught my eye. i hva e couple of questions, hope that is ok :)
(take in mind, i have NO experience with corexy printers, so i apologize if my questions come of as dumb :) )

-on the Z axis (build plate lift) there is one lead screw on each side, will this design be prone to tilt in the build plate and/or bendt lead screws?

-since the printer is modular, is it possible to test out different extruder/hotends? or is it designed only for one extruder?

-what is roughly the build cost for this printer?

awesome work, impressive and detailed description! keep up the good work, stuff like this motivates "newbs" like me to dive further into this hobby :)

  1. I wrote a similar answer a few comment up (Search for "_AlwaysLearning" user).
  2. absolutely.. i am planing to add more hotends mounts and the CAD file are available so anyone could design its own parts..
  3. it costs me around 450$ (without the 5" panelDue.. you are not really need it. you can use your smartphone/tablet/laptop/pc screen)

Very interesting. I just calculated the approximate cost of the parts from BOM, and get about 960$ (with 5" panel Due but with Duet WiFi clone). What did I do wrong?

Ben made an awesome project. He shared the files to the community. AliExpress took the planning and sells Kit's frame, take advantage of sharing for personal gain.
US $91.49 | Funssor BLV mgn Cube Frame kit mgn linear rails & Hardware Kit For DIY
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bmJZsJy9

its $106 shipping for that kit also tho. Much cheaper to buy the parts locally or individually.
For those in the USA ZYLtech.com will cut all the pieces for about $120 and free shipping.

for those in Europe, you can order the frame parts from www.motedis.com they have excellent quality and affordable prices.

Another good option for those in Europe is https://dold-mechatronik.de

Would be ok, but they take insane 115€ for shipping to Austria ......

Awesome work BLV!
I am in early stage of building linear guided 3d printer also!
But this is way better, so I want to on board your project.

One thing I want to suggest, How about dual guide for each X axis?
Current version has one rail on X axis, could makes movement for Y axis.
Adding linear guide on bottom side, looks have enough room.

I guess for 465 build height, the Z-pillars just have to be 660mm long with 500mm MGN12 rails? And 542mm support beams for the rails?

Hi i added an excel fiel that can help you calculate the needed extrusion sizes :)
Hope it will help, if you find any error please notify me.

Thanks for your help and all the work you do on this project. I'm looking forward to building one :)

Comments deleted.

I sent you a message. guess it depends on shipping rates.
This days i am working on the BOK, hope to finish it very soon

Comments deleted.

Wait...are you using linear rails for Z?!

Yes, 2 linear rails for the Z axis (you can see it in the Z axis and bed assembly video).

This...is...pure Madness! I like! ;)

I'm in the middle of building up the awesome BLV MGN12 A8 mod. And right now I find this even more amazing thing. What shall I say? Shit or Super? :-)
Serious: Ben Levi, your designs are absolute fantastic.

One short question: You mentioned to optionally include the PanelDue 5, not the "I" type. So what's wrong with the 5i or even the 7i?

Thank you very much my friend !
nothing wrong with the 5i", its just that the panel was design to PanelDue 5" (which i purchased about a month before the 5i was out).
I tried to find a 3d model of the 5i" in order to make it suitable for the new model but couldn't find..
anyway, to my opinion the screen is totally unnecessary since its contain less data the web interface that can be shown on your phone/tablet.

Design looks great and going by the test prints, works well too. Your prints dont seem to suffer from using ball bearings for the idlers instead of proper grooved idlers... could they be even better with the proper ones? :)

To have the motion design for 3030 would be great so i could update my hypercube with your motion system design! I especially like that you can tension the belts so easily! Great!

That is a great idea !
If you will do that i will appreciate if you could please share it with us as a "remix" and "i made one"

man, see... i built the haribo3030 and saw 0 results that were any faster/better than the original prusa mk2s.. i have never built a core-XY design. but you truly make me want to try a custom design again. I cannot wait until your process is finsihed. please let a community build on discord or mattermost. That way we can all help one another out like we did with the haribo3030.

Hi. Really great looking 3D cube. Why are you still using classic switches instead of optical ones? I'm going to build one soon. Just waiting for final boom for alu profiles want to build 465mm print height.
Great work ;-)

Hi, thanks :)

  1. in the past i fixed a lot of vacuum robots and found that optical switches are less reliable then classic micro switch.
  2. i uploaded the an excel file that can help you calculate the desire extrusion BOM :)

Anyway to get you to upload a step file for only the parts that mount to the MGN carriages? Solidworks doesn't seem to like the large step file lol.

thank you

Try to open the file with Fusion360 - it will work without any problem.

Hey Blv, I cant seem to find the jig for extrusion mounting?

Thank you for the beautiful design, working on it now.

Hi, thank you.
I re-uploaded all the Jigs :)

Are you thinking about adding the Möbius2 Extruder?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Hi, to my opinion the BMG extruder is way better.
However, as long it has 2 holes for fixing it on extrusion - you csn use it.
As i said, its a modular design :)

Got another two questions :D

  1. wil there be an option without Bl-Touch, 8/12mm Sensor or the IR sensor? So just with an normal endstop?
  2. i want to use an 6mm Aluminium plate with silikonheater as heatbed. So in need to make the heatbed Mount a Bit wider. Like the 142mm 2020 Profile needs to be 190/200mm. Would that be possible?
  1. I will add it to the "To do list".
  2. for custom bed it is advise to be no more then 175mm (but you can try..)

Verry nice design!! Is it possible to get fusion 360 model?
I'm trying to learn fuison 360 and was searching for a nice design for my next project.
Only thing i like to do is make it bigger. Need to print bigger things :D

You can do that with the Step file included in the zip file.
Just upload the Step file to your account and open it (attached screenshot).

wow, just wow.
Amazing job, keep it up.

Thanks :)

This is awesome, nice job!
Keep it up, I really like your designs. (ordered all the parts for mgn AM8 6 days ago)
Is there much improvement between this and mgn AM8 you posted (if it's kept in enclosure)?

Comments deleted.

ok now i have to finish my HEVO printer, sell it and get this :D

:) nice...

Excellent design to respect professional work labor......

Thanks bud :)

this is amazing. Just 2 thoughts: Would it be possible to add Print settings in the File name like blabla25-30petg.stl. otherwise you always have to watch inside the Build pictures. For aligning the mgn rails, there is an tool: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2152669 maybe you can Test it and Remix it. this is going to be my first 100 percent self build. hope i get every part right. maybe i need help from an chinese printing service, my printer is not that good. Anyone got some suggestions?

thanx for this

Anycubic Linear Delta Rail Alignment Jig
by Zach_H

Thank you
That is a good idea :)
Also i think that i will add the Jig from my previous BLV mod project

TNX !

I cant find it in the BOM so how many M3/M5 T-nuts do i need?

Really nice work, i already ordert a few parts....

Hi, The BOM can be found in the "thing" description. Hit "Ctrl+F" and enter: "BOM".
You will find all the M3 and M5 screw that you need :)
edit: t-nuts added.

Yeah I already found how many screws I need, but no informations about T-Nuts, just your links to bags of 50pcs but this would be a way to less.

You are absolutely right, i just added the T-nuts count.
Thank you mate !
Just working on the BOM..

Possible typo in the BOM. I'm all for a sturdy assembly, but did you really mean 305 ?!

305 x M5 T-nuts
305 x M5x10mm 10.9 Button Cap screws for 2020\2040

Wow this looks amazing! I want to start to order things for this.
Do you have details on dimensions on different parts in BOM for choosing 465mm height?

Thank you bud :)
Yes i will add it this week including the E3D high temp beds.

Wow!
Amazing build!

I am halfway through making a 500x500 mm bed HEVO cube, but I think I might shift gears and try and adapt your ideas into it!
Thank you for sharing! Amazing build!

Hi nice and thank you :)
I am glad it was helpful

The quality and attention to detail and proper engineering are awe inspiring! Resultant prints look spectacular. Thanks for sharing. I shall dream of building this masterpiece.

thank you
much appreciation :)

Amazing work Ben, I can't even fathom how much time must have gone into this!

Thank you my friend
it did took quite a lot of time :)

Awesome project Ben!
I would love to see more bed options (like generic MK12 beds or E3D's high temp beds) as I find the CR10 and Anet beds almost dangerous due to their connector.
Otherwise, I love the detailed documentation!

Hi, thank you :)
it is definitely possible adapt the bed carriage for E3D beds.
i will add it to the "To Do" list :)

My Wallet: "Am I a joke to you?"
Damn this looks so awesome !
Any further considerations about a full-enclosure ?

Thank you :)
I already installed and tested a magnetic front panel with a transparent windows. I guess that
after i will complete unfinished parts in this project i plan to add a full enclosure and bigger Air scrubbers

Thank you :)
I already installed and tested a magnetic front panel with a transparent windows. I guess that
after i will complete unfinished parts in this project i plan to add a full enclosure and bigger Air scrubbers

I am also thinking about building my first 3D custom printer - following your great great project. I want to print more ABS stuff and so i would also be very interested in a full-enclosure.
Do you think that you will for sure do it and share your solution with us? Will it be a addon, so that i can perhaps already start with the printer and add the enclosure later?

a have done your AM8 conversion, now i have a small cube core xy and you come now with this ....i like man a lot and i m following this project 100%....nice work

Thank you :)

What kind of brush are you proposing for the nozzle cleaner - I currently use a steel wire shoe brush but I get a lot of wear on my nozzles from it.
Amazing project btw, thanks for sharing!

Hi, i am using a Brass brush for nuzzle cleaner but i intend to add a silicone wiper option too.

Hey,

Really nice design, congrats!!!...The only ting is not on my list of preference are the many fans. Why haven't you considered using the aluminium frame as passive heat-sink where is possible?

Otherwise it looks and works awesome!! Really appreciate you share your work with the rest of the world!

Hey,
I like the design (love your previous prusa style BLV mod - I'm still using it to this day) but have one question/remark;
Have you considered integrating E3Ds 'tool changing' standard?
Without it it's just another boxy-corexy-hbot 3d printer like dozens on the market.

Thank you :)
To be honest I do think that Tool changing is awesome, but personally i don't think it worth the trouble involved.
i am planing to use the free driver that was left on the DuetWifi board with a a Y-adapter (splitter) to get a dual extrusion.
But, since i released the CAD file if anyone wants to make it suitable for Tool changing - that will be wonderful !

Wow !
I Love building 3DPrinters, this BLV is my next project !

It looks amazing. And i've already a Duet Wifi and a 5" pannel to use ! :D

Great job dude !

Thank you my friend !

I'm currently doing a bom on a excel sheet.

How do you connect and control the NeoPixels ?

Tremendous work my friend. Will. The chosen board be able to accept dual extruders?

YES, since both of the Z motors connected in serial (default DUetWifi setup) - one driver left without use. I'm planning to add another extruder :)

I am very interested in this idea, I am totally on board with this build and would love to setup a chimera dual extruder, is that what you are thinking of going with as well?

That's fantastic! Your work is always so inspiring. I. Was going to start on your am8 build, but now there is this.. Well. Sorry am8 but it's cube time!

Looking AWESOME! Now I have to build another printer :)

My first comment on this page, i had to... You have fixed me

This is the printer I was waiting for! Just awesome. I am speechless. Do you have PayPal for donations?

Thank you my friend..
I would like to say that all the hard work and the time spent on it was in order to give back to this awesome community.
Donations are nice and much appreciated (i added a link at the end of the page), however i must say that to me even a good word, a remix, design improvement or a useful suggestion would get the same appreciation :)

You can´t receive personal money payments. So the donation is minus PayPal fees. Maybe you can change some of your settings for future donations?

Wow, that is one sexy looking machine! I wish you had posted this sooner, I just got done designing my own like this and am almost done with the build. I may just have to make this one my 3rd printer!! lol
Outstanding work.

i just said the same thing to myself.... i literally just printed out my own parts and finished assembling the frame. I do have most of the materials for another printer so maybe ill put this one together as well!

I´m speachless, it´s so f...... awesome man. One more time another great job Ben Levi.
I think your MGN12 AM8 was very good, but this one is outstanding!!

I´m speachless, it´s so f...... awesome man. One more time another great job Ben Levi.
I think your MGN12 AM8 was very good, but this one is outstanding!!

Thanks bud :)

Nice! I've been looking forward to this, Now to have a good rake through the files and see whats what :D

Hi, you can explore the 3d model and the parts in this link: https://a360.co/2FLRqSa
Press the cube icone on the top left side to see the names of the parts. You can isolate parts and do lots of stuff there
:)

Yes I noticed. I'm impressed. All I need is a Titan Aero mount and I'm a happy camper. Most of the parts will come from my BLV Mod lol, I need one 400mm MGN 12 rail, so that helps. Otherwise its mainly aluminum profiles :D So I'll print the parts, then cannibalise the BLV mod and build this I think :D

Thanks again for your hard work.

Thanks a lot m8, This machine looks awsome. Just ordered the extrusions whoohoo! Can't wait to build it.

This looks great! Can't wait till you have everything listed. I will probably wait until the files for the BMG Clone direct drive have been upload.

Just want to update you that tomorrow i will upload the BMG direct drive mount :)

Thanks m8 :)
Working on it every day..

Thank you my friend :)

Thank you my friend :)

It's a fantastic work.Well done.

Best work I have ever seen for 3D printer DIY design ! Its an amazing work, well done !

Thanks Igor :)

Holy crap! that is some next level post right there, thank you for the share it looks amazing!!

Thank you my dear friend :)
Sharing is wonderful !

bonjour,
il n'y a pas de firmware?

merci.
très beau travail

Thank you my friend:)
I uploaded the firmware and its available inside the ZIP file as: "BLV mgn Cube DuetWifi SD-card FW config.zip"

Comments deleted.

First Thank you !

Is it possible to run this with a 500x500 Bed ?

If yes what would I need to change

Hi, and thank you !
Yes it is possible, Since it's a modular design all you have to do is
to increase the extrusions and mgn rails By the width and length that suits your needs.

Thank you for the Answer pls check you PM