TLDR: This is a playable sized Trollskull manor from the DnD campaign Waterdeep: Dragon Heist. Print one of everything, add some glue and magnets and you're good to go!
1) Initial update contained the wrong TSM_0_a file, if you downloaded the old one, a new one has been uploaded. The new version however had an alignment issue with the magnet holes, you can either do what I did - use a drill to make new holes - or download the v2 version with the correct alignment.
2) Somehow the TSM_3_b file was not correct - A magnet hole had a protrusion. I couldn't locate the correct file. I couldn't adequately fix the newly generated version with netfabb or meshmixer and therefore used makeprintable to produce a fixed version "TSM_3_b_2.obj" - It looks ok but is untested (the "raw" unfixed version had geometry issues and was previously uploaded but has since been removed for simplicity reasons).
3) The TSM_4_b_2 file had a chimney that was 4 mm too short to connect with the magnet from the floor above. If you've printed the TSM_4_b_2.stl that was initially uploaded you can download the TSM_4_b_2_Chimney-fix and glue it on top of the chimney, note that there is a hole straight through this shim as a floor could've caused the magnet to protrude. If you haven't printed it yet, just use the TSM_4_b_2_fixed.stl file!
Print one of everything (you can choose to only print one roof though - you have two alternatives - alt 1 and 2)
All parts should be printable without supports, I printed at .2 mm which looks great but would sometimes need sanding for magnet fittings.
In order to avoid warping - prints take up almost the whole print bed area - I used a brim. Some (most? all?) parts containing floors with walls needing to be glued on to them (see post-printing) have a one layer gap in the bottom for the walls - With a brim this becomes a marking to show how walls attach! Without a brim you might need to add supports touching build table or something? So why not use brims?
However Some parts really do take up all of the space of a standard ender 3 - Be sure to change brim settings accordingly - There might be individual pieces where you can only add a mm or so.
Some of the bigger pieces require rotation to fit on an ender 3 - Note that all of these have been printed on a standard ender 3 so if something doesn't fit you need to adjust your settings! The PROJECT_LEVEL_SECTION_2 parts (see naming below) can rotated upside down in order to reduce bridging.
Note These prints take lots and lots of time, the final product weighs a couple of kilos, so be ready to waste some filament :)
In addition to the files in this print, I printed the OpenForge Trap Door for the bar section, just scale it to fit! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1683159
Naming / What to print
Print one of everything.
The naming is PROJECT_LEVEL_SECTION_PART.
Project: Project is of course TSM (Trollskull Manor)
Levels: Basement level is 0, ground floor is 1, etc.
Section: Divided into a left and right part, labeled A or B.
Part: Divided into a bottom part (1) and a top part (2). There's one part labeled "3" that's the top roof.
Glue together the different PARTS of the same section, e.g. TSM_2_a_1 (bottom) and TSM_2_a_2 (top). (NOTE: The TSM_1 sections do not have two parts as that level attaches directly on top of the basement)
As the TSM_2_a_1 contain the upper halves of the walls of the TSM_1_a, it can be challenging to line them up correctly - After some trial and error my suggestion is to secure any walls (TSM___1) to the walls below them using masking tape, adding glue to the top of them and then lining up the corresponding TSM___2 part. NOTE however that the sizes of the parts might not be the same but rather the TSM___1 corresponds to the level below!
This sounds complicated, it's not entirely uncomplicated, but it's not THAT complicated when you get into it.
Whereas parts stick together with glue - Everything else (sections and levels) stick together using magnets.
All parts come with holes for 8x3 mm magnets (slightly smaller / thinner is fine, and might even be preferable as they will probably be easier to hide).
Take note of polarity when adding magnets, if added correctly there will be only one orientation that any part can be attached and will sort of snap into place when it comes close enough!
Tolerances might be a bit tight in places and you will probably need to sand down parts if printing at a reasonable speed and detail level
Not my expertise but primed with a gray coat, then a stone spray on the outside.
Then just mixed water based colours and then a black wash. Added a protective coat and then some standard moss, grass and vines that I got from a local Warhammer place.
Slice and dice
This was a very (VERY) long project that just got out of hand...
After seeing the model made by Wootai I just wanted to print that at a playable size on my Ender 3, but the model was way too big to print on that print bed, so I decided to slice up the model, instead of slicing it down the middle I tried slicing at "logical seams" in the architecture (using meshmixer).
I realised that I'd need to put everything together and decided on using magnets (as I like the snapping feeling and have had a hard time with some of the lock mechanisms out there).
When adding magnet holes I realised that the model, even if really nice when smaller, would look kinda boring without any details added...
Also, somewhere along the process I got a tip that a playable sized building is actually really hard to play in, due to the walls covering too much of the area, so that led to the walls being split at roughly half height (so you can still see balconies and windows etc).
Down the rabbit hole I went...
I started modding and adding textures and models from thingiverse (listed as sources).
Not in the sources due to licensing is this fantastic model from Hayland Terrain http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2261236 that they graciously let me use here - Check out their stuff at haylandterrain.com!
(I might have missed something though as this spanned several months and I didn't save everything as I wasn't sure I was going to release it... Not my intention - If you find something not listed I'll rectify that!).