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Prusa i3 - Raspberry PI case - Extrusion Mount below Einsy

by flue Dec 16, 2018
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A solution for external power supply (micro usb psu) would be great!
You could turn the case on its head and the GPIO would be eliminated.
USB ports of course point to the back.

Works great so far, just to note that on my MK3S there was a small sticker blocking "TX1" port on the Einsy, I removed it and it's all good.

Hello, thanks for this but I checked the diagram and couldn’t understand which cable goes where.Do you have a real picture installed?also I have some female,male jumpers but they are different color wires.Is that matter?

Check the diagram and connect the corresponding colors. It should be clear enough.

Would be nice to see a version with a FAN

For what purpose would you need a fan on the Pi?

Newer Pi3+ generate more heat, plus enclosure plus heat chamber plus summer... You see the point

Thank you.
This works perfect with my Logitech 270 camera and an USB-Light (1Watt).
I redesigned your case without the 3030 alu-profil holder and use printed 3M T-Nuts.

Thanks for your feedback. I've also added a version without extrusion.

This wiring setup was working like a champ the past few days but I disconnected the Pi-end wires and later reconnected them but accidentally turned the printer on with the Pi-end wires connected starting from pin 2 instead of pin 4, i.e. all wires shifted left one pin. After correcting the wiring, OctoPrint is very slow and doesn't fully load and within five minutes disappears from the network. When powered via mini usb with no pins connected Octoprint runs fine and snappy. When powered via mini usb and the non-power pins (8,10,15,16) connected, the same behavior is observed as when powered by the printer, slow interface and drops off the network.

Any idea what's going on?

I'm not sure if you broke the PI. As far i know the pins are not protected.
Maybe you can check if another PI board with the same SD card and cabling has the same problem?

Same problem with another Pi. Almost like the Pi board isn't getting enough power, although red light is on on the Pi board and green light flashes every so often. That must mean the printer board is damaged since Octoprint shows up fine with usb power.

What do you recommend for infill %? Should I just let Slic3r auto-generate supports?

Default infill is fine. Support from buildplate is needed for the extrusion overhang.

I printed it & didn't tell it to put in supports. Hairy ugly mess on the overhang. I was able to trim the hairs off the other half & salvage it. Will reprint this half with proper support. Pictures are actually after a fair bit of futile cleanup already.

Of course you cannot print in mid air

No doubt. I just didn't think about it. Still somewhat new to 3d printing & few if any I have printed so far needed support & Slic3r doesn't add support by default. New one with proper support is printing now.

Nice, post some pictures if it is finished!

Nice! Works really well. The opening for the SD Card is a bit tight on my print but I don't plan to remove it (64GB). Power seems fine from from the Einsy for a both a Pi3B+ and a Pi Cam V2.

Thanks for your feedback. Good to hear it also works fine with the Pi Cam!

Should a USB webcam draw low enough power to work with Einsy power?

My Pi0 was massivly unstable when I ran it with a Pi camera with 2 IR LEDs on it. I just unpluged the camera & it got stable. Moving to a Pi3 for the extra processing power to do video as the Pi0 is pretty tapped out. I didn't bother troubleshooting further as the Pi0 was already marginal to do video. The extra 3 cores on a Pi3 should be plenty. Put a 24v to 5v regulator in similar to https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/others-archive--f66/connecting-raspberry-pi-3-to-einsy-headers-t12394-s20.html#p118324 so I wouldn't run into any more power issues.

I use an usb webcam myself. It works great!

Sweet. Can't wait to try this.

How do you mount this on the frame? Do you need to remove the Y-axis rear plate? I hope not, since the Y-axis belt tension I perfect now.

Kinda late on this, but you don't need to remove the Y axis if you take the model and remove the extrusion mount leaving only the screw holes. You can use drop-in t-nuts on these, hell you can probably even use printed T-nuts since it won't support practically any weight.

Yes, you have to remove the rear plate. You can do this without removing the belt.
Just remove the screws from the plastic part where the stepper motor is mounted to the plate. After this, remove the rear plate. You can reassemble everything. Your belt tension will be in tact.