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Customizable Rugged Waterproof Box

by zx82net Jan 6, 2019
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wow! looks great! parametric is with openscad?

It's Fusion 360 only.

which o-ring can i use on standard box if i don't print the tpu one?

You'll probably need to get a large one and cut it down to length yourself. You'll want to get the softest o-ring material you can, I'd suggest silicone. You can buy o-ring kits on Amazon.

Some real great design. Thanks for this thing. Installed the hinges the wrong way round, checked for interference and decided i like the look that way. Awesome very awesome.

It works with the hinges either way around. However, when mounted the suggested way around, the slight interference with the body forces the top and the bottom to line up automatically when you close the lid, improving the usability a bit.

Hi zx28net would you be able to resize this for me? I'm wanting to use it as a case for a power bank but need it to accomodate a 6S 5000mah lipo. The dims of the lipo are H: 60mm - L: 180mm - D: 60mm so would need these dims internally to fit. Are you able to do this?

You can resize in the slicer.

I wouldn't really recommend that, the holes will no longer fit the M3 bolts, and you'll have to either drill out the holes, or use different sized hardware.

If you install Fusion 360 you can do that by just changing the length width and height parameters in the files.

You have a great design here. I was able to reduce the size using XYZ Maker, Used two tops and vinyl tube for seal. There are a lot of options and uses for your box, I'm going to have some fun trying other mods. Thanks
Check out my make and let me know what you think.

Thanks! I hope you have good fun with it.

Hi, while searching the net for small waterproof box, I found yours. I bought a 3D Printer and printed a couple (with a bit of a learning curve, being new to 3D Printing). I am having trouble printing the seal in TPU with my Ender 3 Pro. I see where TPU can be a bit temperamental and was wondering if you could share your settings for nozzle temp, bed temp, and speed? Also any tips/suggestions? Thank you for sharing your work!!

Ok, something went wrong here - not that it would be hard to fix, but I'd like to understand it:

  • I downloaded the "standard without seal" box from 14.03.
  • double clicked to open the "path" sketch and increased the length to 200, width to 100
  • Fusion started grinding for a bit (slow PC here), then came up with a new box. Looked fine, except for a large rectangular hole in the middle of both top and bottom: https://i.imgur.com/yLC9R30.jpg

I could imagine that this hole is an effect of keeping the hinges correctly positioned, but I'm not convinced that I didn't do something wrong here - which one is it?

Hi Ashnak,
It's not the hinges that are causing this, it's the way the base is made at the same time as the walls, by sweeping the cross section along the path. The base plush of the cross section has to be short enough not to overlap in the middle, but if it's too short it will leave a gap, as you found. The easy solution is to extrude a rectangle to fill the gap.

It would be possible to fix this parametrically, by using more complex expressions, rather than simply using the parameter as a dimension. (I explored that a bit in my customizable picatinny rail thing, where you can specify the hole spacing as a number of units, my solution was still a little bit crude, and I can think of better ways to solve it, with hindsight.) The parametric functions in Fusion 360 are powerful, but it is easy to screw things up. I think sometimes the best thing to do is to use the parameters to get 90% of the way there, and then fix things by hand.

The most frustrating thing is that it seems difficult to "re-parameterize" a design once you've already done it, because it won't recover properly from broken links. It would be good to be able to turn off parametric updates, edit all the expressions, and then turn updates on again. Unfortunately, I don't think there is a way to do that.

Thanks - that explains it. I'm still new to this and just glad I'm not doing anything obviously wrong.

Actually I just re-read your original post and realized you are not editing it in the correct way. The problem you hit is fixed for most circumstances, if you use the parameters to make the changes. It can still be broken by extreme ratios between the side lengths, or by setting the length too short.

Instead of editing the sketch, open the "modify" menu, click "Parameters" (right at the bottom), and then change the values in there. That updates the Path sketch and the cross section sketch at the same time. Notice the dimensions in the sketch are shown as "fx: #", the "fx:" tells you it is being generated from a parameter.

If you break something with parameters, it is important to use "undo", rather than just changing the value back, because that will leave a broken link somewhere.

Thank you for your patience - and the short Fusion 360 tutorial. Now it looks like it works as it should.

Its like Bosh's boxex

I love this design, however the hinge screw holes are weak. I can screw an M3 through there, but it is tight and it separates the hinge at the thinnest part of the screw holes. Unless my printer just hates printing holes... or my layers are not just not adhering properly

I uploaded a new version yesterday, which doubles the thickness in this area, which should make it significantly easier to print reliably!

Please check, the customization. The hinges are doing crazy things in the new model when modifying sizes.
More than Lenght, width and heigh is any other variable to change?
Thanks again!
Going for the 3rd box

Which version of the .f3d file, are you modifying, and to what values? If you use the low height one and increase the height, all the fillets will break and funny things will happen. Post a screen shot if possible.

OK, I looked into it. I can break it if I reduce the height of the box, but not by making it larger in any axis.

What is happening is this, if you reduce the height parameter for the box, it looses the link to the lugs in the mirror operations, and the thing breaks. The things that suck is if you make the value larger again it doesn't restore them. So you have to hit undo rather than just change the value back. I won't call this a bug in Fusion, but it is certainly not the behavior I would expect.

Does this match what you are seeing?

I don't have time to investigate this any further at the moment, but I'll add the old f3d files back in. However, you'll still need to mess with the design if you want to go much smaller than the default heights. Take a look at my Small Parts Storage Box, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384017) , that reduces the box height basically by cutting the top off, and not changing the lugs. That is the easiest route to take if you want to mod it for a low top.

Small Parts Storage Box
by zx82net

I like your small part storage! thanks for your time! I will upload the pics once finished.
Do you have customizable O-Rings?

I've added a f3d file for customizing the o-ring. Sorry for the delay.

Thanks! you are great.... Ive made 4 boxes so far for my underwater photography gear.

That's great to hear! Can you post photos?

Great design. Already printed. I only need M3 screws....I will post it later once finished.

A hubble suggest.
I would Put the O-ring in the base not in the top, drops goes down. is better that they find a rubber than a plastic pushing up the rubber.

I know its customizable, (I will learn that some day) I would prefer a deeper base and a shallower top, So it´ll be easier if it is quite full.
Very useful! It´s hard to find interesting things to print, specially for a Non Star Wars or nerdie
printer as I am

I highly recommend installing Fusion 360. If you do, you literally only have to change one number to increase the depth to whatever you want.

Regarding placing the o-ring in top or bottom: In many rugged cases, o-rings are put in the top half, to reduce the chance of dirt collecting in the groove. If sand or grit gets caught in the o-ring it can prevent a seal, or even damage the o-ring, when the case is closed.

Thanks! I will do!

Fun idea! I humbly suggest adding a variant that's pre-sized for use as a filament spool dry box.

3d printing is inherently not waterproof so i suggest something like an xtc coating. good design though

This is not entirely true. 5 or more outer walls, layer thickness no more than 1/3 of the nozzle diameter, and everything will be fine :) To be sure, the surface can be additionally treated with a solvent.

another awesome design (ive printed a handful of your v1 rugged box)! both clasp mechanisms are top notch and work great! the only thing i would change is to beef up the thin section holding the m3 screws in place. Its probably strong enough if printed with a good filament on a well tuned printer, but for me the hinge screws broke from the force of the clasps holding the box closed (3 walls, .6 nozzle, 35% cubic infil, esun pla+). being a waterproof box, it would be ideal if that piece were many times stronger than it probably needs to be. the rest of the box however would probably survive a plane crash lol

Thanks for the feedback. Can you send a photo of the broken part, so I can work out how best to make it stronger?

Nice work! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the comment, glad you like it. If you print it please post your make!