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Ender 3 Direct Extruder

by TorontoJohn Jan 2, 2019
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Does this work with stock/micro swiss hotend with petsfang?

It does work with the stock hotend, as that's my own setup.
I am using a Petsfang Tornado (with part of the left mount cut to offer a little extra clearence, again check out the pics.)

Yea I see it works with the bullseye cooling system the question I was asking does it work with the petsfang cooling the one with dual 5015 blower fans?

Oh I see, unfortunately I haven't tested the dual setup

Is there a reason the 'grooves' on the buttom aren't full holes? This led to keeping it on straight while mounting difficult. After a while, I also noticed my print had started getting squished under the screws which ended up having my whole gantry on crooked since the screws were going in crooked further in on the bottom, leaving the wheels uneven. This is my favorite design so far, just wanted to figure this issue out. I'd think having regular screw holes would mitigate this problem in the future.

Not a bad idea, though the left groove needs to stay because this is designed around the Petsfang cooler, if I extend the left support it will interfere with the cooler mount. Although I could probably extend the right mount to be a full drop and have the screw fully support it. This could be a good solution. I could possibly extend the left side, though not too far (3mm by my measurements right now.) Yes, getting the gantry wheels straight can be a pain, I went through this as well and it takes some tweaking. I'll have to take a look tomorrow and see how far I can get that drop to move. Have you had any issues with your filament going straight through the feeder to the hot-end? I find sometimes it gets caught as the line isn't completely straight (a minor inconvenience without any resistance on the feeder, but something that I may be able to fix.)

Thanks for the heads up, I had to take a break from the project but I can probably implement those ideas this week.

Ah, I'm rocking the Hero Me duct, so I have just enough clearance for both sides being a full hole. I tried messing with the stl in blender, though I forgot how thick the screws were and ended up with the hole being too small. But I managed to drill that out enough to get the screws through without breaking it. I was desperate for a new mount so I had to apply a one-time fix to the crooked gantry that allowed me to print it haha. (I wedged an allen-key with matching thickness under the screwhead to straighten it out)

I've also tried out this design, though I wasn't a fan of the direction the stepper motor was facing. But the way it's mounted to replace the aluminum spacers on the other side of the gantry could be a solution worth exploring with this design.


Or perhaps even a combination of the two sides could provide the best stability, as even with my dirty fix, I'm noticing the whole mount moving up and down slightly from quick retractions during prints.

Ender 3 - Direct Drive Adapter

Also make sure that small portion of bowden tube isn't actually pushing up on the support, if it's too long it will prevent the whole thing from sitting flush on the gantry (I had that issue) and it pushes it up and away from the right screw too.

Weird direction on that feeder, but check this out: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3369418/ he also has the supports on the rear of the gantry and I think that's the way to go. Once I correct mine I'll probably end up printing that one. It's basically the same design as mine but without the support issue. Yours shouldn't be moving up and down and that will cause under feeding. It should actually be pretty solid, maybe you need to tighten it more? Definitely have a look at the link i posted, that's the solution to all these problems.

ENDER 3 / CR-10 Direct Extrusion Mount

So I ended up combining the two designs quickly Frankenstein-style with small tweaks, you could try it out if you want. I Printed it with PETG this time and got some ghosting which is unusual for me (Though I am printing at 100-120mm/s). I should have orientated it the front facing up but I think it'll be quite solid once I get around to installing it.

Do you want the source file? I can get you the 3dsmax scene.

Nah, I think I achieved what I needed already with the stl. Thanks though, I guess I'll post a remix once I install it and see how it works this weekend. I also like to cover the motor up because I have my printer in my bedroom, so I aim to have my printer as sleek and quiet as possible. I was worried about the temperature because my motor got extremely hot to the touch, but that may be because I'm not using the stock extruder stepper, but a spare 42-34mm stepper thinking having less weight would help longevity.

My next experiment would be to see if I could use the stock extruder I have sitting around for a second extruder bowden style, once my gen l board arrives. I'd want to make a taller version of this design and then maybe find or make a straight version of this to fit right under the dd path: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1909725

As for the PETG I'm using, it can handle higher speeds pretty well though obviously not as much as PLA. I just have to make sure to run the bed really hot like 110C to make sure it sticks properly and the nozzle at it's limit at 240C and a bit further from the bed than PLA so it doesn't squish at all.

Dual Filament Y Adapter
by BSkorn

Glad you got it working, you may want to check what voltage the board is sending to that motor, mine was way under on the Z axis so I don't trust Creality to get it right every time. It could be why you're getting a little warm on the feeder, but these motors can take a real beating and it takes a lot to kill them. Maybe leave that alone until the new board comes in.

I checked out that project a while ago and I like the idea of the split Bowden, what I would do is actually run the motors side by side with the Bowden tubes running down the centre from them. Ideally you want them to have the exact same length of Bowden tube (less chance of under/over extrusion because of the length of the run.) Setup the motors on the top connecting beam of the Ender, otherwise that's a lot of weight for the gantry (you can tell I considered the mod, but I rather put the money into another project i'm working on).

I was actually thinking of having only one bowden. The idea being to keep this mount, or if needed, make a version that would allow me to mount the direct extruder that would allow me to insert a split so that instead of a 'Y' Splitter, the path from the direct extruder would be straight, but it would branch out between the direct extruder and hotend to allow for a bowden tube feeding from the top of the frame to fit. This would provide the benefit of dual extrusion, and the pros of both systems without the extra weight on the gantry. Of course, this is all theoretical at this point. I've heard that it's been done before but I haven't been able to find anyone who actually did it.

Ah yea, I had that one in a collection, opted to print your design for the aesthetic. I'm into having a nice cover for the stepper motor, though it may not be good for it temperature-wise. As for the wobble, it's extremely subtle as I only noticed it after a while (it's way less movement compared to how the coupler from the extruder compresses without a clip). I've only noticed minor under extrusion in the infill, but I'm also printing PETG for the first time, and at pretty fast speeds working out linear advance. So I can't exactly blame the new mount just yet, and I really don't want to disassemble my whole gantry again for another week or two at least if I can help it lol.

It gets annoying disassembling the gantry, that's why I took a break from this project. PETG is pretty sensitive to speed and temp, I actually do mine at 40 mm/s with no cooling - I attached a few settings, have a look at the pic.

I avoid PETG because it drives me nuts and I've never gotten it completely to where I want it. I like your design, put it up as a remix on the other guy's project. I added the cover to the stepper motor to cover up a little bit of the noise, plus I didn't like the look of the motor (my printers are out in the open close to the living room.) Don't worry about the temperature, I've done 3 day long prints (Deadpool bust) and had no issues, it doesn't get that hot at all unlike the Z motor, etc.

This looks great, I've added it to my to-do list and I like that it works with the bullseye mod but stock everything else. How do you get the PTFE tubing and couplings all together though? I'm assuming you use an inch or 2 of PTFE tubing to run through the length of the hot end, but since there's so little room between the 2 couplings how do you actually actually get it set up (assemble it), hope that makes sense. Do you find that the extra weight on the nozzle assembly causing any issues? Thanks!

Do me a favor and let me know how tight the fit is on the gantry mount, I had to take a file to mine, I think the original designer used some really tight tolerances and my printer is off by a couple of mm's. I may reprint.

Awesome, thanks for the info! I certainly will reply but don't be discouraged if it's not for a while. Got lots of stuff in my print queue before trying this but I'll let ya know if/when I get around to it! :D

Well, you need about 1" of tube between the couplers, get the feeder all setup and screwed into the mount. Then install the hose on the hotend side. As you insert the mount with the motor/feeder into the gantry insert the hose into the other end.

Clear as mud right? Remember that the hose only moves one way into the hotend coupler. Watch this before messing about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pn5g8Qf4h8o

PS: I'm 24 hours into a 48 hour print at the moment, no issues so far and it has been about one month. I like the setup because I don't get a large strand of filament stuck between the couplers when the spools run out, etc.