The mousers are one of my favorite robots from my childhood, these little robotic chompers have been on my list to model for a while, I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
Designed in 1/6th scale,
The Mousers (M.obile O.ffensive U.nderground S.earch E.xcavation & R.etrieval S.entries), are small, bipedal robots designed and built by Baxter Stockman. Which were antagonist of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles in various iterations of the show and comics.
I have included a closed mouth option.
There is now an option for Print-In-Place style Articulated Legs, the Legs print standing with no support. and once the joints are freed allow a range of positions.
I cleaned up and and optimized the closed mouth version to print with more visible lines in the mouth eyes and ears.
This model is based off of the Mondo 1/6th scale collectible toy. and should not be sold or purchased.
https://youtu.be/3vXezQGXHmE Great video detailing a make from "Dream it Model it" check out his amazing channel where he has a lot of great designs and details his full process in videos and provides the end result for free. https://www.thingiverse.com/Dream_it_Model_it/about
There are two leg options, Articulated and Non-Articulated. If you can't get the articulated legs to turn out right on your machine or may prefer a more static model the non-articulated legs are the way to go.
The articulated legs should be printed without support, make sure you do not over-squish your first layer, and your retractions are well tuned or it may fuse parts together. Free the joints by bending (some may take a little bit of force depending).
I tested these legs a lot to try to get them right for the average user, having printed these across 4 very different printers (Trinus, MatterMod T, Folgerteh FT5 and RepRap I3) to verify that things would work right for everyone (hopefully). The clearance is somewhat in the mid-range (not supper tight) so The more precise your printer the smoother the joints will work, I did this with PLA and at .2mm height as I consider that common practices for most users but I welcome more feedback of different machines and settings. So please comment and post your results.
The rest of the models are designed to print with support "touching build plate" and do not need "support everywhere" Depending on your printer and cooling of course.
Files "should" load pre-oriented for best results with strong pegs, minimal support and rough areas hidden on back side, however depending on your slicer, some programs may rotate the files by swapping z and y so look at the examples above in "thing view" to get an idea of how best to position them on your print bed
The thigh pegs are meant to be a snug but secure fit, I have tried on a few printers now and things friction fit well without spending any time sanding pegs after removing support (designed with about .4 mm clearance) if you have trouble getting things to fit you can scale up the body a little to improve the fit.
Scanned using the Einscan SP, then altered, enhanced, and optimized in Meshmixer, and Tinkedcad
I can not take full credit for this design as it is heavily based off of the beautiful Mondo Figure, if you want to skip the print and own a high quality Mouser buy the Mondo figure.