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napfkuchen

ENDER 3 / CR-10 Direct Extrusion Mount

by napfkuchen Jan 20, 2019
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Hi, would I be able to get the f3d file of the design with the stock extruder? I would love to design a fang specifically for this direct-drive design :)

Love this design. Brilliantly simple and perfect for the job. I love that someone has actually given it some thought and designed something that you can use your existing layer cooler with. Good job!

Has anyone tried this on the E3D hotend?

Easy to print and works perfectly with Ender 3
Thank you very much.

Do you need to extend the wires for the extruder stepper?

Yes - I have used these cables

UEETEK 4 pieces 1M stepper motor cable lead wire HX2.54 4-pole to 6-pole
from Gaporgira
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B073VK7QPC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_tD-vDb1RJDEH8

!!! But you have to swap the two middle cables at one end, otherwise the extruder motor won't work. !!!

Could you post the step files?

Will this work with E3D v6 clone and extruder as on picture with stock fans (ender3) ?

How are you going to mount the v6? If the v6 mount places the hotend exactly where the stock hotend is in x/y directions you should be fine (if the mount doesn't collide with my mount) otherwise you'll get alignment issues

Well this is exactly my question :) ?

The one for the Bondtech extruder someone already tested please ?

TLDR: I am extremely pleased with the result.

Upgraded hotend on my Ender 3 with your design.

Bullseye turned out to be pretty much fully compatible with a new extruder mount, except that little wire guide on top. I've just snapped it off, but probably better solution would have been cutting a little slot for it in the mount. Still no issues though.

I had a lot of problems with extrusion before, partly because of significant wear in a plastic feeder arm, partly because of a bowden setup itself. Now underextrusion is practically nonexistent and I was able to lower my retraction from 6 to 1.5mm and my temperature back to normal 190 degrees. Couldn't print on lower than 220 degrees before.

Another thing that I had to replace was the spool mount. The gear that feeds filament into the hot end kept slowly winding it in one direction during printing for some reason. I had to rotate the spool 90 degrees, so its axis would have been parallel to the stepper motor. Used a remix of this one (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1409186), but had to modify it a little.

I've found that the best way to dampen increased inertia was to place my printer on very soft legs. I used inch high pieces of packing foam. Impact on quality was really noticable. Though I have also lowered acceleration to 300mm/s^2 and jerk to 10mm/s in Cura settings. Just to be save. Probably not really neccessary.

Spool Roller for Folger Tech 2020 i3

So far loving install retraction set to 1mm (still tuning)and im happy to so say everything lined up i have boden tube installed and to my surprise extruder butted up to hotend so no tube exposed going to play with speed settings to see what she can do but working great smooth so far. This is a Creality Ender 3
https://youtu.be/4EBz1SVSG3Y

Comments deleted.

does anyone have recommend retraction settings after using this modification?

I'd start tuning from 2mm. You'll most likely tune it down from there but that depends on a lot of individual factors.

A very elegant solution, thanks for checking out my project as well on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328971
At the moment I am working on stabilizing the platform and extending the screw mounts as per another user's suggestion, I really like what you've done here and it seems you attach the unit to the rear of the gantry mount with more stability, whereas mine sits on the front. You shouldn't have any issues mounting a Petsfang to this because the mount points wont interfere with the unit.

Once I finish with mine I'd love to give you a hand on your project, I found shrouding the motor actually helped with noise.

Ender 3 Direct Extruder

I really like how easy your design is going to be to mount. Mounting still requires quite a bit if fiddling around with the carriage which I really hate to do on all the iterations I do. But I guess that's the price I got to pay for always having compatibility in mind.

I figured that rigidity is actually not that problematic once you have two fixed points and got your hear around treating the PTFE tube as the third mounting point. So I wouldn't expect stability to be an issue for yours either.

EDIT: Protip: Use a shorter screw for the right wheel and turn it around so the nut sits on the mounting plate side. It will be a lot easier to remove the extruder mount without having to touch the fang at all. Really helped me not wanting to kill myself for every new iteration I tested. (If the spacing between your mount and the hotend bowden fitting allows for it, hard to judge that from the pictures)

Thanks for your Thingi!

I made the Stock Direct Extrusion. Everything line up beautifully and worked. Normal Stepper 40-34.
Came out great for a total noob like me.

I would also like to try and replace the 42-stepper with a pancake stepper for both Stock Direct and Titan Angled version.

I just have to dial in my retraction setting etc.

I would like to mount my 42-34 Stepper with the connector facing downwards but it bumps against the 45deg wall.
It looks like I will have the same problem with a pancake stepper on the Stock and Titan Angled bracket.

Would it be possible to get cutouts inserted for the Stepper connector? Regular and Pancake?
It would allow a few more mounting options to make the wiring look neater.

Thanks again for all your hard work and ingenuity.
PS: This works with the Hero Gen2 with a Single 5015 fan and BLTouch., which is in my pic.
You just have to assemble everything using fuzzy logic.

I really hope to get an update out this weekend for the bondtech Bmg and will have a look at cutouts for the motor connectors. Thanks for sharing your make!

Hi,

Does anyone knows if this mount would be compatible with the Petsfang v2?

I haven't posted a make yet, but this stock extruder mount actually fits perfectly on the Petfang Bondtech BMG direct drive version. I ordered a BMG kit anyways but at least I can keep this mount on hold me over.

Sorry for the late reply, didn't test it but I suspect it does not.

Sorry, change in plans. I'm a little fed up with the stock extruder. I want to use linear advance and I need a little more push. I ordered a Bondtech, and will go with a petsfang duct and mount assembly.

I'm also hoping to get a bondtech bmg version of this mount out today. Just in case you want to keep your old duct.

I just finished testing someone else's version of the stock extruder bracket that was so awful I'll have to convert back to bowden just to try yours! I'll let you know how it works.

I would be curious to hear about your experience

Starting this tonight. I'm going in blind but I'm really guessing I'll need some sort of extension for the cable on my stepper motor... which I'll have to make out of whatever I find around the house. I'll throw you some info on reddit(ImKindaHighBut) and here as I go along. Good stuff this is, sir!

At least for testing my cables are just long enough as long as you don't go to max Z. For a final installation a bit longer cables would be nice.

You'll need extension cables for the stepper and a top mount spool holder. When I did my direct drive conversion I just printed out some T-nuts that take an M3 nut inside and used the original arm and thumbscrews, just put the arm up on the top crossmember, works fine.

I'm using an alternate anyway. I can just back my spool holder up to the middle of the rack and let the line go straight down. The mount printed fine, I'm just printing a stock cooler Bltouch mount for the time being as my old cooler won't fit... too tall. I'll give you all some details tomorrow afternoon when I'm good and done. Guess the only difference I'll have to make in my Slicer is I'll have to recalibrate Linear Advance and my retraction.

So your spool holder didn't come with T-Nuts? Mine did and I just turned it around so that the spool faces the front rather then the back.