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im trying to assemble the devided bottom plate but can’t find any instructions on how too do this. In an earlier post you mentioned to use 2020 brackets. Are there any step or stl files for those brackets?
Any help would be great.
a corner bracket like the one you have used to the profiles.
Join the facebook group - it was asked a few times and it has been answered :)
Thanks for your quick reply, I’m not on Facebook and I don’t want to be there. And the plate is just laying on these brackets?
Thanks in advance
i found this screw for the z axis, is it correct? on the link you provided it only reach 600mm, wich is not enough for the taller version https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-THSL-700-8D-Lead-Screw-Dia-8MM-Pitch-2mm-Lead-8mm-Length-700mm-with/32812584001.html?spm=2114.search0604.3.31.dbee5273xINdY3&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_319_317_10696_10084_453_10083_454_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_537_10302_536_10843_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=860cffe0-35c3-4bcb-b61c-55038bd5f327-4&algo_pvid=860cffe0-35c3-4bcb-b61c-55038bd5f327&transAbTest=ae803_5
Hi there - I've build a hybrid BLV MGN Cube (Most of the parts but using a different controller). In fact, that's what I wanted to ask about - I am done with construction and it's time to start wiring and configuring my RAMPS 1.4 board to work with this. (I couldn't afford the Duet.) Can anyone suggest a preset configuration that I could start with that would work with this? Would a basic CoreXY Setup work all right, or are there any settings that need to be chaged? Any help appreciated. Thanks - Craig
Why not try the Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 board? It's 32 bit and very cheap, even when you take in the cost of the TMC2208 or 2130 drivers
The SKR is an excellent board..
I've recently installed it on my Anet E10. I love it. Very easy to configure and setup in Marlin 2.0. The trouble is, they keep bringing out updated boards all the time just lately so you end up being spoiled for choice lol
I moved from a LERDGE-K to an SKR 1.3, i was really dissappointed the LERDGE-K does not support UART mode of my TMC2208 driver. Now I'm using TMC2209 drivers for (future) sensorless homing and more current for my direct E-Drive. It is working verry nice so far but the quality of the prints needs to be improved. On Aliexpress you can get the SKR 1.3 with TMC2209 for around 60$ (without LCD).
Nice design with one fatal flaw, has been designed with the belt chewing flanged bearing idlers. Proper 20T toothed and smooth idlers on appropriate locations would have been much better, same with the drive pulley, 20T would have been better than 16T, which is smaller than the minimum pulley diameter recommended by belt manufacturers. Well, I try to modify the parts for proper idlers.
Is there any explanation about what the NeoPixels are doing? I've been through the code but can't really figure out what they add.
Could you make a little documentation about them, video maybe?
Its explained in the github.
My problem is, I don't know how to upload the code. Now reading arduino code uploading for dummies. :-)
The github doesn't explain much more than that they are status lights.
It would be nice if it explained what ring does what if the printer has some status.
Then you should raise those request to the coder in the github...:-)
What is the maximum size of the hot bed?
Please where did you source the M2.5 12mm Flat Head Machine Screw? Are these the same as countersunk screws? Thanks.
I've followed the instructions wiring up the neopixel rings. All it does is just light up bright white light when the x-carriage is homing. Then it stays light it up. Is uploading the ino file via DWC the correct way? Thank you.
Is it possible to install the extruder 180 degrees apart, so that the opening lever is not behind the belt?
in your picture the extruder is mounted upside-down. The blue clip side is the input not the output. You may mount the extruder it outside of the frame.
Yeah, but what speaks against the input and output to swap? In normal operation, you can also retract the Pilament. So it might be possible to turn the extruder and flip the cables or change the direction in the Firmware?
I have not tried that personally, but on BLV Facebook page someone did it and broke the coupling, It was teared out of the plastic housing. The clip at the input side seems not to be resistant to high pressure.
Okay, thank you, then I will try to position the extruder the right way around
Any Reason why Left/Right Tensioner - mount are diffrent ? Why they be not just mirrored ?
Because the belts are running on different levels. For the belts to run in parallel, the tensioner-idler have to be of different heights
Im running the printer at 12 volt psu. But Got an issue with the pause button on the internet interface, I can pause the print, but can not resume it. It say power to low. How can I run that option without 24 voltage?
what is your under voltage detection threshold? Maybe you have set it up for 24V supply. Try to configure-it to about 8-9V
I just uploaded the firmware. Nothing else :) where can I change it on the firmware files?
The under-voltage threshold is configured by the M911 command. Check here for the correct configuration of M911:
The thresholds shall be set to about 8-10V. it is configured in config.g file of the duet.
Due to a few complaints about the Funsser bed, I decided to look for a better solution. while looking for a decent replacement, I found and ordered for testing the Fysetc complete bed set: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cVZ2z0MY
I have purchased 2 of those Fysetc beds and neither has been even close to flat. Just wanted to give the heads up about them. I'm using one on my Taz6 and had to put glass on it with a silicone thermal pad between the pcb heater and the glass for it to be usable. I will say though, it heats up fast.
I think the core problem is these big 300x300 aluminum beds are all made from rolled aluminum so everyone's flatness is going to vary. You may get lucky with the fysect plate and then then next person who orders will get an unusable one...
What I have just tried is using the funssor bed from the BOM with an borosilicate glass bed on top of that, and the fysect surface on top of that glass. Duet tells me the bed is far flatter now. Still not perfectly flat, but mostly green/light green versus hills and valleys of reds, greens and yellows!
Notice that the bed is FR4 PCB (not a rolled aluminum plate) but you are right, it's very hard to get a flat surface.
A good tip: don't use the standard T-nuts, they will give you a lot of frustration ;-)
INSTEAD: get the SPRING T-NUTS: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32892731703.html?spm=a2g0s.90423184.108.40.20654c4dXj3saM
I have replaced all the standard T-nuts now with these Spring T-nuts and now I am sure that everything is connected in the right way.
(the standard T-nuts will turn sometimes in the frame, so you think they are right fitted but my experience is that this is not allways true.
Ciao stò costruendo questa stampante modificandola a mio piacimento, ho cambiato alcune cose, quando sarà finita pubblicherò il tutto per ora posto alcuni dei cambiamenti per spunti di eventuali mod.
Aggiungo i link delle mie modifiche, non sò come aggiungere nei remix.
hello with the ball screws is that I would have a better accuracy than the trapezoidal opinions because I'm afraid that the trapezoidal screws length of 600 which sag or increase the diameter of the screws when you think you could give me your opinion or recommendations on screws thank you
hello Ben. where to be fitted end stops?
Helps to install the Y limit switch as you assemble the frame, not after. I ended up remixing the part as I could not get it on after I had built everything. Just a FYI as you build everything.
Hi, there are only 2 endstops, take a look at the attached picture.
also, it will be easy to understand if you will explore the 3D viewer of the project: Click Here
what about this one with no mount? and theres another one on the head.
After mounting everything i'll recognized the MAX endstops are not useful (for me). What they are used for?
hello can we replace the trapezoidal screws z with ball screws because the height of z is 600 thank you
It will not fit the printed parts, you will have to design a suitable bed holder for that.
bonjour avec les vis a billes est ce que j aurais une meilleur précision que les vis trapézoïdales car j ai peur que les vis trapézoïdales de longueur de 600 quelle fléchisse ou alors augmenter le diamètre des vis quand pense tu pourrais tu me donner ton avis ou des préconisations sur les vis merci
Can somebody point me to some 0.7mm thick washers on aliexpres? using the 0.5 ones and doubling them up does not work out for me.
Also I want to home front left not back left so I changed :
G1 S1 Y355 F6000 ; move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 S1 Y-355 F6000 ; move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
And it home's alright but then when I want to move the Y It go's crazy make scary noises and moves the head at random positions
like it's getting 2 different instructions.
What do I have to change to make it home left front?
For Y: first make sure the axes move freely; no binding, grit, etc. Then try reducing speed and acceleration. Sounds like they are missing steps.
I have reinstalled the back Y switch and it homes ok now back left.
But when I do a grease run it stops left front, when I home it I have sometimes the same problems.
So I think you are spot on.
Moving Y by hand it feels the same from front to back I can hear the balls circulating in the bearings.
But it's worth investigating thanks!
A beautiful project, a worthy heir to the AM8 MGN. Is the facebook page still active?
It's very active. I get notifications everyday from it
Hello, I think I've just about found all the parts, however I found a Mean Well PSU that is 24v and 600w, I was wondering if someone could confirm this is what I want? Seems much cheaper then anywhere else, I'm also looking at buying my extrusions from them, so I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something :)
How can I adjust this for a 235x235x200 build volume?
Pretty easily :)
What printer bed do you have? if its a custom can you provide the location of the screws?
It's a Creality Ender-3 bed. It's 235x235mm and the acrew holes are inset 32mm from each edge so they form a square 203x203mm.
Thank you :)
I found a step file of the ender 3 bed and calculated that you would need 106mm extrusions.
I also updated the BOM and now you will find the correct size for the Ender-3 on the BOM :)
The Excel spreadsheet doesn't have the Ender 3 bed option on it, could you please update this file? Thank you.
Would I be able to reduce the overall size of the printer for a smaller footprint or are the frame part sizes a minimum needed for the mechanical parts?
Cool. Thank you.
My accidental switch to MGN15 Z rails is almost complete. I will post everything as a remix once I am further along with it. All my extrusion pieces were drilled by Misumi. I had to make some minor changes to fit things around the wider Misumi corner brackets. Waiting on the bed to arrive and then it will be final assembly time!
First of all I wanted to congratulate you for the work done, it's an incredible project, Congratulations.
I had a question about the printer architecture in general: Why do commercial 3D printers never use the CoreXY architecture but rather Ultimaker? The Ultimaker system would have more advantages than the CoreXY?
Thank you in advance
Hi, Just a quick one. On you BOM spreadsheet it says 8mm Leadscrew with 4mm lead. But on your Thing Details page where you have provided the links it says 8mm Leadscrew with 8mm Lead.
Which is correct?
Great build and write up BTW - wish more people illustrated things like this. Keep up the amazing work.
PS. I have been considering using a chimera hotend. Does x/y axis mount allow this and is there an interchangeable one (may be adding a spindle at a later date) :-). thanks and take care
What is your reason not to use 2mm lead? In my printer I use 2mm lead and the Z calibration it is much more stable than with the 8 or 4mm lead. After calibration I never need to adjust. I even do not need Z sensor.
The 8mm with 8mm lead is the correct one.
8mm thread. The 4mm should probably read 400mm - the overall length of the screw.
When trying to buy linear rail seller asked which type preload? Normal preload or light preload? Whats the difference? I buyed normal verison. I searched here but cant find answer.
light or medium preload. do not buy a heavy preload - since it will barely move.
the best rails that you can get are from the links i add to the BOM.
Can i user the "better" corner brackets like these ones : https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/HOTSale-20pcs-2028-corner-fitting-angle-aluminum-20-x-28-L-connector-bracket-fastener-match-use/32642711369.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.14c03c00nH7qui ?
Yes you can, it will fit
Does somebody know a place where I can get a really flat aluminium plate in the EU?
I ordered 2 320x3200 plates but they are not flat enough to print on. I use a 600 watt 220v silicone heater.
I went to my local glass shop and bought a sheet of hardened glass. I also purchase some aluminum sheet to ahere my silicone heater too. I painted that black so the ir sensor would detect the botom. I'm still building mine but allmy printers have glass and I personnaly belive that to be the best surface, Cheers Jace
I have used a IR probe in the past with glass and a black bed, it did not work out for me. I also think the IR will not go true the glass but tries to detect top of the glass bed. It works so so... Anyhow I agree with glass it always worked fine for me, but even with glass I need a more or less strait aluminium buildplate.
Does anyone here print in PETG? I’m having trouble with prints not sticking on the pei/spring board listed in the bom. I can’t discuss on Facebook because I don’t have an account.
I have tried:
Wiping the surface with isopropyl
Good first layer
Bed temp at 60
Slowing down print to ~30 (helps)
And the skirt seems to stick well, just not the part.
Actually that PETG will stick to PEI more than PLA.
sometimes, your PEI need to be "refreshed", just scrab gently your PEI sheet with a brass wool a bit and clean it with isopropyl
I am thinking the issue is that the IR probe is not consistent in homing/measuring. The PEI sheet had adhesive already attached, so I painted the top surface of the spring metal flat black. So the stack up is (glue stick)-PEI-adhesive-flat black paint-metal-heatbed.
Prints that have large, flat areas on the first layer can stick fine - rafts, brims, skirts all stick fine. But when the first layer is many short lines it will not stick. For example, Benchy prints great when I print on a raft, although I can't remove Benchy from the raft because PETG sticks so well to itself. But when I print Benchy without the raft, the first layer won't stay down. Likewise when i try to print the front grill with all the hex shaped holes. It just isn't sticking on the first layer.
Do you think switching to a BL touch might be a better solution? Or some sort of IR-opaque sticker or paint on the top of the PEI?
I print PETG on Painters tape same as PLA
Are you sure PETG can be used with your PEI? Any PEI surface ive seen won't work with PETG
Short answer: No. But I have read many places (online) that PETG sticks so well to PEI that parts can be difficult to release. Just not in my experience so far.
I dont know if that is the same as ABS but I have ABS printing it in and enclosure and the bed at 110c and I have had no warping issues since implmenting the higher temp and enclosure, Cheers Jace
Ether that ot he bed was not quite level!
Thanks for the suggestions.
Hotend 240 bed 65-70 (It's a bit trial and error not all temp sensors are created equally or configured the correct way)
Normally I would advice against printing on clean class because PETG sticks so good to it you can have problems getting the part of
destroying the class bed. But try printing on a cheap mirror, you can buy the 20x20cm ones in most DIY stores.
There is also a chance that it's being caused by the printing shrinking by cooling the top layers to vast. Try turning your part cooling fan to 50%. Try printing with a box over your printer.
In general it's not needed, you can print PETG fine in a open printer with 50% part cooling fan on. @ 240 ish temps.
A glue stick on glass will work fine. I don't have any experience with PETG and PEI.
Print the first layer slow @ 20 ish mm.
I use only glass surface at the moment, Depending on the glass quality it may or not really be affected by PET-G. I buy very cheap glass 3mm sheets from a local glass dealer, he actually cuts them for me from leftovers. I printer more than 2 kilos of PET-G with my current glass and no damage. I admit after a while the glass gets tired and parts of glass will chip out of it and needs to be replaced, but which surface do not need replacement from time to time. For the 1 dollar / piece I pay for them I really do not care :) how often needs to be replaced.
Thanks for the tips. I tried bed at 70 C with glue stick, cooling start at layer 4. And I enabled he mesh bed correction. It definitely made an improvement! Benchy stuck till the end, but parts of the print were knocked off because of deposits and stringys, I think from retraction leftovers. I plan on raising the temp to see if that helps, and maybe increasing the retraction distance next.
Glue stick helps a lot with PETG. I have printed quite a lot of it on my Ender 3 and my Lulzbot Taz 6. 70-75 bed temps seem to work best for me. Both of those printers have PEI coated glass. When I eventually build this printer it will also have PEI coated glass. 240-245C hotend, 60mm/s print speed for layers 2+ and first layer I print at 40% of that speed.
What retraction settings are you using for the PETG? I am suspicious that the retraction on the first layer is contributing to the filament lifting off.
Both my Ender 3 and Taz6 have direct drives (Trianglelabs bondtech clones with E3d V6 hotends) and my retraction settings on both are 1.7mm @ 2200mm/min speed. Nozzle offset is quite important with PETG. I shoot for double what I would with PLA which is basically a piece of paper folded to make it twice as thick. That works well for .3 & .4mm nozzles. For a .6mm nozzle I use a folded piece of glossy paper that comes with the Sunlu filament I get...just a little thicker than regular paper.
I have not yet tried, but I print with PETG on my lulzbots, both of which are PEI surfaced beds. I find that you have to use glue stick to get good adhesion, and maybe bump bed temp up. Also, PETG seems hopeless if the bed isn't perfectly level, and the funsor bed in the BOM for the BLV appears to be pretty unlevel.
Thanks for the suggestions. So glue stick directly on PEI AND bed at 70-75C? I will try this also. Any recommendation on glue stick brand?
There is so much info out there saying all kinds of things. Blue tape on PEI didn't work for me at all, but maybe I need a different brand of blue tape. Also trued glue stick on blue tape, again no success.
Suggestions are very effective for you at a low cost.
please use Bakelite
I use Elmer's disappearing purple, but only because that what I stole from my son :-)
I also have been getting cheap e-Sun filament and learned I need to dry it for a few hours at 80-100c to avoid poor layer adhesion. A few spools worked out of the bag, but some not very well. This might be more important for me because I suspect 3mm sits in some warehouse longer than 1.75.
Building a slightly remixed Misumi frame BLV with predrilled countersunk holes in the 2040. Just got the parts today, looking forward to getting this working. Thanks for the great build!
I haven't made this but I had to pop in to congratulate you on your amazing work. Well done!
First, just awesome design and documentation!! Just finished my first print. Thank you again!
I was wondering if anyone happen to get a Mosquito hotend adapter for the Blv cube?
Great design !!
Now that I am finished your design of the AM8 with MGN12 mod, I am looking for a corexy design to build.
I am testing everything now that my BLV is finally hooked up. The head moves to the right and back (+X+Y) with G1 S2 X10 F3000 and to the right and forward with G1 S2 Y10 F3000 (+X-Y), as expected. Why, when I home all axis, does it home to the back left corner of the bed. Shouldn't that be (0,300) and the front left of the bed should be (0,0)? I am using firmware 2.02 (RTOS).
It was meant to home to the rear left (homing towards the stepper position).
in the Thing description, you can find a video demonstrates the correct motion (attached pic)
Hi Ben, thanks for the reply. I did watch that video and my printer moves in those directions. But if I home it, won't it set 0,0 to the rear left? Then when printing, it won't be able to move in the +Y direction, will it?
Although the homing is at the rear left - the 0,0 coordinate will always be at the left front bed position.
the homing is just a reference point..
OK, got it. I did some more reading and think I understand now. So here is more info for those interested. In the config.g file:
M208 X320 Y321 Z350 S0 sets the maximum coordinate for the axis, with Y set to 321
M574 X1 Y2 S1 sets the endstop configurations, Y2 means Y is endstop at high end, S1 means active high
^^^ this was confusing me since the word high is used for both 'active high' and 'high end'. Basically, if I'm understanding correctly, it tells the printer that the Y trigger is at the maximum coordinate (321) when it is triggered.
Any reason why the link to "BLV 24V Heated Bed 310x310 with N35UH magnets" is removed. Also I can´t find this on Aliexpress. Now there is only a Link to headed bed with CR-10 specs.
Yes, until he will fix the issue with the PEI coated layer not sticks right, then i will add it again.
Thanks for the info. Just cancelled my order to be on the safe side. Seems that the problem can not be solved quickly because Sealand store agreed to the cancellation within seconds after my request.
Just wanted to update the guys that pre-ordered the full kits from the Blurolls/Sealand store (at Aliexpress).
Since few guys asked me, I sent him a message about the delay. He sent me some photos and told me that he is in the process of packing all the kits. these are the photos he sent me:
Any update on what the delay is with the beds from Sealand? They are not responding to questions. Thanks!
For those of you, who are like me a sissy in working with mains voltage, I've found a PSU with a connector for a remote Power on/off switch.https://www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/ac-dc-single-output-enclosed-power-supply-output-hrpg--600--24
With this PSU it is not necessary to put mains voltage to the control panel.
I've bought such a PSU at Ebay for 50€.
How can I switch the power supply? Via the CN100 port?
Take a look:
In the manual of the RSP-500-24 a voltage source (5V) is switched. A 5V battery should do the trick. At 5V = 8mA.
Only a button/switch between RC- and RC+ bridges only the connections of the internal control of the PSU, but has no effect.
That's right for the RSP-500-24. The HRGP-600 series works different. RC-/RC+ short= PSU off.
I've finished building the printer - everything's working well. I'm hoping you can offer some insight though. I've printed a couple of test pieces, and I have to say, I'm not getting the same results as you are. I've triple checked my measurements, made sure everything is perfectly square, slides move smoothly, belts are flipped, but I'm not sure why I'm not getting perfectly flat shells.
Can you offer some insight into what might be causing this? I've attached some pictures. Thank you in advance
It looks that your axis are fine, however, the last time i had those lines where when i test print without doing a PID process
for the hotend and especially for the BED sensors. Please send me a private message or Join the facebook group and will do my best to help you.
Until now, most of the problems i assisted were related to bad ball bearing (ball bearing inner size was too much big and had free movement inside), printing without PID, and not using the provided config for the duet board..
For those who want to use 12V fans with the DuetWifi board while using 24V system.
the attached wiring diagram will help you :)
notice: no need to connect the GND since its shared GND with the psu.
Hi Ben, almost finished with my build but when I assembled the hotend assembly I noticed that the part cooling fan is way to high.
Most of it only cools the heater block and not the part it self. Is this how you intended it or did I do something wrong?
I also have a question about the X mount bottom left en right parts.
These parts gave me a headache. I printed them in PLA. PETG and ASA on 3 different printers and the results are always the same.
There seems to be a lot of internal stress in the bottom part of the print and as a result this happens
I corrected it by sanding down the inside of the parts (where the mgn carriage sits) and by playing with the tension on the screws.
It all moves oke now but I think it could be a lot better. Did you run any kind of simulation on the parts to see what would happen?
Anyhow thanks for all the hard work, and for all the support you give to the community.
First, I must say it looks beautiful! in what method have you used to fuse the front panel parts together? it's perfect :)
second, i can promise you that the flow will be exactly to the center of the hotend, when it will work you will see it by yourself.
where did you get the mgn carriage? i had such problem with a specific store which sent me a nonstandard mgn12H carriage (this is also the reason that i bought from 6 different stores until I found a good reliable store of mgn rails) It should sit exactly with 0.4 tolerance.
Please join our facebook group, i would be happy to see you posting pictures of your build :)
I used a 2 part epoxy glue to put the parts together and some support on the back to make the construction more stiff. Then I used a polyester filler to fill in the gaps. Sanded it al down with 400 grid sandpaper and used motip spray putty (very nice stuff) and then spaypainted it black.
The bottom grill does have some neopixels right now and its displaying the knight rider scanner bar.
The MGN rails were bought from the seller you recommended the " CNA Mechanical Parts Store" on aliexpress.
4 out of 5 were good, number 5 is a bit meh... I used it for the Z axis time will tell if it is any good.
The Y moves oke ish... again we will see what will happen with some real printing next month when Its finished.
It's not that I moves badly but I think they will wear out very soon. (but I'm a bit of a perfectionist so maybe it will be fine)
The side panels and back panel are 3mm aluminium sheets, its a very heavy printer now ;-)
I Will post some pictures and make some videos when the build is done.
But because of the privacy concerns I have with facebook I will not open a account there.
Again thanks for you response, and take care!
Sad to see that the facebook group for this open source project has been changed to a closed user group now.
I as a user, it does not seem so important to me if it is public or private, but definitely the continuous presence of Ben Levi keeps this incredible project solid as a rock
Many members asked me to close it due to privacy issues. My Apolgies.
it is your project and hard work we are all participating from. So no need to apologize for anything. Thanks for the explanation.
To the ones who asked for closing: Privacy on facebook: LOL
I want to ask if anyone has a gcode for cura 4.0 for BLV CUBE 310x310x365.
YMMV, but for a generic FFF, here's some startup gcode for CURA (swiped from one of Ben's samples, assumes BMG, V6, paneldue, & IR sensor. I don't have paneldue so I don't hear music):
M104 S190 T0
M109 S190 T0
G21 ; metric values
;G29 S2 ; mark if you want to disable mesh grid
G32 ; Run mesh grid compenstion
; Purge extruder
;G92 E0 F100 ; reset extruder
G1 Z10 F3000 ;Move the platform up 10mm to prevent scratching of surface
M98 P/macros/Filament/Purge ; Run nozzle purge macro
;Prime the extruder
;G1 E-1 F2000 ; Retract 1mm filament
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 E-5.5000 F5100
and end gcode:
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G1 X0 Y300 F1000 ; prepare for part removal
M84 ; disable motors
M107 :turn off part cooling fan
M81 ; shutdown
; play song
M300 S294 P200 ;D4: 294
M300 S588 P200 ;D5: 588
M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440
M300 S392 P200 ;G4: 392
M300 S784 P200 ;G5: 784
M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440
M300 S740 P200 ;F#5: 740
M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440
and under extruder don't forget to set the filament diameter to 1.75
with the belts clipped ob both sides they are not parallel and at a slight angle.
this will cause slight dimensional errors.
Dear Guido, the belts don't need to be parallel as long they have the same angle on each side.
the angle help to reduce 15% of the vibrations and flipping belts almost totally canceled it.
(While in my hypercube i got 350% more vibrations - measured with lab equipment)
Here is a circle test that i made for demnstation - a perfect circle print..
I redesigned the X-carriage. This eliminates the need for cable ties. I will post the files in the remixes as soon as I have printed and tested them.
Wow ... Thats very cool ... Please upload the Remix
Okay, its online.
Please let me know if it works, I will only come to the end of the week to test.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3610293
Well done! the combination of the fan holder and the belt holder is a great idea :)
I will definitely build this one day!
Do not say, do it! ;)
hey, awesome build. looking forward to starting this
I do have one question so far. if I may ask, what are these used for?https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/5-Stks-Hoek-Plaat-Corner-Brace-Platte-T-Vorm-Reparatie-Beugel-60mm-x-60mm-Voor-Aluminium/32839448854.html?aff_platform=link-c-tool&cpt=1556812383888&onelink_item_from=32839448854&onelink_thrd=0.0&onelink_page_from=ITEM_DETAIL&onelink_item_to=32839448854&pvid=a6a56a9b-212b-4836-9df9-6964d43602d3&onelink_duration=1.556898&sk=3RhFdTa&aff_trace_key=993ebcdea4bd40fda4a8ed9b0b7d9f25-1556812383888-07262-3RhFdTa&onelink_status=noneresult&scm=1007.22893.125764.0&terminal_id=1e471d437e5a4215829959c21b0ddc02&onelink_page_to=ITEM_DETAIL
T-Brackets , I'm not able to see them in the 3D model (yet)
Nobody has yet determined the purpose of the T brackets in the BOM, but if you elect not to add left and right side panels, they are good for reinforcing the 2040 extrusions that the Z axis attaches to.
i hope this picture can help you
Yes - this would be my recommendation as well. Though it appears you have used 4 brackets where the BOM specifies 2 brackets in total.
Are you intending to add panels? Will they be cut to account for the various brackets or will they simply rest on top?
I'm interested in building this printer but I cannot see a single image/drawing/render to see where does the spool go when you have enclosed printer. On the back or on the side? Is there any solution to keep the spool in the enclosure somewhere it is easy to replace?
There's enough room to keep all your electronic components to one side of the back panel and still have enough room to mount some kind of 1kg spool holder to the left side of that panel. I explored this option but its not really practical since it makes things look cleaner but would make it super hard to access. The best way really does seem to be to use the popular filament holder here on thingiverse along with the nice 2020 adapter in the remix section here and mount the spool to whatever side you want, then if you install panels, remember to cut out a void for the holder.
I am super interested in a nice compact drybox that can hold a 3kg spool since I'll be using this printer with only one color PLA so want to keep it loaded and fed filament at all times with minimal interaction.
Thanks. I'll look into options. We need new 3d printer for the lab with min 220mm buid area for prototypes. We print PLA for tests and PETG for functional prototypes and that's it. Enclosed printer is a must because of the area the printers are in. I'll try to develop a box for 2 spools as this is all that we need. I like how the electronics is placed on the bottom on the Twotrees Sapphire S. If they come with new version with larger build area I might just buy that one and then just customize....
A little off topic but for a lab I'd recommend something more mainstream like a Lulzbot TAZ with an enclosure if for no other reason than non-3D printing literate people would still be able to operate it and get it serviced if you aren't around.
I am using an IKEA Drybox with 8 spools (with circulated heated air). but you can use any extrusion filament holder :)
For example here is a remix made by Frank Schmidt: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3482452
Does anyone know the answer to the question below: (I asked this previously but I think in the wrong thread and got lost)?
What is the reason that twisting the belts is now required instead of using the geared idler?
On this Side, if you don`t become an answer, it was already commented ;)
Blv - in reply to fabio330
Mar 28, 2019
Dear Fabio, although The GT2 16t can fit exactly, I'm afraid they will not stand with the heavy load/pressure.
The cheap Chinese idler will fail after 10-20 hours of work, while a good gt2 can handle much more but less then 623zz bearings.
If you will hear a squicking sound - you should know that the idlers need to be replaced.
In case that you decides to use the 623zz please flip the belts on the rear so the flat side of each belt will touch the corner bearing (and not the teeth side).
What about the spots where your belts tooths are against 623zz bearings? Wouldn't that hurt belts?
you are right, this is why I flipped the belts on the rear - so that only the flat belt's surface will touch the ball bearings.
image attached :)
But what about the "Left Tensioner Mount? There pushs the tooths against the bearings
Yes this is exactly my concern!
I have just finished building the Printer and I am already thrilled. However, I also have problems with the belt.
I have flipped the belt as recommend - it seems that the twist forced the belts to ride on the pulley flanges, signs of wear can already be seen.
At the Tensioner, the tooth run against the bearings - but my second, bigger problem, the belt is not in parallel with the x-guide.
In my opinion the bearings have to be a little further apart?!
How did you solve it?
Can someone post a photo from the top view?
First, check that all the bearings have a washer between the two flanged ball bearings. in order to save your belts make sure that all the bearing is on the same height (use washer if necessary). I already came across a guy who that had to post-process few of his 3d printed parts and as a result, the heights were not completely the same, so he used a washer to compensate.
about the tensioner - since its 180 degrees turn the vibrations almost completely canceled. However, if its not parallel then something was not installed correctly. The internal component of each tensioner is not identical (right and left are different) also it can be accidentally installed upside down.. I would recommend you to open the 3D viewer and make sure you have used the right components for each side.
I have a question about the surface on which we print. Can you use a builtak instead of PEI or something else?
If you are electing to use the IR sensor recommended by the BOM, I suspect that BuildTak might be a good solution as it's a dark color and darker/more matt colors might help a bit with accurate readings. I used the recommended PEI but if I had it to do over again (or I should say when I refurbish my print surface) I intend to use "Printbrite +"
Theres one thing currently giving me a headache. I've ordered extrusions and connectors according to your BOM, but I cant figure out where I need to fix the 60mm T-plate. Can you please give me a hint?
Hi, the T shape bracket was meant to be installed on the 442mm extrusion that the Z mgn rail fixed to (2 sides).
Thanks, that should work. I guess this is missing in your 3D models.
I built the original Hypercube, and most of the rails are now scored and damaged (cheap bearings!)
So I purchased the mgn rails and looking to rebuild the printer when I came across this build. I Like it!
My big question is: all my extrusions are 2020. Can this be completely built with 2020 extrusion?
Dear Chris, i have answered it at Duet forum, I think it was you according to the user name :)
anyway here is the answer:
before i published the project, i had to run countless software simulations, hw tests and so on.
Using 2040 is very crucial for the rigidity of the frame. Unfortunately, at least two of the guys that tried to use 2020 instead of 2040 had massive ghosting/ringing and problems related to frame changes.
I would advise you to stick with the original frame design..
Hello, and thank you for your answer, just the info I was looking for.
I completely understand the 2040 rigidity, but like I mentioned in my first post, I already have the 2020.
I've dumped a lot of money into this printer now, and need to stop spending more on it right now.
I just needed to know it COULD be done, so I can get a (good quality) working printer again.
I'll just have to sacrifice the speed and acceleration until I can get the 2040.
with the 2040 extrusions the whole BLV mgn cube is more rigid.
Thanks for not reading my question, and giving me information commonly known.
Can this BLV printer be completely built with 2020 extrusion?
No thanks for being so crude, Chris.
To be honest, get involved with Ben's construction and you will find the answer
Ask a simple question. Get a response with nothing to do with said question.
Then get accused of being rude... Welcome to the internet... sigh.
what is the use for this 4 slot? cable tie?
Yes, if needed :)
Perfect thank you
I found the .step file, which is much appreciated but it does not preserve the parametric features, sketches etc. Are you willing to share your original Fusion 360 files on autodesk360.com? This way it would much cleaner to customize.
Regardless of the answer, thanks for your work and more importantly for sharing it.
Unfortunately, due to a technical issue, the f3d file cannot be exported.
I have used in earlier stages an external resources that I designed and breaking the components link messing the design.
when i try to export the file as f3d - fusion360 doesn't allow me since its linked with external components.
so my only option is to export it as Step (CAD) file
Actually, I have another question. What is the reason that twisting the belts is now required instead of using the geared idler?
Thanks for replying!
Important notice for those who bought DuetWifi clone from Fysetc:Michael Sonnenberg - a member in the facebook group found that the Fyestc clone is missing a jumper on the fan select pins.
the jumper should be on the V_FAN and VIN pins, without it the fans will not work (attached photo).
Many thanks to Michael for this important information
Oie ! Thanks for this message ! I searched (ctrl F) in the comment any problem with fan not working and found this ! This made my fan works !
Perfect documentation and help solving problems from Ben as always !
hello ben levi I have a question Can you help me?
I have a 24v 16.5a power. I didn't get the LED. is this power supply enough?
It supposed to exact, it may limit you a bit in the future.
does this work for now?
wow!! this printer is simply Amazing!! Thank you Ben for your awesome design!!
Thank you Matthew
I really appreciate that and enjoy sharing my work with this awesome community :)
There is some chinese guy claiming he made this printer and selling it on aliexpress....
The seller is blurolls and he contacted Ben asking if he could sell all the parts for the kit. Ben is aware of this and a link was posted to it a ways down the comments.
you can re-send the firmware configuration file with the correct jason file, if I load the online version some data on RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool get high, maybe you have modified the text file without modifying the jason, since I have to configure the printer with the bltouch it goes into error on all printer data, then I wanted to ask you why you use 16 microsteep on x, y and not 32 axes?
On my 2020 brackets are noses which fit in the guide of the extrusions.
When I try to assemble the horizontal 2020 extrusions (upper userpanel mount & rear wall mount) those noses impede that the brackets are laying flat on the extrusions. On Aliexpress all the brackets have that noses. Should I remove those noses?
Had the same problem and filed them off, its pretty easy (and done in less than a minute per piece) even without a vise since its aluminum
A removal of the noses is not necessary, also much too complex. You may have to omit the washers on the M5-10 screws.
Hello, Mi name is victorino.
I'm making the printer, I'm almost finished, I'm calibrating it and all that, but I have a problem with a lag of printing layers or loss of steps and I think it's related to speeds and accelerations.
Somebody could help me??
PS: Ben Levi, I want to get in touch with you, because I have added to my printer, instead of 2 threaded spindles, 1 single ball screw.
since most of the problems I encountered were caused as a result of using diverse hardware that not suitable/not configured properly.
I would advise you to join the Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/BenLevi this way it will be easier to assist you :)
UPDATE: guys, please use the FW configuration that I provided in the project zip. also, before you change any acc/jerk/current or interpolation - instead of guessing them please calculate it before it will ruin your printing experience.
Great design thanks, I starrted newly, I collected most but of course waiting for the aliexp. orders :) still have a problem of my own, can we use 7'' paneldue, that is what I have now and dont want to buy 5". does anyone did a modification like this? Ben ?
Hi Ben, I'm running into an issue - wondering if you've come across this same problem. When calibrating the Z height, I've noticed that the height I obtain from calibration doesn't seem high enough. I run through your calibration and come up with a difference of 0.725 - I'll add that to the config file, but when I try to print, the nozzle is still way to high, and nothing sticks. I have to add additional height - ex. change to 0.900 in order to adequately squish the first layer to the bed... It's quite frustrating due to the amount of trial and error required. I was wondering if you had any suggestions?
First, i will have to get more details about your setup: which sensor, board and fw version are you using?
on the final stage of the z calibration have you saved and restarted the printer?
also, recommend you to join the Project facebook group. it will be easier to assist you :)
Thanks for the note - As much as I despise facebook, it looks like I'm going to have to use it to gain insight from you and the members of the group.
are you on a duet board???what i do is go to config.g and go down to z probe and put z=0 ..then you go to machine control and get the noozle very close to bed(paper feel)..then g92 z0..(if you cant get close to bed type g92 z5)...then lower the bed and g30 s1 for a single probe....you do that in different heights say 10 15 20 30 mm and check the readings....usually numbers are close...i pick the number which the noozle is a bit far from the bed(i adjust with babysteps depends of the filament)
dold mechatronik seems to have a blv kit https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/index.php?k=1709&lang=eng
guys...the rails hiwin or the cheap ones need cleanining...that is de assembling the carriage clean with alcohol assemble and grease with lithium grease......i know its a bit of a pain but after you have done it you will notice the difference,,,the rail also needs a little clean up with a clothe..i m not a pro but i learned that from the first time i built the blv anet8 ...good luck with your builds
Sorry no, genuine Hiwin dont need any cleaning. This was also confirmed by Hiwin. Hiwin is producing rails and carriages for professionals. They wouldn't sell anything to the professional market if the carriages/rails needed to be cleaned manually before they can be used within an assembling process.
We talked with Hiwin techincian, they told me, there are 3 different duty carriages, light, medium and heavy. If the carriage is too light(extremely smoothly), it may be noisy when it moves fast.
I agree - too light carriage will be noisy as hell.
well you dont do that.....i m talking from my experience about 30 years(not in 3dprinting) and discusions with others..whatever metal,bearings,leadscrews,carriages they have to be clean and lubricated for best working results ....
Hello everyone and Ben.I receved the PanelDue 5i version withmy Duet board and i have redesigned the Front Panel for it.Currently i am printing the 3 version that i am trying and i am pretty sure it is the last.I uploaded it too if anyone want to use it.Enjoy!
Edit: the hole on top near the buttons is to hold my touch pen!
Se interessa https://it.aliexpress.com/item/Trasporto-libero-del-DHL-BLV-mgn-Cubo-3D-Stampante-Estrusione-di-Alluminio-Full-Frame-Kit-w/32983902509.html?spm=a2g0s.90423220.127.116.117c4c4d0kNg3g
117 euro spedizione gratuita.
Arrivati in 5 giorni
Quanto di dogana?
Hello all. I apologize in advance if any of this has been asked before but there are so many posts and I could not find my question/answer. I love this project and plan on going supreme on it. Has anyone any idea if it is possible to augment Hiwin Rails for W Rails? How would one go about doing that. Secondly, is there any plans/configuration for a bigger bed (500x500)? Thanks for your work on this Ben. I look forward to any responses the community may have!
Edit - Wanted to put links to the W Rails CAD designs I was considering
I have found the remix of the front for a 500x500 bed: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499939 but as far as the size should I just be adding 200 to the length of the extruded aluminum frame, as well as the linear rails for x & y, and getting a bit longer belts?
Sorry to piggy back on your message, but i also would like to build with a 500mm x 500mm bed, any help.
Thanks in advance.
Which screws should be used for attaching the rails to the profiles?
I want to thank you Ben, that you have made such awesome project. THANK YOU
thanks for all your explanation and the links, you saved me a lot of work.
Just tipped you
So, just a heads up to anyone looking at the Sealand kit. Mine was supposed to ship on the 15th, and as far as I know, it has not yet. I also can't get a response from the seller about the delay.
Its early enough yet that I am not worried about it, I just thought I would give the community a heads up.
Mine delayed too but only two days, ordered on the 18th and after two days they sent and i am very very happy with them.
both my hypercubes converted to crappy cheap rails and the hiwin rails are just fantastic. i was worried but after installation quality confirmed. now i have hiwin rails on one of my hypercube. very easy to install fantastic experience. planning to build blv printer after all parts arrive and i ordered another rails set for this
Thank you blv for sharing this
sorry about my english
Got a response back. The heated bed was delayed. I will update further when I have more info.
Estimated delay is now 10-15 days. Considering I pre-ordered in March, I'm not thrilled about this...
i think its normal for aliexpress pre order. trianglelab store delayed me a pre order of extruder a month!
Is there a chance you are willing to design a normal Z endstop?
at first, a fantastic Project and outstanding Instructions for this.
I plan to rebuild this in the Dimension of 400400500mm. But not yet.
Summertime :) even in Northern Germany.
Therefore i´ll decided to start this mid Oktober.
Maybe the Duet3 is avaliable this date , which seems to be the outstanding Board atm.
So...I spent the extra $ on the HIWIN Rails that were suppose to be "smooth as a hot knife on a butter right out of the box." But that was not my experience from the set I purchased from the AliExpress seller linked in the BOM. Out of the box, it felt just like the clone I purchased from eBay, I turn them up vertically and the HIWIN Guide Block does not glide down at all. Does anyone have suggestions to make them slide across smoother?
Have to say that i also purchased the HIWIN rails from there - no compliance here. it came well packed, lubricated and smooth as expected. I had HIWIN rails before. the rails look identical and feels the same "smooth as a hot knife on a butter" - it is . Around here one rail = 100€ the store take a day to answer but buying these bad boys saved me a pile of money.
I am 100% sure that it's a genuine Hiwin rails, Please try to clean and re-lubricate them.update: I had a chat with the store but he got no complaint about this item. additionally, no negative feedback has been left - On the contrary, all the feedback are very positive. after looking at the user profile: 0 likes, 0 shares, 0 collections, 0 following, 0 makes, 0 design. I apologize but, if this some kind of competitive war - please leave it out of the project. If not - please accept my apology and ignore what I wrote. try to lubricate them and contact the store.
I received the HIWIN rails yesterday and briefly tested them before posting my thoughts on the product here. I will clean and re-lubricate them and compare them again to the clones I purchased from eBay. Also, there's no reason for me to "complain" to the Seller, because I have had bad experiences with trying to resolve issues with AliExpress sellers in the past. Hopefully those who purchased the Original HIWIN rails from Aliexpress can chime in about their experience with them also.
Update: After seeing other users having almost the same issues and with me still having the same issue after cleaning and re-lubricating, I decided to contact the Seller. I will update this post if and when the Seller resolves the issue.
Did you apply pressure to the carriage block when moving it? Mine do not glide by themselves well but once I have a little weight mounted they glide beautifully. I have my y axis mounted with no belts and it slides with the slightest tip.
Thats true ... give a little pressure to the carriage and she run ... but I thing the printhead is not heavy enough. in my case
yes, true. after i installed them it was perfect too.
First I would like to thank you for your excellent work and the effort you put into the documentation for us makers!
I'm also new to this plattform and registered especially for your project.
I ordered the rails at Blurolls shop too and am having an issue with 1 rail (not the carriage) which prohibits that the carriage is running smooth on 1/3 of the rail. The communication with Blurolls is not good: First they told me that the rails+carriage were of the wrong type because they supposedly got "the ones for heavy duty". I then contacted Hiwin here in Germany and they told me that they do not at all offer different types of MGN12H. Now I'm in the process to get a refund and/or to exchange the faulty rail which is more complicated than I hoped and as I experienced with other dealers on Aliexpress in the past.
If you do not trust me because I'm new to thingiverse I could mail you further information if you want me to.
H, their answer is a bit odd since mgn12 has two types: H and C + 3 types of precision grade + 3 types of preloads and they have 2 types of rails too. Back then when i started to plan the BLV mgn mod (for the Anet A8) i learned about it.. (pdf + screenshot attached)
Thanks for the Info. Forgot the "H" in my first post. First I thought there is some dust or so because the issue only exists on 1/3 of the rail. But that was not the case. Seems that the dimension of the rail is at 1/3 of the rail a little bit out of the required specs which can not be seen by the naked eye and for sure only measured with professional equipment. Such things may happen and I trust that the rails and carriages are genuine Hiwin. What bothers me is the slow and complicated communication with Blurolls to solve the issue.
Thats all I wanted to say so that other people can make their own decision wether they want to save money or order by a local dealer.
I'm waiting for my rails to arrive, let's hope they are good, I will let you know either way. It could be possible these are original Hiwin which where rejected at the quality control if they have some dimmension out of tolerance...
I just received the Hiwin rails and as far as I can check them, they are original and flawless. The operation is very smooth, they are in perfect condition, oiled and well packaged. I'm quite happy with them, also thanks to Blv for the part list selection, this is a big part of making a great printer!!
unfortunately, my local Hiwin supplier offers the Hiwin rails 400mm + mgn12H for 80$, so for me 38$ for each one is a bargain.
In Germany it is even more expensive: 90,60€ / $101,87 (including VAT).
Unfortunately I am not satisfied with the HiWinS from BlueRoll.
1 Rail/Carriages Combination works perfectly, the other four work, because the Carriages does not move one millimeter
when I straighten the rail. I have a cheap China combination here, that works fine.
Bluerolls has also written to me that these are heavy-duty carriages and they want to send me new ones, the right ones.
The support was not so bad. Have responded quickly and not even trying to convince me that I have to clean and lubricate first.
I have now received a tracking number and the Carriages are supposed to be by express next week with me ... Let's see if that gets better.
If everything works then so much the better and from me kudos to the support.
How can I find out if the ones they sent me are "heavy duty" carriages? Do they look different or having different markings on them? Thanks.
There is no heavy duty variant. Hiwin is only offering the versions that are listed in Bens attachements above (Hiwin Germany confirmed this to me). So its kind of weird of what Blurolls is talking about.
I don't find any marks for this specification. but you can make a little testing:
you can push the carriage (with two fingers) a little bit and move ... in my case the carriage run, with this pressure on it, light and easy.
I bought Hiwin carriages&rails directly from Hiwin Germany in the past. So these are proofed genuine. The carriages are also not moving by their own if you hold the rail at an angle. The reason is that if it would then the carriage would be sitting too loose on the rail and vibrations can have a negative impact on the component screwed to the carriage. Instead the carriage has to run smooth on the rail without any hickups (which one of mine does not) but there should be some slight resistance when moving it.
I am 100% its authentic genuine Hiwin rails otherwise I would never have shared the link. My friend ordered two sets of them and he invited me to install theme the same day he got them. They were wrapped with Hiwin original package (exactly the same as at my local authorized supplier) with numbers engraved on the carriage and logos on the rails. All the rails were smooth as hell but we added some oil. I had to run them fast a few times before i installed them. Don't test them by gliding down vertical - its a real test (i wrote it specifically in the rails section). if your carriage glides down almost too smoothly on a vertical motion vibration could affect your print quality). the test should be done horizontally and it should move without any resistance. if you do have some resistance i would advise you to clean them a bit and re-lubricate.Update: I just had a chat with the seller about your feedback ( i sent him a screenshot because I have zero tolerance for scams) but he told me that he got no messages about a problem from any customer about the rails, additionally no negative feedback on the item. I apologize but if this is some kind of stores/sellers/competitive war please leave it out of my project. I just noticed your profile - almost nonactive profile (0 share, 0 follow, 0 likes, 0 collections, 0 makes..).
Unfortunately I have the same problems with the Hiwin rails from Blurolls: The carriages don't run smoothly along the rails but have heavy hickups. I have recorded a video showing this effect: https://youtu.be/JxpSd8auNP4
As you can see, the carriage gets stuck halfway accros the rail (and also on some other spots that are out of shot).
I already disassembled, cleaned and relubricated everything with lithium grease according to Hiwins recommendation, but that did not help either :(
Currently I'm in the process of talking to the seller to try and resolve all issues.
Hi, it looks really really good - the small "hiccups" is there because there is no load on the carriage.
Hiwin rails should be tested with a load on the carriage - only after installation. Hiwin rails are more accurate and you can feel it after installation with a load on the carriage. Unlike the cheap rails that can be really stuck right at the beginning or can have too much free movement (too much free movement is bad because then you can twist the carriage 0.5-1 mm) and you will see it on the printed object.
I noticed that you lubricated the rail - nice work :)
Alright, let's see how the rails behave when they are installed :) I hope that I can get the frame+rails assembly ready by the next weekend :)
Please keep us updated if having a load resolved your issue with the Blurolls HIWIN rail/carriages. I am still having the same issue with the 3d printed parts installed on it (it's not smooth and certain areas will get caught and cause more stiffness in the movement). I reached out to Blurolls on 4/18/19 and so far there has been no resolution to my issue. They have stated they shipped me the wrong carriages and will replace them, but I have not yet received any tracking number from them.
where you find this 12 holes Angle Brackets for 2040 t slot?
I bought those from motedis.com:
Hello, my humble opinion is the Teensy 3.2 is better alternative to the Arduino mini pro, because is 3.3v also has 3 serial port, Arduino IDE support, and the more important, probably you will have better Rx reading since you don't need the level shifter.
Another neopixel question:
The github notes talk about the Paneldue board. Is a paneldue required for this to work?
Yes, at the moment the PanelDue is required. To get the requred values for the NeoPixels, I read out the communication between the PanelDue and the Duet 3D Board. If no PanelDue is attached, then there is no serial communication.
It should be possible to do that communication with the Arduino. On the github page is the link to the open source code of the PanelDue. All needed info is located there. I just don't have the time to do the coding at the moment.
Just the PanelDue, or the PanelDue plus the LCD display? I ask because I've built the smartphone version of the printer.
This was a good question, worth to try out. I just disconnected the display from its board and the serial connection still worked. Means, yes. it is enough to have the display board.
I just updated the github page with that info. Thanks for the hint.
Thanks - I'm going to give it a shot.
I attached a photo of my working test setup.
A minor issue: I think the pins 6 and 8 in the neopixel wiring diagram are swapped.
Yes, pin6 is the left Neopixel and pin8 is the right one.
Does anyone have some tips, how to perfectly align the aluminium extrusions?
With the corner clamps(link in the BOM), I get everything else but not a 90° angle.
The Digital Protractor also seems to be unuseable to get a perfect angle. One Problem with the Protractor is to place it on the extrusions, because the extrusions didn't have a flat surface.
I've started to use a machinist 90° steel angle to assemble the parts of the frame. This seems to work, but it's very exhausting.
What's about the corner clamps which Ben set in the video of the frame assembly?
This model looks better, than those from the BOM.
try this help-tools ... I've made quickly for you. no idea if you help?
No problem, if it helps you then I have not done it in vain.
Align best you can and secure the screws, but do not tighten. Then measure from corner to corner in diagonal. Opposite dimensions should be identical. Tap lightly to shift the parts until the dimensions match. Then tighten the screws. Hope this helps.
I know you write that I have to use normal extrusions. But I got the hole frame in v slot profiles. Is there any reasonable answer that I can’t use them?
As i wrote a few times before: with V slot the 12mm linear rails will be over a 9.5~mm gap instead of a 6~5mm gap, so it doesn't leave a lot of wiggle room for adjustment. You can use it but it will be less optimal for adjustments..
The step file is in the download.
as far as I can see is in the downloads only the stl file. And in the entire step file of the printer, I did not see the big air scrubber. Only the smaller one.
could you provide the step files from big air Scrubber? Thanks in advance.
And another question: Why is there a "Y" on both belt tensioners? Should not one be an "X" on one of them? =)
My Paneldue is a 41/2 inch version. Is it possible you could remix a 41/2 inch front panel left plate?
Million thanks in advance.
I have a strange question - can anyone provide a link to the test cube being used here? I've finished building my cube, and I want to test with the same small calibration cube. Can't find it anywhere on thingiverse.
Thank you in advance,
Here you go, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:277394
Hello all, Hi Ben. I am very pleased with my new CUBE! But I'm already upgrading it. I switched to a Bondtech, direct drive setup, with a Mosquito hotend. I managed to hack the V6 mount, and print a vgroove adapter, to get the Mosquito mounted. Its working very well. I was just wondering if there was any possibility of a dedicated Mosquito mount, with the IR height sensor? I'm sure someone will make one soon. My CAD skills are pretty primative :( Thanks again for all your hard work and dedication.
I just downloaded the CAD files of the mosquito, i will try to do my best and keep you updated.
Hi Blv, were you ever able to come up with something? I too have this hot-end and a mount would be fantastic! :) Thank you for everything you have done already!!
i made something a month ago, but i saw comments requiring a fan addon so i decided to ask them for a mockup/sample just for testing, but they didn't answer yet :(
HOLY MOLY that quality is insane!
Hey. There was such a problem - I need ( we all need it :)) a m4x30 screw with a hex head in the belt tensioner, but in my city there are no such. Maybe someone already reworked on m5?
Looking at the wiring. Is there a reason these are connected in this way?
Extruder : E1stp
Heater: E1 HEAT
Thermistor: E0 TEMP
Heater2: E0 HEAT
Thermistor2: E1 TEMP
Thank you very much, on the last update I changed parts positions and forgot to update
the heaters and extruder. anyway, thanks to you I have fixed it now :)
Thanks for clarifying. btw you forgot to move the optional word.
Everyone is looking for the big sizes but I've decided to build BLV mgn Cube SE(Small Edition) :) - for Anet 220x200mm table. Most of the parts are on the way but frame is almost finished. Looks quite nice and very-very rigid.
That's going to be a little tank. Impressive!
You can post your progression on the Facebook group, i know that few members looked for this kind of build.
Thx for the fanatics design.
I’m working on reconversion from my hyper cube printer too this design.
I’m thinking on that I will use MKS 1,4 board using marlin firmware. Instead of my old ramps 1,4 board.
Any one got a great copy of the firmware from blv cube ?
Thinking ahead, is there enough room for a 400x400 bed? I will be building one in the near future and I'm just thinking ahead. Looking at the pictures there does seem to be a decent amount of room from the 300mm bed to the leadscrews and figured I would ask.
There's enough room to fit a bigger bed, but the linear rails in X and Y are only 400mm long.
Gotcha. I can always revise that in the future. Initially I'm just going to build it as designed with the 465 tall build height.
I know this has been asked before, but even after studying the 3D model, it's unclear what the Y endstop is bolted in to. Does anyone know or have a photo of this installed?
Answering my own question: It's the mirrored part Y_endstop_front_left_optional. It's just not shown in the model.
Speaking of the Y endstops... What screws attach them? Not the same M2.5 that the X endstop uses... Hmm
I used the same M2.5 screws. The attachment can be seen well in the 3D Browser viewer. The link is in the description of Ben.
The issue is that the alternate Y endstop on the other end appears to be floating in space. It's no big deal.
The screw hole sizes for these mounts are smaller than the one for the z mount. I suspect printing using a .4mm nozzle is coarse enough that it might not make a difference. For most parts I printed using a .2 nozzle to get better strength and accuracy, and I can confirm that you'd need to drill out the holes for a M2.5 screw. I ended up using some self tapping screw eyes which look odd but really lock down the switch.
Add a cable chain X Z support https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3554370
I created a little support tool to get perfect aligned rows of holes in the walls. The jig is made for M3 screws.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3552921
The end stop of the jig is created for walls with a thickness of 3 mm or more.
Great idea, that helps for perfect mounted sidewalls.
Is there experience when the 90 ° angles for 2020/2040 are omitted?
This allows the side walls to be mounted flush on the aluminum profile.
I do not want to risk the good stability of the dice.
do you think you'll add a version with a cable chain like:
I think it would look amazing!
Did anyone here order the needed extrusions from Motedis?
I ordered extrusions on the 30th march but they still haven't even shipped them yet...
Did anyone here encounter something similar with Motedis?
Juts got a message from them regarding one of my current order. Motedis say they are behind schedule, their team got a flew of epic proportions, most of them was out sick last week.
I ordered my parts at about 20th February and they arrived last weak... So 30th march is not realy long ;)
If they are done with the cutting and dont ship in the next days, you should ask them friendly in the ControllCenter.
They are too cheap to claim about some weaks for deliverment.
Hi, I have ordered from them many times. Indeed they are not always fast. Once took almost 3 weeks for manufacturing plus shipping. You can ask them in the control center of your account. In the end I'm always satisfied with their quality.
So, I understand that the European extrusions should be used- because it has a smaller gap and is more optimal than v-slot for aligning the mgn rails. However, someone offered me some V-slot extrusions, and so I was wondering if I could primarily use these to build the frame but get a few European extrusion for the extrusion with mgn rails. How feasible is this setup?
Tell me where is the end of the z axis.
Hello Ben, hello community.
I received today the plate from spring steel. Did you paint the surface black, because of the IR sensor? Or did you decide for another printing surface? Thanks.
Hi, at the beginning I have used the PEI energetic sent me with it - it worked great.
as a result of an accident (used soft acid instead of isopropanol alcohol IPA and it destroyed my PEI) - I replaced it with
a black frosted sticker for 3$ on Aliexpress - to my surprise, it works just great and the IR results even better while using it.
i will probably never going to change the flexible spring sheet - to my opinion its the best choice I have done.
The most convenient, fast and clean way to get prints off from the bed.
Dear Ben. We have powdered textured PEI sheet just like Prusa i3 mk3, here is the link:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Double-Side-Powdered-textured-PEI-Sheet-for-Prusa-i3-MK2-5-MK3-3d-printer/33002519665.html?spm=2114.search0604.8.13.216c48a16boPks
Hope this will help every one.
OK thank you for the info. Very friendly. You have helped me a lot.
UPDATE: Facebook Group
You are more than welcome to share your thoughts, build videos/photos and more at the BLV mgn Cube - Facebook group
Hello, I started a Facebook group in English if you guys what to join. It might be a quicker way of getting help.....and posting pictures of our builds....Ben I hope that's cool with you.
I already opened an official Facebook group.
It was hidden for 28 days and now it was released, you are more than invited to join it :)
Hy Ben. I was just testing the new almost ready printer,and i am used to Repetier Host and Slic3r on my other machines,do you have any special custom Gcode on the beginning of the code to use the mesh table? I cannot seem to make it work,at list i can not see the Z movement whe i am printing,and i have a bad mesh on my table.
Edit: And is there a way to compensate the skew? As i have made the calibration square and i am off by 0.9mm on a 300mm lenght of the table,at the moment i will try to play with the belt tension to see if i can compensate some more.
Sorry to bother you Ben,i found what i was looking for.At the start of the code use G29 S1 command to use the bed mesh level from the file when printing.Took a bit of reading to find the info,now i know a lot more about the G-code.
I still not been able to calibrate the machine in perfect square, i guess i will have to dismantle the X axis guide and remount it again in perfect square with the Y guides.(That's 2 days of work )
have any of you managed to build it with a smaller volume?
Has someone remixed it for a 200mm x 200mm x 200mm build volume?
I connected the 24v momentary switch to the LED strip per the wiring diagram. When I press the button, the switch and LEDs illuminate, but when I let go, they go off. Am I missing something?
use a latching switch instead of momentary switch
I am using the momentary buttons to execute commands.
One is a panic button that stops all / the other is a homing button.
If you would like to connect led, then you should choose the katching locking 12v
Presumably a 12v latching switch.
I just wanted to be sure since the BOM calls for 24v momentary.
Hi, make sure you have the latest FW config with th M80 command at the start of the config.
after that you need to hold the push button for 3 seconds and release.
I think that applies to the power switch. The LED strip is independent of the Duet board, right?
Please forgive me, i didn't noticed that you meant to the LED strip.
The led strips comes with remote control and controlled manually (notice that you need to use LM2596 and adjust it to 12V before you connect it). Maybe in the future when the Arduino code will be ready we could connect it to the Arduino and it will be controlled by the Duet.
Thanks Ben. Just making sure. :-)
I've checked against the wiring diagrams and it looks like the stepper color wires are in a different layout than your wiring diagram.
I'm having some issues with X and Y movement and I'm not sure exactly what's going on. When i move the hotend towards the back it also moves left.
When I move it right, it also moves forward.
If I move it towards the front or the left it's smooth and only 1 axis moves. The Z axis don't move at all.
I wrote a comment but Thingiverse system flagged it for moderation from some reason.
Until they will release the comment, pic and links that were in the comment attached.Link1Link2
Note: On Sunday i will make a video demonstrating how to find the Coil pairs, Homing directions and the commands direction from the guide.
@Blv @CrazyCreator Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like it was from the belt assembly. I think 1 of the washers I used in between the 2 bearings was a little too wide so the belt was riding on the washer instead of the bearing.
I resolved those movement problems but now each axis moves twice the distance it should which is strange because I used your config and all the parts suggested in the BOM. gotta love electronics.
I took the videos for demonstration, now i am editing the video (adding PIP frames) and subtitles.
Hope to publish it in the next couple of days, thanks and i apologize for the delay :)
My comment too ... Flagged for moderation and later delete :(
But with your new Pics all is clear ... But I can't wait to see a video :D
followed you wiring plan and everything came out perfect. absolutly no problems
This is very important information, I suspect that OMC-steppersonline changed the wiring with the new full D-cut version steppers.
The solution is not that complicated:
M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 goes backwards blv: its was S1
M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 goes backwards blv: its was S1
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes backwards WAS 0
I added the correct homing direction (attached pic: "homing.jpg")
and axis direction (attached pic: "stepper direction.jpg")
Please keep me updated, since i want to fix the wiring diagram according to the new wiring layout.
I also ordered the new full D-cut version steppers from OMC for testing but with your help it will be way more fast to fix it.
Thank you !
That sounds like the same Problem I wrote yesterday.
But my Posting is unanswered. My Posting with Pics, for clarify again:
Hello @Ben and everyone else,
If we connect the X and Y engine as on your plan = Picture: WiringFromBen
then we get the following error message at the first homing = Picture: ErrorMessage
If we connect it so: = Picture: NewWiringPlan
then the X and Y motors can be moved.
Unfortunately, we do not yet know in which direction the print head has to move if, e.g. Y = -20mm drive. Does he have to go back then?
I wrote a Posting yesterday, about this Problem. Your Problem sound like the same problem.
The Posting again:
Hello Ben and everyone else,
Hello, I want to congratulate you for this huge job you shared. Very conscientious work and high quality shows that the precise things animate you. Thank you for sharing.
A question: Why you do not take ballscrew for axes Z
you have uploaded the new config file for the duet.
Is the change only because of the power on function by the PSU?
Because in my planning there is no power switch. The printer should simply be connected to a WIFI socket and be able to start when switching on the socket and be switched off via the web interface + Power off. Should I use the older or the newer config file?
Yes, the update related to the PS_ON pin only and you will not be affected.
You can use the config even if you are not going to use the Power switch
Thanks Ben =)
Hi, can I use this motherboard?
Its a heic format, can you please upload a jpg or write the name of the board please?
Yes, you can use it.
notice that it will be noisy and if you will use the BOM steppers it may struggle a bit.
also, you will have to configure marlin - its not an easy task if you have never done it.
Can anyone tell me how silent is this thing? Thats one of my most important aspects (or my girlfriends) :)
currently the fans makes more noise then the steppers motors.. you can barely hear the printer.
For comparison its about 90% less noise then ender3/CR-10
Can you add to the BOM the 4 knurled nut and the 4 spring for the bed?
Thanks in advance
Good idea ... I search this too
Hi Ben.. great work.. thank you..
Do you think of using a ambient temperature and maybe a humidity sensor on the printer? it would be interesting.. what do you think?
If you search Arduino temperature and humidity sensor you will find how to build your own. I plan to add this to my printer with extra heaters to control the build chamber temperature.
Or you can buy one already made like this. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC12V-LED-Digital-Display-Dual-Outputs-Temperature-and-Humidity-Controller-XH-M452-Thermostat-Regulator-Thermometer-Hygrometer/32965086782.html?
Fully enclose, add temperature control, and a misquito hotend and we have printer capable of printing Ultem. That would be game changing.
Yes I am working towards that although with a water-cooled Chimera print head. Initially I am going to use a V6 print head to reprint all the Cube parts in ABS. Print bed is 500W AC, will also add 2 250W chamber heaters to control internal temperature.
I have chosen a water-cooled hot end as air-cooled hotends can't cool sufficiently at 80 degree plus chamber temps.
i will love to see how do you set up your bed. i'm worry if 310x310 x 4mm or even 5mm aluminum bed its to heavy, are you use a thermal fuse/switch?
My bed is 310 X 310 X 4, I think you might be underestimating how much power the stepper motors can deliver. Some things I plan to make will be close to 2 KG so the weight of the bed is only a fraction of that. However, I have considered adding 2 more lead screws and moving them to the corners of the bed frame and driving them with belts. This will allow a change in ratio to say 1 to 5 also but the main reason I have considered this is if the bed has any play it is going to be amplified printing very tall items.
As Solid State Relays can fail in the on state it needs protection. I am waiting for 155 degree thermal fuses to arrive, another thing I have not done also is add an earth wire to the bed for my own safety. As the bed is electrically isolated if the silicone heater pad AC voltage did connect to the bed it could be live and without an earth it would not shut off.
Hello Gary i order one week ago one ac 750w silicone heater 310x310, now I'm looking for the aluminum sheet , also i will try (i don't knows how to do it yet, but any suggestion are welcome) 3 z, i like the idea to have a true level bed , thanks to you i will looking for a 4mm more confident
thank you sou much for share
I got an offcut piece of 4MM Aluminium from the local scrap metal dealer. However, I had to spend quite a bit of time straightening it, if I could get a piece of cast tooling plate at the right price I would buy that instead.
I can't open the SWG file of the panels, from fusion it remains empty, from illustrator it says error in the file you can check the file and redo Upload
thanks or have a vector version for cutting thanks again
Hi, the DWG contains more components and need to be opened with fusion360. I just asked a friend of mine to check it with his account.
He used Fusion360 without a problem, he also was able to use Autodesk online viewer and it worked just fine (screenshot attached). Usually fusion it will not open the file with a double click. you should first upload the file to your file account (upload button), then you can open it from the files list in your account.