This is a LED light similar to a Nanoleaf with one big upgrade: MAGNETS
the design is meant to not need much filament and a set of 8 with the controller case should be less than 500g of PLA
Don't like this design? The CAD files are attached so you can fix it however you see fit.
The outer wall of the tile body requires single wall extrusions to be enabled in your slicer.
- WS2812B Addressable LED strip. Order 144 LEDs per meter, white PCB, IP30 or lower.
- "SP108E WiFi" However, any addressable led controller should work.
- 8mm x 3mm Neodymium magnets. Any 8mm diameter magnets up to 5mm thick will work.
- Tile Connectors:
- Standard 1x40 2.54mm pitch breakable pin headers, male and female. Search "breakable pin header"
- Power Connectors:
- Male USB A connectors that can be soldered to. Searching "USB DIY" should bring up what you are looking for.
- Internal Wire:
- 3 conductor copper wire. Easy to find as "servo wire" or "3 pin wire" avoid the twisted wire, it is annoying to work with for this project.
- 1 conductor wire of the same size as a single strand of the 3 conductor wire.
- Power Wire:
- 2 conductor copper wire. May be tricky to find in white, you can sleeve 2 strands of appropriately sized wire in white paracord to match the tiles.
Parts Per Tile
- 1 Printed body
- 1 Printed Lid
- 9 LEDs
- 6 Magnets
- ~35cm of the 3 conductor wire
- ~15cm of the 1 conductor wire
- 3 Male header pins
- 8 Female header pins
- Hot glue
Parts for Controller
- 1 Printed body
- 1 Printed lid
- 1 LED controller
- 2 magnets
- ~15cm of the 3 conductor wire
- Xcm of the 2 conductor wire (whatever length you choose)
- Hot Glue
- 2 USB connectors
- Insert a magnet into each hole in the side of the tile. Alternate the polaraties of the magnets on each side so they can be connected in any orientation. (For Example: When looking at each outer face of the body, put the magnet in the left hole with the south pole facing out and the magnet in the right hole with the north facing out)
- Cut a section of 3 male header pins
- Remove every 4th pin from the female header. Cut where the 4th pin was. Trim the excess plastic so the group of 3 pins is square. 2 groups of 3 pins are required
- Insert each group of pins into their corresponding slot
- Cut 3 sections of 3 LEDs from the strip
- Solder a length of 3 conductor wire onto each side of a section of 3 LEDs.
- Remove the paper from the adhesive back of the strip and slide it into position, guiding the wires behind the clips as you do so.
- Note the LEDs are directional. Trim the wires going to the input of the LEDs so they are the correct length to be soldered to the male pins.
- Solder the ground wire to the right pin, signal to the center pin, and power to the left pin of the male header
- Trim the wires going to the next corner of the tile so they align to be soldered to the next group of LEDs.
- Strip a portion of insulation away from the power and ground wires where they pass over the female pins. Solder ground to the left pin and power to the right pin. (Check to make sure this is the opposite of the male header)
- Solder the ends of the wires going from the previous LEDs onto the input of the next group of 3 LEDs.
- Repeat the previous 2 steps with the next group of LEDs.
- Solder the end of the 3 conductor wire to the input of the last group of LEDs.
- On the output of the last group, Solder a piece of single conductor wire to the center pin of the output.
- Solder the single wire to the center pin of both female headers.
- Secure the headers by covering them in hot glue after testing the LEDs.
- Press the lid onto the body
- Controller Assembly:
- Insert magnets into the 2 holes in the side of the body.
- Cut a section of 3 male header pins.
- Insert the pins into their slot and solder a length of 3 conductor wire to the pins. (Make sure the wire is soldered to the male pins in the same order as the male pins in the tile.)
- Remove the controller from the housing it came in and press it into the rectangular cutout.
- Solder power, signal, and ground to the corresponding outputs of the controller.
- Solder power and ground to 2 USB connectors
- Solder the power and ground from the USB connectors to the input of the controller
- Press the lid onto the Body
- The assembly instructions are not set in stone, it is just the way I chose to wire the lights. The important thing to remember is that the LEDs must have the signal wire sequentially connecting each group of 3 to the next so the controller can address each individual LED, but the power can be wired independent of the order of the LEDs. For a large number of tiles, power can be input anywhere there is an empty header to prevent LEDs at the end of the chain from becoming dim.
- 2 USB connectors are required because when set to white, 8 tiles exceeds 2A of current.