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Jewelry Box with dividers

by TheGreatMrBill Dec 22, 2018
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I printed one and was very impressed with the end results. Thanks to the designer who created this and shared it with the community. I ran into a few issues and can share a few tips that may help others.

I tried putting the velvet around the floor panel using hot glue but it was not working out. I instead put a thin cardboard cutout and gauze cloth as padding on one side. Put the velvet over it with one slit and used a paper stapler to staple the velvet. This made it very easy to put the velvet on without any creases. The trick is to have enough padding on the top of the floor panel so that the stapled pins don't come out through the padding.

I also put a bunch of steel bolts in folds under the floor panel and stapled the fabric around them to keep them in place. This adds weight to the box without wasting wood PLA.

I used 220 grit sandpaper to sand it.

I used mission oak stain and clear satin water based polyurethane coating to finish it.

For the name plate I used 3D Builder that comes with MS Windows to edit the STL and emboss the name.

One issue I ran into was printing the heart frame. It failed at 95%. In Cura I pushed the model under the bed to the point where I wanted to resume printing from and sliced. The resulting gcode starts printing from the layer that is above the plate. Once I had the remaining 5% I glued it on the partially done print and it worked like a charm.

I had many false start with the first layer curling and warping. Many of these were probably due to slightly off bed level and possibly due to ambient temperature and the print temperature. Most of my prints were at 208 C hotend and 60 C for the bed. For bed adhesion I initially used glue stick but it was extremely hard to remove the print. Had to use a paper cutter blade and wedge it between the bed and print to get it off. Not fun. I switched back to hairspray. I print on glass bed.

Since I was having too many issues with the first layer I updated to the latest version of Marlin to get support for baby stepping / live z adjust / which allows to send a gcode (M290) mid print to adjust the z height. With lots of patience and retries it all worked out.


Hmm, not sure why you ere getting creases in your velvet. I made several slits, each about 1/2 inch apart all around the outside of the floor panel to prevent getting creases or wrinkles and it worked great. Several dabs of hot glue on the back side of the floor panel holds the velvet very good. With just enough gap between the floor panel and box to allow for the velvet thickness and then a snug fit to push the floor down into the box. So snug that glue on the floor is not needed to hold the panel in place. Glad you got creative enough to figure out what worked best for you. That's what it's all about : )

I bought velvet sheets that are peel n stick which works perfect, Amazon 20 pcs /$11. I fixed my issue with curling by getting a decent glass bed with a coating on it (Amazon $25) and always use a brim now for all prints and rafts when using supports on tall prints. My 2 cents.

Wow! I'm pretty impressed!

I made one using Silk Silver and Black.

I noticed the interior of your box looks like an ivory color. Did you paint this, or print an insert in this color. Gives the box a real professional look.

Hi, Actually you are seeing the raw wood color of the hatchbox wood. The whole box was this color before I stained the outside. That's why the divider is the same color. Just printed in wood with no processing.

I figured out that I needed to lower my temp and take the z-hop off that was leaving little piles all over. Almost had a nice print until the extruder clogged. Thanks for help

Printing on a 10s wood PLA, 40mm/sec, extra fine for layer height, z-hop when retracting, and ironing. Extrusion temp 210c
Any idea what I can do to clean this up?

Keep it and use a dremel tool to clean it up, that is what I would do.

You could lower your temp to 200c and possibly increase retraction if you are not already at the upper limits. And even then you will have some minor stringing on that portion of the model. I had minor stringing and used a torch lighter to quickly clean up the insert pieces that some stringing.

Nice gift box! I'm printing it now and it appears to be printing excellent. Sliced w/ Prusa Edition Slic3r and printing on my Lulzbot TAZ 6.

I'm actually quite surprised at how well the roses are printing. What CAD program did you use to design the roses and how did you make them look so realistic?

Hello, once again this is a remix. I did not create the box or lid. Only the 4 additional pieces. On a side note, I too used Slic3r PE and did the whole thing at .20 and even the roses came out excellent. It seems some have issues with the roses and end up printing them at .10 but they came out great for me. I suppose if you were to scale this down quite a bit then .10 would be a better option.

is it possible to get files to alter. I'd love to seperate flowers and Leaves to make it MM.

You should ask the original creator of the box. This is merely a remix. His page is here and is referenced in the description.

jewelry box rose
by buho29

I could not get the lid insert right to print on my 3D printer. The message kept saying "date transfer failure". "the model has empty layers". Any Ideas?

Maybe you just have a corrupt file. Try and download it again and verify its good with something like Windows 3D builder.

Thanks for listing your finishing techniques! Beautiful!

wow wish I saw this a few weeks ago - there is always next year - beautiful!

Great Job on adding the dividers. I made Buho29 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746313 jewelry box and now I can add dividers to it thanks.

jewelry box rose
by buho29

This is a super impressive example of woodfill filament in action! So cool!

Indeed, from the photos I would totally believe this to be carved from real wood.

buho29's prints in wood are super too! I just happened to find your remix first but obviously kudos their way too!

This box is absolutely gorgeous! Thank you very much for sharing it!

I am printing with an Ender 3. I printed at 50% and decided not to print the 'floor' piece or the dividers.

The left insert printed well, the right insert did not. The flower buds are trash, at this size, this printer, this filament and these settings.

Since it appears to be a perfect teardrop, I might try printing just the right insert, again, at full size. If that comes out well I MIGHT try printing the entire box, again, but that will be an awful lot of plastic/printing!

Again, even though mine failed, this is a GORGEOUS box.

The original design appears to have a plain (non flowery) insert, in addition to the one featured here. It may be better to print the plain one. Or use it to create your own personal design.

Please keep in mind this is a Remix, as stated on the left side of the details page that give the link to the original. I point that out to you because you stated you are not printing the floor panel or dividers. So in that case you might as well print the original as he has 2 sizes for download and I used one optimized size and created the floor panel and dividers for it. I'm glad you like it.

Printing this now with wood PLA. Really happy with the results. Will print the inserts for the lit in white PLA - tried with wood, but the right hand side one didn't come out well at all (might be my settings). Not a problem, as I think the white inserts will provide a nice contrast after I stain the rest of it. I also reduced to 75% which, I think, is a nice size.

This design is awesome! I'm printing it right now on a CR-10(s). So far so good, It prints beautifully! Thank you so much! One question though, when printing the lid frame, did you use supports for the inside groove? Or did you just let printer do bridging? I'm still fairly new, I've had my printer for almost a year and still am learning every time I print. Thank so much again!

Hello, No supports are needed with this print and technically the groove isn't really bridging because of the shape. Just print with no support and you'll be a happy camper!

This is an absolute fantastic design. I am printing this for my wife and she is over the moon with it. It is coming out great. The top is completed and stained, and the bottom just got printed. I'll post this as a make when complete. It is the best looking piece to come off my printer in 2 years ( I only have been doing this for 2 years).

Do you have the right and left panels blank?

No, but the original creator of the model has a blank panel. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746313

jewelry box rose
by buho29
Comments deleted.

I am very impressed with this design. I printed the box portion of this last night and it looks great. I will be printing the remainder tonight.

This is a great piece of work, fantastic job and I thank you for sharing with us all to enjoy, much appreciated. Mark

Really nice model, thanks for sharing! - Printing one now, will upload a picture when done.

Additionally you did a great job on the staining.

Thanks, look forward to seeing yours!

These are gorgeous! Thank you for sharing! How did you do the engraving for your mom and your aunt? Also, what filament did you use? That looks amazingly like real wood!

Hello, first Thank you for the compliment. The filament is real wood, its Hatchbox Wood and is in the description. Hatchbox has around 20% wood content I believe. Now for the placard piece, you can use something as simple as tinkercad.com or windows builder to add your lettering. You could make it raised letter or remove the letters. In my case, I printed the placard at 1mm thick starting the print in white PLA for 2 layers or .40 thick, then did a color change back to wood for the remaining 3 layers or .60 thick and then stained the top. I just used tinkercad to remove the letters from the top 3 layers first. Then when I printed with color change it left the letters with a white backround. I did it this way because it was last minute and I didn't have time for more stain. The way I imagined it best would have been to stain the bottom of the lid area very dark first and then remove the letters out of the placard completely and then stain the placard a light red/brown and that should give it more of a engraved wood look. But because of my short time to get these mailed I had to go with the white lettering choice. Hope this helps.